C3-Jeep Steering Gear Conversion

[Twin_Turbo]

I wouldn't use aluminum for the plates, best to stick with steel for them.

I think Yellow73SB had a source to get them made.

Oh yeah, forgot you actually thread into them, they're not just spacers. My bad

 

[00fxd]

Yeah a few us had ballistic fab make them

Hows your installation coming? :idea:
Frank

 

[Yellow73SB]

I haven't even taken the pitman arm of the box yet

It will be awhile until I do it, it doesn't seem like a hard swap though. I need to get my truck running and driving first. Plus my uncles car is on the lift right now. So probably in 1-2 months I'll do it.

 

[Yellow73SB]

I'm getting started tomorrow

The car lift should be open after the next auto-x so I can do the install

I'm going to spot face the box and tap the adapters tomorrow at the machine shop

I think I'll order the steering arm from speedway

Also how thick should I make the adapters?

 

[Gordonm]

If anyone is looking for a good Jeep box I have one. I was going to do this swap and got a box off a 6000 mile 02 or 04. I got a good deal on a Steeroids system so I went that way. I can post a picture if needed.

 

[Twin_Turbo]

Better hang onto it until you have the steeroids installed so you can always go back to the jeep box. The roids is junk.

 

[mrvette]

Better hang onto it until you have the steeroids installed so you can always go back to the jeep box. The roids is junk.

YEH, but all needs do is change a couple things and it's fine...no biggie...assuming the input linkage smooths out with the adjustment there, and don't bind...

:rain:

 

[Twin_Turbo]

if you ask me, they should have called it hemorrhoids because that's what it is, a bloody paint in the ass

 

[mrvette]

if you ask me, they should have called it hemorrhoids because that's what it is, a bloody paint in the ass

thing that is so funny is my system works fine, and so they try telling me it won't fit on a bolt on basis, on account of two joints being used instead of 3, and that is ******** right off the bat....I can see header problems, and pan problems but that's the ONLY concession I would put to my install fitting any other shark....easy bolt in otherwise....

and stock tie rod ends which I think are far superior to that other crap...:shocking:

 

[wirenut]

Gordonm,
What do you want for your box?

 

[Twin_Turbo]

Yes, if you remove someone's quote, don't forget to remove the nested starting tag. Fixed now.

 

[1mpalass]

Anyone have the Borgeson part number for the u-joint?

I've seen a couple of part numbers for the Borgeson U-joint but I'm not sure which one is correct. To my understanding, the Vette has a 1 inch 48 spline shaft and the Jeep box is suppose to have an 18mm double D input size, which would be designated by 8DDx148. The part number I've seen is Jegs 153-114349, but this corresponds to a 3/4" input size, not the 18mm of the Jeep (I think the stock Vette box input is a 3/4DD). Can anyone confirm which Borgeson joint attaches a Vette to the Jeep box? Part numbers?

 

[BBShark]

My Jeep box measures 16mm across the flats. 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee.

 

[Kid Vette]

Here's the dimensions of the Jeep input shaft. Note that they are not symetrical. You'll want the 16mm Borguson joint and then tighten the set screw against the flat with the 7.36/7.46 dimension going to it.

 

[Kid Vette]

Here's the dimensions of the Jeep input shaft. Note that they are not symetrical. You'll want the 16mm Borguson joint and then tighten the set screw against the flat with the 7.36/7.46 dimension going to it.

D'oh!! I just discovered some of the above information is bogus. I posted from work off my memory which is obviously faulty.

I just checked the input shaft out of a Jeep box I have here. The OD is .73" and the distance across the flats is .61". According to the Borgeson catalog that is an 18mm DD or their designation "8DD". Sorry for the confusion. The drawing is correct.

Just call me "The Durango Kid" :gurney:

 

[1mpalass]

Does anyone have the part number for this 8DDx148 Borgeson u-joint? I may just call Summit and see if they have such a piece, but it is always better to know what you're looking for.

 

[Kid Vette]

I don't think that is a catalog item for Borgeson. However their catalog says "Many other sizes are available and in stock". I would give them a call.

 

[mrvette]

Here's the dimensions of the Jeep input shaft. Note that they are not symetrical. You'll want the 16mm Borguson joint and then tighten the set screw against the flat with the 7.36/7.46 dimension going to it.

D'oh!! I just discovered some of the above information is bogus. I posted from work off my memory which is obviously faulty.

I just checked the input shaft out of a Jeep box I have here. The OD is .73" and the distance across the flats is .61". According to the Borgeson catalog that is an 18mm DD or their designation "8DD". Sorry for the confusion. The drawing is correct.

Just call me "The Durango Kid" :gurney:

HEHE>...we can have a new phrase for it....doin' a Durango....prrtt::shocking::hunter:

 

[40zr1]

Jeep box

Boy, how did I miss this thread!!! But, better late than never! Couple of questions, What year Jeep steering box was used and is it the small jeep or the SUV type jeep? And is anyone getting any more of the spacer brackets made? If not, what is the name of the shop that cut the brackets? Thanks in advance! CJ

 

[1mpalass]

I may be off a year or so, but I think you need the box from a 1999-2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee, not a regular Cherokee. I'm guessing all the Grand Cherokees were 4wd. Anyone with clarification, please chime in.

 

[Yellow73SB]

http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf_id=54158&dept_id=1838

 

[1mpalass]

Borgeson U-Joint

I ordered a stainless U-joint from Borgeson through Summit racing. I think the price was about $88. I was given a part number of 114350. "11" stands for stainless steel (10 being the designation for regular steel). "43" represents the 48 spline Vette steering shaft. "50" represents 8DD, for the 18mm double-D of the Jeep box. At least this is what the Summit parts guy explained to me. It sounded like he had someone in the office on the phone with Borgeson as they created this part number, as it is not a standard offering. I hope it fits, as they said it would be shipped at the end of the month.

