C3/4/5 frankenstein frame

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I tell people to hold their whines, never works... how do you do it? is this one of those things that when I grow up and become a professional that it will happen? :beer:
 
Rough first layer of glass for the wheel tub, and a comparison to the stock drivers side.

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Planning on making some kind of tube to make the Astrovents drain through the top of the new tubs. I also put the rear section of the cage on the chassis for storage. Standing next to it makes me forget how low this car was :bounce:

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I tell people to hold their whines, never works... how do you do it? is this one of those things that when I grow up and become a professional that it will happen? :beer:

All it does is relieve me from feeling bad when the complaints come at me :rain:
 
Firewall primed and painted
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The firewall is the same color as the frame... The body is just about ready to drop on the frame... hopefully sometime this coming week
 
Firewall primed and painted
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The firewall is the same color as the frame... The body is just about ready to drop on the frame... hopefully sometime this coming week

Progress is looking good. :thumbs:

I don't mean to add additional work or annoyance, but would you be able to get a weight on the stock wiper motor if you have a slow moment? Thanks.
 
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Thank you both!


Progress is looking good. :thumbs:

I don't mean to add additional work or annoyance, but would you be able to get a weight on the stock wiper motor if you have a slow moment? Thanks.

No problem! I can tell you already that it's too heavy :rofl:
 
Coming along nicely...

I saw you were looking at an electric pump on another forum-

repost-

A while back I had looked at going with an electric pump- as I don't have any room left on the front of my engine...see below all the info I was able to find.

I ended up getting a Nissan Cube Electric Assist motor and using a Flaming River Manual R&P.

Reading over it-this is the only problem I found with it-



" I have noticed with the 'A' Class that there is a delay of a few seconds before the power steering is active"



A1684660401 operates at 73 bar, or about 1050 psi, according to the label on one I found. That's spot on! I've crossed referenced the Mercedes pump part #'s and they are interchangeable so they must all be pretty much the same.


Corvette pump was designed to limit pump pressure to around 1000 psi.

Corvette pump puts out a controlled flow of around 2.9 gallons per minute




Part numbers
M-B class A Body 168


A1684660601

LH9101000


This guy has lots of info on the steering system of the A class

http://www.aclassinfo.co.uk/mypage.49.htm

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69427-

I've weighted a 71 and 73 wiper motor- a little over 5lbs.

I'm running a newer positive switched motor- Olds- Buick - Pontiac which is also used in the Corvette the exact same motor but costs twice as much!!!

It weighs in 20% less ....at 4lbs

The BOP have a cover that doesn't incorporate a delay- really easy to control with it's two speed motor and no shunt.

original part number is 22072788 then superseded with 88961292

Mounts in stock location with 2 out of three holes lining up

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Excellent info, Richard! The A-class pump was delivered a few days ago... I know it has a delay turning on, but Im hoping there wont be a notable delay for pressure request after its already been on. A friend of mine (DblTrbl on the other vette forums) is an electronics wizard and Ive already mentioned to him about doing some mods to this thing if I find that it has any short comings.
 
......................




69427-

I've weighted a 71 and 73 wiper motor- a little over 5lbs. Thank you.

I'm running a newer positive switched motor- Olds- Buick - Pontiac which is also used in the Corvette the exact same motor but costs twice as much!!!

It weighs in 20% less ....at 4lbs That's directionally desirable.

The BOP have a cover that doesn't incorporate a delay- really easy to control with it's two speed motor and no shunt. Please pardon my ignorance. What shunt item/function is that?

original part number is 22072788 then superseded with 88961292

Mounts in stock location with 2 out of three holes lining up

wiper_motor_6b2126a4b4ed6b1738fcebae5aead5461fc47924.jpg



dscn6590_39cbdb42f1df451cbeb0bf7e58f314505cc57a95.jpg

Can you tell me which BOP models/platforms this wiper motor was used in? I'm planning on pulling the distributor and intake this winter, so this would be a decent time to take advantage of the extra working space to swap out the motor.

Your help here is sincerely appreciated.
:thumbs:
 
Can you tell me which BOP models/platforms this wiper motor was used in? I'm planning on pulling the distributor and intake this winter, so this would be a decent time to take advantage of the extra working space to swap out the motor.

Your help here is sincerely appreciated. :thumbs:

Here look at this eBay listing- has 23 pages of cars that this motor is in!!!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Windshield...h=item33dda645dc:g:hugAAOSwTORblUbT:rk:2:pf:0


The plastic "module" will be different- as some have a delay and others don't. But easily swapable with three screws.

I'm running the wiper base motor but a module/and controls for a mid 90's Caddy with delay/intermittent set up.

But they all use the 6 pin delphi connector

The shunt- or resistor is the 'old' way they controlled the motor speed.

You can see in the pic- motor has three wires- purple-yellow-black. Ground and a wire for each speed- much better- efficient design.

Connector 6 pin A-B-C-D-E-F

High- +12 A-B-F
Low +12 B-C-F
Off +12 C-F (so it will park)

My set-up

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Wiper control in the steering column -replacing ignition switch- wiper chrome trim off a 69 Mustang!
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Excellent info, Richard! The A-class pump was delivered a few days ago... I know it has a delay turning on, but Im hoping there wont be a notable delay for pressure request after its already been on. A friend of mine (DblTrbl on the other vette forums) is an electronics wizard and Ive already mentioned to him about doing some mods to this thing if I find that it has any short comings.

