Plastic Fantastic 2

dangling brake cooling lines
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a start to a new setup
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the biggest problem is the spoiler can't hang more then 2" from the angle
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laid out a new plate - then the shear wouldn't start....
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I'm going to try something... according to what I've read - you need an air inlet that is 1/3rd the size of the radiator.
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so basically, I'm going to eliminate the under side holes - however, if it doesn't work, I can simply pull the plate and get flow back....
 
spoiler v2 cont.
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what that doesn't explain is I had to diagnose and fix my shear...
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tomorrow's goal is make this look less hardware store
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I've used this stuff for flexible cheap durable air dams.

Thermoplastic Rubber Wall Cove Base.


One other thing, one guy here replaced his hooker sidepipes with 4 glass pack mufflers and was pretty happy (2 per side end-to-end). I think the OD was bigger than the hookers and had a large ID. Thought I'd mention that if you are still working the noise situation.

Looking good on the progress.
 
I've used this stuff for flexible cheap durable air dams.

Thermoplastic Rubber Wall Cove Base.


One other thing, one guy here replaced his hooker sidepipes with 4 glass pack mufflers and was pretty happy (2 per side end-to-end). I think the OD was bigger than the hookers and had a large ID. Thought I'd mention that if you are still working the noise situation.

Looking good on the progress.
getting the old whatever-is-in-there out is the biggest issue.... with that said, I think I'm close enough with the cones. We will see on my PIR track day (May 27). If not, that will be my next step.
 
I've used that base board plastic on a number of cars glued on with rtv. :)

This was the thread I was thinking of with 4 mufflers, but he didn't use 4, so I saw 4 elsewhere.

 
Next winter I'm doing two things (three if you count sleeping after moving 3 hours east)... I'm building a port injection intake with cross ram manifolds and I'm building side pipes with headers that work. For now... that bit about moving is starting to really get in the way of important stuff....
 
Not going to try and guess what's going on in this pic, but a couple of thoughts regarding your efforts:
1. Yours looks much more professional and less "shade-tree-aero" (I have no problem with shade-tree-aero. Remember, I'm a Florida-man)
2. Fender louvers
3. Note the intake size for radiator - yep, about 1/3 (+/-)
4. Hood opening - stock - I don't know, and can't see inside, but radiator appears to be in vertical mount
5. Air dam to Plywood Splitter - I'll let you "guess-timate" the height above ground
6. Wing is multi-element and appears to be split in mid-span (hmm - an opportunity for active aero?)
7. Cage (not obvious) and no window-net (No, I haven't checked the TT -Sups)
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[Front wheels appear to be straight - getting air maybe from curbing bump?]
I should be ready for next season's TT @ NCM - It is a place I really want to run! (also the SCCA meet too.)
There, more than I was going to write - sorry.
Cheers - Jim
 
I want to shade tree aero a C7.... then lift a tire or two on berms.... we won't talk about a near flight experience I had at Pacific Raceway in the Cadillac (aka rotation induced by braking)... I wanted to find the adhesion limit and I most certainly did... did a beautiful drift - and according to a friend who was working the corner, he saw daylight under the car....
 
did some work on this today...

worked on the spoiler
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cut the block plate and spoiler out of one piece of aluminum
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the bottom inch will be rubber....
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also fixed some cracks because it was finally warm enough to use epoxy
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Looks like (as you have time) you could ensure you get all the flow you want through the radiator, You could add a couple of "side walls." These would isolate the Radiator flow from leaking to other space in that area. I think you 'd like the high pressure moving through the radiator - and not the wheel wells.
Simple and sturdy could be Alumna-core (sp?) and foam, or your preference, a purpose-built, fabricated duct. I know you mentioned previously a duct is "in the future." This section could be the entry with the back side of the radiator duct - TBD.

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The side grills could be used to capture your brake ducts.

Cheers - Jim
 
considering if this is what I want
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or this
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in other news, painting inner liners
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and wiring the reverse light
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all while waiting for the epoxy to fully dry
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I'd go for All Across. Took a minute or two to locate the difference.
- Thought you were trolling me...
Cheers - Jim
lol, me too. I have a point and shoot camera that captures most of the images that I ask it to (and is quite annoying when it misses big steps) - so when I saw the picture I thought "why did I take 2 pictures of it?" I hadn't...
 
beta version etch primer
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installed
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rivet the rubber spoiler on
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install edges
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it's also bolted to the frame through the bottom of the radiator cladding
also, rather then hard attach to the fenders, the rubber stoppers will keep the metal in place but also allow it to give if I get too low....
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fun fun
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spoiler - wider and remove the lift from the nose (no catfish nose lift)
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what's left? reverse lights and figure out why the lighter plug isn't working... then it goes in the garage to await its first racing of the season (mid-May)... and that schedule is Spokane May 15ish, and PIR May 27....
Also, need to finish up some things on the motorhome but it's close...

oh yeah, and buy 2 houses, a commercial property then move 300 miles --------> way
oh and get a puppy this weekend.
and commute to Idaho for Buick parts.
 
You're starting to sound like Mr. Incredible "I've got time..." Nice work on the spoiler, it looks like it will be forgiving enough on rougher tracks and blends in really well where you barely even notice it.
 
dangerously close to the object I imagined 4 years ago - well, 2 years ago after that Randy Probst guy totally upended what I planned
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inner fenders done

shop empty.

Monday, new project
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