Plastic Fantastic 2

[SuperBuickGuy]

What you have is bad roll couple. Either spring rates front to back are off or roll bars are not matched. Try a 15/16" roll bar in front with no bar in the rear. F41 springs in front and back should get you in the ball park. I have some old F41 front springs if you want them. Sell them cheap.

thanks, but the suspension is from a C5 Corvette in the front and a 5th gen Camaro in the rear.

 

[phantomjock]

Nice new Avitar!

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Nice new Avitar!

Just some junky C3 I found while browsing the 'net.

 

[69427]

thanks, but the suspension is from a C5 Corvette in the front and a 5th gen Camaro in the rear.

Are you happy/comfortable with the toe control geometry of the Camaro suspension?
I had an exact opposite issue (understeer/difficulty getting the car to rotate in the turns) with my car, I changed the length/position of the rear toe links, and got the neutral handling I was looking for.

As always, YMMV.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

life is better with video

https://imgur.com/mOjlPbU

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

if nothing else, at least it got my rear tires warmer.... 2 choices, either the rumble strip upset the apple cart or there was something on the track....

 

[phantomjock]

Let's try this version:


Sorry about chopping too much on the bottom - th eblack bar obscures some, but GREAT Pipes!

Cheers - Jim

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

pictures

I have concerns about the camber of the left rear wheel from this picture

the spoiler... my cooling issues are solved... what a difference, never got over 190 all weekend

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

again, left rear

yeah yeah, bad Aaron put your arm inside

 

[BBShark]

Nice pix!

 

[mfain]

One thing you may want to look at is bump steer in the rear suspension. With an IRS with toe links, raising or lowering the outboard end of the toe link changes the bump steer characteristics, just as changing caster on the front suspension does. Using the C7 as an example, rear caster set to 0 degrees is critical in preventing unwanted bump steer characteristics. I don't know what the caster of the Camaro suspension should be, but you could bump steer the rear suspension just like you would the front, or you could map all the pick-up points and run them through a suspension analyzer. If you are introducing bump steer (on one side or another, or both), that could cause toe-out under compression that could cause a snap oversteer. Just sayin'

 

[phantomjock]

SBG - If you map-em and send 'em, I'll run 'em.
It,s hitting 104 and tough to finish the outdoor projos!
But I got some welding to do - just to add to the heat!

Cheers - Jim

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

One thing you may want to look at is bump steer in the rear suspension. With an IRS with toe links, raising or lowering the outboard end of the toe link changes the bump steer characteristics, just as changing caster on the front suspension does. Using the C7 as an example, rear caster set to 0 degrees is critical in preventing unwanted bump steer characteristics. I don't know what the caster of the Camaro suspension should be, but you could bump steer the rear suspension just like you would the front, or you could map all the pick-up points and run them through a suspension analyzer. If you are introducing bump steer (on one side or another, or both), that could cause toe-out under compression that could cause a snap oversteer. Just sayin'

so the pictures weren't lying, the camber on the rear is substantially different right to left. The question is only 'which moved' I think it's the left rear. Last year, I had trouble with the alignment cams on the front - so I replaced everything to eliminate them and replace them with stacked shims. The front seems to be just fine now. Of course, the problem travelled to the next weak link. I've ordered near lower control arms that eliminate the cams.

and I agree - the alignment was not static, and when the lower arm moved, that changed the rear toe as well. I guess the bright side in all of this is I'm going to wait before I change to double adjustable shocks. the pictures also showed me that with the shocks properly set, the car maintains good balance in the turns. Not saying I'd turn down a sponsorship but I'm not going to sponsor them myself until I get this latest fix installed (end of August)

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

SBG - If you map-em and send 'em, I'll run 'em.
It,s hitting 104 and tough to finish the outdoor projos!
But I got some welding to do - just to add to the heat!

