Plastic Fantastic 2
- Thread starter SuperBuickGuy
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bobs77vet
Well-known member
how is the sending unit sealed on that gas tank? ( i think thats it , the small circular plate with small #32 hex screws towards front of tank?) that sure looks suspect to me
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
I think you're right.... now to figure out how to seal it. Wonder if my wife's mirrors are still available or if they're still lost from the last time I borrowed them....
In other news, I bought another carrier with 3.42 gears in it. Figure if it's not enough, I can get the 3.27 gear carrier built with whatever I figure is better (3.73 or whatever) - the other benefit is I can fun steeper gears for track days but more highway friendly for normal use.
and the well known benefit of having a backup diff in case one decides to put pretty sparkles on the pavement.
In other news, I bought another carrier with 3.42 gears in it. Figure if it's not enough, I can get the 3.27 gear carrier built with whatever I figure is better (3.73 or whatever) - the other benefit is I can fun steeper gears for track days but more highway friendly for normal use.
and the well known benefit of having a backup diff in case one decides to put pretty sparkles on the pavement.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
even better. there was a FRC running the Ax - same group so never got to talk to him, but he was scooting around pretty good
https://imgur.com/TjDJre8
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
onward.... enjoy the view, they're going away
new hotness
the problem is pretty simple, it doesn't align because the studs are a touch longer
I also need to align a couple rockers....edited
now with adjusted guideplates and no girdle
new hotness
the problem is pretty simple, it doesn't align because the studs are a touch longer
I also need to align a couple rockers....edited
now with adjusted guideplates and no girdle
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SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
haters gotta hate, it's what they do. My dad told me when I was growing up that "no matter how beautiful the woman, there's someone out there that hates the very air she breaths."
I can't imagine not using it - but there's some that it's just not their deal. The others, well, they just gotta hate. Ah well, I'm glad I'm not them.
now with that said, this car is twisting the rules a bit - so I have to expect some complaints.... I'm just curious, though, if I'm going to see a bunch of cars with this rear suspension in 2022 and beyond... to me, that's the highest form of compliment (even though they'd die before admitting I had a good idea).
Last edited:
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
New (to me) differential on its way.... thought I had a deal with one wrecking yard... but they didn't respond so went with a less expensive option.... love
car-part.com
car-part.com
mfain
Well-known member
I know the feeling. I didn't twist the rule book - I just threw it out. Somebody on the CF once asked me if it was a kit car. When I said "no, it is a real '56", I never heard from them again. My brother got thrown out of the Jag club when he put C6 suspension and an LS in his 1950 XK 150. BTW, the Jag has a late Camaro differential mated to C6 control arms and spindles.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
Parts starting to arrive.... sticking cable, fixed
Important console side covers - cause you gotta look good too.
rocker change is done...
and the list is actually longer because I'm going to get another set of valve covers bolt from the top - which is fantastic if the bolt doesn't punch holes in the tube... hopefully by Sunday night I'll have the majority of the list done.....edited
Important console side covers - cause you gotta look good too.
rocker change is done...
and the list is actually longer because I'm going to get another set of valve covers bolt from the top - which is fantastic if the bolt doesn't punch holes in the tube... hopefully by Sunday night I'll have the majority of the list done.....edited
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
timing is a funny thing - while this may not be allowed in USCA, SCCA has a new class especially for it that started this year.
about the only thing I might do different if I built another would be use the C6 rear as well.... I didn't think there was enough room but there actually is - I heard someone had done it, but my tape measure said no.... having the extra footspace would be nice....
bobs77vet
Well-known member
do you go through the candy in your easter basket as quickly as you go through parts?
you are a man on a mission!!!!!
you are a man on a mission!!!!!
