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in other news, I got the parts from Aiden American so installed them
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Pardon my ignorance, but I'm unclear what your change here was.

I'm trying to do a mod on my front shocks, and this post caught my attention.

the bushing was too small of an internal diameter to put that cross shaft.. I didn't realize it was too small, so it became a two order, two week ordeal...




I'm still unclear here. Did you replace the bearing with a poly bushing?

My reason for asking is that I'm trying to replace the bottom rubber bushings on my Bilsteins, and I'm looking for options out there.

yes-ish... what appears as a spherical bearing in the first picture is more akin to a tube through poly. The difference is the inner diameter is larger to allow for the other rod to run through it
 
that is pretty cool, I have a hard enough time bending brake lines to get them as I want....what kind of leverage do you get to make the bend is it hydraulic?
 
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it works but it doesn't (the software).... the upper bar was 9" too long - but everything else was right....edited I think it didn't add the distance that you gain in a radius.... dunno, but onward
the first bar that was 9" too wide (welded it together so I could use it for test fitting)
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seems to fit fine
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new bar fits as the old one
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The new bar in the rear most position
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the more forward position
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a drawing of where I'm going... I think... the bar above the floor will bolt through into the frame that is tied to the frame.edited It will also bolt to the seat-belt anchors
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battery will go there (behind the passenger seat)
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I'll listen to input - however keep in mind it simply has to work as a belt anchor and tie the frame together.editededited

more pictures of where I think it's going to land - there will be a forward brace and cross bracesedited
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I really do need to cross brace the frame - that that is a fight for another day

bender in operation
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this is for posterity.... 3 1/2" to the start of the bend from the clamp on my bender....edited
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Not sure if you need to pass any roll cage regulations, but I think they limit the lean angle and also the lean direction of the main hoop.

If not, no problem.
 
it's more a seat belt bar that does other duties....

still learning how to use this.... would be awesome for these brackets
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roll bar plates
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with some bends
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in my old brake - there are advantages to using this over the other brake - the other is good for repetition but set up would be longer (and potential for screw up)
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a couple more brackets... this ties to the seat belt anchors
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got distracted by life stuff today, but went a little forward
tabs to bar
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fit then tack the bottom plate
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next up is the cross bars.edited I also bought the aluminum for the floor pan
 
frame brace
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and weld the seat belt hoop up.... it needs a bunch more tubes, but figured I'd weld when I had a minute
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it also didn't come out easily, which is fine - the tab will need to be pushed back to the to top then bolted in place.... anyway, that's it for tonight
 
Some say those kind use less space to run and you can use a magnet digital angle meter which is important to some. Your bender looks heavy duty.
 
Some say those kind use less space to run and you can use a magnet digital angle meter which is important to some. Your bender looks heavy duty.

the biggest issue is multiple angles. You have the bend angle, but not all tubes are bent solely on the X and Y axis. By going vertical, you have 90* of freedom to work in the Z direction. With horizontal benders, the floor, often, gets in the way of the X axis....

second, being perpendicular to the floor is easier to do (for me) then parallel - especially when there's a lot of weight hanging in mid-air

third, follows the perpendicular - you can use a framing square to check but also you can look down to the pipe behind the machine to line up 90*


The biggest selling point for horizontal is it's a lot easier to feed the machine because you have freedom to slide the part back into the machine then put the shoes in place to continue a bend... trying to re-line up an under-bent piece is a challenge with the vertical machines.
 
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since I have some enforced time off.... might as well make the best of it but working on this
First some radiator support brackets
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weld in place then give it a good cool downedited because I'm done after this
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then work a few minutes (again, cool down time) on the rear cage/support
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then start on this tie-together... I think I'm going to have a problem and have to shorten the driveshaft... ugh oh well.edited If I leave it this length, I'm pretty sure it'll never come back out without pulling the motor....edited
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the other benefit of this brace is I can build the belly pan and have a good attachment point
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my big, hairy, audacious goal is paint the car at the end of these 2 weeks....edited
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time to make it level.... and drag out the stands
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then weld it yesterday's part and this into place
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this creates the floor for the cargo area and also allows me to run cross braces that tie through it to the frame
 
tire stripping earlier today
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easy
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time to weld the cross brace together
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and remove this inner wall
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removed
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I think the braces will look like this then cut the middle out so I can put the battery in the battery box (that will be behind the chassis brace)
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I need another bracket solution... think the alternator is going to move to the other side
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my virus hidaway
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let there be paint
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so the V... is so I can put the battery behind the brace
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chop chop
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tack tack
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weld weld
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paint paint
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more chop chop
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mostly it's there because I needed to weld the bar - but any extra space behind the seat is a good thing.edited tomorrow, floor
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battery box issues
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and it can get through the hole...
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but I dunno, I've threatened before to put it in the engine compartment - but even there has issues (too close to heat)...
 
Battery -

Looks like (there is now a tray) you are settling on the location in general.
Any thoughts to:
1. Swapping out for a top lug style?
2. Moving slightly to left - offset some driver weight?
3. Putting lugs to rear - looks awful close to your cross-member. (tough to change out - again top lugs easier)​

Guessing a "tie-down" is coming soon too.

Nice C.A.D. work!

Cheers - Jim
 
time to make it real
but first, a brake repair
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now I can bend
to be honest, I haven't decided if ribs are necessary
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the tonight project is fill these holes
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battery box
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and there it is... means the 'floor' is a bit taller, but since that area is pretty much useless once the roll bar is in place.... no biggie
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