Plastic Fantastic 2

[SuperBuickGuy]

other then put the dash back in (4 screws) I have nothing really to do to be ready to run. I can even leave the rear in it... I won't because it's so simple to change - but that was kind of the deciding factor. If I can, why not?

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Going into cold storage, so need to finish up some things
yeah, my favorite, wiring

better

it all works right... winning

so this is going to my new shop in Idaho - so it goes with all its parts. the list of to do: put the 3.42 diff in, swap valve springs, finish the light change, figure out the diffuser for high speed in October.... what I do I need to do before spring autox? none of it - so it gets to sit while I get more pressing things done related to the move

but for now, it sits on a charger while I get more stuff moved

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I know I've been MIA for a minute. We're moving to Sandpoint Idaho. My fantastic shop... selling... but my new fantastic shop will probably break ground this summer. I hope to run Optima at Thunderhill in October... we will see

my 'new' shop... a garage condo. It will be where I do lift work and 4x4 work. My plan is work on the Buick (sorry, not the 50 yet) in my hobby time. Blazer is nearing completion but I haven't yet started on the camper for it. That's coming soon too... along with building a 60x60x25 2 story shop and a 3200 square foot house... it'll be cool when it's done and I'm really where I've always wanted to be.

 

[BBShark]

Moving, building a shop, building a house, building a couple of vehicles,.... You know how to keep yourself busy!

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Moving, building a shop, building a house, building a couple of vehicles,.... You know how to keep yourself busy!

Some suffer from ADD, I love every living minute of it....

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

back to this, first an oil change
I bought this filter last year at SEMA, finally getting around to doing the oil change to do it

next up, change the rear diff back to the original... I literally lost 10 mph off my top speed with the higher ratio (3.42 stock v. 3.91 currently)

 

[BBShark]

What is the filter?

 

[rtj]

You’ve probably seen these, I grabbed a photo because it looked homemade, and it had a simple design. But, looks like it may be a professionally manufactured one.

On another note, the admin should move the Projects back to the top of the page in my opinion.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

You’ve probably seen these, I grabbed a photo because it looked homemade, and it had a simple design. But, looks like it may be a professionally manufactured one. View attachment 57455

On another note, the admin should move the Projects back to the top of the page in my opinion.

you'd fall over at what those sell for.... think "more than 40k before options"

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

What is the filter?

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Now that I've driven the car enough to get it fully warm - my report on the filter is it is excellent. Before my oil pressure would get down to 12 psi when fully hot, now, 33 lbs.

 

[phantomjock]

Rule of Thumb - 10#psi per 1000 RPM?
Only problem with that "rule" is there is no heat/viscosity factor included.

May have to pick one up for the other vehicles. Thanks for the report.

Cheers - Jim

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Rule of Thumb - 10#psi per 1000 RPM?
Only problem with that "rule" is there is no heat/viscosity factor included.

May have to pick one up for the other vehicles. Thanks for the report.

Cheers - Jim

with the solid roller cam, single weights are required - I'm running 30w valvoline racing but could move up to 40w if I really needed more

 

[bobs77vet]

I know I've been MIA for a minute. We're moving to Sandpoint Idaho. My fantastic shop... selling... but my new fantastic shop will probably break ground this summer. I hope to run Optima at Thunderhill in October... we will see

my 'new' shop... a garage condo. It will be where I do lift work and 4x4 work. My plan is work on the Buick (sorry, not the 50 yet) in my hobby time. Blazer is nearing completion but I haven't yet started on the camper for it. That's coming soon too... along with building a 60x60x25 2 story shop and a 3200 square foot house... it'll be cool when it's done and I'm really where I've always wanted to be.

Holy cow I fall a asleep for a couple of months and you are moving again ....i still want to see the lead sled!!!!!

hope all is going well, bob

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Holy cow I fall a asleep for a couple of months and you are moving again ....i still want to see the lead sled!!!!!

hope all is going well, bob

no, you don't.... it's being seasoned....

 

[ciro racing]

Hope the wing is still working out for you!

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

well, it's back out of the trailer. I have 3 weeks to get it ready for race season. The only big issue is it doesn't like going into reverse... could (likely) be simple... but we'll see
The list:
1) fix headlights
2) fix reverse
3) change rear differential
4) put a defuser under the gas tank

if I have time, I'm going to make the front spoiler out of carbon fiber....