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
I don't suffer ADD, I enjoy every minute. My work around is I know I have a specific amount of time to get something done - so I work that amount of time then get distracted and get that done too...
clean
and got the signals to work - bad LED flasher
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
back to fuel leak... I'm not sure it's the sender....
the sender.... but the non-capped line is a vent that I didn't put a hose clamp on.... hmmm
this one
it's a pain to get it on there - but I think that will be my first attempt to fix this
then onto other stuff
bad rubbers
not bad, just too soft
nice, solid poly
I started here, then air hammered, then ended up using this for the second bushing...edited
and clean
thread lock stopped me.edited Need some to finish assembly... but close
the sender.... but the non-capped line is a vent that I didn't put a hose clamp on.... hmmm
this one
it's a pain to get it on there - but I think that will be my first attempt to fix this
then onto other stuff
bad rubbers
not bad, just too soft
nice, solid poly
I started here, then air hammered, then ended up using this for the second bushing...edited
and clean
thread lock stopped me.edited Need some to finish assembly... but close
bobs77vet
Well-known member
that unclamped hose does seem to be in the epicenter of the stain, what kind of pressure is in the tank? or is it just sloshing? and are you sure its venting?
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
it wasn't tight, but I think the problem is just the pressure from the weight of the fuel
hopefully this fixed it
In other news, the springs finally arrived but they sent the wrong ones.... smh.... and I found out that Speedway motors delivery guarantee is pretty much worthless...
hopefully this fixed it
In other news, the springs finally arrived but they sent the wrong ones.... smh.... and I found out that Speedway motors delivery guarantee is pretty much worthless...
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
and more knocked off the list..
the list
for those who forgot what the dash looked like removed...
squeeky clutch ... hmmmm
I didn't think it was possible... but here's the problem... they put the bell arm in backwards.edited But I don't think it was the PO, or at least not his fault... it's made backwards
first clue was the zert fitting... it wasn't installed - it's usually on the top, but it wasn't..
thing was, the ring that holds the cup (frame side) was machined into the wrong end. Add to that the hole for the zert was on the bottom.... turning it around solved all its issues.edited Now it can be lubed. I punted on the clip ring - I reduced weight.edited One clip ring
now the clutch works correctly, the difference is one arm is longer then the other - thus in the Corvette, where you don't have as much pedal travel as the truck, it won't work Worst, it sticks to the top of the hole in the firewall.
now it doesn't
In other news, and not on that list.. noise
and a way to test it
105db at 50 feet and 50 mph.... it idles at 100 db..... hmmm
the list
for those who forgot what the dash looked like removed...
squeeky clutch ... hmmmm
I didn't think it was possible... but here's the problem... they put the bell arm in backwards.edited But I don't think it was the PO, or at least not his fault... it's made backwards
first clue was the zert fitting... it wasn't installed - it's usually on the top, but it wasn't..
thing was, the ring that holds the cup (frame side) was machined into the wrong end. Add to that the hole for the zert was on the bottom.... turning it around solved all its issues.edited Now it can be lubed. I punted on the clip ring - I reduced weight.edited One clip ring
now the clutch works correctly, the difference is one arm is longer then the other - thus in the Corvette, where you don't have as much pedal travel as the truck, it won't work Worst, it sticks to the top of the hole in the firewall.
now it doesn't
In other news, and not on that list.. noise
and a way to test it
105db at 50 feet and 50 mph.... it idles at 100 db..... hmmm
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
forgot to mention.editededited
Fixed the throttle and have dual springs.edited I've had terrible luck with Lokar and similar 'aftermarket' throttle cables - sometimes stock is the right answer... rarely, but sometimes
Fixed the throttle and have dual springs.edited I've had terrible luck with Lokar and similar 'aftermarket' throttle cables - sometimes stock is the right answer... rarely, but sometimes
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
in good news, the other diff arrived.edited While more work, it should make me quite a bit faster
the hole gave me a discount, otherwise it's in better shape then the one I got from the people I bought the rest of the cradle from
and for those curious... this differential - I'll probably regear it but if not, I may use it under the Sledanet
drain
start removing bits...... I took this a lot further apart because I need to put the poly joints in the last two points
old cover on new diff
I actually have a cooled cover coming (dirt cheap, brand new) but it won't be here until Friday and I want to use this on Sunday so if I wait, I won't have time to reassemble in time
picture to remember how the spacers go
and then.... hmm
installing was a lot easier then taking the old one out
and... there is conflicting information about whether or not to use friction modifier.edited GM says use it.edited Given the wear in the other with the little bit I've used it (and the noise) -edited I'd say GM was right - when I put this together Mobil 1 said it wasn't necessary.
