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dangling brake cooling lines
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a start to a new setup
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the biggest problem is the spoiler can't hang more then 2" from the angle
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laid out a new plate - then the shear wouldn't start....
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I'm going to try something... according to what I've read - you need an air inlet that is 1/3rd the size of the radiator.
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so basically, I'm going to eliminate the under side holes - however, if it doesn't work, I can simply pull the plate and get flow back....
 
I’ve used this stuff for flexible cheap durable air dams.

Thermoplastic Rubber Wall Cove Base.​


One other thing, one guy here replaced his hooker sidepipes with 4 glass pack mufflers and was pretty happy (2 per side end-to-end). I think the OD was bigger than the hookers and had a large ID. Thought I’d mention that if you are still working the noise situation.

Looking good on the progress.
 
I’ve used this stuff for flexible cheap durable air dams.

Thermoplastic Rubber Wall Cove Base.​


One other thing, one guy here replaced his hooker sidepipes with 4 glass pack mufflers and was pretty happy (2 per side end-to-end). I think the OD was bigger than the hookers and had a large ID. Thought I’d mention that if you are still working the noise situation.

Looking good on the progress.
getting the old whatever-is-in-there out is the biggest issue.... with that said, I think I'm close enough with the cones. We will see on my PIR track day (May 27). If not, that will be my next step.
 
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Next winter I'm doing two things (three if you count sleeping after moving 3 hours east)... I'm building a port injection intake with cross ram manifolds and I'm building side pipes with headers that work. For now... that bit about moving is starting to really get in the way of important stuff....
 
Not going to try and guess what's going on in this pic, but a couple of thoughts regarding your efforts:
1. Yours looks much more professional and less "shade-tree-aero" (I have no problem with shade-tree-aero. Remember, I'm a Florida-man)
2. Fender louvers
3. Note the intake size for radiator - yep, about 1/3 (+/-)
4. Hood opening - stock - I don't know, and can't see inside, but radiator appears to be in vertical mount
5. Air dam to Plywood Splitter - I'll let you "guess-timate" the height above ground
6. Wing is multi-element and appears to be split in mid-span (hmm - an opportunity for active aero?)
7. Cage (not obvious) and no window-net (No, I haven't checked the TT -Sups)
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[Front wheels appear to be straight - getting air maybe from curbing bump?]
I should be ready for next season's TT @ NCM - It is a place I really want to run! (also the SCCA meet too.)
There, more than I was going to write - sorry.
Cheers - Jim
 
I want to shade tree aero a C7.... then lift a tire or two on berms.... we won't talk about a near flight experience I had at Pacific Raceway in the Cadillac (aka rotation induced by braking)... I wanted to find the adhesion limit and I most certainly did... did a beautiful drift - and according to a friend who was working the corner, he saw daylight under the car....
 
did some work on this today...

worked on the spoiler
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cut the block plate and spoiler out of one piece of aluminum
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the bottom inch will be rubber....
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also fixed some cracks because it was finally warm enough to use epoxy
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Looks like (as you have time) you could ensure you get all the flow you want through the radiator, You could add a couple of "side walls." These would isolate the Radiator flow from leaking to other space in that area. I think you 'd like the high pressure moving through the radiator - and not the wheel wells.
Simple and sturdy could be Alumna-core (sp?) and foam, or your preference, a purpose-built, fabricated duct. I know you mentioned previously a duct is "in the future." This section could be the entry with the back side of the radiator duct - TBD.

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The side grills could be used to capture your brake ducts.

Cheers - Jim
 
considering if this is what I want
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or this
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in other news, painting inner liners
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and wiring the reverse light
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all while waiting for the epoxy to fully dry
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I'd go for All Across. Took a minute or two to locate the difference.
- Thought you were trolling me...
Cheers - Jim
lol, me too. I have a point and shoot camera that captures most of the images that I ask it to (and is quite annoying when it misses big steps) - so when I saw the picture I thought "why did I take 2 pictures of it?" I hadn't...
 
beta version etch primer
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installed
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rivet the rubber spoiler on
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install edges
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it's also bolted to the frame through the bottom of the radiator cladding
also, rather then hard attach to the fenders, the rubber stoppers will keep the metal in place but also allow it to give if I get too low....
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fun fun
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spoiler - wider and remove the lift from the nose (no catfish nose lift)
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what's left? reverse lights and figure out why the lighter plug isn't working... then it goes in the garage to await its first racing of the season (mid-May)... and that schedule is Spokane May 15ish, and PIR May 27....
Also, need to finish up some things on the motorhome but it's close...

oh yeah, and buy 2 houses, a commercial property then move 300 miles --------> way
oh and get a puppy this weekend.
and commute to Idaho for Buick parts.
 
You're starting to sound like Mr. Incredible "I've got time..." Nice work on the spoiler, it looks like it will be forgiving enough on rougher tracks and blends in really well where you barely even notice it.
 
dangerously close to the object I imagined 4 years ago - well, 2 years ago after that Randy Probst guy totally upended what I planned
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inner fenders done

shop empty.

Monday, new project
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It was a busy night for Trio, had to hide Luigi's ball
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yet they are peas in a pod... there is a 6 or so month age difference
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back to C3 content
I can move the exhaust pipe towards the car. Granted, it's no longer parallel, but I have a thought
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that it will help deflect noise
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I'm close, within 1 db...
 
Turned down or inboard for race day? (tire warming)
Insert a tip cone with large holes? Just 1 dB is close.
Hope your measurement is accurate (or at least very conservative).
 
Turned down or inboard for race day? (tire warming)
Insert a tip cone with large holes? Just 1 dB is close.
Hope your measurement is accurate (or at least very conservative).
I will have 2 2" 'extensions' to eliminate the bell that's created from the end of the glass pack to the tip of the exhaust.

With all of that said, there is no event where I'm a single car out there at full song - thus my hope is close enough is, truly, fine. And again, it's a 3 strike rule - I can run my limiter at a lower rpm (call it 5200 or so) and squeak under. Hopefully, testing will come next weekend at the autocross. Also, I have scheduled a track night at PIR at the end of this month (rescheduled) where I'll get to test the noise system at PIR (which is where Optima happens in July).

And, of course, we're moving 300 miles away during all of this.... so it should be interesting.
 
autox weekend.... the motorhome, it's beyond slow
and I need to fix the trailer brakes - developed a short on the trip
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looking for a short - and need to replace one tire...
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I also took the opportunity to repack wheel bearings - this trailer is going to get a work out over the next few weeks...
 
Sounds like your next big block build might be for the motorhome. MORE POWER!!!! Seriously though, a more modern transmission would likely be as big of a help. My parent's motorhome would be completely transformed by the 6 speed auto that is in my truck. It tows our camper great, but the electronic control aspect of it makes it a bit more of a difficult retrofit into an older model. It can be done, but is probably easier with an entire drivetrain swap. Probably easier just to warm up the big block and add a Gear Vendors overdrive to get a few more gears to help pull it out of the hole when the Vette is in tow. How did the car do?
 
Sounds like your next big block build might be for the motorhome. MORE POWER!!!! Seriously though, a more modern transmission would likely be as big of a help. My parent's motorhome would be completely transformed by the 6 speed auto that is in my truck. It tows our camper great, but the electronic control aspect of it makes it a bit more of a difficult retrofit into an older model. It can be done, but is probably easier with an entire drivetrain swap. Probably easier just to warm up the big block and add a Gear Vendors overdrive to get a few more gears to help pull it out of the hole when the Vette is in tow. How did the car do?
A very minor issue of the rack is leaking, but the car did awesome... me, I've got a lot to learn.... the difference I need to make up is 6 seconds. There was someone there who I think does the Optima challenge. He was 6 seconds faster then me (won the class).... I wasn't last - call it 'mid pack' but I have so much to learn (not whining, recognizing the challenge that I will overcome).

Ordered a rebuilt rack, should be here by June 2. Will likely lower the front a bit more and put at least one more 'click' in the attack angle of the rear spoiler.

So that was the biggest victory - no more understeer. Will probably put another 1/2 degree of camber in when I lower it. I could also use a bit more sway bar... but all of those things - no biggie... also need to pull quite a bit of fuel out (tuning)....

the motorhome.... what it needs is a cummins or duramax swap. But I'm not sure this is the right motorhome for that.... I dunno, this is an "after race season issue" - I'll consider solutions and start looking at repower options.... but not now, there's racing to do ;) oh yeah, and moving - signed the closing docs today
 
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