why does GM do this stupid ****?

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redvetracr

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thanks GM engineers for another piss poor design....my problem is the batwing/trailing arms, how in the hell do you get those ****** little metric bolts that hold the u-joint straps off? I have some that came rounded off and am looking for the "trick" to get them out. the diff & t-arms are out of the car (actually there is no car just parts) thanks in advance.

PS: have a ton of stuff from an 80 4spd car if anyone is looking for anything...
 
Since the parts aren't under a car, can you grind/cut the rounded heads off the bolts so you can slide the half shafts off? Then you should have enough of the bolt left to grab and pull out. Another thought would be to drill a hole in the top of each and use a screw extractor. It's a pain either way!
 
If you mean the ujoint straps they are 1/4 in. 12 point.

anti tampering LOL. They are inverse torx

EVERY time I see that stupid ****, I just cut a screwdriver slot with a grinder OR use vice grips on it, or heat,

reminds me of the 12 point 3/8 -16 bolts olde tyme Pontiacs used on their fuel pumps for some stupid reason....I STILL have my special Pontiac fule pump socket...unused for decades, but there it IS!!!!

almost the oldest tool in the box, except my 9/16 shallow well 3/8 drive socket.....


:smash::smash::surrender::thumbs:

I going to start a thread on that topic.....:fishing:
 
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Those stupid ******* inverse torx suck. Just another tool you have to buy with no advantages over existing fasteners. My original ones are at the bottom of a lake somewhere. I installed allens to replace them years ago.
 
No need for torx socket when 12 pt 1/4 will work fine. I use 1/4 in drive for clearance and on pinion use a couple of extensions to get past diff mount.
 
Is it a surprise GM is broke, they think bailouts will magically save them. Problem is nobody has money to buy cars and this economy will get worse and they will go under, it is just a matter of time.
 
No need for torx socket when 12 pt 1/4 will work fine. I use 1/4 in drive for clearance and on pinion use a couple of extensions to get past diff mount.

Maybe, but if the bolts were tightened beyond specs or maybe rusted in a bit, probably not. Besides, I think he's talking about the yokes on the half shafts, which are the inverted torx bits. The pinion yokes are conventional 12 point 1/4, but I don't think that's what the OP is referring to.
 
I did these U-joints a couple of months ago, and did not have a wrench this small in SAE, so ordered one 1/4" boxwrench, which did the trick without any problem.

I fail to see why the topic starter is making so much fuss about it and even refers to metric bolts, while they are the common [for the USA] 1/4"screws.
It looks like he is calling the GM engineers names for the lack of his own capabilities :noworry:
Cor
 
Wow, way to call out a long term member when you're not even sure what he's talking about, n00b.
I'm with Red on this one, and I don't think you're on the same page. The strap bolts he's talking about are for the halfshafts, and they are not conventional 1/4" 12pt bolts. They're those ****** inverse Torx that have no good excuse for existing. Solution to a problem that didn't exist.
 
The strapbolts that I am talking about are for the halfshafts, and I did mine with a standard 12 point 1/4" box wrench.
No problem at all for a n00b :)
 
I been tossing oddball crap fasteners for so long I don't even bother looking anymore.....

the one thing GM engineering will never live down is the way they hold timing chain cover lower/oil pan seals in place on the SBC.....the old Pontiacs did it SO much better, I would THINK when retooling for the later Gen2 roller block..they would have at LEAST retooled that stupid design flaw.......:hissyfit:
 
Unlikely that this is the case, as these bolts are present on all four joints on both halfshafts, and also on the propellorshaft.

But for me this discussion is now closed, as your attitude seems to be that a n00b got to be wrong and does not know what he is talking about :zzz:
 
I did these U-joints a couple of months ago, and did not have a wrench this small in SAE, so ordered one 1/4" boxwrench, which did the trick without any problem.

I fail to see why the topic starter is making so much fuss about it and even refers to metric bolts, while they are the common [for the USA] 1/4"screws.
It looks like he is calling the GM engineers names for the lack of his own capabilities :noworry:
Cor

If you back up the buss, you'll notice he said "The heads are rounded off, and are stuck."
I did not see one answer in this thread.:huh:
 
Unlikely that this is the case, as these bolts are present on all four joints on both halfshafts, and also on the propellorshaft.

But for me this discussion is now closed, as your attitude seems to be that a n00b got to be wrong and does not know what he is talking about :zzz:

That will work well both ways as you have, 1) proven your car is not as it left the factory, and 2) you want to take shots at someone without knowing the facts.
The factory bolts for the driveshaft (propeller shaft) are 12pt bolts, as you stated. However, the bolts on the halfshaft assemblies are a larger 6pt inverse Torx. If your car does not have this arrangement, it has been previously "fixed" by someone else like Red, fixing stupid **** the GM engineers did.
Either way, it doesn't change the fact that GM decided to solve a problem that wasn't there by creating an uncommon fastener that offers no improvement over currently available fasteners. It may have been the idea that they can get the average guy to go back to the stealership instead of doing their own work, but it rarely works that way. Instead, you get what Red has now, some backyard monkey who's hammered a socket onto those craptastic bolts trying to get them off. When they are successful, they end up just hammering the socket back on to reinstall the same crappy bolts. When not, they generally screw every one of them up trying to get them off so later on the next owner has mangled fasteners to deal with.
 
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