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I am so stoked!!!!!!


You are good to run your car in GTV this season. Please let me know if you have any other questions.
Thank you,
Mike Morrison | Chief of Tech & Road Course Segment Manager
 
I am so stoked!!!!!!


You are good to run your car in GTV this season. Please let me know if you have any other questions.
Thank you,
Mike Morrison | Chief of Tech & Road Course Segment Manager

Congrats. The competition in GTV is plenty stiff. When are you planning on running your first event? Have you looked at the Wilwood Corvette Challenge? It is run at the West coast tracks, is put on by Speed Ventures, and has a vintage class for Corvettes C-4 and older. I tried to enter, but Speed Ventures determined my car was more of a purpose-built race car and was therefore ineligible. I can still run with them, just not compete in the challenge.

Pappy
 
I am so stoked!!!!!!


You are good to run your car in GTV this season. Please let me know if you have any other questions.
Thank you,
Mike Morrison | Chief of Tech & Road Course Segment Manager

Congrats. The competition in GTV is plenty stiff. When are you planning on running your first event? Have you looked at the Wilwood Corvette Challenge? It is run at the West coast tracks, is put on by Speed Ventures, and has a vintage class for Corvettes C-4 and older. I tried to enter, but Speed Ventures determined my car was more of a purpose-built race car and was therefore ineligible. I can still run with them, just not compete in the challenge.

Pappy

My plan is running the Vegas one at the end of March and/or the Willow Springs one at the end of May. That said, if I do well enough, I can ship my car then fly to the other tracks.... even have that dialed in if it comes to pass

I hear you about GTV, that said, it was the Outlaw class I was striving to avoid. I have some plans on getting some training - so hopefully I can do okay in the Novice class.... had they said Outlaw - I would have said no, there be monsters there..

The Wilwood one is what you pointed out once before? (after I posted up a couple videos of a pair of C3s tangling it up on the track?) I'll take any chance I can get to get some skills... if it fits, I'll go for certain. I was looking through their facebook page, their argument against your car makes me chuckle a bit - I have a friend with a C7, it's nothing like what I'm seeing there...
 
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Since the news, I best get on getting this thing ready... the block and balanced assembly will be back either late this week or early next
So Skid Factory Al said wrinkles make you faster.... wrinkle paint
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this will probably take days to wrinkle because it's not even close to 60*F here
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also time to clear and paint the stuff that remains aluminum color
first coat of clear showed stains

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so a bit of aluminum paint and all is good
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and straight clear
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I am so stoked!!!!!!


You are good to run your car in GTV this season. Please let me know if you have any other questions.
Thank you,
Mike Morrison | Chief of Tech & Road Course Segment Manager

My plan is running the Vegas one at the end of March and/or the Willow Springs one at the end of May. That said, if I do well enough, I can ship my car then fly to the other tracks.... even have that dialed in if it comes to pass

I hear you about GTV, that said, it was the Outlaw class I was striving to avoid. I have some plans on getting some training - so hopefully I can do okay in the Novice class.... had they said Outlaw - I would have said no, there be monsters there..

The Wilwood one is what you pointed out once before? (after I posted up a couple videos of a pair of C3s tangling it up on the track?) I'll take any chance I can get to get some skills... if it fits, I'll go for certain. I was looking through their facebook page, their argument against your car makes me chuckle a bit - I have a friend with a C7, it's nothing like what I'm seeing there...

I talked about the Ultimate Track Car Challenge before. It is run once a year at VIR and the top ten cars will be Hendrick's Track Cars (converted Cup cars), tube chassis Challengers with NASCAR motors, some open wheel stuff, and a 900 whp Mustang that reaches 180 mph on the back straight. You can still run at Wilwood Corvette Challenge events even though you may not be part of the formal competition. I plan on showing up occasionally as an "outsider". Their events are at West coast tracks and you could probably get some track time at one of the tracks you plan on running in the Optima - Willow comes to mind. You will need some track time to get the car sorted. BTW, Speed Venture's concern about my car was the mostly tube chassis and the motor set-back.
 
