Bloverlanding in a Blazer

first order of business was pressure wash in a windstorm - I'd like you to note that left gate looks functional.... it won't at the end of this post
but it's being pressure washed because I am not replacing the core support for 2, 2x4" rusted out pieces of metal. SEMA quality? no. Care? no.
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I ordered 12x1.0mm to - 4 an, the receipt even says so... the only bright side here
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is that I can weld
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and works
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then onto door hinges... should be simple, right?
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no but I won....
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for a diesel, they said... uh, no... again, some modification will be required
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evening was going bad enough that I figured I might as well swap pedals
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you know, the engineer who decided to bolt these things in two directions - I don't care if he saved Mother Theresa, that bastard will burn in hell longer then the devil
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just have to take out a few parts
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this is pedals mostly out
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didn't get an out picture because of what came next
about 5 minutes after this picture the gate blew open (broke the hydraulics) and mini-terrorist went off to visit the horses.... of course, I didn't know any of this for about 30 minutes
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I was busy trying to remove the first part GM put into the truck after the keel was laid.
 
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I think you're right about the pedals, it looks like you have the just about strip everything off the firewall in any GM car just to get the assembly out. Sailor language required for the job!
 
there was some judicious cutting done... adapting the clutch to the 86 tree
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and more chopping
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clamping
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rewelded and now waiting for new bushings.... they're worn and it'll be a cold day in Hawaii before I pull this apart to fix it
on to the next bit... a brace
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this holds the master cylinder to the firewall
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and paint...
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sorry FGZ... there's little left of the 'other' brake tree... that said, I might have another... but... not quite sure where
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note to self - pull the master cylinder before trying to put the tree in...
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fun how the master cylinder just blends into the firewall..
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to make the old fit in the new - take the return spring bracket off
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then the part off the clutch arm
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the hard part - connecting the clutch master cylinder... many parts were reused
but the benefit is the clutch arm bolts on - thus if I don't like the action of the throwout - I can move its pivot point
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to remind - the problem - the throttle cable/cruise control solenoid occupy the same space as the dual thermostat crossover
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flipping it over solves several problems - but there are others... first of which the bleeder is now under the thermostat...
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plumbing this will be entertaining and I'm likely going to re-aim the inlet so that the throttle position sensor has room to rotate. In addition, there will be provisions for bleeder lines from the back of the head to the crossover (along with another bleed port).
despite my stupid camera not opening its lens... this is the dual thermostat crossover for a 6.5 - clever solution, actually, I'm going to make it even better but here is one of the ways to make a Detroit diesel survive.
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now the fast idle solenoid hits (and I'll truly need to figure that one out)
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getting close to a solution
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this gets the throttle cable to attach and leaves just figuring out the cruise control (which I'll probably just move up
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all clears so far
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nothing warms my heart more then household electrical wire ties.
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now the tree is back... in black
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and installed
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then time to remove the wiring nightmare....
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an overview is the prior owner added a bunch of extra grounds... and had bare wires dangling under the dash... oh Bubba - you obviously stopped with Corvettes and went to Blazers...
now let me whip out this big thing... and steal bolts off it
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the 6.5 crossover - will work fine but I'm going to add a flex joint in an attempt to save exhaust seals
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The steering column would be back in but I'm replacing some parts - and they haven't yet arrived (won't be here until next week)... if I remember, I'll show how one threads the cruise control wire back down the column... it's not fun. then convert it to manual
 
worked on 3 things tonight... throttle bracket, turbo oil return and coolant (which is related to the throttle bracket



I welded the wrong bung on the oil return... the right one
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all ready to go
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after moving the fuel bypass line... it works
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cut at 22.5 degrees
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reweld the piece back on
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not pretty but it will do
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installed.. we have clearance
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that looks like a fuel pump blanking plate, does it matter where you return the oil to in the sump?
as long as there is a way to the pan, it doesn't matter. For the 6.5 diesel, you could put a tap in the pan - but if it's already on, that makes a mess.... this you just weld the adapter to the plate, seal it and bolt it on.... very little problem or mess.
 
