Plastic Fantastic 2

VetteMod - Corvette Restoration, Modding & Performance Forum

Help Support VetteMod Forum:

because the first step is always, take it further apart
FekAUxOh.jpg
time to pull the radiator (the hood wasn't a lot of fun by myself...)
j1ix9bNh.jpg
there will be re-engineering - this bar causes cooling issues because it blocks the normal outlet port
ebeG3IZh.jpg
red light, it works
21ss19fh.jpg
and the crank trigger/wheel is in place
S5syyCbh.jpg
looks like alignment is my next trick
Byyzl0Rh.jpg
that said, it wasn't that great to begin with
gSlL2ulh.jpg
 
Belt alignment or frontend?

View attachment 55905
belt... the steering alignment is fantastic .. that said, this could be better for a number of reasons that will be clear as I go on... that cross bar is in the wrong place; also need to tie the upper arms together... I'm also seriously considering going to an electric water pump. I don't have a lot of trouble with heat at WOT but waiting for the next round of the autox...


time to refit the Corvette radiator. well, the C3 Corvette radiator, the last was from a Z06 and it wasn't enough....
xXysD68h.jpg
ain't going to win any award for the engine compartment... eff em.
64gtVDxh.jpg
I've spent WAY too much time on this.... there isn't a great spot and this has issues with its closeness to the alternator... but if I have to shield it, oh well... see the comment about show portion of life
FTHVCWHh.jpg
that said, I have a lot of respect for a clean engine bay builder... but not enough to spend another year or two on this
SR41cHDh.jpg
first is build brackets
I3LYHs7h.jpg
then tack them to the top of the frame... need to finish weld and paint... but time to move on
gBHSJydh.jpg
and the regulator is installed
J6sTAB9h.jpg
 
they've got individual computers and cooling fins for them


the $400 plug
FAST doesn't include the other half of this plug with their kit.... fyi.
r8UP3xah.jpg

reality is it's about $90 ($10 for plug, $70 for "should work" crimper, plus tax and transport).... but still, a little frustrating if you don't know
 
they've got individual computers and cooling fins for them


the $400 plug
FAST doesn't include the other half of this plug with their kit.... fyi.
View attachment 55918

reality is it's about $90 ($10 for plug, $70 for "should work" crimper, plus tax and transport).... but still, a little frustrating if you don't know

I don't know how much I have invested in wire crimp tools. Some useful, some not.
 
more wiring pictures
the mess
LHGWWi5h.jpg
now looking better
H5nWNLRh.jpg
details
OYClc7Ih.jpg
UI5LfJ3h.jpg
sometimes the cheapest tool works best
bRVtoVWh.jpg
I still have a lot to hook up but it's getting there
 
more wiring... think I need yet another plug... this is getting ridiculous
instructions not clear, saved, though, by Youtube
JrmC623h.jpg
this plug is the one that you need to hook the coils up to... it's on the computer - not engine compartment. Makes sense, but the instructions do not
add to complexity that some things were labeled and these were labeled backwards
nYGCLbTh.jpg
the back of the plug, you need to remove most of these white plugs
9gaNfXCh.jpg
and then tap the black and yellow wires from both plugs to this wire...
4ppULHuh.jpg
 
My main problem with Holley is they have the weirdest software architecture for any product I haver ever used. 6 different ways to save a file without acknowlegement of saving to ECU or computer or both. Key cycling for some unknown reason used to set parameters, etc.

Maybe if they would explain what the objective of these things are, it would be a little more clear. Or, make it work like ALL software works.
 
Maybe I just have a learning disability but I have a hard time understanding instructions for something unless I understand what it does and why I am doing it.
 
had a similar conversation with the guy who turns the wrenches on Big Red Itoday)... but, being able to run 12:1 compression on a street BBC and only use 92 octane....
the other benefit is the smack down when I do get it running right against the LS powered rigs....

and for those who don't know, you know how Wayne's world when they say "we're not worthy" to Alice Cooper, that times a billion. Big Red IS the car that set me to dreaming what is now the PF2.
 
That is some kind of black magic there to get 12:1 on a street BBC. You hear about them, but you assume there must be some wizardry involved. Big Red has been the inspiration for MANY and rightfully so. Craftsmanship AND wizardry ;-)
 
That is some kind of black magic there to get 12:1 on a street BBC. You hear about them, but you assume there must be some wizardry involved. Big Red has been the inspiration for MANY and rightfully so. Craftsmanship AND wizardry ;-)
it's not magic on a short stroke. heck, GM was doing it with points. Static compression is just one measure of the motor, not just that but gear ratio, transmission type and weight also are influencers as to whether or not it can be done.

is the planned 555 going to be that much? I don't know yet, but there's a lot of math and working with wizards before I commit to any hard parts. I don't even know if it's possible with a stock block.... 555 was the suggestion from Big Red's mechanic - now comes the hardest part to see what it takes to do this. As an aside in that, HRM did a 540 build where they made 700 hp.... and they've also made 700 hp out of a 454 motorhome motor.... to me, I'd be solidly disappointed to build 100 more cubic inches for the same hp.... especially given the costly parts to make the 2nd happen

the funnest part of all of this is that it makes the TKX (trans) a very expensive fuse - so any build is going to look at the 10k cost for a new trans.... point being - this is something that takes years to save for and execute.... so this is just bench racing for now.
 
Last edited:
If you want to delay the 10k transmission, keep watching FB marketplace. I see a continuous stream of new/nearly new autogear m22 or m23 supercase transmissions. 2500-4000 depending on whether they have a long shifter. Supposedly good for 700hp.

gforce transmissions are up nearly 50%, which is kind of depressing.


edit: Autogears site is down, but their FB page is active. This has reviews from 2022, but a good price for clutchless.
https://midwestmuncie.com/product/m...-super-case-4-speed-drag-racing-rock-crusher/
 
Last edited:
If you want to delay the 10k transmission, keep watching FB marketplace. I see a continuous stream of new/nearly new autogear m22 or m23 supercase transmissions. 2500-4000 depending on whether they have a long shifter. Supposedly good for 700hp.

gforce transmissions are up nearly 50%, which is kind of depressing.


edit: Autogears site is down, but their FB page is active. This has reviews from 2022, but a good price for clutchless.
https://midwestmuncie.com/product/m...-super-case-4-speed-drag-racing-rock-crusher/
I know so little about them.... that said, my plate is full this year - so I can spend ample time researching them. I like to save money, but my experience on saving money is I never do. Most times it's painful the amount over what I'd have spent if I'd just started with manufacturer.... trying to get wise while getting old....
 
I hear you.

Well, I bought one of their m22’s in 2004 and drove the car around Orlando for 10 years. Only 500hp, but 4:56 and 4:11 gears with wide tires with no issues. But, with their website shut down there may be business issues.

The place mfain bought his sequential sells gforce, and some of their prices shot up. Like every thing else I guess.

If this clutchess is still available I might be tempted.
 
As we all know, I LOVE wiring. Read that again. That is a lie. So what do I buy at SEMA? more wiring
fF28pTxh.jpg
this isn't complaining, just explaining. I run by myself - no tire temp checkers, no pit crew, it's me. And at SEMA, I saw something that I think will be the utter cat's pjs for me. It gives me 120 degrees of temperature (real time). so with one sensor, I can monitor brake temp and tire temps. But wait, there's more. It also monitors tire pressure.
8hUo4wih.jpg
I really think it will be a game changer for me.
display screen it also blue-tooth connects to apple or android.
baYUkW3h.jpg
basically, it mounts above the wheel (on the inside, vertically) and gives me a reading across 120 degrees. Did I mention that it also tells me how far the suspension is traveling?
not cheap but invaluable for someone like me.
anBW6Pyh.jpg
and yes, I thought a bit about sharing - why help competitors? well, here's the reason, I like the Australians who make this. I want them to win (small, son and dad business)....

so I'll wire a bit more. And mount it so that I can move it between cars... the tire pressure monitors screw onto the air fill.... which means I could use it on my 4x4 too
 
took awhile to realize why I couldn't find the paperwork on this.... I stole it from the Fiat
7eKAiEgh.jpg
and things are getting serious
sQfqjkkh.jpg
how does one enjoy wiring?
8lxuAP4h.jpg
gFqq1PEh.jpg
 
Good on 'YA Mate! I'm not far enough along. Although I prodded Shaun about a Black Friday/Cyber Sale. He said more details when they get home he'd sort it out.
Should be today/tomorrow. before they'll be ready to do any good. I've made that 24 hour sortie both ways for nearly 20 years. It is a drag - even in first class!

Are those turtles the aluminum (alloy) versions? I assume the Black Ones are ptfe or? No doubt you had a chat with them at purchase. Drop me a note if anything to share.

Cheers - Jim
 
they're aluminum. About my only 'concern' is the caps.... I should have asked for the internal sensors for the TPS.
there is competition for their product but it costs 3x more, has much less angle of coverage, and is missing features.
Shaun is in Canada visiting relatives - told him to wave as he flew over, pretty sure he didn't ;)

love wiring....
j0vDeeIh.jpg
I feel like this is an accomplishment because I spent quality time trying to figure out what goes where.... may still have it wrong, but I feel good about it
9cIWiiXh.jpg
 
wow that looks great and is certainly a lot of wires to keep straight. i am not sure i could follow it all
 
To get the larger radiator in, I need to remove this piece
PHj4o77h.jpg
it was useful for the original build, but I'm going to move where it lands and add to the area in front so I can install tow hooks
J9fdvZbh.jpg
amazing how much there is on my list.... but getting there
WGavKpZh.jpg
a reminder to call FiTech tomorrow. Apparently, this one won't work (so I was told)... replacement is supposed to be free - so hopefully I can put done on the throttle
usP38oLh.jpg
about the hardest part of this was soldering stuff together - most was pretty much plug and play but not this time... 4 into 1 wiring
qV19whXh.jpg
fine wiring... done
eRyG2Rkh.jpg

I don't get it, it's like I do wiring and everything blows up. I have a short in the shop, working on the welder on the '40, doing the Corvette, and the Blazer is just one large wiring project itself.... then this went down
GWZ7EAhh.jpg
bit of solder and it was fixed but those high impedance air gaps will get your every time
 
wow that looks great and is certainly a lot of wires to keep straight. i am not sure i could follow it all
it's a lot but it's not the worst - the worst will be the 50 sedanet. I know it's weird that wiring harnesses for twin turbo, port injected, crank fired 430 Buicks isn't an off-the-shelf.... but alas, it's not. But, this gives you a glimpse of the steps I'm taking to be successful when I get to the penultimate car.
 
oooo shiny baubles. I like shiny things
jAbje1W.jpg
remove the old
dzruv0vh.jpg
seal some bolts
PeqGOvOh.jpg
spray some sealant
rp4H3GXh.jpg
and install
GlFdDw7h.jpg
the disaster that was the space behind the manifold is starting to look better
veuq77t.jpg
not perfect, but closer
3LvOo5Fh.jpg
talking to FiTech and holley - they suggested just doing deadhead runs to the rails. I can't do it. too many air locks on diesels so with a couple 45 degree fittings and some tube
DoGV2JOh.jpg
and the cross over is built
4ST54yR.jpg
radiator still fits, bonus
8rkVk5Uh.jpg

the next step is more wiring work - I'm going to move the 2nd fuse block and relay block. Apparently, someone thought the red strip on the back of the motor was how I wired.... so I'll make it go away and add a box where they can be assured it was done right then and now. That said, I hate the individual fuse holders - they were there for convenience, time for them to go
 
Might need to check the alternator output curve. Especially when it gets hot.
I've the same electric water pump installed and am starting to add up the alternator requirements.
I hope it helps the overheating challenge. I was worried about the same thing.

I believe the trade off in HP loss from fans and pumps (water, power steering, brakes, etc..) to alternator is almost a wash.

Cheers - Jim
 
Last edited:
Might need to check the alternator output curve. Especially when it gets hot.
I've the same electric water pump installed and am starting to add up the alternator requirements.
I hope it helps the overheating challenge. I was worried about the same thing.

I believe the trade off in HP loss from fans and pumps (water, power steering, brakes, etc..) to alternator is almost a wash.

Cheers - Jim
will do. at full song, the fuel pump, water pump, and fans alone take 51 amps (not starting amps, running amps). I'm considering getting a brushless Spal fan which would reduce that number by 12 and allow use of a ramp up feature in the Terminator X.

and I'm doing this for the flexibility to run cooling with the motor off - and to that effort, I'll add a second battery (if necessary). I'm hoping the 1/3 increase in cooling from the larger radiator is enough but that's plan d (or whatever letter I'm on now). According to my calculations, I can run the fans/pump for 1 1/2 hours and still start the car with what I have now.... but remember how much I dislike electrical work? I suspect my own calculations.
 
Back
Top