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Hope the wing is still working out for you!

no high speed impacts with jersey barriers - so presume 'yes'

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

time to figure out why the lights don't work....

still have no idea why one goes up and the other drops... more playing, later.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

So I need to spend some quality time figuring out why....

but then, I got fully distracted. I need to brace the rear corners because it's cracking the paint - but while I was under there, I noticed spirals of aluminum
end of bolt

other side

basically I think it's toeing out under hard acceleration... but why? I guess this is 1st world problems because 550 hp to the wheels and that kind of sticky tire would create a lot of forward motivation.... I will turn the bolt around but I need to resolve this and I'm not sure what about the Camaro rear suspension might be suspect....

suggestions would be welcome.

 

[GIGITTY]

Looks like it may be contacting the wheel under heavy suspension compression. It also looks like you could just put in a little shorter bolt and be clear of it. That just what I see from the photo, may be worth taking the Coil over out and articulating the suspension to check.

 

[rtj]

That lower suspension arm looks like a U cross section. Boxing it with plate in a couple of places would increase the torsional stiffness. Also check all the bushings.

After discovering a fuel leak and slightly loose idler on my first start video, I’m a believer in video recording. Maybe strap a camera or two under there and go for a drive.

Either way, good luck finding the cause.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

That lower suspension arm looks like a U cross section. Boxing it with plate in a couple of places would increase the torsional stiffness. Also check all the bushings.

After discovering a fuel leak and slightly loose idler on my first start video, I’m a believer in video recording. Maybe strap a camera or two under there and go for a drive.

Either way, good luck finding the cause.

as we're in the midst of moving - I have no idea where my gopro went, but once I find it or something similar.... I will nut and bolt it, this was happenstance that I found it (fortunate happenstance) ....

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

since I had the epoxy out, I did a fix on the corners... they crack on the outside, inside it looks fine but this should stiffen up the joint

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I have trouble with axle tamping. In one of my google searches I came across a statement by g-force that the thick axle goes on the driver's side. According to them, the tamping is cause by the tire loading and unloading due to the twisting of the axle shaft... sure enough, I've got the thick axle on the passenger side.... so before i swap... do you agree or disagree that could be the issue?

it's on the passenger side because I figured that was the side that got the hardest task... (I also have to take the rear apart to put the 3.42 differential in place)

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

so I phoned a friend who is a GM tech.... the larger shaft goes on the driver's side. What happens is the shaft twists under hard acceleration, then snaps back and you get axle tramping.... learnin'

time to take it all apart. It's strange when you realize that you'll actually make money on the 3rd member if you sell it because you bought the parts before the Covid price spikes.

but first.... need to clarify for the trolls....

I still don't get why the wheel is moving enough to interfere with the bolt...

I cleaned the threads off before I drove the car last week - drove it gently even...

as I'm going to a car show on the 16th - I needed to clean this

drained the oil.... probably should have done that sooner - or at least once after the new gears... ah well

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

the right way to fix the rubbing issue

and I found the problem

the poly bushing failed... the bolt just wobbles in the hole... so now to figure out how to make the adjust shafts out of johnny joints... I wasn't thrilled with the non-lube simple heim joint on the frame side, but apparently this moves in 2 different planes - so it's going to wear (and do so quickly). I have to fix this by the 16th but I'm going to replace these with something better -even if I have to build it.
and ended my evening with a pleasant attempt to get the driver's side half shaft out...

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

time to disassemble and replace parts I didn't intend to replace
first - same length different girth. I thought it went on the passenger side,nope

and the culprit for the rubbing - I hate it when the voice in my head says "that won't work" but I silence it with "they know what they're doing" they don't. you can see how less than 1000 miles hollowed out the bushing - poly bushings work great when they only twist in one direction - make it move in two directions and it will quickly wear out, especially when you use the hardest poly product....

and life wouldn't be the joy it is without a shaft getting stuck

the hole in my car

waiting on new 1/2 shafts and seals - might put it in anyway (parts are supposed to be here Tuesday)

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

tonight.... started reassembly
it's just awkward enough that I had to get clever putting it back in

but it's now in

I still don't know how to get the other half shaft out - I suppose pounding will come into play soon... but right now I don't need to so I'll let it percolate in the background and maybe an epiphany will strike (or more likely, I'll come across someone else's solution). I'd really rather not destroy the housing or the carrier

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Oh the wonderful world of 'quick' fixes
the axles arrived today - even quality brand... but they're wrong

remember the bit before about the different diameter of the axle shafts? these are all the same size...
they are also 1" different side to side (which probably explains the problem with the snap ring - it was too short so kept trying to pull out under load.... sigh -
in place

shiny and temporary

but at least the seals were correct

and the stop.... the snap ring isn't engaging on the old shaft/rear diff

here's the thing.... g-force makes better axles, at an eye-watering 2k for a set... but worse, 5 week lead time.