Bloverlanding in a Blazer

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Would it be easier to leave the fenders off for a bit more time.... probably but more likely probably not
for example, routing lines is paramount now
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Inner fender the outer fender....
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maybe more importantly is finding that I need to do a bit of Neanderthal on the core support the bottom is about 1/2" off - and nothing is lining up
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however, and maybe more importantly, the batteries now have boxes to ride in
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and I can start considering airboxes
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i like it!!! nice job on the sway bar links.

what is the insulation you have next to the turbo pipe (on the body)

thanks bob
 
DEI exhaust wrap

time for turbo connections
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but wait, time to remove the scaling kitty.... FGZ, that package I'm sending to Hawaii may include this thing
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so that silver thing is to quiet turbo noises.... yeah, someone designed something to make turbos quieter....
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like that's going to stay
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ugly weld on metal of indeterminate origin
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time to void warranty
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then weld on elbow
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basic layout - but I need to extend a tube
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weld better because metal better
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I haven't decided whether I'm using this swap meet special... it's electronic...
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how is the DEI attached to the engine side of the well body panels? a landau adhesive?

could i use that as koosie cup for the SU float bowls?
 
how is the DEI attached to the engine side of the well body panels? a landau adhesive?

could i use that as koosie cup for the SU float bowls?
wire and screws. I've tried the glue method - it never works for long.

technically it's supposed to keep things from getting too hot through reflection, would it be an insulator? probably not.
 
So I bought some brown seats today - mind you, this is after the first rinse that took the dust off
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round 1 with grease removing soap
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round 2 and 3 with 409 and purple power
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hmmm... not brown
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they'll work
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nice, for the sedanettte (why keep me waiting???) you need those GM seats with the integral seat belts in them
 
the is the most important picture of today - clutch works great. had to pry on the throwout while my friend cracked the lines at the master.... not pretty but it works
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then I couldn't shut the truck off when I got it into the shop... had to pull the plug and disconnect the battery
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when I got this, the ignition switch was temperamental - thought it was the switch (and, for those playing along, I commented then that the switch looked new)... it was the barrel, not it works like new
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then onto the billions of things left to do... focus now is the electronics so I have gauges and start the floorboard fixes
and then I show you a picture of a speaker
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seemed like it was a good idea to replace them since I had to remove one to run the wires for the pillar gauges
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this is not helpful, he thinks he is, but he is most certainly not
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time to start thinking what this is going to need to be/do when its done. sealed for sure but do I just make the top removable? do I rely solely on the rubber boot to keep crap out? (no)
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but in that vein, I should consider what the center console will look like - stock? I'd rather be able to walk into the driver/passenger side but I'm not giving up storage....
 
tonight's update. Wiring.
spastic cat

I hate everyone.

in other news, because I'm not a YouTube sensation, I'm going to have gauges, a working speedo and insurance before it hits the street.... I know, I know, but I've never pretended to be an actor and I'm not going to start now
 
not a lot of time to work on this - had to put my lawn stabber together... but I digress
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to remind, a few holes in the floor
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thus I make bigger holes
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I honestly think someone went at the floor with a pickaxe... not sure why... but it is what it is
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also started putting a/c pieces on....
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I need to do some adjustment to the hard lines
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as far as I got
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because a day isn't complete without breathing grinding dust
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it's a lot of work to make an interior which floats
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this is a new one on me... look to the right of where I cut through the brace... it failed at the bend...
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in addition to this really weird rust/fail
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cut the rest of the problem area out
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mark out templates
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first test fit
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driver's side done
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onward
chop out a too large piece to start the process
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funny when you think you cut out a huge part then wonder if it was big enough when you offer it up
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and it's ugly
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now removed
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more rusty panel removing
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going to simply build a new section
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removed
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still pretty easy to build - though I'm now questioning the how it happened... whether it was from water thrown forward from the wheel or leaked down. I'm starting to think the leak down isn't possible due to how the toe kick is made...
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thinking I may just section in a few pieces... the only problem with this part is the skin, everything under it is fine - which means it's a lot less work to just do the top
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rather then section this in, just section in the upper part and do a bit of bodywork
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I have a 97 Tahoe with the usual (lots of) rust. I haven't checked the floor pans though.
 
I have a 94 with no rust in it... a lot of dents, but not rust


continuing... fitting
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welding
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painting
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next layer
weld on seat belt nut and backing plate
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after an hour of fitting
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and I got here... i had to rebend the rail so it fit...
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oh china
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weekly update
[VIDEO]

first, make it fit.... and I didn't cut enough - so there were some 'strength' patches
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a couple spots to weld left on this side
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trim a patch, install a patch
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and the only rust on the inside (that you could see) is now patched up
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well, patching on the inside is done... next up is clean the undercarriage and undercoat it then paint the frame..
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sealed and screwed in the gas filler cover
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probably didn't need to seal it because it's going to be sound deadened and then raptor lined (or Durabak).

and now it gets kind of put off to the side.
SEMA is in 2 weeks (unbelievable), and I will use it to get ideas on what the inside is going to look like. I also am probably (and internally fighting this) going to rewire the truck. It has substantial electrical gremlins and a lot of corrosion... not to mention I'm adding a lot of circuits for the camper portion of this build.... but that's another thing to review at SEMA.
in the meantime, I'm going to get as far as I can with the Corvette so I can get questions and such answered while there.
 
where am I? well
here
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hmmm, black widow
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the memory of one
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it's my shop, no freeloaders!
today's fun included finishing this
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now maybe they can do more then hikes
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moving on
first step place piece
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then read instructions
don't have a flat table but I do have shims
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and string
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then a few tacks
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then new test fit
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then remove some foam that got onto the parts from the packing
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I'm sure that's good for the atmosphere
then a bit of random assembly... still haven't decided what I'm doing with the center stripe here - I'm tempted to leave it white
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and paint wiper arms
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then put new motors on the regulators
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so I went here
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with this
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and had this result
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I don't get it.... the "X" instead of photo? usually IMG posts just fine but no longer?

and two burned wires.... so that leaves me 2 things to do. 1) get off my lazy tush and build the sidepipes, and 2) replace the valve springs because it fell on its face at 6200 rpm. Mind you, these are the highest quality comp cam springs available but, apparently, racing and time cause them to lose tension... welrd, no?
 
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I was able to edit the links using the the "insert picture". Imgur is "approved" here so I don't know what the problem is.
 
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