C3-Jeep Steering Gear Conversion

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I see you figured out that the only way to put the steering gear and the steering shaft in co-axial is to put the notch on top of the frame (without moving the end of the column up and the steering wheel down)

Nice job, looks very well done!

Yep, looks about right. :)

534a40cd63c2afd.jpg
 

Yeah, That pic you posted a while ago is where it all began for me,
ThanksLOL
I mixed a bit of Striders install, he used that quarter inch plate, and yours.

I also wanted to mount the box like the original, from out side the frame.
More work but worth it, I think.

The only difference is that the Jeep box had 4 bolts.
 
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I respect the workmanship that you all did on your Jeep conversions, but can't help comment that it's a bit much.....

for ME it would be two plates, through drill, 3-4 bolts/nutz, and maybe a plate on the wheel/outside of the frame....relying on the frame to distribute the load adequately.....of course I have a cross support from A arm to A arm....

My rack in the same lateral loading area, is mounted with maybe 25% of the material, and it's been there for some 10 years now.....now it IS true I don't race /autocross the car daily, but I did it a few times some years ago.... stupid thing is fine....I just mounted the rack in the stock fore/aft location of the OEM cross link...figgering the tie rods would be fine....

from all observations, seems I have done my own version of the commercial products....for maybe 200 bux.....

:club:
 
I respect the workmanship that you all did on your Jeep conversions, but can't help comment that it's a bit much.....

for ME it would be two plates, through drill, 3-4 bolts/nutz, and maybe a plate on the wheel/outside of the frame....relying on the frame to distribute the load adequately.....of course I have a cross support from A arm to A arm....

My rack in the same lateral loading area, is mounted with maybe 25% of the material, and it's been there for some 10 years now.....now it IS true I don't race /autocross the car daily, but I did it a few times some years ago.... stupid thing is fine....I just mounted the rack in the stock fore/aft location of the OEM cross link...figgering the tie rods would be fine....

from all observations, seems I have done my own version of the commercial products....for maybe 200 bux.....

:club:

I guess it's a matter on how much time and effort a guy want to put on something.
For some, too much isnt enough.
 
Michel, can we officially call your restoration rebooted?
Looks like to me...couldn't wait.:bounce:
 
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BBShark,

I believe I collected the information I need to get this started but I had a couple questions. I may have missed it in your article...
1) is the Jeep box used a 1999-2004 box power steering box?
2) do I have to remove the front clip or any part of the body to install this MOD? I seen something about the bolts used...
3) it appears to have the frame drilled and tapped to tighten the large 3 bolts?
4) what is tapped to tighten the 4 silver bolts?
5) I have a tilt-telescopic column, will I have to modify this too?

Sorry if I missed something but trying to figure this out so I can buy the parts. I am thinking of buying a re-manufacturer gear box from savage but not sure if I need to... I seen a write up about your set up on Corvette Forum compairing to the the Borgeson modified steering box. They say the Borgeson is easier but it cost $670.35 on Amazon. The one on amazon also has a couple specs I am not sure about. (For cars with factory style power steering and a 1"-48 spline column)

I would pay you for your time if you have it.

-Steve
 
Steve,

1) is the Jeep box used a 1999-2004 box power steering box? Jeep Grand Cherokee, Correct
2) do I have to remove the front clip or any part of the body to install this MOD? I seen something about the bolts used...Part of the inner wheel well blocks one or two of the bolts. Easy to cut away and glass back in
3) it appears to have the frame drilled and tapped to tighten the large 3 bolts? The frame is not tapped
4) what is tapped to tighten the 4 silver bolts? The adapter plates are tapped 7/16-20
5) I have a tilt-telescopic column, will I have to modify this too? The shaft has to be knocked back in
 
. They say the Borgeson is easier but it cost $670.35 on Amazon.
I do think the price is a good bang for the buck.
Price-wise, you got to compare them to a rebuilt steering box, not a junkyard unit because this what they are, blueprinted Jeep box.
Add to that the price of the pitman arm...

I think you can find the Borgeson for cheaper, I've seen it sold without the accessories for 5 hundred something.
It would have been the right choice for me if I knew at the time, because as I put an hydroboost I had to make custom line anyway, and I went for a U-joint instead of the supplied ragjoint.
 
So, a forum member "Ignatz" on the CF did a nice test to show the frame flex induced by the integral steering box:

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRYh9aQBQ0U[/ame]

To ensure maximum loading, the car was fitted with 275 Hoosiers and turned lock to lock with the vehicle not moving. A laser point was affixed to the master cylinder to create a base datum point. The box was found to move about 1/4" from lock to lock.

Note that this test was done without the steering box reinforcement plate.
 
On the above video, did that car have a cross support between the upper A arms??? or not....

at any rate 1/4 inch movement is not much, IMO....
 
That kind of movement is just asking for frame fatigue. Anything to beef this up would be an improvement. I've seen truck frames with cracks due to the flex where the steering box mounts to the frame. If I end up with a Borgeson swap at some point, I'll be beefing up the frame mounts in the process.
 
The question is, is the entire frame rail twisting? Is the rail rail "pancaking"?

If I ever do choose to run a Borgeson box, I would like to repeat the same test in a number of conditions:

1) As installed.
2) With spreader bar.
3) As 2), but with steering ram frame hole welded over as per the Power Book.
4) As 3), but with the RideTech reinforcement plate.

1/4" movement should be no problem for the steel the rail is constructed of, but I have concerns about the welds cracking...
 
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I have read all sorts of stories about how these frames can be welded/built up by a steady bead of welding the entire length of the frame rails.....

I have only my own experience to go by, and if the rack works the way I have it mounted with the same essential forces on the frame rail as the Jeep box....

and it hardly moves with the cross support, that came along later in the progression of my project.....I question just how critical these comments are, in reality....slap in a cross support and call it a day....the frames are not GOLD, but jeebus......:surrender::thumbs:
 
The spreader bar will do little to stop the rail twisting or pancaking at the steering box.

Another CF member (danc24) has done the same test as member Ignatz, before and after the installation of the steering box brace.

Before:
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q8uk2WfoBDo[/ame]

After:
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xEehVnQ6OIY[/ame]

The results are actually more significant that I expected. The brace does a really good job of controlling the flex at the steering box.
 
this looks like it is on my winter "to do" list. I have a lot of frame flex. Seems like a good time to pull the box and check the insides as well. It has been on the car some time now and was bought used...
 
Or you could get the adapter from Borgeson that replaces your steering control valve on your drag link.
 
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