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usually it's a failure of the vacuum system... in this case, I have no vacuum so it wasn't even an option
figured out the distributor problem, a wire got caught between the base and the intake....edited
I see a bit lean, late timing....edited
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what is 'stock'edited
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I'm going back to it for the following reasons
1) there is nothing holding the lower row of rockers in line
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2) note the alignment of the exhaust
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3) doesn't fit well
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I needed to also adjust the rockers - some were way out, but that's to be expected on a new motor....edited
 
I'm not as technical as a lot of you here, but I do like trying to solve problems. For your actuator limiting, if you can't move the limit switches, could you put the base of the actuator on a floating bracket with a spring. Have 2 pieces of metal, 1 rigid mounted and 1 floating held in place with a guide and a spring to pull when it reaches full bottom. When it goes full up the spring would decompress.

Or use like a drawer slide that will allow enough travel of the actuator "extra travel". For example, if the actuator has 10" travel and you only need 6", have a slide that will travel 4".
 
I'm not as technical as a lot of you here, but I do like trying to solve problems. For your actuator limiting, if you can't move the limit switches, could you put the base of the actuator on a floating bracket with a spring. Have 2 pieces of metal, 1 rigid mounted and 1 floating held in place with a guide and a spring to pull when it reaches full bottom. When it goes full up the spring would decompress.

Or use like a drawer slide that will allow enough travel of the actuator "extra travel". For example, if the actuator has 10" travel and you only need 6", have a slide that will travel 4".

good thinking, it's how GM solved the problem - basically, my thought is remove the vacuum actuators and replace the with linear ones. The ratio is even about what you suggestion. the distance to lift the headlight with the pictured parts below is 9 1/2", with these parts, it's 3" and has springs to do what you suggest

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anyway
tonight was blowing warranties
first, I need to start looking at cutting off the anti-chatter from the new pads
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then decide how to mount these
but first, take them apart
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onto boring stuff....edited
shifter boot
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new post covers
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the problem is the top corner wears out and looks terrible
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no idea how this happened... annoying, but not changing it for now
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door panels are coming soon.edited I spent the balance of the evening tuning.... something is off - the IAC is wide open, maybe stuck, dunno... also 10 psi hot oil pressure at idle is not making me happy.... 60 psi at full song, but the low pressure....edited
 
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I've said it before, and I'll say it again with illustration.edited The IAC isn't working, so today I called FiTech - they picked up their phone before it rang, answered the question and I have a couple things to do .... and bob's my uncle (well, he was but he died)...

There isn't an aftermarket EFI which works perfect out of the box.I've dealt with all of them now, but that 'doesn't even ring' before their tech line is there to answer my question should be the first thing anyone does when they do EFI.
 
and now, taking it further apart - but with new seat belts
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took a bit of modification to fit

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camera battery died, but the next picture would have shown the dash completely removed
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the power windows weren't getting power.edited The short version, I now know where that orange wire with the red plug goes.... of course, I had nicely tucked it up in the dash about the same level as the headlight switch - which meant pulling it all apart.edited Ah well, they work now





I'm putting the footwell carpet in my car right now. Yours looks like it fits a lot better. Any tips? Glue? Heat gun?



.
 
and now, taking it further apart - but with new seat belts
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took a bit of modification to fit

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camera battery died, but the next picture would have shown the dash completely removed
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the power windows weren't getting power.edited The short version, I now know where that orange wire with the red plug goes.... of course, I had nicely tucked it up in the dash about the same level as the headlight switch - which meant pulling it all apart.edited Ah well, they work now





I'm putting the footwell carpet in my car right now. Yours looks like it fits a lot better. Any tips? Glue? Heat gun?



.

