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the article didnt come up, i guess it balances out and absorbs pulses reducing the noise?

Perf plate has acoustic impedance, analogous to voltage drop over a resistor. The cone gives max surface area, max open area, so the pressure drop across the perf plate isn’t too bad.

Acoustic impedance lumps all the physics into one bin. I’m sure there are detailed physical explanations somewhere, but that’s too in depth for me.

I know we had test cells for gas turbines that had walls lined with perf plate spaced off a bit and apparently it worked pretty good for reducing noise.
 
I can't upload the article. If someone can show me, I have the PDF .... otherwise, google
"Design and Fabrication of Reactive Muffler" it should pop right up...
 
I believe you could host it in the "Downloads" Tab. Tell BBSHark - I believe he has the "keys." Or, you can change the file extension from <pdf> to <jpg> and tell everyone to change it back after they download it. That is kinda of "klunky - so I'd go to downloads...

Is it this one:
"DESIGN AND FABRICATION OF REACTIVE MUFFLER -- G. GNANENDHAR REDDY and N. PRAKASH"?
They show some substantial reductions.

Cheers - Jim
 
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Back to lights
first, adjust the rods so that closed is the furthest point.
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I need to make a stop but that's tomorrow
today, wiring.edited I'm putting the switch under the steering column.edited The stock C3 has vacuum controls for the headlight doors here - I don't need them, and I need a way of mounting the under part.... win win
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and painted black (and drying)
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to be continued tomorrow....edited
 
I believe you could host it in the "Downloads" Tab. Tell BBSHark - I believe he has the "keys." Or, you can change the file extension from <pdf> to <jpg> and tell everyone to change it back after they download it. That is kinda of "klunky - so I'd go to downloads...

Is it this one:
"DESIGN AND FABRICATION OF REACTIVE MUFFLER -- G. GNANENDHAR REDDY and N. PRAKASH"?
They show some substantial reductions.

Cheers - Jim

yep - it'd be cool if BB could put it in the tech section for future reference. there is a lot of good information in that short paper.
 
panels installed....edited
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I also used the wrong switch.... and this isn't better.... ah well. tomorrow.

The problem with the switch I used is it locks in position - it needs to be a momentary switch (self-centering) otherwise it could burn up the motors.
 
Now I'm official
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the right switch
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light lever
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on my list of things to do is power port
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mods
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first, block off the ash tray
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two holesedited
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wire harness
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now harness with switch
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even a phone holder
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I had to do one fix, I didn't realize my only USB port had voltage display... so one switch later
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two switches and a plug... there would be video of the lights
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B10W6tZnjLo&feature=youtu.be
 
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yes that a better description then mine, I think I would like to be a Mechanical engineer except for that math thing....:)
 
yes that a better description then mine, I think I would like to be a Mechanical engineer except for that math thing....:)

For those wondering how a lawyer is made. I want to race cars, and I know racing is expensive, so: I would have been a doctor, except I failed A&P, I would have been an engineer but I failed math. Law school it is!

Which is almost true for me, except I originally considered Psychology until I found out you make more money flipping burgers then you do with a Phd in Psych (not even slightly kidding).
 
reminds me of this joke....

plumber finishes his repair of broken pipes and gives the bill to the home owner....the home owner looks at it and says $$$per hour!!!! I am a Dr and dont even make that much, the plumber smiles and says yes thats why i left the profession.
 
reminds me of this joke....

plumber finishes his repair of broken pipes and gives the bill to the home owner....the home owner looks at it and says $$ hour!!!! I am a Dr and dont even make that much, the plumber smiles and says yes thats why i left the profession.

lol

and also explains why I'm considering going back to sheet metal work....
 
onto more fixes.
Coolant, the outlet is higher then the top of the radiator - thus I need a bleeder at the highest point.
the problem
https://www.fox5atlanta.com/news/at...spected-child-molestation-case-at-summer-camp
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remove
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180 degree thermostat with hole drilled (which is what's keeping it from overheating since the other side is actually above the radiator.
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hmmm... no picture of the fix... tomorrow
onto wires
I'm not a fan of the pertronix ceramic boots.... that said, if you buy enough of them, eventually they stay on
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while I was at it, I did some nicer wire looms
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then onto the task I'm not quite done with.... advance
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I went from the heaviest springs (all in by 2800) to the lightest - which actually start the advance at 800 rpm and all in by 2500
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next is a limiter - but I need to both back the timing way off (it's at 18 degrees now - should be around 10)... I also need to put an adjustable vacuum cannister on it - at idle it should be adding advance (save the starter and give advance when loping along at freeway speeds) but it most certainly won't because it takes 10 hg to move it and 15 to fully open it.edited If this motor makes 10 hg anywhere, I'd be surprised
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more tomorrow.
​​​​​​​in other news, I'm running straight 30w - and oil pressure isn't a problem... go figure
 
for some reason Lars told me to dump my adjustable can and go right to a fixed can to match the vacuum produced. He told me to to measure it so I would know exactly what to buy.
 
for some reason Lars told me to dump my adjustable can and go right to a fixed can to match the vacuum produced. He told me to to measure it so I would know exactly what to buy.

at this moment, I'm not terribly concerned about the vacuum advance - it's great for fuel economy when you're commuting - but not really worth anything in Autocross...
 
final picture of the vent
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on to other issues... vacuum leak(s)
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the problem started with being unable to keep it running with less then 20 degrees static.....edited
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now it'll run at 9 and is at 17.edited 21 degrees comes in starting at 1000 rpm then is all in by 2000 for a total of 38 degrees.... I'll run it then see how the plugs look
 
oh good grief
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This is new
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oh good, I get to buy another freaking set of push rods.... see the witness mark? it's on all the rocker arms
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this side is 'fine' .... started here, adjusted valves.
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time to wire a starter bump switch

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and yesterday's stuff just didn't end, this is a click-to-on switch, not a momentary switch (as advertised)
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so another switch later
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and bumping can occur.edited pushrods arrive tomorrow... they're nearly 1/2" longeredited
by memory, stock is like 8.280 intake, 9.250 exhaust so these line up, 8.700 for the intake, and 9.550 exhaust.edited One of the problems, before, you might remember was the head studs were substantially shorter then the new ARP studs.... then the poly locks are shorter - presumptively to clear short valve covers - and it's the hex end that's actually doing the hitting...edited
 
School of hard knocks, I’ve had more than my share. Hopefully you have it this time. I saw your post in the road race thread questioning dogs at the track, might want to start with the event sponsor, then the track, then state and local laws. But, I probably don’t need to say that to a lawyer. I was surprised that this state has a leash law, which suits me fine.
 
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i am not following you, it looks the rocker arm slipped off for some reason, did the push rod get damaged in the process? is the witness mark you are talking about on the rocker roller? and how is that a pushrod problem? does the push rod have too much lift?

wouldnt you expect to see a wear mark on the rocker roller? maybe it should be centered better?
 
i am not following you, it looks the rocker arm slipped off for some reason, did the push rod get damaged in the process? is the witness mark you are talking about on the rocker roller? and how is that a pushrod problem? does the push rod have too much lift?

wouldnt you expect to see a wear mark on the rocker roller? maybe it should be centered better?

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the poly lock is hitting the rocker arm

one came up - I was trying to figure out why in the world it came up, then went to back the poly lock off and what you see came apart.... then even closer investigation revealed I need much longer pushrods with the Comp cams rockers....
 
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