I am so stoked!!!!!!


You are good to run your car in GTV this season. Please let me know if you have any other questions.
Thank you,
Mike Morrison | Chief of Tech & Road Course Segment Manager

My plan is running the Vegas one at the end of March and/or the Willow Springs one at the end of May. That said, if I do well enough, I can ship my car then fly to the other tracks.... even have that dialed in if it comes to pass

I hear you about GTV, that said, it was the Outlaw class I was striving to avoid. I have some plans on getting some training - so hopefully I can do okay in the Novice class.... had they said Outlaw - I would have said no, there be monsters there..

The Wilwood one is what you pointed out once before? (after I posted up a couple videos of a pair of C3s tangling it up on the track?) I'll take any chance I can get to get some skills... if it fits, I'll go for certain. I was looking through their facebook page, their argument against your car makes me chuckle a bit - I have a friend with a C7, it's nothing like what I'm seeing there...

I talked about the Ultimate Track Car Challenge before. It is run once a year at VIR and the top ten cars will be Hendrick's Track Cars (converted Cup cars), tube chassis Challengers with NASCAR motors, some open wheel stuff, and a 900 whp Mustang that reaches 180 mph on the back straight. You can still run at Wilwood Corvette Challenge events even though you may not be part of the formal competition. I plan on showing up occasionally as an "outsider". Their events are at West coast tracks and you could probably get some track time at one of the tracks you plan on running in the Optima - Willow comes to mind. You will need some track time to get the car sorted. BTW, Speed Venture's concern about my car was the mostly tube chassis and the motor set-back.

I reached out to a friend who does the Mustang challenge - my hope/theory is get some track time with them. For me, Willow Springs is 16 hours away (drive time) ... so I'm hoping that it dries out enough that I can run at my local tracks (Shelton and Pacific Raceways). BC is close too but the border is closed and I'm pretty sure there is no racecar exception.
 
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Well, got a late start.... seems a friend in Langley BC cleaned his shop, so I had to do something....edited

then I cleaned wiring
just call me Mr. Clean

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positive on the right side, negative on the left...
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and the wrinkle finish was disappointing... ah well
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and the wrinkle finish was disappointing... ah well

I'd shoot another coat and then carefully use a heat gun. It's worked for me - but YMMV.

Cheers - Jim
BTW - so cool getting the clearance for GTV. I'm in SPU with the little car and have kept planning on SPO for the 'vette. It is sort of an Outlaw Class, but there are a few 'vettes in my region that are there too so will be fun.
 
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and the wrinkle finish was disappointing... ah well

I'd shoot another coat and then carefully use a heat gun. It's worked for me - but YMMV.

Cheers - Jim
BTW - so cool getting the clearance for GTV. I'm in SPU with the little car and have kept planning on SPO for the 'vette. It is sort of an Outlaw Class, but there are a few 'vettes in my region that are there too so will be fun.

I plan on beating this car like it owes me money - so after this summer, (hopefully) I'm to the maintenance-only stage and can try other types of racing. Up here, autocross is probably the most popular (after off-road), and also the closest to me with the tuners who play up at Monroe Speedway.

That said, zipping down to Portland isn't out of the question for a weekend. Further than that - and it becomes a bit more of an affair (which I may rectify soon with a new-to-me tow rig/class B camper).... just takes time and money...
 
Just a thought - and adding more work for you - BUT as long as the block is out and "empty." Tap the 8 flow-back/drain hole in the lifter valley with a 1/4 NPT. That way if you ever decide to install a Dry Sump - you can easily add the stand off pipes Ive seen. That seems to be where I'm trying to work a solution as my engine is assembled (bottom end).

Beat it likes it owes me money - I like it (I'm taking that).
Class B and Trailer - my plan too - maybe see you on the road.:friends:

Cheers - Jim
 
probably a dumb question - but 1/4" stand off pipes in the lifter valley?

