Plastic Fantastic 2
- Thread starter SuperBuickGuy
- Start date
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
onto more fixes.
Coolant, the outlet is higher then the top of the radiator - thus I need a bleeder at the highest point.
the problem
https://www.fox5atlanta.com/news/at...spected-child-molestation-case-at-summer-camp
remove
180 degree thermostat with hole drilled (which is what's keeping it from overheating since the other side is actually above the radiator.
hmmm... no picture of the fix... tomorrow
onto wires
I'm not a fan of the pertronix ceramic boots.... that said, if you buy enough of them, eventually they stay on
while I was at it, I did some nicer wire looms
then onto the task I'm not quite done with.... advance
I went from the heaviest springs (all in by 2800) to the lightest - which actually start the advance at 800 rpm and all in by 2500
next is a limiter - but I need to both back the timing way off (it's at 18 degrees now - should be around 10)... I also need to put an adjustable vacuum cannister on it - at idle it should be adding advance (save the starter and give advance when loping along at freeway speeds) but it most certainly won't because it takes 10 hg to move it and 15 to fully open it.edited If this motor makes 10 hg anywhere, I'd be surprised
more tomorrow.
in other news, I'm running straight 30w - and oil pressure isn't a problem... go figure
Coolant, the outlet is higher then the top of the radiator - thus I need a bleeder at the highest point.
the problem
https://www.fox5atlanta.com/news/at...spected-child-molestation-case-at-summer-camp
remove
180 degree thermostat with hole drilled (which is what's keeping it from overheating since the other side is actually above the radiator.
hmmm... no picture of the fix... tomorrow
onto wires
I'm not a fan of the pertronix ceramic boots.... that said, if you buy enough of them, eventually they stay on
while I was at it, I did some nicer wire looms
then onto the task I'm not quite done with.... advance
I went from the heaviest springs (all in by 2800) to the lightest - which actually start the advance at 800 rpm and all in by 2500
next is a limiter - but I need to both back the timing way off (it's at 18 degrees now - should be around 10)... I also need to put an adjustable vacuum cannister on it - at idle it should be adding advance (save the starter and give advance when loping along at freeway speeds) but it most certainly won't because it takes 10 hg to move it and 15 to fully open it.edited If this motor makes 10 hg anywhere, I'd be surprised
more tomorrow.
in other news, I'm running straight 30w - and oil pressure isn't a problem... go figure
bobs77vet
Well-known member
for some reason Lars told me to dump my adjustable can and go right to a fixed can to match the vacuum produced. He told me to to measure it so I would know exactly what to buy.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
at this moment, I'm not terribly concerned about the vacuum advance - it's great for fuel economy when you're commuting - but not really worth anything in Autocross...
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
final picture of the vent
on to other issues... vacuum leak(s)
the problem started with being unable to keep it running with less then 20 degrees static.....edited
now it'll run at 9 and is at 17.edited 21 degrees comes in starting at 1000 rpm then is all in by 2000 for a total of 38 degrees.... I'll run it then see how the plugs look
on to other issues... vacuum leak(s)
the problem started with being unable to keep it running with less then 20 degrees static.....edited
now it'll run at 9 and is at 17.edited 21 degrees comes in starting at 1000 rpm then is all in by 2000 for a total of 38 degrees.... I'll run it then see how the plugs look
bobs77vet
Well-known member
i like that nice and simple.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
oh good grief
This is new
oh good, I get to buy another freaking set of push rods.... see the witness mark? it's on all the rocker arms
this side is 'fine' .... started here, adjusted valves.
time to wire a starter bump switch
and yesterday's stuff just didn't end, this is a click-to-on switch, not a momentary switch (as advertised)
so another switch later
and bumping can occur.edited pushrods arrive tomorrow... they're nearly 1/2" longeredited
by memory, stock is like 8.280 intake, 9.250 exhaust so these line up, 8.700 for the intake, and 9.550 exhaust.edited One of the problems, before, you might remember was the head studs were substantially shorter then the new ARP studs.... then the poly locks are shorter - presumptively to clear short valve covers - and it's the hex end that's actually doing the hitting...edited
This is new
oh good, I get to buy another freaking set of push rods.... see the witness mark? it's on all the rocker arms
this side is 'fine' .... started here, adjusted valves.
time to wire a starter bump switch
and yesterday's stuff just didn't end, this is a click-to-on switch, not a momentary switch (as advertised)
so another switch later
and bumping can occur.edited pushrods arrive tomorrow... they're nearly 1/2" longeredited
by memory, stock is like 8.280 intake, 9.250 exhaust so these line up, 8.700 for the intake, and 9.550 exhaust.edited One of the problems, before, you might remember was the head studs were substantially shorter then the new ARP studs.... then the poly locks are shorter - presumptively to clear short valve covers - and it's the hex end that's actually doing the hitting...edited
rtj
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2011
- Messages
- 3,140
School of hard knocks, I’ve had more than my share. Hopefully you have it this time. I saw your post in the road race thread questioning dogs at the track, might want to start with the event sponsor, then the track, then state and local laws. But, I probably don’t need to say that to a lawyer. I was surprised that this state has a leash law, which suits me fine.
