Redoing that old Camaro

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I had the same prob with the TPIS IAC housing not fitting my aftermarket throttle body too.
 
Did some more. Fixed the rust holes in front of the door and redid the seams there and to the front (inner fender)

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This will be my elbow hookup, have to fab the elbow and weld it to this plate.
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Painted the cowl area and reinstalled the cowl screen and wipers
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Wired up this harness with a tail light converter to get 4 red stop/turn lights. It works fine, until you press the brakes w/ the turn lights on and then it freezes on the side that should blink. This stupid chinese POS is fubar. I'll do it the old fashion way with 3 NC relays pulling 12V off the battery and using the signals just to switch. A little more wiring but I refuse to waste money on crap like this again.

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fixed the other side rust, sealed the seams and put bedliner over the entire areas on both sides so it doesn't show as badly that it was repaired and it's now weatherproof.

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The rear storage lid does actually close right, I had to guess where the brackets went as I don't have any reference here. Worked out fine :)

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Put the carpet back in, it's starting to look like a car again

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I also put a micro switch on the pulldown motor so if someone pops the lock and the trunk opens the alarm will go off. You can see the micro switch on the drivers side next to the nylon linered guide rail. Pressing the 3rd button on my fob will also pop the trunk. LOL it's almost a luxury car ;)


biggest bummer of the day.... that damned Hawks Thirdgen high rise spoiler is crooked. I didn't notice before because the car was on the lift w/ the back close to the workbench. Now that I had it in the clear and stepped away from it I saw it immediately. It stands out like a sore thumb :( it's completely unusable, it looks like SH!T!!!!!!!! I contacted hawks, I hope they work with me to make it right as it not only cost a small fortune, shipping was murder too!

See how the drivers side curves off to the rear
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Not a happy camper right now!

Fabbed a little mount for the retard box, decided to stick it behind the bumper. not much room in the engine and I didn't want a bulky bracket. I also need the space for some reservoirs and a water to air intercooler

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Installed a good chunk of the interior including the nice carpeted console I got from 3rdgenranch (amongst a whole bunch of other parts)

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Put together this box, it's missing 1 nc relay, came 1 short so only 1 indicator is working but I'll have a full set tomorrow. This box converts the stock amber turn/red brake lights into 2 turn/brake lights, painted the lenses to suit. Never liked the amber.

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W/ lid on, also missing 8 pin connector body, also coming tomorrow (hopefully)
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All red vs stock, I like the reds a lot better.
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A vid of it working (blinkers on but vid may not have processed right now)
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v5OksxvUW8w[/ame]

Still have to sort out the crank pulley, waiting on some missing bits of the fuel system and still have to mod the cooling system/radiator and hook up the power steering pump.

Been busy w/ the 82 trans am and some other stuff so didn't get a whole lot done.

I did fabricate a small bracket for the power steering reservoir

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Added cold air ducting to the SC air filter. Not sure I'm 100% satisfied with it as it is, I'd rather have it rotated to the underside of the filter. Will have to check if there is room. the black piece is simply fabricated from some rolled alu sheet and a 3" alu tube.

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Removed it, came to the conclusion that it's an eyesore

I got some sh!t done ... not much but still LOL
My main problem was the crank pulley, the stock one I couldn't use because of the fat belt conversion, a stock serpentine one was too large since i use small pulleys on the wp, so I had to get an underdrive one. Did I mention those are cheaply made Chinese POS things? Damn, what a poor quality. There's chips and craters in them and they wobble too.

Main problem, it's too long, needs 12mm removed to move the grooves back that amount. What to do? I need it to go together wobble free so on the lathe a section was removed and then the last section on both ends was stepped so they interlock, the 2 halves were pressed together and then tig welded (ran out of gas about 90% there on the inside, will have to finish it up after I get me some new gas)
The pulley also lacked the centric recess for the spacer and I didn't want to do without that. The spacer of course was too long too so that one was milled down also

Pulley halves after machining, pressed back together. Took out 12mm.
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Centric section machined in
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A little welding
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On the inside too...the setup w/ the bolt is my quicky rotating fixture for easier welding
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With the spacer and SC pulley
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it all lines up perfectly now. After welding that last bit it's going to be blasted and powdercoated black again.

Also mounted dial knob for crane retard and a bracket for a 2 bar map sensor
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Got my pulley back from the powdercoater and put it together.. it fits like a glove. I'm pretty pleased with the result, small pulleys, plenty of space, looks a ton better than the horrible stock flat belt/v belt combo. It should run a lot better too, no squealing belts anymore. It's a tight fit in there with the KRC power steering pump. With the under-driven crank pulley the WP is still a little overdriven but only a smidgen.

It all lines up straight as an arrow. Now the wait is for my intercooler and bypass valve along with some other neat stuff so I can get moving on this thing again. Been too long w/ too little progress.

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I managed to get the radiator setup done, modified and welded the rad to fit a short -20 AN hose.

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Also had to mod the rad mount, came out ok

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Finished my trans cooler setup, used flex lines from tranny to a bulkhead, then hard lines and then flex lines to a remote filter setup and the cooler. Still need to add lower brackets to the cooler.

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Got more done. The exhaust is done but the last pics all came out bad (camera shot, diaphragm sticking), it exists under the drivers side door now LOL

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O2 sensor extension so harness doesn't burn on exhaust

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Pulleys all fit and line out perfectly, for a mis match/cut up and weld set it came out excellent :) It's a tight fit but it fits and that's what matters

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I'll be using these seats, they're the best seats I ever sat in
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exhaust done
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also got my intercooler, bypass valve and a bunch of other parts:

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that's going to fit nicely.
 
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Some more done, fabbed a mounting face for 3 gauges to go where the radio was. The power and illuminatiion for the gauges is pulled off the radio harness so no loose wires or scotch blocks anywhere. I like my wiring clean.

I have 3 gauges but decided that the wideband commander 2 has to go on the a pillar because the gauge doesn't match the other 2. I'll get an oil temp gauge instead and wire it w a switch so I can switch between engine and tranny temp.

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This is going to be my filler cap. Needs a custom ring machined and some cutting & welding to the quarter panel.

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Got the valve covers on. Took a bit of modifying to fit. These are the only covers I have that fit without hitting the rockers or guide plates. i did have to trim the manifold side inside edge of the covers to get them to sit square, they were hitting the guideplates. Also had to notch the dr. side to be able to move it under the washer pump and not break off the pump pipe

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Mounted the 2 bar map sensor here (it's for the boost retard):

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Wrapped the exhaust pipe that runs past the sump & starter

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and..it's running :D :D still NA as I don't have the intercooler piping finished yet but still, it's a big step that it at least runs :)

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-KOpmXbppjc[/ame]
 
I'll be able to drive it today, bleeding the brakes is all it needs.. who needs sheet metal :D
 
Well, it runs under it's own power :) still NA taking it a bit easy, only 1/4 or so throttle since nothing is dialed in and it still goes a tad lean on the WBO2 w/ 30# injectors @ 55psi at that throttle setting.

The neighbors loved it ahum ;)

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kI8gCyji0ZQ[/ame]
 
Jeff, yes the hood should close. The fitting doesn't stick up that much...in either case it's nothing a little notching the hood won't fix
 
Fabbed a little reservoir to be hooked up to the SC inlet side for crankcase evacuation, an evac line is running to the pass side VC. Need to put a cap on the reservoir, it's there to inspect if there's excess oil in there.

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and since it's now moving under it's own power, brakes all bled, fays 2 watts linkage dialed in I did some driving around and shot a pic w/ it's brother ;)

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Having 2nd thoughts about the wheels. A buddy of mine showed me some wheels and I think they might go better with the car overall. If I tint the windows (side & rear) replace the silver iroc decals w/ black ones and maybe keep the black lower stripe it would look awesome with all the other black stuff like the hood inserts, the door handles, the interior, the front grille openings & headlamp buckets and so on..... hmmmm

quick photoshop

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I fabricated a mount for the intercooler today. Since I hate drilling holes I used the factory support bracket between the fender and front lower frame rail and a hole that was once used for an AC line.

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I made a quicky rod ended bar to stabilize the setup. Didn't have the material for a threaded sleeve so I welded some nuts to a piece of solid round bar for now. Will replace it with something proper later on

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It's all real tight over the valve cover. A little foam helps it from scratching/rattling. Good thing I have solid motor mounts and nothing moves there

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Now all I need is a custom super short MAF and an elbow to the TB and the other side of the piping fabbed.

This is a neat and tight package like this.

Fits like a glove, just needs a reducer to hook the 2 together. I may stick a custom maf inside the elbow since I want it between the cooler and the TB

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installed a 3rd gauge
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and then realized I forgot to put a bung in the pan for a mech gauge and the canton adapter that I had apparently is for an LT1...oops!!

I hope this will do the trick. Made this adapter, the mech gauge bulb screws in the brass end.
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Also hooked up the crank case ventilation to the suction side of the SC. The can is an oil seperator to keep oil out of the SC.
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This is my finished oil temp bulb setup and it works like a champ. The exhaust protects it from getting ripped right off

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Also finished the lower support rods for the tranny cooler, this keeps it from flopping around and hammering against the tank straps

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I made them from round stock and welded tabs to the end, looks pretty oem compared to the other braces on the car w/ the stamped flats

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Again I used factory holed on the rear tub, these are the ones originally for the muffler heat shield

Well, turned out my alt was sticking up too far and interfering with the ducting from IC to TB, had to modify the linkage so I could swing it further inboard and down. This little alu adapter piece did the trick

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Also, the edelbrock STB still fits! woohoo! That's a big bonus, I was already thinking I had to fab something myself.

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It's tight but with solid motor mounts and the IC mounted solid, nothing is going to move

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I finished welding an extension/adapter ring to the elbow so I can more easily slip the coupler over it. It also needed it because it was too short. Helps pull the intercooler straight too, I tossed the rod ended link, not needed now. Much cleaner Eventually I'll probably weld the elbow to the TB front adapter.

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Stop it already, your making me feel lazy:wink:

Nice job and nice fab work, I'm so jealous of your skills. I'm working on fabbing a rad support like you did but I don't have the dimple dies, so I'll have to see what I can rig to make something similar.
 
Nice work - now make sure everything is ready for a test drive when I get there.... :thumbs::):rain::twitch:
 
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