Cheers - Jim

103 here today.... I'm okay to 95 but higher - not so much

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

and headlight fixed

the 'fixes' include new rear lower control arms - this picture indicated my alignment had moved

and yes, I'll move it back to where it belongs and run it for now

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

and more parts arrived

nice bit... they fit in the buckets

so I'll have aimable headlights... woo hoo

 

[bobs77vet]

is that white bar an LED panel?

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

is that white bar an LED panel?

no

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

parts missing

onward with this fix (but it will get stopped before the end...argh!)
the fail was the plastic holder

I have 3 of 4 buckets, but even they need to be modified

what I'm missing is a ring to hold the light in place. I'm sure I have one I can borrow off the 64 wagon but I couldn't find them.... so to be continued

I've also scheduled a full day dyno tune in October - hopefully this year, I can pack the car away in the trailer ready to run for next year....

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

missed a picture... had to slot the bowl to have the lights correctly aimed

 

[bobs77vet]

looks good i always found all those adjusting parts and dust sleeves and springs to be interesting, and old rusty ones never seem to work properly

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

back to the minor fixes.... tomorrow I'll call Dakota digital and find out why this is lit.... it also doesn't work

but I did get packages!

very nice piece

only thing... where is the cam eliminator kit? so another phone call to them tomorrow.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

to remind

the difference

installed

I really like these, my only complaint is there are no cam eliminators. Not a huge deal, a tack on the bottom of the cam and it ain't goin' nowhere
other cool thing, I had to drill holes in the stock arms to use coil-overs, with these I do not.

 

[bobs77vet]

are those brass looking hex heads int he middle for adjustment and how do they lock in position? is the middle nut a jamb nut?

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

are those brass looking hex heads int he middle for adjustment and how do they lock in position? is the middle nut a jamb nut?

it's the adjuster, the jam nuts are on either side.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

had to get clever to get the spacers in

and installed

and go figure, it's 2" shorter then before..... time to adjust coils

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

new springs with titanium retainers... wow are they a lot lighter then the tool steel ones that are there now.

now the question... change them now or just before I go racing again? I do need to change the rear diff - while I will go backwards in limited slip, it will really help with top speed (which I lost 10 mph at PIR)....

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

as much as my lips are saying "no no" Thunderhill in October 10-12 is calling my name. Be a fun deal, actually, as SEMA is a couple weeks after that.... and that is still a solid 'no no' I race because I like the speed, I don't race because I want fame.

Thoughts?

*oh and for those following along, they announced running this at Willow Springs (which I would rather do)..... that said, going to California with the $2 hike in gas tax is gonna hurt.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

So.... the list:
1) valve springs
2) rear differential
3) fiberglass repair back panel
4) diffusor for area under the tank

oh yeah, and move 300 miles....

why? I'm doing Optima again, but pretty much their last one before SEMA - at Thunderhill. They said Willow, but no, Thunderhill (which is fine, that track is a blast)... and makes for a fun year-end. Optima, 2 weeks later, SEMA.

 

[phantomjock]

Arron - I was going to jump in here with my perspective - if I may...

...
Thoughts?

I've always descrribed myself as a "DEBTOR." Design-Engineer-Build-Test-Organize-Race.
I get stuck in a lot of feedback loops, because I feel no "need" for a Poduium Finish.
I think the easiest way to race might be the Arrive and Drive. Just get in and DRIVE.
My flying in the AF was like that. Someone else had the duty, responsibility, joy, of putting it together.
I enjoyed the aweome flying opportunities they prepared and maintained.

"Props, Wheels, Tits - cheaper to Rent than Own." Been there - did that.

Great for training on track, but - I need my hands-on MY 'creation.'

Not just to gain the skills for driving (and the Need for Speed), but also the satisfction of
my; Design, Engineering and Build to get to the Track, Organize the setup, and Race - or Test.
I really enjoyed my 5 years in racing with the little Spec Racer, and got to DEBTOR some.
Though I was never a "Spec" racer, I did reap a 3rd & 2nd,. Later also a 1st - but DSQ for missing Impound!

I am really looking forward to the Corvette on the Track. It will be this season.

Just a few thoughts - you asked.

For what its worth.


Cheers - Jim