the hole gave me a discount, otherwise it's in better shape then the one I got from the people I bought the rest of the cradle from
and for those curious... this differential - I'll probably regear it but if not, I may use it under the Sledanet
drain
start removing bits...... I took this a lot further apart because I need to put the poly joints in the last two points
old cover on new diff
I actually have a cooled cover coming (dirt cheap, brand new) but it won't be here until Friday and I want to use this on Sunday so if I wait, I won't have time to reassemble in time
picture to remember how the spacers go
and then.... hmm
installing was a lot easier then taking the old one out
and... there is conflicting information about whether or not to use friction modifier.edited GM says use it.edited Given the wear in the other with the little bit I've used it (and the noise) -edited I'd say GM was right - when I put this together Mobil 1 said it wasn't necessary.
bobs77vet
Well-known member
mobil makes good products, but superstitious behavior or not i like the idea of the GM additive. in one of my rear ends it had me put two in it.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
onward
dust shields are more harm then benefit with what I'm doing
it's almost like GM expected people to cut them off
springs, finally the right ones
time to make adjusting easier
and yes, there is anti-seize everywhere
on to the front
I should have bought 9" springs.. ah well
now to reset everything.edited Need to realign, reweigh.... how much of that happens before I beat on it Sunday? dunno
dust shields are more harm then benefit with what I'm doing
it's almost like GM expected people to cut them off
springs, finally the right ones
time to make adjusting easier
and yes, there is anti-seize everywhere
on to the front
I should have bought 9" springs.. ah well
now to reset everything.edited Need to realign, reweigh.... how much of that happens before I beat on it Sunday? dunno
69427
The Artist formerly known as Turbo84
- Joined
- Mar 30, 2008
- Messages
- 3,080
- Reaction score
- 42
- City & State/Province
- Clinging to my guns and religion in KCMO.
and more knocked off the list..
the list
...........................
for those who forgot what the dash looked like removed...
................................
squeeky clutch ... hmmmm
I didn't think it was possible... but here's the problem... they put the bell arm in backwards.edited But I don't think it was the PO, or at least not his fault... it's made backwards
first clue was the zert fitting... it wasn't installed - it's usually on the top, but it wasn't..
thing was, the ring that holds the cup (frame side) was machined into the wrong end. Add to that the hole for the zert was on the bottom.... turning it around solved all its issues.edited Now it can be lubed. I punted on the clip ring - I reduced weight.edited One clip ring
now the clutch works correctly, the difference is one arm is longer then the other - thus in the Corvette, where you don't have as much pedal travel as the truck, it won't work Worst, it sticks to the top of the hole in the firewall.
now it doesn't
In other news, and not on that list.. noise
and a way to test it
..................................
105db at 50 feet and 50 mph.... it idles at 100 db..... hmmm
You lost me on the clutch bellcrank issue. Your parts look the same as my '69 (and similar to a C2 arm on the shelf), including the zerk that gets lubed from underneath.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
and more knocked off the list..
the list
...........................
for those who forgot what the dash looked like removed...
................................
squeeky clutch ... hmmmm
I didn't think it was possible... but here's the problem... they put the bell arm in backwards.edited But I don't think it was the PO, or at least not his fault... it's made backwards
first clue was the zert fitting... it wasn't installed - it's usually on the top, but it wasn't..
thing was, the ring that holds the cup (frame side) was machined into the wrong end. Add to that the hole for the zert was on the bottom.... turning it around solved all its issues.edited Now it can be lubed. I punted on the clip ring - I reduced weight.edited One clip ring
now the clutch works correctly, the difference is one arm is longer then the other - thus in the Corvette, where you don't have as much pedal travel as the truck, it won't work Worst, it sticks to the top of the hole in the firewall.
now it doesn't
In other news, and not on that list.. noise
and a way to test it
..................................
105db at 50 feet and 50 mph.... it idles at 100 db..... hmmm
You lost me on the clutch bellcrank issue. Your parts look the same as my '69 (and similar to a C2 arm on the shelf), including the zerk that gets lubed from underneath.
my initial problem was a squeak when you pressed the clutch pedal. the problem was the rod from the pedal was scraping the top of the hole in the firewall.
The bell arm has 2 different length arms on it. The long arm side was attached to rod that goes to the pedal. The shorter arm is the one that should have been attached to it. Basically someone welded it together wrong. Odds are yours is too.... how do I know? I spent more than a few days maintaining our shop trucks growing up - all were manual. All had that zert on the top of the bell crank.
So I took a chance, I took it apart, turn the arm around (so the long part goes to the clutch fork).... and now the clutch works perfectly (and no squeaking).
I bet someone at GM never realized the that because you could easily weld that together either way and it would work.... the right way to do what I did would be to reweld those arms on the opposite side... but who has time for that? :3rd: this works, it just means there is no clip holding the ball in place on the frame side. Also, for many cars the zert fitting would get knocked off when you used the clutch.....
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
confession time, I never even thought that the fuel push rod needed to stay in place when I eliminated the fuel pump.....edited Had I even thought it through a little bit, I'd have realized that the rod still needs to be in there to limit oil flow
thankfully sbc/bbc is the same diameter. I am impressed I found it in my piles of treasure
heat plug, pull plug, insert rod, reassemble.
also adjusted the valves, set the tire pressure to 45 psi, then scaled it (I swapped springs) - and it was close enoughedited
tomorrow, or day after, video of the festivities.
thankfully sbc/bbc is the same diameter. I am impressed I found it in my piles of treasure
heat plug, pull plug, insert rod, reassemble.
also adjusted the valves, set the tire pressure to 45 psi, then scaled it (I swapped springs) - and it was close enoughedited
tomorrow, or day after, video of the festivities.
phantomjock
Well-known member
hmmm - Please smarten me up!
Can you explain why the fuel push rod needs to be in place when you remove the (mechanical) fuel pump? That is the one on the engine - right? I am getting ready to remove and block off mine too - maybe not...
Is it an "oil-thing," or hiding something else in place internally? Glad you found it. I'd be still looking.
Thanks and,
Cheers - Jim
Can you explain why the fuel push rod needs to be in place when you remove the (mechanical) fuel pump? That is the one on the engine - right? I am getting ready to remove and block off mine too - maybe not...
Is it an "oil-thing," or hiding something else in place internally? Glad you found it. I'd be still looking.
Thanks and,
Cheers - Jim
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
yeah, premature celebration. it doesn't. back to my original plan of running straight 30w (or ignoring it).
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
So another day of autocross... this time a 'high speed' track.... new issues to overcome. As I mentioned, the oil solution wasn't... so back to my plan of running 30w.
In other news, running rich fouls plugs... yeah, not news
Starting to dial in suspension stuff - need to change the front springs again to a shorter spring (don't worry folks, I have lots of uses for coil over springs - so backstock really isn't a big deal at all)... need to put a bit more altitude in the rear then figure out why I go from neutral to understeer - I think tire pressure and shock settings can help but I'm going to have to go back to my suspension geometry books to relearn.
High speed means I got nearly to 100 mph - that was a lot of fun. Best part is I met several people very local to me who gave me lots of great feedback...
My 'new' issue is I got warm waiting in line - that might be part of a high idle issue that I solved (and didn't get nearly as warm the next time - 3 sessions of 4 runs each), but it's still something I need to focus on because it only gets warmer from here.
I may also have to admit I'm a "Corvette guy" - it was internally humorous to me that the first Ax - everyone would see my Corvette and be sure to let me know of other Corvette guys around.... I never realized it was a club... but then today one of the people that was really helpful had a friend show up who is dialing in his C3.... and I could help him... hmmm
for those curious I was dead middle of the pack. Best time was 52s by a Tesla and last was 1:12.... I started at 1:08, and progressed to 1:00.5 (which, for some reason annoyed me)
In other news, running rich fouls plugs... yeah, not news
Starting to dial in suspension stuff - need to change the front springs again to a shorter spring (don't worry folks, I have lots of uses for coil over springs - so backstock really isn't a big deal at all)... need to put a bit more altitude in the rear then figure out why I go from neutral to understeer - I think tire pressure and shock settings can help but I'm going to have to go back to my suspension geometry books to relearn.
High speed means I got nearly to 100 mph - that was a lot of fun. Best part is I met several people very local to me who gave me lots of great feedback...
My 'new' issue is I got warm waiting in line - that might be part of a high idle issue that I solved (and didn't get nearly as warm the next time - 3 sessions of 4 runs each), but it's still something I need to focus on because it only gets warmer from here.
I may also have to admit I'm a "Corvette guy" - it was internally humorous to me that the first Ax - everyone would see my Corvette and be sure to let me know of other Corvette guys around.... I never realized it was a club... but then today one of the people that was really helpful had a friend show up who is dialing in his C3.... and I could help him... hmmm
for those curious I was dead middle of the pack. Best time was 52s by a Tesla and last was 1:12.... I started at 1:08, and progressed to 1:00.5 (which, for some reason annoyed me)
bobs77vet
Well-known member
isn't running rich, fouling plugs and getting warm interrelated?
i think a 12 second improvement from first lap to last lap would make me happy
i think a 12 second improvement from first lap to last lap would make me happy
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
I found it odd that it annoyed me for the very reason you stated. Though on my fastest lap, it had one running issue, so maybe that was it. I love the 427, its power, its sound and its pedigree - but it's issues really make me question why I didn't simply buy a crate LS3 or LS7... the motor mounts for the C5 are still on the cradle
In other news, the clutch works perfect. I wonder how many people have been fighting the squeaking issue and never realized that the clutch feels wrong....
69427
The Artist formerly known as Turbo84
- Joined
- Mar 30, 2008
- Messages
- 3,080
- Reaction score
- 42
- City & State/Province
- Clinging to my guns and religion in KCMO.
and more knocked off the list..
the list
...........................
for those who forgot what the dash looked like removed...
................................
squeeky clutch ... hmmmm
I didn't think it was possible... but here's the problem... they put the bell arm in backwards.edited But I don't think it was the PO, or at least not his fault... it's made backwards
first clue was the zert fitting... it wasn't installed - it's usually on the top, but it wasn't..
thing was, the ring that holds the cup (frame side) was machined into the wrong end. Add to that the hole for the zert was on the bottom.... turning it around solved all its issues.edited Now it can be lubed. I punted on the clip ring - I reduced weight.edited One clip ring
now the clutch works correctly, the difference is one arm is longer then the other - thus in the Corvette, where you don't have as much pedal travel as the truck, it won't work Worst, it sticks to the top of the hole in the firewall.
now it doesn't
In other news, and not on that list.. noise
and a way to test it
..................................
105db at 50 feet and 50 mph.... it idles at 100 db..... hmmm
You lost me on the clutch bellcrank issue. Your parts look the same as my '69 (and similar to a C2 arm on the shelf), including the zerk that gets lubed from underneath.
my initial problem was a squeak when you pressed the clutch pedal. the problem was the rod from the pedal was scraping the top of the hole in the firewall.
The bell arm has 2 different length arms on it. The long arm side was attached to rod that goes to the pedal. The shorter arm is the one that should have been attached to it. Basically someone welded it together wrong. Odds are yours is too.... how do I know? I spent more than a few days maintaining our shop trucks growing up - all were manual. All had that zert on the top of the bell crank.
So I took a chance, I took it apart, turn the arm around (so the long part goes to the clutch fork).... and now the clutch works perfectly (and no squeaking).
I bet someone at GM never realized the that because you could easily weld that together either way and it would work.... the right way to do what I did would be to reweld those arms on the opposite side... but who has time for that? :3rd: this works, it just means there is no clip holding the ball in place on the frame side. Also, for many cars the zert fitting would get knocked off when you used the clutch.....
In the grand scheme of the universe this clutch arm discussion isn't terribly important, so we'll just have to respectfully disagree. IMO the arms seem to be in the correct position for leverage/travel, and the holes in the arms are in the correct place for attaching the return and anti-rattle springs, and the bottom position zerk allows lubing while under the car greasing the suspension.
I'm halfway through construction of an aluminum replacement for the stock clutch bellcrank, but I've found that my spare bellcrank that I was going to use to configure my welding jig is an early C2 unit, which has a different angle between the two arms.
