C3/4/5 frankenstein frame

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I have fuel lines and starter wires running very close to the headers. The fuel lines are maybe 5/8 inch away from the headers and I have them wrapped with a heat jacket and another layer of DEI heat shield with ceramic backing. That leaves me with about a 1/4 clearance. I like what you did with the titanium shield. I am thinking my main problem will be radiant heat and the titanium might be a way to address that problem. Also my pipes merge at the starter and there is very little clearance between the starter wires and header tubes. I do have a blanket that wraps around the starter but it really does not offer any protection from radiant heat. Maybe a shield there would work?

I would think so, the air gap is important in preventing the transfer of heat. On alot of the newer cars with turbos tucked right up next to electrical components it looks (to me) like they focus more on a good heat shield and distance/airflow than excessive heat wrap on the harnesses.
I assume your fuel system is return style? That should help with heat soak of the line too.

I'm not an expert by any stretch, but the heat stuff you've used (the wrinkly DEI stuff) can be in direct contact and won't have any heat transfer nor does it break down with direct contact. It's pretty amazing stuff, I used to think there was no difference but DEI really stepped up the game and what they make now - I won't use anything else because I hate doing things twice.
 
Chris -

Well not exactly EV, just a few questions on electro-hydraulic pumps you're using.

Doing a quick rewind to some of the posts (180-ish). Is that a Mercedes Pump you installed for the steering? I can't make out the part number, but it has the looks. I'm considering similar, either that or the Porsche 966 version - but they want nearly $200 shipping - so that may tip the deal.

Any feedback on it yet? You are using it to power the Sweet Rack--right? Looks like it plumbed in nicely.

Also, what was your choice of pump for the Hydroboost?

Thanks in advance.

Cheers - Jim

Hey jim- it’s a Mercedes A-class pump from VDO. During my research, this was supposed to be the pump that the Porsche 996 cup cars were using. They then switched to a pump from an opel which looks much more difficult to package in my car. I think mine was about 400$ remanufactured shipped here from across the pond. It is only powering the sweet rack (no hydroboost, manual brakes forever!), which during testing seemed to perform well. I tested it on asphalt as well as my garage floor in an attempt to “torture test” it and it performed well. Quick direction changes like on a tight autocross didnt seem to phase the pump, although a very slight delay could be felt. I imagine that delay wouldnt be noticed if the car was rolling. I took a video in action:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cPV_pjWuA4k&feature=youtu.be
 
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Electro-Hydraulic Steering Pump

Chris - Thanks for that input. I'm nearing "trigger-Pull" on those bits. Just pulled the unused (NOS?) KRC pump off today. Also the Serpentine Water Pump (Reverse flow). Those will soon all be excess to requirements - moving to a Proform electric drive water pump.

CV Axles! ARGGHHH. That was a loong 18 month effort and brought me to a standstill. I admit I think Pappy went the right way as I recall (get DriveLine/Shaft) to build them for you. Time IS money. I did mine a bit at a time; cut down and cryo treated out west - that was 6 months, then the reassemble. I had a buddy that needed some work so let it slide. I think CVs are the right way to go. And I can't top Pappy's claim to IRS fame I'm now on #5 and settling in. In a few days I'll add updates to my thread that has been languishing.

Thanks again!

Cheers - Jim
 
With my car still held up at the fab shop, I get antsy and need a project to keep myself somewhat sane... Im beginning the process of switching from my 6 speed to a 7 speed DCT from a BMW. Depending on when I get the car back, Ill likely run it for a season as-is while I collect parts, but my neighbor who is doing something similar has loaned me his transmission and adapter to take measurements and start the planning process.
It seems like a very cool piece of equipment...
7 speed, 1:1 final drive (low driveshaft speeds)
near instantaneous shifts
electronic clutch pedal for launching or clutch kick
no gear whine or clunky (around town type driving) shifts like a dog box, soft shifting mode at the press of a button
stock form holds around 600hp
My goal is to have this trans and a ~35x cube SB2.2 ready to drop into a sorted chassis next year. Until then, Ill keep dreaming of clicking gears down the back straight at 8k RPM :goodnight:

Heres a video if this trans in action
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WORctA_CKdY[/ame]

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That is going to be cool! Question - Does your EFI throttle body have an integral drive-by-wire throttle drive motor? My Wilson throttle body did not, so I had to adapt a BMW throttle drive motor (firewall mounted) to work through the ECU in conjunction with a Cadillac electronic throttle pedal. Like you, I needed that for the auto-blip for downshifts. I ended up with an RTS 6XD 6-speed sequential.
 
