SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
stickers add speed....
seems like a good place for this sticker
seems like a good place for this sticker
Plastic Fantastic 2
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SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
and more knocked off the list..
the list
...........................
for those who forgot what the dash looked like removed...
................................
squeeky clutch ... hmmmm
I didn't think it was possible... but here's the problem... they put the bell arm in backwards.edited But I don't think it was the PO, or at least not his fault... it's made backwards
first clue was the zert fitting... it wasn't installed - it's usually on the top, but it wasn't..
thing was, the ring that holds the cup (frame side) was machined into the wrong end. Add to that the hole for the zert was on the bottom.... turning it around solved all its issues.edited Now it can be lubed. I punted on the clip ring - I reduced weight.edited One clip ring
now the clutch works correctly, the difference is one arm is longer then the other - thus in the Corvette, where you don't have as much pedal travel as the truck, it won't work Worst, it sticks to the top of the hole in the firewall.
now it doesn't
In other news, and not on that list.. noise
and a way to test it
..................................
105db at 50 feet and 50 mph.... it idles at 100 db..... hmmm
You lost me on the clutch bellcrank issue. Your parts look the same as my '69 (and similar to a C2 arm on the shelf), including the zerk that gets lubed from underneath.
my initial problem was a squeak when you pressed the clutch pedal. the problem was the rod from the pedal was scraping the top of the hole in the firewall.
The bell arm has 2 different length arms on it. The long arm side was attached to rod that goes to the pedal. The shorter arm is the one that should have been attached to it. Basically someone welded it together wrong. Odds are yours is too.... how do I know? I spent more than a few days maintaining our shop trucks growing up - all were manual. All had that zert on the top of the bell crank.
So I took a chance, I took it apart, turn the arm around (so the long part goes to the clutch fork).... and now the clutch works perfectly (and no squeaking).
I bet someone at GM never realized the that because you could easily weld that together either way and it would work.... the right way to do what I did would be to reweld those arms on the opposite side... but who has time for that? :3rd: this works, it just means there is no clip holding the ball in place on the frame side. Also, for many cars the zert fitting would get knocked off when you used the clutch.....
In the grand scheme of the universe this clutch arm discussion isn't terribly important, so we'll just have to respectfully disagree. IMO the arms seem to be in the correct position for leverage/travel, and the holes in the arms are in the correct place for attaching the return and anti-rattle springs, and the bottom position zerk allows lubing while under the car greasing the suspension.
I'm halfway through construction of an aluminum replacement for the stock clutch bellcrank, but I've found that my spare bellcrank that I was going to use to configure my welding jig is an early C2 unit, which has a different angle between the two arms.
let's back up. The zert wasn't where I normally think they are - it was a clue not the problem.
I don't really even care how or why GM got it wrong, maybe the guy assembling it got in a fight with his wife, and she loves manuals (or Manuels) and he got his revenge in the most petty way possible. Maybe he just hated those guys who could shift their own cars. dunno, the 70s were, I hear, a wild time.
The problem is the lower needs the longer arm - and by spinning the Z-bar 180 degrees on my car:
- I rid myself of that squeak in the video (and now the rod does line up with the hole)
- I get far better clutch feel
- I get better disengagement of the clutch because rather then the clutch pedal traveling the farthest, the arm travels the greatest distance.
I the concept of agreeing to disagree - but my fix worked. Not sort of worked, not half worked, but totally fixed the problem, worked. I'll even post video of Ax from yesterday to show the problem is gone.... there's no 'difference of opinion here' except maybe where the zert should be but that has no bearing on why I did what I did (it was a nice bonus that it doesn't hit my sidepipes), said what I did, and that I enjoy that it works....
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bobs77vet
Well-known member
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
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SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
plugs
I was getting smoke the moment I got on the throttle...
initially, I thought the brake fluid was leaking onto the headers... maybe a bit...edited
lord are these things crap.edited I thought I could get another set (a whole $50) then fix them.... pretty sure the answer is a resounding no
the smoke but I think the oil leak contributed.edited The other side is dry and fine.
thankfully it's easy to change
and ramps ... tomorrow
oh, and tested today.... 111db at 50' and 6000 rpm... I'd love ideas on how to quiet it without corking it (or losing the sidepipes).... my initial thought is Supertrap disks...
I was getting smoke the moment I got on the throttle...
initially, I thought the brake fluid was leaking onto the headers... maybe a bit...edited
lord are these things crap.edited I thought I could get another set (a whole $50) then fix them.... pretty sure the answer is a resounding no
the smoke but I think the oil leak contributed.edited The other side is dry and fine.
thankfully it's easy to change
and ramps ... tomorrow
oh, and tested today.... 111db at 50' and 6000 rpm... I'd love ideas on how to quiet it without corking it (or losing the sidepipes).... my initial thought is Supertrap disks...
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SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
to be clear about a few things.
1) I drink the GM Koolaid but don't think they're perfect
2) I love the LS motor, fact is my goal with the 64 Buick wagon is to tow my Corvette with it (and it's powered by a 6.0 LS motor.)
3) I know Manuel, he's a great guy but a bit shifty.
and in the effort to modernize the BB, next up is a coil-on-plug set up
https://www.holley.com/products/ignition/ignition_boxes/street/parts/60151
and port injection
I'm also going to send the Chinesium heads packing when the funds become available (and might build another 427 based on a Dart block).... future plans. Not giving up on my idea.
1) I drink the GM Koolaid but don't think they're perfect
2) I love the LS motor, fact is my goal with the 64 Buick wagon is to tow my Corvette with it (and it's powered by a 6.0 LS motor.)
3) I know Manuel, he's a great guy but a bit shifty.
and in the effort to modernize the BB, next up is a coil-on-plug set up
https://www.holley.com/products/ignition/ignition_boxes/street/parts/60151
and port injection
I'm also going to send the Chinesium heads packing when the funds become available (and might build another 427 based on a Dart block).... future plans. Not giving up on my idea.
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phantomjock
Well-known member
Supertrap! :thumbs:
I've also been thinking along these lines too:
Many variants and prices - will require some "sleuthing." Cheers - Jim
bobs77vet
Well-known member
was that with the car moving or standing still?
what is it at idle up to say 2500 rpm? thats really when you will be going from standing still to moving, 111 db at 50 and 6000 rpm can only last for fraction of a second when its moving. what is the state regulations? and what is is inside the cabin at 6000 rpm?
my son took my 69 with side pipes to the ice cream shop parked out front got his ice cream, ate it then went back to the car and started it up and made the little kids cry, the dads were all laughing and he was apologizing....
mfain
Well-known member
Several of the Western road courses have db limits. We have one locally (Arizona Motorsports Park) that has a 96 db drive-by limit, and I can't pass it with anything I own. Some guys use Super Trapps and then turn the tip of the tail pipe 90 degrees away from the drive-by test stand. Doesn't help with side pipes.
mfain
Well-known member
I feel your pain. There is nothing like the sound of a BBC at full song, but the dependability (and weight) of an LS certainly has merit. I stuck with the big block, but went with an aluminum block (and moved the motor back 19") to keep weight off the nose. You will feel the weight of a big block up front on a road course! I have an LS7 in my ZO6 and an LS3 in my 1LE SS Camaro, and they both are super reliable and pretty stout - but still not a BBC. Even a 8.4 liter Viper motor doesn't compare. I went with port injection and coil-over-plug in the latest revision. With that you will need a good ECU to manage the higher tech solutions - some of the cheaper units won't keep up. I move slow and technology moves a lot faster, so I still have (taking up shelf space) an unused pair of Brodix BB-2 heads prepped by Sunset Racecraft with roller springs, a "new" Holley HP950 Ultra carb, a Barry Grant (been out of business a while) fuel pump, and a never-installed Dan Olsen road race pan from my "pre-dry sump" evolution days. I could have built a super stout LS for half the money as my latest BBC build, and would have had nearly as much performance capability - but it's just not the same as a BBC!
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bobs77vet
Well-known member
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
this is why you're my hero.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
I did spirals in my last C3, didn't get any significant reduction. The only thing that worked was quiet inserts - but those KILL power, I still have them around. I couldn't stand them so I went back to the other inserts - and then cut one apart to see why. It is NOT free flowing.... I'll dig it out for a picture...
as to the cone (vortex) and spirals.... this guy tested
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmv2H9ulf3s[/ame]
the tl;dr is neither helped. there is a follow up video that I haven't yet watched where he makes his own mufflers..
and I'm operating on any track I want to run at limits to 105db (and my test was static so it would reduce a bit at 50 mph - which is the test speed)
as to the cone (vortex) and spirals.... this guy tested
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmv2H9ulf3s[/ame]
the tl;dr is neither helped. there is a follow up video that I haven't yet watched where he makes his own mufflers..
and I'm operating on any track I want to run at limits to 105db (and my test was static so it would reduce a bit at 50 mph - which is the test speed)
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SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
wax, so I can see the paint flaws better
the new diff had a broken rear cover... so I bought a new one, this one comes with a cooler.... not sure I'll hook it up, but it was $45 delivered
the new diff had a broken rear cover... so I bought a new one, this one comes with a cooler.... not sure I'll hook it up, but it was $45 delivered
phantomjock
Well-known member
NICE!
part number and source, please... (as you have time).
Thanks - Jim
part number and source, please... (as you have time).
Thanks - Jim
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
NICE!
part number and source, please... (as you have time).
Thanks - Jim
2014-2015 Camaro Z/28 Rear Differential Cover
W/Cooler (22923280)
ebay, search the part number.
bobs77vet
Well-known member
nice, do you have to pump the oil exchange or is some sort of siphon or gravity heat rise system? what is the third hole for temp sensor or vent?
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
new springs.... shorter
so in news.edited Comp Cams card is for HOT lash... not cold lash... they must be trying to save ink....edited
alright, think I'm ready for dyno tuning on Friday.
so in news.edited Comp Cams card is for HOT lash... not cold lash... they must be trying to save ink....edited
alright, think I'm ready for dyno tuning on Friday.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
and yes, I spent a lot of money solving a problem I didn't have..... ah well, the trolls get a laugh.
bobs77vet
Well-known member
your car looks like a panther coming out of the jungle ready to leap on a predator....i love it
rtj
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2011
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Most of us are just trying to improve our skills and learn from others. Too bad that there are critics out there discouraging people from sharing.
Looking good. Keep up the good work.
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bobs77vet
Well-known member
screw the critics....I like what you are doing and its your car and your dime, so do what ever the eff you want.
what about the gas tank vent clamp? did that fix the leak?
what about the gas tank vent clamp? did that fix the leak?
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
the clamp fixed it
as for the trolls... I didn't know that Comp Cams defaulted to Hot with the solid roller cam. I could 'save face' and simply not say anything - but my purpose of blogging is to encourage others to share in my passion - even when I make a mistake (though I still wonder why Comp Cams didn't feel the need to add that one word - sure, it's obvious afterwards) build your car, it's not going to be perfect, even after you have lots of years of experience doing it. TV alleges that a car will run perfect after a week-long build. It doesn't, but it's okay, this is real world. stuff is going to happen, there's nothing to be ashamed of, and trolls are going to do what they do anyway... let them laugh, I have a sweet C3 they have their mommy's basement and an iPhone 4.
for those with FiTech... how to connect your laptop to your FiTech
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GgEtP6CYfIs[/ame]
as for the trolls... I didn't know that Comp Cams defaulted to Hot with the solid roller cam. I could 'save face' and simply not say anything - but my purpose of blogging is to encourage others to share in my passion - even when I make a mistake (though I still wonder why Comp Cams didn't feel the need to add that one word - sure, it's obvious afterwards) build your car, it's not going to be perfect, even after you have lots of years of experience doing it. TV alleges that a car will run perfect after a week-long build. It doesn't, but it's okay, this is real world. stuff is going to happen, there's nothing to be ashamed of, and trolls are going to do what they do anyway... let them laugh, I have a sweet C3 they have their mommy's basement and an iPhone 4.
for those with FiTech... how to connect your laptop to your FiTech
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GgEtP6CYfIs[/ame]
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SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
shorter front springs
there, balanced
old list
new list this is for max points in engineering... I may even cave and put some kind of radio in it...edited
since it was on the list, the ramps
there, balanced
old list
new list this is for max points in engineering... I may even cave and put some kind of radio in it...edited
since it was on the list, the ramps
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
376 to the tire
for the record... we didn't mess with the timing.edited It has 18* initial then I think 20 mechanical... at this point it's not knocking and the motor is still 'new' .... safe tune get some more miles under it and maybe I'll revisit the timing.... I have my eye on the coil per cylinder conversion.....edited
for the record... we didn't mess with the timing.edited It has 18* initial then I think 20 mechanical... at this point it's not knocking and the motor is still 'new' .... safe tune get some more miles under it and maybe I'll revisit the timing.... I have my eye on the coil per cylinder conversion.....edited
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bobs77vet
Well-known member
thats pretty awesome especially if you havent dialed in the timing. i am sure there is some hidden power in optimizing the timing.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
guess is at least 25 hp more. Since this 40% more then what I ran 2x before... thinking I need to get used to that.... and yet
humph.edited I went to PIR, they have noise limits.... 97 db noise limits. if you've been following along, you'll know that my noise at full song is 111 db.edited I didn't find out before I went but I'm so glad I did because I spent time with my parents - something that's been hard to do since I saw them a year ago....edited
but I have a problem to fix.edited Thinking a corkscrew with some steel wool as the first shot.edited I'm also not against injecting water to muffle the sound... I really need to be below 105 - from there it's arguable....edited
phantomjock
Well-known member
"Sounds Like" you need reverse Cut-Outs. So, cut outs are to open the system and get the HP - but yo have the opposite challenge. I did a quick dive. [seemed like a clever idea and wondered if anybody had done it before.]
Check out this video:
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QgA3mnpRUfE[/ame]
At about 2:10 he gets to the meat of the mod.
More weight, some complications, and if you went electric - could forget to switch and be Black Flagged - but an approach to consider. Any number of options in the aft (muffled) section to get to 97dB (or less). NOTE: when in OPEN - there is still flow through the aft section - you'll see that in the video when he fires it up.
Cheers - Jim
I don't know where in "class" your car fits - but the aft exhaust could blow a diffuser for some DF.
Check out this video:
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QgA3mnpRUfE[/ame]
At about 2:10 he gets to the meat of the mod.
More weight, some complications, and if you went electric - could forget to switch and be Black Flagged - but an approach to consider. Any number of options in the aft (muffled) section to get to 97dB (or less). NOTE: when in OPEN - there is still flow through the aft section - you'll see that in the video when he fires it up.
Cheers - Jim
I don't know where in "class" your car fits - but the aft exhaust could blow a diffuser for some DF.
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SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
The HP numbers* suggest I should change the entire system. The biggest issue with a cut out would be the individual runners don't meet a collector before they're outside the car. I'm pretty sure I don't have the time to fabricate an exhaust before the end of May; however, next winter I may fully refab this to put regular headers that go into side pipes ... for now, what you suggest may be the only solution... I'm also thinking a perforated corkscrew baffle with steel wool to absorb sound near the tip.
*the HP numbers, hopefully I'll get the sheets today, drops off at 6500 - otherwise it was well on its way to a lot more at the wheel. The motor basically starts making great power at 3500 then climbs a wall to 6500 where something else is happening.... need to analyze (valve control, spark control, fueling....)
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