so it was finally time to get the shop more reasonably organized... and get the Suburban inside to work on it
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injection pump is bad - so going to use the one that came with the H1 motor
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so in the front shop, the Sledanette is gone and in its place work space and Paul's C3
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in real work, filling everything
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yes, I tied it up
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how to fill a transfer case - a hose adapter and drill bit
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I told myself there was no way my flexifunnel would reach down to fill the transmission
and yet it did
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and since I can't find the adapters - time to make something far more hokey
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back to the Suburban... need crows feet wrenches...
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believe it or not, these help me with the blazer too
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and now I realize I need to take another picture again... stupid camera...

onto something else
time to blow out some flanges so i can move the turbo
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there is a lot of grinding
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somewhere in this neighborhood
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ordered a 90* 2 1/2" schedule 40 stainless pipe
and that's it for tonight
 
In today's story, we're talking wind
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swinging or flapping dog doors blow open on our slightly-breezy 40 mph wind days... so now we have an electric door.... but what does this have to do with the Blazer?
I need to make this windmaker fit
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but first, 24v isn't going to do, so find a core that fits
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first with the CAD
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then positioning the turbo where it should fit
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to be honest, I don't know - this is the crankcast vent - and that hole to shoot the exhaust down looks very tight
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it does clear the hood
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schedule 40 stainless bend.
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so that's it for today, I also spent the day on my wife's JunK ... what did you get done today?
 
for today's fun... getting rubber covers on pedals
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easy, no?
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time to sand and paint... and no, this is NOT a SEMA build - this is a truck I'm going to drive the tires off
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a bit of paint
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and now for that great game of "where do I plug this together... it works in 3d because not only do you have to know where the plugs go but also how to route them.. otherwise the column won't fit
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more boring stuff....
this one doesn't work with the 6.2 manifold... at least not as it sits...
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hold that thought, though, need to get a few more things dialed in.. like the offset for the turbo
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and get the wiring routed to figure out how much stock I'm buying in DEI this time
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with my attention span we finish with connecting the power steering pump
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okay, play time is over... I was a bit annoyed to notice this, now... I have others so it would have been easy to fix... thankfully, it doesn't leak
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ebrake stuff from the swap meet... don't need it for this build but it is good backstock
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will probably only use the rod ends but traction kit paid less then one heim price for all of it
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I always buy sheet metal stuff, especially when it's $10 for the entire boxes
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and found rubbers for a suburban... so there are some extras... who cares, it's not like I won't own another
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and the piece de resistance (or something)
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I paid nearly swap meet retail for this, but it's for an 86 - so it has all the brackets and such. There will be substantial modifications and additions to it... but the basics are here
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more backstock.... wonder if I can get LMC to trade for the right ones?
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oil lines part 2
flare
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use liquid steel as a shim
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and it's now adapted.
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electric fuel pump install - apparently another 'fix'
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to install this
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for some reason this ragged edge was under the hose
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but with a trim and a flare - pump fits fine
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and clamped
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reconsidering my life choices... there's so many considerations doing this... it will fit, but wow what a pain.... and I love it.
of course, having to screw with heatshield doesn't make me happy
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form and fit
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but it's necessary
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time to figure out the upper coolant tube
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more bits
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there are issues because that is where I planned on running the pressurized line for the turbo
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it would be a bit annoying to have to remake the intake to a flat plate and round hole
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oh but wait, there's more
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what you can't see is the 2 1/2 hole that needs to be there for the turbo's exhaust
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you have no idea the temptation to put the turbo where the muffler would reside... it would solve some problems. That said, that means there would be another 2 1/2 tube that would need to fit up through that nonexistent hole

I wish I had a muffler shop tube bender....
 
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