I know who you are talking about....like his build and he's not afraid to think outside the NCRS manual!!!


Really straight forward wiring-

Power- ground and a ignition wire (blue in pic) that MUST be above 12V- otherwise it "sees" an alternator failure and and shuts down the pump.

DSC09701.jpg
 
A major milestone tonight! Looking through my photos, it shows I took the body off on November 30th 2014!! Thankfully I didn't hit 4 whole years :3rd:
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I've got a few places to trim for 100% fitment but otherwise all went fairly smooth! My goal is to have a car that moves under its own power by New Year's Day... back to work!
 
I wish I could say my car was taken apart for only 4 years. I'm thinking more like 10. But there is light at the end of the tunnel. I think I will be able to put the body on the frame next spring.
 
looking good. I could have my car moving under its own power by new years, stopping, though, would be an issue :D

I know Ill get hung up on something so I left the goal pretty vague :crylol:

I wish I could say my car was taken apart for only 4 years. I'm thinking more like 10. But there is light at the end of the tunnel. I think I will be able to put the body on the frame next spring.

Im surrounded by fast/fun classic cars and sports cars every day at work. Its a tease not having my own for 4 years! 10 years though?! That makes me feel a bit better about mine! :drink:

Looking good, Chris. :thumbs:

Wow, very nice!!!

Thank you!

Can you guys see all 4 pictures? photobucket seems to selectively let me post pictures
 
I can see all 4 pictures. You should host them here. Then you are not relying on (the very unreliable) Photobucket.
 
I can see all 4 pictures. You should host them here. Then you are not relying on (the very unreliable) Photobucket.

I would love to, but I take all my pictures with my phone, and if I upload from my phone the VM hosting it says the photos are too large. Unfortunately the photobucket is the simplest way for me right now...
 
Bit more progress tonight... got my masters cut into the firewall and the pedal box mocked up. Also working on the positioning for the oil tank... it's going to be VERY tight with the planned cage routing, oil cooler and all the associated lines. Fingers crossed!
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I plan on cutting the fender "gutter" to allow for oil fill access. The drain is easily accessible underneath as well. I had ports welded on the tank for a level sight, but it's only a clear plastic hose with hose barbs... I'm worried that may fail and dump oil in close proximity to the headers so instead I'm going to see if I can find a low level sensor that will fit and hook it to my existing oil light.
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And the car at rideheight... 26" front fender height and 27" at the rear :cool:

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been making progress, just not able to host my pics anywhere (easily from my phone... working on that though!) Heres a couple that worked from the VM hosting:

335/30/18 mocked up, I know I said I was keeping this chassis under stock fenders, but I may or may not have messed up my total track width measurement :mobeer: According to my chassis build sheet, my tires are 72" outside to outside. 2" flares already on their way, and the subtle widebody idea has already grown on me. (I was going to run the 2" flares out back anyway)

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Cage is almost completed, forward-leaning radiator position and size is mocked up and ready to order, Mercedes electric PS pump is plumbed and fender gill-exit oil cooler is mocked up. Pics coming, I promise!
 
Wow - Where'd ya get those fancy "Ghost" rims?

I'm now looking at the Toyo R888R 335/30/18's for the 'vette too. Been real happy with the r888 on the sports racer. Maybe give up 3-4 seconds a lap (3.7mile course) -- but last 2 seasons.

Cheers - Jim
 
What kind of clearance do you have for deep backspacing? It will probably take 8.5-8.75 inches to get near zero scrub radius. I suspect your front clip has that much clearance built in, but the inner fender panels may be a problem.

Pappy
 
Wow - Where'd ya get those fancy "Ghost" rims?

I'm now looking at the Toyo R888R 335/30/18's for the 'vette too. Been real happy with the r888 on the sports racer. Maybe give up 3-4 seconds a lap (3.7mile course) -- but last 2 seasons.

Cheers - Jim

They are experimental ultra lightweight wheels, Jim :harhar:
Ive heard good reviews with these tires, and they are one of the few that carry the rear size I need as well.

What kind of clearance do you have for deep backspacing? It will probably take 8.5-8.75 inches to get near zero scrub radius. I suspect your front clip has that much clearance built in, but the inner fender panels may be a problem.

Pappy

Ill be trashing the stock inner fenders, one of the reasons being what you mentioned. In these pictures the tire is butted up against the inner fender, so no room for turning or tire squirm as-is. Ron had mentioned an 18x13 with 10" of backspacing but Ill be confirming this with him and using a wheel-fit tool as well.

did you try imgur.com for your pic hosting, it's free.

I havent, ill have to see if they have a phone app to allow for mobile uploads
 
Did a quick search of the thread - couldn't find the answers. So I'll ask.

What is your wheel/tire plan? I note it will be Toyo R888Rs all around --Great choice I think. Obviously, the 335/35R18s were being trial fit up front. What's going on the rear? Are you going with a square setup with 335/18s - or up to the 345/35ZR19? What rims will you be using? Pics of the rims - as time permits. Find any good deals? Any thoughts on getting "blank" custom drilled wheels?

I'm in the market soon will be after the wheels & tires too. Looking at the 18s on rear and maybe down to 17s up front - or else a square setup. You're making great progress. I'm inspired.

Cheers - Jim
 
Forgeline wheels... likely an 18x12.5 in the front and a 19x13 in the rear for a 345/30/19. They have a wheel that looks similar to my BMW wheels that I ran previously. I’m waiting for the flares to come in so I can get the fitment perfect.
 
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