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Nice progress. They make a roll-over valve for the vent (I can’t tell if you have one already).

Just a somewhat related comment, I see Duntov just posted pics of a c3 they did with front and rear c5 suspension. Unfortunately, no details.

it does have the ball in the valve - problem is (because it's the breather) dust gets into the tank along with getting a gas smell as the liquid expands and contract with temp. This doesn't eliminate it, but it actually helps....

In my camaro, I plumbed it back to the rear bumper with SS overbraid and put a filter on it. Trying to minimize the fumes/danger. I left the check valve on the tank

Edit: reread your post and modified my reply.
 
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For those wondering what next....
- finish bolting down the body
- finish the cooling system
- make it run (wire the EFI, etc)
- give it a test run - yes before doors, or anything is back on the car

There is no way Hot Rod Garage beats me to the street or to done....
 
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Might be better just to stretch the wheel well. Slide the front half of the fender flare forward and finesse the gap.

I looks good on drag cars (rear) if done right.

Wide tires and tight turns more room is better.
 
this isn't hard to fix. strips of aluminum as backing strip glued to the fiberglass and move it forward then glass it back in.... and I have thought about sliding the body forward but let's not forget, I've already spent countless hours making those right....

so here's the mistake, I assumed the wheel opening was in the same place (as measured from the door frame) on the aftermarket flares as it was on the Corvette.edited It isn't, the rears are but the fronts are not - and if you look closely, you'll see the wheel opening is not round.... so I get to 'fix' it.edited And yes, they are aftermarket flares and if you look back, I'm sure I say who they are when I was less annoyed with them - but at this point, here's my recommendation.... don't buy them, there are far better options available for the same money.
 
time to shim the body
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the more I look at this, the more I think the shims are more of a problem then a solution.edited When I put the body back on the frame I put the stock shims back in place....edited
 
last thing I did today was pick up some 2013 grand sport tires/wheels...edited
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I need to get different pads (without the weights - or cut them off)
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only my camera could make a 335/30 19 tire look narrow..
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this is sitting on the ground so I could drop the car down an inch or so
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These ears - are the problem.edited I think they're a GM demanded anti-squeal or anti-chatter device.edited All replacements I've seen do not have them on it
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chop em off
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and voila 18s fit
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fat bottom vettes make the rocking world go round
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and it clears.. no need to move the flares
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shuffled cars, figured I'd snap a shot of it outside
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​​​​​​​my goal this weekend is do burnouts with it.... lots on the list, but it's doable....
 
An open header, no door, big block Vette burnout would be quite an experience. Shoot some video, or at least find a local car show and charge admission for a wild ride! If I was close by I'd hop in line for that!:1st:
 
Any local Autocross you can go raise some eyes at? Videos and sound please!!!

Cheers - