Wierd wear pattern

big2bird

big2bird

Charter Member, Founder Bird-Run, Cruise-In Bird-R
Joined
Mar 5, 2008
Messages
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Location
Anaheim, Ca.
So I fixed my exhaust leak, installed a new pow steer control valve, greased the front end, and found this. I expect it is the cause of my brake squel in the right front. 35032f1026ab2a.jpg
The pads are wearing quite cocked on the right front. Drivers side is fine. Stock calipers/pistons/brake pads. Nothing special.
Theories?
I probably knew this once, but cannot remember for the life of me.
 
Seen it a LOT over the years, and guess what?? I flipped the pads, last time I seen it....so far so good....I mean on same caliper, swapped the pads around....

shit if I know, but after a few brisk stops, they same as normal....wear in like new....

:shocking::clap:
 
you may be getting a slight amount of taper. It's a bit deceptive as the pad extends just a tad over the edge of the rotor. Not a big deal.
 
I'll let it go. They have 17,000 miles on them. At 30,000 miles, I'll pop for the Wilwoods. WTH.:D
 
Flimsy caliper bracket + wobbly pistons + loose fitting pad = taper.. In other words ... junk design. Now you get the racers support bracket

Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk
 
Taper of brake pads starting at the leading edge is totally normal and expected under harder and hotter use.
I find it on most brakes of any vehicle I see.
Nothing at all to worry about, just replace before rotor gouging.

That is why the calipers on the zr1 are 6 piston different sized, with the smallest at the leading edge, supplying less pressure to compensate.
Supposedly, other benefits are higher pedal and better feedback.
 
Then why pass side, and not drivers?:fishing:
Run out is .001" BTW. All corners.
 
I remember Van Steel posting that they frequently see bent caliper brackets when they do brake jobs. So what would bend the caliper bracket?!
 
I quickly read the other thread/link, one guy nailed it pretty quick, IMO, and was ignored....the rubber brake lines...O ring calipers are far superior to the lip design, and toss those silly piston springs....that design belongs in a engine to keep the pistons going up and down, not a brake caliper....:harhar:

another thing, any rotor not finished correctly after being ground will cause the pads to run up/down on the circumference.....because the resurfacing causes it to be like a old phonograph record, and so the pads are like a old needle skipping the groove....WHICH is why I don't grind/resurface rotors....AND of course as the pads move in/out concentrically they are fighting the pins, and so cocking the pistons in the bore, which will eventually mar the finish on even the stainless.....

Bent mounting brackets?? really?? near 1/4 inch steel? check that quick as hell, just LOOK at it with caliper in place and maybe pads on there too, it either looks parallel or NOT, jeebus....

as for the booster, well I Know the truth there, all else can go to hell.....


:smash::thankyou:
 
Last edited:
big2bird said:
mrvette said:
I quickly read the other thread/link, one guy nailed it pretty quick, IMO, and was ignored....the rubber brake lines...
Click to expand...

I have SS braided hoses Gene.:harhar:
Click to expand...

I dunno jack about them, except they look pretty.....honestly, the rubber lines been around for decades or better....they can't be seen on my car, and second off, you know, in about a dozen cars over 50 years, I have changed maybe 6 brake hoses....4 of them on this vette.....ONE hung up years ago, not long after the HB (GOD forbid) conversion...and so I replaced them all and the two front rotors also....been perfect since, knock on wood....:eek:
 
mrvette said:
big2bird said:
mrvette said:
I quickly read the other thread/link, one guy nailed it pretty quick, IMO, and was ignored....the rubber brake lines...
Click to expand...

I have SS braided hoses Gene.:harhar:
Click to expand...

I dunno jack about them, except they look pretty.....honestly, the rubber lines been around for decades or better....they can't be seen on my car, and second off, you know, in about a dozen cars over 50 years, I have changed maybe 6 brake hoses....4 of them on this vette.....ONE hung up years ago, not long after the HB (GOD forbid) conversion...and so I replaced them all and the two front rotors also....been perfect since, knock on wood....:eek:
Click to expand...

Rubber brake hoses are date stamped. You should change them after 10 years.
 
big2bird said:
mrvette said:
big2bird said:
mrvette said:
I quickly read the other thread/link, one guy nailed it pretty quick, IMO, and was ignored....the rubber brake lines...
Click to expand...

I have SS braided hoses Gene.:harhar:
Click to expand...

I dunno jack about them, except they look pretty.....honestly, the rubber lines been around for decades or better....they can't be seen on my car, and second off, you know, in about a dozen cars over 50 years, I have changed maybe 6 brake hoses....4 of them on this vette.....ONE hung up years ago, not long after the HB (GOD forbid) conversion...and so I replaced them all and the two front rotors also....been perfect since, knock on wood....:eek:
Click to expand...

Rubber brake hoses are date stamped. You should change them after 10 years.
Click to expand...

4 more to go, I be dead by then....:fishing:
 
mrvette said:
I quickly read the other thread/link, one guy nailed it pretty quick, IMO, and was ignored....the rubber brake lines...O ring calipers are far superior to the lip design, and toss those silly piston springs....that design belongs in a engine to keep the pistons going up and down, not a brake caliper....:harhar:

another thing, any rotor not finished correctly after being ground will cause the pads to run up/down on the circumference.....because the resurfacing causes it to be like a old phonograph record, and so the pads are like a old needle skipping the groove....WHICH is why I don't grind/resurface rotors....AND of course as the pads move in/out concentrically they are fighting the pins, and so cocking the pistons in the bore, which will eventually mar the finish on even the stainless.....

Bent mounting brackets?? really?? near 1/4 inch steel? check that quick as hell, just LOOK at it with caliper in place and maybe pads on there too, it either looks parallel or NOT, jeebus....

as for the booster, well I Know the truth there, all else can go to hell.....


:smash::thankyou:
Click to expand...
New pads and O ring callipers, new rotors and ss braided lines were all installed together. It was a long time ago but I did not expect to see that kind of wear.

Apologies to OP. Do not mean to steal the thread.
 
Sky65 said:
mrvette said:
I quickly read the other thread/link, one guy nailed it pretty quick, IMO, and was ignored....the rubber brake lines...O ring calipers are far superior to the lip design, and toss those silly piston springs....that design belongs in a engine to keep the pistons going up and down, not a brake caliper....:harhar:

another thing, any rotor not finished correctly after being ground will cause the pads to run up/down on the circumference.....because the resurfacing causes it to be like a old phonograph record, and so the pads are like a old needle skipping the groove....WHICH is why I don't grind/resurface rotors....AND of course as the pads move in/out concentrically they are fighting the pins, and so cocking the pistons in the bore, which will eventually mar the finish on even the stainless.....

Bent mounting brackets?? really?? near 1/4 inch steel? check that quick as hell, just LOOK at it with caliper in place and maybe pads on there too, it either looks parallel or NOT, jeebus....

as for the booster, well I Know the truth there, all else can go to hell.....


:smash::thankyou:
Click to expand...
New pads and O ring callipers, new rotors and ss braided lines were all installed together. It was a long time ago but I did not expect to see that kind of wear.

Apologies to OP. Do not mean to steal the thread.
Click to expand...

N.P. We seem to have done the same/surprised by the same thing. I think I'll just let it go, and install the stock Wilwoods when this goes south. Should last another 15,000 miles or so. That's awhile on this car.
 
big2bird said:
Sky65 said:
mrvette said:
I quickly read the other thread/link, one guy nailed it pretty quick, IMO, and was ignored....the rubber brake lines...O ring calipers are far superior to the lip design, and toss those silly piston springs....that design belongs in a engine to keep the pistons going up and down, not a brake caliper....:harhar:

another thing, any rotor not finished correctly after being ground will cause the pads to run up/down on the circumference.....because the resurfacing causes it to be like a old phonograph record, and so the pads are like a old needle skipping the groove....WHICH is why I don't grind/resurface rotors....AND of course as the pads move in/out concentrically they are fighting the pins, and so cocking the pistons in the bore, which will eventually mar the finish on even the stainless.....

Bent mounting brackets?? really?? near 1/4 inch steel? check that quick as hell, just LOOK at it with caliper in place and maybe pads on there too, it either looks parallel or NOT, jeebus....

as for the booster, well I Know the truth there, all else can go to hell.....


:smash::thankyou:
Click to expand...
New pads and O ring callipers, new rotors and ss braided lines were all installed together. It was a long time ago but I did not expect to see that kind of wear.

Apologies to OP. Do not mean to steal the thread.
Click to expand...

N.P. We seem to have done the same/surprised by the same thing. I think I'll just let it go, and install the stock Wilwoods when this goes south. Should last another 15,000 miles or so. That's awhile on this car.
Click to expand...
Funny you mention Wilwood. Just got mine on last weekend. :thumbs:
http://www.vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8362&page=6
 
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