I reused the front two carpets.... the stuff behind the seats is a cheap carpet that is contact-cemented to the various spaces. The area behind the cage is a carpet made of RV carpet insulation and (again) cheap (low weight) carpet. I love german weave carpets, but there was no chance I was using it here because it is really hard to work with - requiring cutting, gluing and a lot of steam.
 
still not 100% on the motor, but the spark plug boots (despite wrap and heat boots) are not surviving well...edited
first replace the IAC valve (it was stuck), then reprogram
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but onto other things. I'm going away from the actuator to C5 headlight motors.edited The biggest issue is opening them if something fails, using the C5 motors makes it possible to open them manually...edited
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still haven't decided if I'll use a C4 controller or Arduino... strangely enough, it would probably be easier to learn Arduino then the wiring for the C4 controller... time will tell
also rebuild the arms
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depin the motors
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in other bench-clearing news, rubber bumpers were installed
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Those hood louvers are just asking for an Arduino sketch and a servo motor (maybe an under-hood temp/pressure sensor too)! I've delayed jumping down that rabbit hole (although I have a complete kit and some sample sketches) 'cause I really need to make some progress on the 'vette!

Cheers - Jim
 
Those hood louvers are just asking for an Arduino sketch and a servo motor (maybe an under-hood temp/pressure sensor too)! I've delayed jumping down that rabbit hole (although I have a complete kit and some sample sketches) 'cause I really need to make some progress on the 'vette!

Cheers - Jim

you are not wrong.
 
as discussed before... rubbers
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the most important is the one at the top of the radiator, without it and cooling is likely going to be an issue
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onto metal work... radio block
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headlight motor bracket
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they will work, but I may remake themedited
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basically it bolts to where the vacuum canisters were - next up, maybe remake and arms
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light work

another view of the setup
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kind of the goal
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new springs
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time for pottery
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the MSD boots can bend... but not enough
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need to cut the bottom so the rod can go back and forth
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onward with door panel replacement
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You can $200 by reusing the internal garnishments.... that's per panel
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the door lock plate is an exception - it requires being cut off then reattached... I used epoxy
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looks lots better
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still working on the motors
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more fixing
how to test if the switch has failed
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new switch
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the old broken one... looks new... it was... it would allow zero volts occasionally when the switch was in the run position...
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I'm not sure I'm thrilled with this yet.... but ground some clearance
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So a bit of backtracking.edited When I did the suspension, I was loathe to spend for new brakes, new brake hoses or even a new, adjustable proportioning valve.edited The suspension works well so time to color in those spots
I was close on the holes on the front spindles... time to fix that
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rear is easier - need to turn the rotors to get the glaze/rust off then new pads
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the wiring issue.... plugged into acc2, moved it to the same blade as the ignition...
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then moved the fuel pump up to an always on blade - it's controlled by the computer, this is just the power to the relay
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got my rotors turned so I could reassemble the rear
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the fronts.... going to redrill the holes - I should say, a more precise friend is going to
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onward
some of the parts arrived for the brake balancer
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would you look at that?
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seriously, would you look at THAT!
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mmm, shiney pretty
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hopefully I can wrap out the brake upgrades by Tuesday - fingers crossed
 
I'm not "there" yet, but your efforts give me an approximate timeline and pseudo parts list to work with as a guide. Expect it will take longer than you.
:thumbs:
 
I'm not "there" yet, but your efforts give me an approximate timeline and pseudo parts list to work with as a guide. Expect it will take longer than you.
:thumbs:

My goal is by first snow to have this done.... there's more then a little sarcasm in that estimate.

I've got a real shot at making it before the first snow - in Phoenix. May not occur this year. :drink:

Pappy
 
finished up the line install... waiting on the spindles
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minor fix to the headlight
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such junk, 40 year old plastic.. smh
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spent a few minutes resolving the pop up issue... simple fix
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and also an alignment problemedited
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just a bit of bend and no more binding
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not a fan of them rolling the wire up
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easy enough to flatten with my rollers - however because the wire isn't welded, it can shift (wear gloves)
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Hmm
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more hmmm
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