My '76 restoration (long post)

[denpo]

Ahoy everyone.
It's been a long time since last post. Project is still going on, just a little less free time. My new job is quiet demanding.

So, I can say that now I'm ready for gluing the front clip, finally.

Before that I had a couple of things to do, thing that would be much harder to do once the front clip back on:

-I sorted out all my engine bay harness, rearranged my 12v main line since the alternor is passenger side now.

-Soldered a relay on the ignition line, for the security system to come.

-Installed the heater resistor, yup I forgot that one when I built my ac delete box.

-Wrapped the header that is the closest to the aformentioned ac.

-Installed the steering wheel.

-I had a bunch of crack in the front clip bracket support to fix.

-While I was at it I started glassing my fender alarm keyhole.




Now the front clip is properly installed, with alignment holes drilled.






I got to admit this haven't been easy. Turned out the front clip was hanging 1" higher on the passenger side (measured a the wheel arches).
After measuring everything several time I came to the conclusion that the front clip outer and inner fender had been glued that way on the donor car.
A little cutting on the inner fender and the piece that join the radiator support to the bumper, and everything lined up, beauty file, front bracket, bumper assy, everything. Now I'm sure.

Taping the beauty line was very helpfull, as well as installing the rocket panels.

I my quest to make everything was right, I even reinstalled the whole hood lock mechanism.









The curves are lining up nicely, a good surprise for part coming for different donor cars. It was good to hear the sound of the hood popping open, sound from a distant memory when my corvette was in one piece.

So, here's a tip for you. Take it for what it's worth.
Let say you're aligning the hood locking pin, and of course you to it wrong at first. The hood get stuck for good.
If by chance your headlights and your radiator are not already installed, you can remove the hood by unbolting the base of the hood hinge, it's tight but doable. Then pry the hood open by the front, just enough to you can slip you arm in and unbolt the pin support.
You already know how I know don't you?

Maybe next weeked, If I can grab enough helping hands, I do the big jump. A question of days now.

I also started to install my remote door lock system
I forged a piece out of some stainless 3/16 rod.


No need to modify anything.




While kinda slow in the garage, I kept on working on related projects.
First one it the led taillight project.
I went a long road since the first homemade prototype. After searching for part I realized most of the material was already there, ready to be repurposed.

So I found those boards :


A bunch of dollar each, aluminum plate (for heat dissipation), and connexion for "1w" high power led. You can see I started to scratch the copper connexion.
The circuit is initially 15 led wired in serial.


I hacked it into three lines of 5 led in serial, one in the center for the turn light and the backup light. 2 on the outside for the break/running light combo.
I soldered led of the actual color (red, orange and white) since I'm gonna try to replicate the classic bubble cover in some sort of clear resin.
Went you do those don't forget to put a dab of thermal paste a the back of each leds.

Here is the buckets I just received (and after cleaning/modification)



It's still missing a seal where you can the bare metal on the picture, but it's gonna be all water proof eventually. The cable are outdoor led cable, cheap robust and very well sealed.
The heart (and the brain) of the taillight system will be contained in a external box. I'm still exploring possibilities with the box design, but it won't be very long.

The second side project is a very special one. A handfull of people know about it so far.
Like everyone doing his own restocustomod, you want the car to be yours.
So I decided I wanted my C3 to inspired by fighter jets, more specially the B2 bomber. Inspired is a big name, but I got a couple of mod ideas I hope turn reality.
Then I decided to give it a name, and it would be "DARK PATROL". May sound corny to some, I just love it. Choosed it 2 years ago, and haven't changed my mind since then.
Then, I decide to make a logo for my car. Took me a long time, more than 6 months. I made numerous prototype, none were convincing. Then, one night, I had an Epiphany, and it came very quickly to the current and terminal state :



It has everything, it has the plane, the power, the military touch.
the logo is reversible, so I can put it on the nose with the plane pointing forward, it still read DP.

I made a 3D rendition of it, adding some slopes and bevel, so if I make a chromed version if would catch light nicely.


And it happens I have a more-nerdy-than-me friend who built his own 3D printer, and offered to make me a print of my 3D object.







It's a rough prototype. It didn't came this way out of the printer, took a lot of sanding to get here and it's still far from perfect.
Since my object is really angular I think I'm gonna give CNC a try... if I can get reasonable pricing.
I just wanted to feel the object. It could make a good steering wheel emblem, it's about 2.5" wide.

That's all for today.
Happy thanksgiving.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

very cool.... with that printer buck, you could sand cast the piece; the only thing you need to do is make it 10% larger than what you want in the end.

 

[denpo]

Thanks Aaron.
Casting, well that would be awesome but a bit out of my league. I'm in a quiet dense residential area, I don't know how happy would be the neighborhood with a backyard forge.
Given the shape of the logo, CNC is probably the easiest way to get a neat metal part.
That being said, I migth use the buck for resin casting.

 

[MYBAD79]

good to see you're making progress, you want to be done by summer ? looks like all the major stuff is done..... you're going to use that 3M glue for the front clip?

 

[Fastphil]

Good to see an update, I completely forgot about it!

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Thanks Aaron.
Casting, well that would be awesome but a bit out of my league. I'm in a quiet dense residential area, I don't know how happy would be the neighborhood with a backyard forge.
Given the shape of the logo, CNC is probably the easiest way to get a neat metal part.
That being said, I migth use the buck for resin casting.

refactory is what you need... they look just like this


The bloodhound you see on top in the picture is what I'm going to cast in bronze.... when I get one or two free moments




I'll take a picture of it assembled.... but they're not that big - and they're a kick in the tush to fire for the first time (concrete glows red)

I'm casting a hood ornament for my wife... so I built one; wasn't terribly expensive; but if you're interested in building one - I could certainly point you in a more cost effective direction. Not quite to the point where I trust my casting for other people's bits, yet...

 

[denpo]

Dude I'd jump into that in a heartbeat. I've actually watch/read a lot about DIY casting.
But you probably don't realize how cramped it is here. I got a rear clip sitting in my tiny garden, bumper cover on my balcony and seat in my working room.
Every time I got to pick a part it's like a giant sliding tile game.
Until I can drive the car outside the garage I'll never know if my doors fully open, and that's with the car push all the way against the opposing wall.

One day I'll have a big backyard, and believe me, they'll be a lathe and a mig in the garage, and a anvil and a furnace in the garden. I can hear my significant other getting mad at my future me from now :hunter::loveletter::gurney:

Oh, and a 3D printer, those thing are so cool. My friend built his for 500$, there is even a set of the parts that can be made.... with a 3D printer. How cool is that?

 

[denpo]

good to see you're making progress, you want to be done by summer ? looks like all the major stuff is done..... you're going to use that 3M glue for the front clip?

Next summer... I'm strongly thinking about it but won't say it. Said it way too many time :tomato:

Yeah, I will use the 3M stuff, with my "made in swiss" gun.

 

[advancedtooling]

I just wanted to let you know cnc machining is what I do. Mostly molds and foundry tooling, some production but all custom work. What format is your file?

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Dude I'd jump into that in a heartbeat. I've actually watch/read a lot about DIY casting.


One day I'll have a big backyard, and believe me, they'll be a lathe and a mig in the garage, and a anvil and a furnace in the garden. I can hear my significant other getting mad at my future me from now :hunter::loveletter::gurney:

Oh, and a 3D printer, those thing are so cool. My friend built his for 500$, there is even a set of the parts that can be made.... with a 3D printer. How cool is that?

The trick is selling it to your SO, "honey, this is smaller and cheaper than that BBQ we've been looking at; and it does great hamburgers too" (your results may vary)

I am chuckling at your SO getting mad at you for your future you - that sounds pretty familiar to me :clobbered::clap:

That reminds me, I wonder if my wife's work has a 3D printer (she works for Sony as an engineer). :loveletter::thumbs:

 

[mrvette]

Dude I'd jump into that in a heartbeat. I've actually watch/read a lot about DIY casting.


One day I'll have a big backyard, and believe me, they'll be a lathe and a mig in the garage, and a anvil and a furnace in the garden. I can hear my significant other getting mad at my future me from now :hunter::loveletter::gurney:

Oh, and a 3D printer, those thing are so cool. My friend built his for 500$, there is even a set of the parts that can be made.... with a 3D printer. How cool is that?

The trick is selling it to your SO, "honey, this is smaller and cheaper than that BBQ we've been looking at; and it does great hamburgers too" (your results may vary)

I am chuckling at your SO getting mad at you for your future you - that sounds pretty familiar to me :clobbered::clap:

That reminds me, I wonder if my wife's work has a 3D printer (she works for Sony as an engineer). :loveletter::thumbs:

Hope they treat her far better than their dealers.....and field tech staff, if any.....

 

[denpo]

I just wanted to let you know cnc machining is what I do. Mostly molds and foundry tooling, some production but all custom work. What format is your file?

Right now I have it in max and stl file, and I can produce any format 3DSMax can produce. :loveletter::yahoo:

 

[advancedtooling]

Please send me your stl file so that I may look at it.
Thanks once more

 

[denpo]

deal of the month

I swear I tried to resist, that was too much of a good deal



400$ found on local classified.
The plastic edge cover is shot, the weatherstrip are a bit on the tired side, but the glass is 97% A-ok.
I guess I have to sew another set of T-Top bag.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

excellent score :thumbs:

 

[advancedtooling]

Dam, I've been looking for a deal like that now for 3 months and havent found any used less than new prices. I'd pay that price in a heartbeat.

 

[denpo]

Dam, I've been looking for a deal like that now for 3 months and havent found any used less than new prices. I'd pay that price in a heartbeat.

I've been waiting 2 years and half for this one.
I called the day the add was published... the guy kept on saying he might have put a higher price tag. lol
The ttop come from a '76 he just bought for 1k$.
Solid frame but rotten birdcage.
I'm confident once he sell the frame he'll make a profit out of it.

 

[denpo]

Ok, it just happened.
Almost a year of questioning, worrying and preparations and now it's done.
My joy is beyond words, it's been 2 hours, and I still have a large banana across my face and it's not coming down. :thankyou::huh:


I had my trusty friend Jeff, who was there for my initial body lift and engine swap, and Michel, my Corvette buddy.
Both were incredible, focus and precision, I couldn't dream better team.
I called more people, but turned out the 3 of us was all we needed. So thanks to Sly, Chris and Paul too, I know you guys did all you could to come.:friends:

We first practiced the dropping process, 4 or 5 times, until we were sure we could to a smooth drop, without any surface rubbing. I was controling the lift and made sure everything was aligned at the front, while Jeff and Michel were spreading apart the sides and drive the back to its final position. Sorry no pic, we were all way too busy.

Then we prepped one last time the matting surfaces, 80 grit and Acetone rub.



Then applied a first coating of glue on all the surfaces, pressed again the surface to ensure good contact.


Then a good bead on the car side of the contact surface






It shows I'm not alone this time: pic of me!!












Then we did the actual drop, aligned stuff, put the screw and some tension, et voila :






The Front is bolted to the bumper support, all is lining up nicely, we're done.
Now turning back.
Now I can prepare the engine for its revival.
The plan so far was from then to entirely rebuilt the car, bypass most of the bodywork and get a rolling machine to alignment shop, to make sure everything is straight before major glassing.
Now I'm not that sure anymore.
First the temperature outside is now diving below freezing point, snow can come tomorrow, trapping me in the garage for the months to come.
Secondly I'm concern about fiberglass contamination. Ffor now it's not as bad as my crappy camera wanna show, but taking it outside to a shop, it's asking for trouble, no?

Whatever, today to a day of victory, a major bump is cleared, progress should come fast now, and yes, still have the banana

 

[mrvette]

Awl Yawl up north got my sympathies for that cold weather.....

here I freezing my ass off with ~60f today here.....

:gurney:

 

[MYBAD79]

awesome job !!!!

I wouldn't worry too much about getting it outside to do the alignment... it's not like they dump a gallon of oil on the fiberglass, however..... I would make sure they know all the bolts are moving, tell them to stay away with that penetrating oil - other than that, if it gets wet, no big deal..... it will dry ....

 

[advancedtooling]

I'm atleast a year to your point therefore I AM JEALOUS.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

you really need to brush your teeth, a yellow banana :ill:

still, nice job :banghead:

 

[JeffP1167]

hey denpo are you looking for stock vette aluminum rims?

 

[denpo]

Thank you guys.:beer:

Now the 3M 3115 is rock hard, but I'll remove the screws in a couple of days.

What I could do so far :
-Vapor line reconnected to vapor canister
-Windshield washer pump connected (12v & water)
-Radiator back in, hose connected, coolant in.
-Fender lower splash shield bolted
-Fender A-Arm splash mat clipped in
-Front bumper side arm installed
-Hood realigned
-engine and headlight harness laid out and clipped in.

Now I can seriously start thinking about my body mods:

-Slopped rear window
-Hella headlight + modified popup mechanism
-Shaved front bumperette
-A Thin front aluminum bumper, embedded all along the upper lip of the bumper, integrating LED daylight and flasher.

 

[denpo]

hey denpo are you looking for stock vette aluminum rims?

Nope

I'm not even sure if I'm not building the car around those rims.
Turbine FTW!

 

[1Michel]

Ok, it just happened.
Almost a year of questioning, worrying and preparations and now it's done.
My joy is beyond words, it's been 2 hours, and I still have a large banana across my face and it's not coming down. :thankyou::huh:


I had my trusty friend Jeff, who was there for my initial body lift and engine swap, and Michel, my Corvette buddy.
Both were incredible, focus and precision, I couldn't dream better team.
I called more people, but turned out the 3 of us was all we needed. So thanks to Sly, Chris and Paul too, I know you guys did all you could to come.:friends:

We first practiced the dropping process, 4 or 5 times, until we were sure we could to a smooth drop, without any surface rubbing. I was controling the lift and made sure everything was aligned at the front, while Jeff and Michel were spreading apart the sides and drive the back to its final position. Sorry no pic, we were all way too busy.

Then we prepped one last time the matting surfaces, 80 grit and Acetone rub.



Then applied a first coating of glue on all the surfaces, pressed again the surface to ensure good contact.


Then a good bead on the car side of the contact surface






It shows I'm not alone this time: pic of me!!












Then we did the actual drop, aligned stuff, put the screw and some tension, et voila :






The Front is bolted to the bumper support, all is lining up nicely, we're done.
Now turning back.
Now I can prepare the engine for its revival.
The plan so far was from then to entirely rebuilt the car, bypass most of the bodywork and get a rolling machine to alignment shop, to make sure everything is straight before major glassing.
Now I'm not that sure anymore.
First the temperature outside is now diving below freezing point, snow can come tomorrow, trapping me in the garage for the months to come.
Secondly I'm concern about fiberglass contamination. Ffor now it's not as bad as my crappy camera wanna show, but taking it outside to a shop, it's asking for trouble, no?

Whatever, today to a day of victory, a major bump is cleared, progress should come fast now, and yes, still have the banana

That was a fun job.
Learned a lot out of it and as soon my birdcage is powder coated I'll put mine back together.

 

[Belgian1979vette]

Michel,

It looks as if you used the 3M 8115 on the fender outsides....I had a lot of problems with this product swelling after it has been applied with the heat from the sun etc.. Remove it before you paint. I

A warned man....

 

[denpo]

Michel,

It looks as if you used the 3M 8115 on the fender outsides....I had a lot of problems with this product swelling after it has been applied with the heat from the sun etc.. Remove it before you paint. I

A warned man....

What you see in the picture is the area where I removed the bonding strip, it's actually recessed, and fiberglass will come over that.
No 8115 will even make direct contact with the paint.

 

[Belgian1979vette]

Michel,

It looks as if you used the 3M 8115 on the fender outsides....I had a lot of problems with this product swelling after it has been applied with the heat from the sun etc.. Remove it before you paint. I

A warned man....

What you see in the picture is the area where I removed the bonding strip, it's actually recessed, and fiberglass will come over that.
No 8115 will even make direct contact with the paint.

Ok, then you're good.

 

[MYBAD79]

A very valuable warning, I remember the ugly pics you posted.... .... you must use body filler over this stuff, after seeing the pics I would not even spray primer directly over this stuff.
While it is the best adhesive I've ever used it is unfortunately not paintable.... although the manufacturer's info says that it is....