That is going to be cool! Question - Does your EFI throttle body have an integral drive-by-wire throttle drive motor? My Wilson throttle body did not, so I had to adapt a BMW throttle drive motor (firewall mounted) to work through the ECU in conjunction with a Cadillac electronic throttle pedal. Like you, I needed that for the auto-blip for downshifts. I ended up with an RTS 6XD 6-speed sequential.

That RTS is a BAD ass transmission... But the cost is what turned me onto this DCT. The SB2 will be ITB, so Im still trying to figure out what to do for that... There are no (readily available) off the shelf ITB manifolds for this head. (theres actually a used one on ebay right now, but the TB's look too big) Ive been looking at making a manifold that will utilize an OEM throttle body like the BMW s65 throttle bodies, which would be: a) cheap, b) easy to come by, c) already fitted for TPS and DBW. The S65 TB's may be too small though, being designed for an 8400 RPM 4.0L V8. The non definite answer is that they are 54mm bore. Still LOTS to do before I get to that point though.
 
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I understand just a little of what you are describing. I am amazed at how modern OEM vehicle components and aftermarket can me mixed/matched and communicate with each other.

Very cool.
 
cool plan, can't wait to see it happen.

Me too!

I understand just a little of what you are describing. I am amazed at how modern OEM vehicle components and aftermarket can me mixed/matched and communicate with each other.

Very cool.

I can get the hardware side of things going, but I tend to need a lot of help on the computer side :crylol:
 
I did like my Mustang, funny thing is that it was really easy to get in and out of, so when I am too old and fat for the vette i will go for a Mustang again, until then, put one of those in your vette i bet it would be awesome.
 
I understand just a little of what you are describing. I am amazed at how modern OEM vehicle components and aftermarket can me mixed/matched and communicate with each other.

Very cool.

this has become easier... as more manufacturers use the same suppliers, standardization really has been a bonus for the tinkerer.
 
Thanks all! Yes flares in the future... it’s going to be tough to make this rear view as subtle as I want it to be :suspicious:
 
Progress has been a bit slower than hoping for, but the quality of the work is so worth it. some Progress has been made on the cage, the halo And harness bars are welded in. if You’ve ever worn a helmet in a C3 with the r tops on, you know how tight it is… my request Was to make the halo as tight as humanly possible so that I’ve got max clearance from bar to noggin. Came out great in my opinion! This is 1.75x.095
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hopefully some more updates soon!
 
Looks good. Nice job conforming the bar to the top. Interested to see how you will configure the forward windshield supports.
 
Unfortunately no progress on the corvette, still at the fab shop. So I picked up a “quick project” to keep myself sane.
A jersey speed skiff… 16ft boat with a small block Chevy that weighs around 1600lbs. Im sure Bob will remember these running around the shore years ago. They are still active, but not nearly as much. a lot of guys left when they required the roll cages and noise complaints. Mine will be similar to the corvette… an overkill river boat. ;)
this Is one of the faster hull designs, and with a 13:1 compression, solid roller 302, it should creep into the 90mph range should I have the balls to do so
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this is a pretty typical ride in one of these

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oh and the corvette will have a trailer hitch to tow it around, as they can be crane lifted into the water.
 
Absolutely love it!
Thanks, Pappy!
They are cheap to run ( by boating standards!) and talk about an adrenaline rush!
I ran the fun-per-dollar calculations between the skiff and building an SB2.2 with the DCT for the corvette... this came out on top by a longshot.
 
Does look like fun. My first boat was a 16ft with a 150HP Evinrude. 60 MPH in clean water. I used to race bass boats with it.
 
i do remember seeing them, thats a cool project. man its been 15 yrs since i left the shore, i do recall being at a boat club somewhere , i just can not recall what body of water we were overlooking the shrewsbury, manasquan or even it it was further south and they had some race course set up for speed boats. that would be a blast. i might lose my **** at 90 on the water though.
 
In the early 70s I had 13'7", 390# Glaspar G3 that I eventually put a 90 hp Merc on. I didn't even know at the time what I had. Finally sold it it early 2000s - should have kept it. It has become a cult. It was like skipping a flat rock - wherever the momentum was heading was where the boat went, regardless of where the bow was pointed. Towed it behind a 66 Vette. Glaspar G3 2.PNGLOL
 
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