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bobs77vet
Well-known member
i am not following you, it looks the rocker arm slipped off for some reason, did the push rod get damaged in the process? is the witness mark you are talking about on the rocker roller? and how is that a pushrod problem? does the push rod have too much lift?
wouldnt you expect to see a wear mark on the rocker roller? maybe it should be centered better?
wouldnt you expect to see a wear mark on the rocker roller? maybe it should be centered better?
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
the poly lock is hitting the rocker arm
one came up - I was trying to figure out why in the world it came up, then went to back the poly lock off and what you see came apart.... then even closer investigation revealed I need much longer pushrods with the Comp cams rockers....
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
winning
and spacing the valve cover up
and spacing the valve cover up
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
Valve adjusting.editededited
Hot lash is .016, since it was stone cold, I set it to .009
turns out that was really close.edited Warmed the car up and had to adjust a few valves but overall, about 50% of them didn't need adjustment. That said, I did reset them so that I'd get a good 'set' with the allen screw.edited I drove it, it sounds great, I'll drive it again tomorrow (more then a mile) then check the set.edited If I don't have to adjust, I'll leave it for 100 miles then check it again.edited my goal is 500 road miles before Optima....
in other news, I should probably change the exhaust oil seals on the passenger side... I think one is leaking
Hot lash is .016, since it was stone cold, I set it to .009
turns out that was really close.edited Warmed the car up and had to adjust a few valves but overall, about 50% of them didn't need adjustment. That said, I did reset them so that I'd get a good 'set' with the allen screw.edited I drove it, it sounds great, I'll drive it again tomorrow (more then a mile) then check the set.edited If I don't have to adjust, I'll leave it for 100 miles then check it again.edited my goal is 500 road miles before Optima....
in other news, I should probably change the exhaust oil seals on the passenger side... I think one is leaking
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
I hate exhaust leaks - and I swear by these
I get occasional passenger side smoke - thought maybe I had an exhaust valve seal going... but no oil in any of the ports or manifold...
top is left side, bottom right side
no oil on that either... but you can see how the driver's side is having trouble sealing - I've already replaced that one once and it's already gone
tomorrow's fight.... markers and signals.... when the lights are on, signals don't work but unplug the front and the rears do work
I get occasional passenger side smoke - thought maybe I had an exhaust valve seal going... but no oil in any of the ports or manifold...
top is left side, bottom right side
no oil on that either... but you can see how the driver's side is having trouble sealing - I've already replaced that one once and it's already gone
tomorrow's fight.... markers and signals.... when the lights are on, signals don't work but unplug the front and the rears do work
bobs77vet
Well-known member
tomorrow's fight.... markers and signals.... when the lights are on, signals don't work but unplug the front and the rears do work
have you done as much reengineering of the body grounds and ground points as you have everything else? i found it was almost easier to run new ground circuits to lights then to rely on the old wiring system and if there are any LED lights in there you almost need a direct ground to the battery. on my 37 ford i had a clean body ground connection 3" from the grounding strap connection from the battery and could not get the LED flasher to work. and i mean it was clean.....i had to run it directly to the battery. it was really strange. i find with the fiber glass cars the cars back feed through lights to find ground circuits and really screw every thing up
good luck
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
the lights are on a new circuit - the switch runs a relay
light fix and aiming.... first, this wasn't opening far enough
and these two bolts adjust it
eventually new arms, but 'done for now'
then aiming
time to search for a C5/C6 alignment spec for Autocross.... tomorrow is alignment time
light fix and aiming.... first, this wasn't opening far enough
and these two bolts adjust it
eventually new arms, but 'done for now'
then aiming
time to search for a C5/C6 alignment spec for Autocross.... tomorrow is alignment time
bobs77vet
Well-known member
those look great, my C5 headlights really suck i am not sure how those got so badly designed by the engineers
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
neck restraint purchased.... I think that was harder to do then buying a helmet....
let's list the choices:
- seat angle (not the angle of the seat but where your head is in relation to the seat... oh yeah, and the seat angle too)
- driver size
- car type - I hear that since Porsche drivers hit the wall tail first, they need a different device)
- race type
- seat type
- seat belt type
and then
- restraint height
- restraint helmet fastening system
- restraint fastening to body system
- HANS is both a brand AND a description
- material device is made from
- whether or not you have seat belt restraints (seriously?) yeah, there is a choice of how the seat belt is held to the device....
and finally
- Aquarius? okay maybe I made that up.... maybe.
- but even more fun? I get to do this again when I replace the seats with ones that actually keep you in the car.... I know, I'm the millionth person to complain about C3 seats, but I should get a prize for being the millionth
let's list the choices:
- seat angle (not the angle of the seat but where your head is in relation to the seat... oh yeah, and the seat angle too)
- driver size
- car type - I hear that since Porsche drivers hit the wall tail first, they need a different device)
- race type
- seat type
- seat belt type
and then
- restraint height
- restraint helmet fastening system
- restraint fastening to body system
- HANS is both a brand AND a description
- material device is made from
- whether or not you have seat belt restraints (seriously?) yeah, there is a choice of how the seat belt is held to the device....
and finally
- Aquarius? okay maybe I made that up.... maybe.
- but even more fun? I get to do this again when I replace the seats with ones that actually keep you in the car.... I know, I'm the millionth person to complain about C3 seats, but I should get a prize for being the millionth
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
motors work great on a C3.... maybe the engineers got confused?
bobs77vet
Well-known member
sorry not the motors , i meant the quality of the light coming out of the C5 headlights.