*edit

I see you're running a SBC. Mine is a BBC, lifter screens would probably be a good idea, but (I add this for random readers) it doesn't have the lifter-valley 'holes' that are capped or have standoffs to reduce oil dropping back through the center of the motor...

windage is a much larger problem in the limited space of a stroked SBC than it is with a destroked BBC. Jury is out whether I'm brilliant or an idiot for big-bore/short-stroke motor. Thankfully, I only play a car guy on evenings and weekends
 
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time to hone
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and then a problem (actually a couple problems)...first, the hole wasn't lined with the oil feed (not a huge deal) however, these bearings weren't looking happy, then there was the notches where they were installed... I can't imagine having to pull this all the way apart to repair cam bearings... so out they come
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the easiest way to do this...
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bonus issue... I went to clean the passages and one plug was finger tight.... 2 had thread lock, one was loose, the other was okay... I'll stake them when they go back in (and drill a hole for timing chain oiling
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that bearing probably isn't reusable....
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I really like the detail you are providing on this build. I forgot you are on a BBC!
We interrupt this program..:

The general idea is two fold. Keep crap out of the bottom end, and that includes excess oil (and the scavenge does that). Tapping the holes is something I thought of as you are torn down - wish my SBC had been done at that point. And the BBC has a different layout And, OOPS - forgot you're doing a BBC.

But there are some approached to consider before you "put the lid on". Norval (sometime poster here) added a screen over his valley on his BBC to keep lifter parts out of the bottom end. Seems like good insurance screen003.jpg. Kind of a "while you at it" task. Might use a finer mesh, but the screen he added would keep out the big chunks. Milodon makes a kit, Milodon 23160 Lifter Valley Screen Kits Big Block Chevy [HINT - pitstopusa.com is over 10 bucks cheaper than ebay]. I'm going to add neo-magnets as well to my lifter valley. You can find those and install like washers at: https://www.kjmagnetics.com

Now I gotta figure something out or just deal with it as is. Wish somebody made mini-freeze plugs to pound in the holes in the lifter valley on the SBC!

Cheers - Jim

I'll add more-better info on my progress/research on the other thread.

Now, back to your regularly scheduled program...
 
Time to start moving in the right direction
but first remove the rest of the cam bearings...edited
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note the problem? while it is true that BBC bearings are different diameters, this is the first I've seen where one is narrower

but now I can paint
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this stuff works well, so again....
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how to store it
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shiney
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get it to flash so I can start assembly tomorrow
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that looks awesome....as to the really big mesh wire on the lifter gallery what about all the smaller stuff that can get through it, does keeping the big stuff out really make a difference if the smaller stuff is getting through it?
 
the reason I use non-needle bearings in both the rockers and lifters... there's nothing up or down that will shed little bits into the oil system.. the problem with BB's is they can hold oil up on the top.... which, I'd really rather not experience.

I could epoxy a screen in place - but it's a restriction... at least that's my take on it - there are other opinions.

time to build
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cam bearings in
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rear plug in place
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my clever way of figuring out which bolts hold the windage tray
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studly
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.042 above the deck (yes, I know the piston is in upside dow)
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I figured when it took .040 to get the deck right that I'd be using spacer gaskets... 080 to the rescue
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and while I'm at it, mark the balancer
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in other news, this idea needs some work... I'm not a fan of using the aluminum steering shaft, but welding aluminum to steel is beyond my abilities
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so that's a Camaro one.... problem is it's splined rather than flatted.... I may fix that... but we'll see
 
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In other news, Wilwood Corvette Challenge. There is no way this year, but I can totally see doing it in 2022.... As long as the car is reliable, I can store it in S. Cal or Vegas.. they fly and drive..... but let's see how this first round goes... I know there's a mountain of knowledge to gain and all I see are the foothills.
 
the reason I use non-needle bearings in both the rockers and lifters... there's nothing up or down that will shed little bits into the oil system.. the problem with BB's is they can hold oil up on the top.... which, I'd really rather not experience.

interesting and I had thought my roller bearing rocker arms was a good thing never thought about it that way, of course they repalced the stamped rockers that broke.

nice photos i definitely am living this build vicariously
 
the reason I use non-needle bearings in both the rockers and lifters... there's nothing up or down that will shed little bits into the oil system.. the problem with BB's is they can hold oil up on the top.... which, I'd really rather not experience.
.......................

I share your concern. :thumbs:

I made one exception, that being a needle thrust bearing between the cam sprocket and the block. It is the one part that causes me frequent concern when running the engine hard on track days.
 
the reason I use non-needle bearings in both the rockers and lifters... there's nothing up or down that will shed little bits into the oil system.. the problem with BB's is they can hold oil up on the top.... which, I'd really rather not experience.

interesting and I had thought my roller bearing rocker arms was a good thing never thought about it that way, of course they replaced the stamped rockers that broke.

nice photos i definitely am living this build vicariously

The stock LS that brought needle bearing rocker concern to the world - however, it was a friend who is running a BBC 427 in Miss Blue (something or another) that lunched at least 2 motors due to roller bearings set loose in the motor that convinced me. (they're also the ones who are getting 1100 hp NA out of a BBC 427 - that also helped but I'm not running 14:1 or methanol so my mountain is not quite as monsterous).
 
onward with the motor.
$15.00 engine bags? uh no, how about 10 for $35.00 100 gallon trash tote liners?editededited
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measure the end play
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to spec
eyeball the scraper
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seems fine
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hmm... problem
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clean and reassemble the oil pump (with new pickup)
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time to assemble pistons (can't do the scraper without the pistons in)
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and yet.... it's now a 4 cylinder
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Storytime... doesn't include scraper... well, it doesn't end in a scraper
but first things first, I owe the motor 4 more pistons
number 8.... and yes, I bought a one-size piston ring compressor.... break one ring, once, and you'll (like me) think this is cheap insurance
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started marking it out
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realized that I'd take most of it off... for very little (if any) benefitedited
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because there is also a windage tray
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however, as I pointed out before - it hits the pan
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next up, remove the stud, cut 3/8" off, reinstall...edited
 
your engine building skills are way over mine....(thats a good thing) the blue thing is a scraper to remove oil on the rotating mass? or is it to give you pan clearance or both?
 
your engine building skills are way over mine....(thats a good thing) the blue thing is a scraper to remove oil on the rotating mass? or is it to give you pan clearance or both?

yep, scraper now scrap.... after I got to the windage tray mounted I realized that the scraper was doing nothing but creating the possibility of an oil leak (because the windage tray is within .040 of the weights).
 
To be clear about something.I measured the main caps with the original bolts and with the studs torqued to spec, there was no difference in diameter IN CAPITAL LETTERS, YOU MUST CHECK THIS but in this case, there was no need to hone.
 
I just got my new gasket yesterday, and today the rails came for my oil pan. The Fel-Pro gasket has these cool "doofers" to screw into the block, and then snap in the gasket to hold while installing the pan. Something I'll need while laying under the car. I'm jealous of your engine work and being out of the chassis.

I've got to wait for the Ceracoat to arrive next week to spray the pan (outside heat transfer coating). Then I'll catch up -- HAHA!

Seriously nice work there.

Cheers - Jim
 
catch up... I'm so far behind already...

trimmed
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wooohooo?
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ah no
look close, the back is too high
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I suspect it's hitting the rear stands... but tomorrow I'm getting a replacement endoscope and can check easily enough.... still hope to have it in the car this weekend.
though, before I noticed the pan was too far back - I measured the clearance.... 1/2" is enough
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time to find all the pieces to degree the cam
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it's been long enough that I forgot the degree wheel attaches to the crank spinner
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onward
as much as I hated the thought, these were hitting too
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I may not have charitable thoughts towards Moroso.... but then again, GM really didn't move those around at all
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just a bit of grinding and cutting and it fits fine
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have to set the cam button, but need the gasket in place
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and check clearance... it 'should' be fine, now I know it will be fine
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I love a well-studded head
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starting to look like a motor again
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