 

[chris75stingray]

http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf_id=54158&dept_id=1838

that will save me from buying a new nonpower steering relay rod. i've heard of people filling the stock control valve with washers or something like that but this is a much better piece.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1973-1977-GM-INTERMEDIATE-PITMAN-ARM,7393.html

is this the pitman arm that is needed to go from the jeep box to the corvette relay rod? it doesn't say if it's for power steering or not

 

[BBShark]

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1973-1977-GM-INTERMEDIATE-PITMAN-ARM,7393.html

is this the pitman arm that is needed to go from the jeep box to the corvette relay rod? it doesn't say if it's for power steering or not

From the Speedway specs:

5.5" center of eye to center of eye This is the the correct distance for the pitman you need
Splines are 1.190" outside diameter This is the correct OD for a power steering spline
Bottom of tapered hole is 0.675" This is correct
Top of tapered hole is .580" This is correct
1.063" drop I don't know how this is measured so I can't say if it is correct or not. If this is a GM7814221 pitman arm, it will work

 

[badbirdcage]

OK. I've been following this very interesting thread. I am impressed with the engineering abilities of several of the posters and enjoy the CAD drawings. (at least I think they are CAD drawings)

So I picked up my car last night (C-2) from the alignment shop after installing the Jeep P/S box and VBP offset upper control arms.

Like many of you say you are going to do I was originally going to piece together a conversion kit for the Jeep steering mod. I spoke with a friend who did this conversion on his car over 15 years ago and he recommended I go with Corvette Steering for the following reasons.

Tom has already done the engineering for you. He supplies a new Jeep P/S box, he has already machined it to bolt directly onto your chassis, he supplies the correct Borgeson u-joint to connect the Jeep box to your steering column, he supplies the hoses, the bolts, the spacers and you retain your stock Corvette pitman arm. That's right; you retain your original pitman arm instead of chasing a Chevelle or other pitman arm.

In my case I replaced the P/S center link with a manual center link to gain the larger, stronger joint that bolts to the original Corvette pitman arm.

Since I am running a hydro-boost brake booster I had to do some fabrication and plumbing for the hose setup. I saved a few bucks with Tom that way as he kept the hoses and gave me a credit for them. Tom is a pleasure to deal with. When you consider price you need to remember that he has done all the engineering for you, he supplies a complete kit to you and is just a phone call away if and when you need assistance while installing his setup.

OR you can chase the junk yards and pay for a Jeep box that might or might not be in good condition, pay to have it machined to properly fit the bolt pattern on your chassis, figure out your spacers and bolts, figure out what joint you need, figure out your hoses, pitman arm, etc. Your money, your call.

I have to say that my car now drives like a more modern vehicle. It is more stable at speed (that has to do with the new caster/camber settings on the alignment, not the steering box swap) and the steering ratio is much faster than the original Corvette factory P/S setup.

Rich

 

[Yellow73SB]

I'll have about 200 bucks in mine if I buy that center link from ecklers

A little extra effort is worth 475 dollars to me

 

[badbirdcage]

Like I said; your money, your call. Good luck with it and I hope you are as happy with the final result as I am.

Rich

 

[mrvette]

I have to say that my car now drives like a more modern vehicle. It is more stable at speed (that has to do with the new caster/camber settings on the alignment, not the steering box swap) and the steering ratio is much faster than the original Corvette factory P/S setup.

Rich

Gotta disagree with your comment above....I think eliminating that olde tyme 50's tech truck steering control valve is worth as much as a total rebuild on the stock front end, especially with MODERN TIRES/wheels....

MY fresh '72 was just OK, with stock rims/radial tires....BUT when going to the modern rims/tires...just 255/50/17 the steering was all over the joint....

not the box either, the control valve was only thing left....

put a rack in, cured the problem....IMO...case closed....

 

[badbirdcage]

I have to say that my car now drives like a more modern vehicle. It is more stable at speed (that has to do with the new caster/camber settings on the alignment, not the steering box swap) and the steering ratio is much faster than the original Corvette factory P/S setup.

Rich

Gotta disagree with your comment above....I think eliminating that olde tyme 50's tech truck steering control valve is worth as much as a total rebuild on the stock front end, especially with MODERN TIRES/wheels....

MY fresh '72 was just OK, with stock rims/radial tires....BUT when going to the modern rims/tires...just 255/50/17 the steering was all over the joint....

not the box either, the control valve was only thing left....

put a rack in, cured the problem....IMO...case closed....

You may disagree if you want. I will not dismiss your experience. It obviously works for you. In my case I am running basically stock size (205/75-15) tires on the car (63). Everything is new up front.

I have driven only one C-2 with a rack installed (65 with Steeroids conversion). I didn't drive it a long distance but I was not comfortable with the feel of the steering or the way the front end reacted to movement of the steering wheel while I was driving it. The owner said he had to adapt to the system and was used to it. He cautioned me that it might feel "twitchy". This car was running larger wheels and tires than I do (his were off a C-3)

I previously owned a 78 with stock P/S and had the car for nine years while putting about 45,000 miles on it. I didn't experience any problems with the front end on the car and it drove nicely (I rebuilt the complete suspension upon acquisition of the car). Perhaps the wider wheel/tire combination on the C-3 works better with a stock GM setup.

Rich

 

[mrvette]

Well you see, that's the whole thing, you had 15" and 60 series tires...

I have 17x9.5 rims off C4 all the way around 275in rear 255 in front....

makes one hell of a difference.......I can only guess is they were 18+.....

:stirpot: