SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
check out the system they built here.... ingenuity and a fire extinguisher
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3hne4XvaWDY[/ame]
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3hne4XvaWDY[/ame]
Plastic Fantastic 2
- Thread starter SuperBuickGuy
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SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
this is not where its forever home is... I wouldn't be able to remove the battery.... but good for now
and painted the radio cover
and painted the radio cover
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
center block installed
still needs the switches installed
so onto my favorite thing... electrical.edited No wipers, I live in the PNW, it rains here.
so this ground... needs to go to an actual ground.edited GM ran the ground through the alarm sensor - why people don't need their wipers or heater fan when the hood is up (or why that would be a feature is beyond my pay grad
So I got the wipers to work AND the heater fan works too... bonus.edited This after I stripped a new wire and managed to take the color off but left an inner liner in place - so the first ground.... didn't....love electrical.
still needs the switches installed
so onto my favorite thing... electrical.edited No wipers, I live in the PNW, it rains here.
so this ground... needs to go to an actual ground.edited GM ran the ground through the alarm sensor - why people don't need their wipers or heater fan when the hood is up (or why that would be a feature is beyond my pay grad
So I got the wipers to work AND the heater fan works too... bonus.edited This after I stripped a new wire and managed to take the color off but left an inner liner in place - so the first ground.... didn't....love electrical.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
took it to a car show today and found a problem
not sure if there are thin wipers for this... but lord knows I'm going to look for them
not sure if there are thin wipers for this... but lord knows I'm going to look for them
The original frame/wiper is very low profile. Looks like 7/8 inch. Might be hard to find though.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
The original frame/wiper is very low profile. Looks like 7/8 inch. Might be hard to find though.
thank you, I'll have to break out my big googlfu
I had to find these also but it was years ago. I do have the GM P/N 336161
Found a source that advertises this as a replacement:
https://corvetteparts.com/item/blade-16-windshield-wiper-black-finish-oem-style-1968-1982#details
Product Details
2 required fits left or right position - correct height reproduction will not hit back edge of the hood like most replacement blades
Found a source that advertises this as a replacement:
https://corvetteparts.com/item/blade-16-windshield-wiper-black-finish-oem-style-1968-1982#details
Product Details
2 required fits left or right position - correct height reproduction will not hit back edge of the hood like most replacement blades
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
I followed your suggestion... hope it works
onto other news
oil pressure has never been 'stellar' add to this the issue of that stupid owner who put an adjustable collar distributor in and there was a moment where the oil pressure was low... I've been avoiding looking - but today, I'm tired of the oil leaks... to remind, I changed the oil drain plug direction because it didn't work in the stock frame.... and it leaks.... fine, I'll pull the pan and cringe.
the leak
the oil does not give me a warm fuzzy - but the motor has 100 miles on it so I expect some break-in wear....
but wait... is that 2.170?edited
they're not perfect but they're not spun.... this set of rods seems 'loose'
but
other then I need to run a cleaner ship, they're not burnt or spun
pickup has a couple shreds but, again, I've seen worse
so the solution.... put it back together... I'm already running race-weight oils (20/50).edited From the near beginning, I've decided that I'll probably rebuild this motor with far better parts soon (actually looking for a 4 bolt block but they are scarce at the moment).edited Since I'm going to spin this up, a lot, it needs better rods and I need more compression and real Stryker heads.... anyway, this will work 'fine' just got to fix the oil leaks.edited I have two, the bottom of the pan and also it looks like some is coming out the rear china wall.... which I'm going to fix with stacks.... but that's for later....edited
but let's be sure to clarify, I'm fully committed to the 427 - it's the right motor for this car and is blindingly fast.... no LS nonsense... that's for my Buick
onto other news
oil pressure has never been 'stellar' add to this the issue of that stupid owner who put an adjustable collar distributor in and there was a moment where the oil pressure was low... I've been avoiding looking - but today, I'm tired of the oil leaks... to remind, I changed the oil drain plug direction because it didn't work in the stock frame.... and it leaks.... fine, I'll pull the pan and cringe.
the leak
the oil does not give me a warm fuzzy - but the motor has 100 miles on it so I expect some break-in wear....
but wait... is that 2.170?edited
they're not perfect but they're not spun.... this set of rods seems 'loose'
but
other then I need to run a cleaner ship, they're not burnt or spun
pickup has a couple shreds but, again, I've seen worse
so the solution.... put it back together... I'm already running race-weight oils (20/50).edited From the near beginning, I've decided that I'll probably rebuild this motor with far better parts soon (actually looking for a 4 bolt block but they are scarce at the moment).edited Since I'm going to spin this up, a lot, it needs better rods and I need more compression and real Stryker heads.... anyway, this will work 'fine' just got to fix the oil leaks.edited I have two, the bottom of the pan and also it looks like some is coming out the rear china wall.... which I'm going to fix with stacks.... but that's for later....edited
but let's be sure to clarify, I'm fully committed to the 427 - it's the right motor for this car and is blindingly fast.... no LS nonsense... that's for my Buick
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
me and math, it seems that front journal is .040 undersized not .030
measures 2.175.... now to pull the rest of the rods to see where they are. I know I measured a bunch of the rods but not all.... lesson learned
measures 2.175.... now to pull the rest of the rods to see where they are. I know I measured a bunch of the rods but not all.... lesson learned
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
oh what a glorious night
only one way I know that this can happen....
which brings me to that other, more centrally located cap...
if you say "why is the split on the bearing not at the cap? well,edited
fudge
if there's a bright side... pick the one that actually spun
did you guess?
/
/
/
you said the one on the right, correct?
wrong..... it's the one on the left... I'm going to replace the crank and call it a day.... is it right? oh hell no, however, there was some machining issues with this motor so I'm not in love with it..... and it'll give me a chance to clean up the wiring and replace the bellhousing with a blow-proof one....
oh, and if the night wasn't just peachy, I noticed this as well
motor is ready to pull
only one way I know that this can happen....
which brings me to that other, more centrally located cap...
if you say "why is the split on the bearing not at the cap? well,edited
fudge
if there's a bright side... pick the one that actually spun
did you guess?
/
/
/
you said the one on the right, correct?
wrong..... it's the one on the left... I'm going to replace the crank and call it a day.... is it right? oh hell no, however, there was some machining issues with this motor so I'm not in love with it..... and it'll give me a chance to clean up the wiring and replace the bellhousing with a blow-proof one....
oh, and if the night wasn't just peachy, I noticed this as well
motor is ready to pull
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
onto more despair
Get the Buick motor off the stand... dammit
Eventually I'll realize that spinning a bearing kept me from serious injury... which is what would have happened if I'd kept driving this
I won't say I didn't realize it and wasn't chancing it
what bugs me the most in all of this was I pushed through knowing it wasn't right... the surface on the block... it was leaking on the inside
heads are off
no fixing this
for those who pull motors from Corvettes... this is how
so decision time. I'm 70% sure the cam is wiped out too, I will send the lifters to be rebuilt and get another cam... or maybe I should say screw it and put hydraulic inside... probably not, I think solid lifters work well for this car.... but decisions.
The other decision is pistons.... I'll buy new rods for certain (better rods) - when I put this together, I realized it didn't have ARP rod bolts... so I'll fix both problems in one shot by even getting a better rod.
The motor has 100 miles on it, so I probably won't do anything with the heads other than clean them up. Surface the block for the Cometic gaskets... I have to balance the new assembly anyway, so the $500 question (and really, it is a $500 question) is do I replace the pistons with a bit more of popup and get the compression ratio to where I wanted it initially? If so, I can use a thicker gasket and not worry so much about the sealing (using a Felpro instead).
The oil leak... pretty sure it was at the distributor...
Get the Buick motor off the stand... dammit
Eventually I'll realize that spinning a bearing kept me from serious injury... which is what would have happened if I'd kept driving this
I won't say I didn't realize it and wasn't chancing it
what bugs me the most in all of this was I pushed through knowing it wasn't right... the surface on the block... it was leaking on the inside
heads are off
no fixing this
for those who pull motors from Corvettes... this is how
so decision time. I'm 70% sure the cam is wiped out too, I will send the lifters to be rebuilt and get another cam... or maybe I should say screw it and put hydraulic inside... probably not, I think solid lifters work well for this car.... but decisions.
The other decision is pistons.... I'll buy new rods for certain (better rods) - when I put this together, I realized it didn't have ARP rod bolts... so I'll fix both problems in one shot by even getting a better rod.
The motor has 100 miles on it, so I probably won't do anything with the heads other than clean them up. Surface the block for the Cometic gaskets... I have to balance the new assembly anyway, so the $500 question (and really, it is a $500 question) is do I replace the pistons with a bit more of popup and get the compression ratio to where I wanted it initially? If so, I can use a thicker gasket and not worry so much about the sealing (using a Felpro instead).
The oil leak... pretty sure it was at the distributor...
mfain
Well-known member
That's a shame - a lot of work. But the car is together and this is just cleaning up a detail or two. You will be happier with a fresh motor and no oil leaks!
Pappy
Pappy
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
I appreciate that... wish I could have your level of knowledge without the pain....
spent a good share of the evening looking at a Land Rover defender... but did get a bit further
I'll call comp cams tomorrow.... I don't think roller cams should wear into the cam - it's their springs.... we will see
The lifters spin okay, and have no play (these are bushed not roller bearing) but some are a bit dull....
ready to pull the pistons and crank.... the new crank arrives next week, hopefully I can order the rods and pistons (if I need them)... starting to think I'll just leave it alone and reuse the pistons....
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
Got off the phone with Comp Cams... they're at a loss too as to why there are tracks worn into the cam... it's been 3 years since I bought it, so no warranty, but I don't want to replay this again - and this is the 2nd time the length of the build has bit me.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
block now free.... seems like I just saw this before...
the thing is... I could make all this work...edited
now for the 'fun' part.... to be honest, I'm not in love with the heads, either....edited
the thing is... I could make all this work...edited
now for the 'fun' part.... to be honest, I'm not in love with the heads, either....edited
phantomjock
Well-known member
DEJA POO? :banghead:
Well, at least you have the experience to analyze the cause from all the bits and form a plan, and repair. I'd be more like - WTF????
Best of Luck and keep the detail flowing. I'm getting smarter. Thanks.
Cheers - Jim
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
so the decision... better rods (eagle H beam), higher compression pistons (11.0)....Comp cams took pity on me and is sending a discounted-price billet version of what I have now....edited
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
wow were they fast.... supposed to be here in the 16th....edited
measured it up, all within spec - it's a forged, steel 427 crank
this is junk.... I'm so tired of getting stuff that just isn't right - and this one springs to the top of 'not right'
look closely at the pads.... notice there is a step on the hub side?
also notice the wear?edited
the 'SFI' (marked right on it) flywheel isn't flat, nor does the inner cut out jive with the disk rotor.edited The measurements... the disk has a 6 5/8 distance between the pads.... that's nearly 7"
$614 gone..... once I figure out who, I'll publish.
good news is my wipers arrived and they look like they just might clear
measured it up, all within spec - it's a forged, steel 427 crank
this is junk.... I'm so tired of getting stuff that just isn't right - and this one springs to the top of 'not right'
look closely at the pads.... notice there is a step on the hub side?
also notice the wear?edited
the 'SFI' (marked right on it) flywheel isn't flat, nor does the inner cut out jive with the disk rotor.edited The measurements... the disk has a 6 5/8 distance between the pads.... that's nearly 7"
$614 gone..... once I figure out who, I'll publish.
good news is my wipers arrived and they look like they just might clear
bobs77vet
Well-known member
that sucks .....i had a clutch plate once that the center hole was not concentric and it would jam itself in to the pressure plate.....that really screwed with trying to diagnosing it...
it would spin freely when i would test it but as soon as it got more then 230* of rotation it would be jammed
it would spin freely when i would test it but as soon as it got more then 230* of rotation it would be jammed
bobs77vet
Well-known member
yikes i just caught up.......i picked the one on the right too????
holy cow that sucks....i would still be crying and drinking
holy cow that sucks....i would still be crying and drinking
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
Pretty sure this flywheel is Summit's in-house brand (left) right is a Centerforce
big surprise it couldn't deal with any heat
pretty/sparkly
big surprise it couldn't deal with any heat
pretty/sparkly
Last edited:
mfain
Well-known member
Nice stuff. I just had an off-the-wall thought. I was reading an article by Essex on brake rotors. They said if you apply ducted air to the inside face of a brake rotor, with no forced air for the outside surface, then the rotor will develop cracks and will probably "cone" due to uneven heat distribution.. I had a Hayes flywheel "cone" and I was running a Lakewood scatter shield with no front dust cover, so air was hitting the forward side of the flywheel. Now I wonder if the unequal cooling caused a problem that caused the flywheel to bow out in the middle. Were you running a dust cover?
rtj
Well-known member
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I see you say centerforce flywheel, are you using a centerforce clutch? I have an expensive centerforce clutch sitting in a box with under 1000 miles. It would slip no matter what I tried with adjustments. Put in an $700 ram clutch and no more problems.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
I don't know, one of the upgrades is a blow-proof Lakewood bellhousing.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
well, most of the parts are here - so hopefully I can get it to the machinist so I can wait another month
my shear is unhappy
why important? well, there's these
that are part of this
which are to cover this hole
lovely... I get to do it by hand
my shear is unhappy
why important? well, there's these
that are part of this
which are to cover this hole
lovely... I get to do it by hand
bobs77vet
Well-known member
dont those have to be flexible for lower arm movement?
the MGA race cars had those louvered
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/twincam/tc117.htm
the MGA race cars had those louvered
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/twincam/tc117.htm
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
they're inside the pivot point of the control arm....
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
Found a machine shop today - I'm hoping this works out.... but at this moment, I think February may come and my parts won't be done
in other news.edited metal work
need to get a better saw blade tomorrow
in other news.edited metal work
need to get a better saw blade tomorrow
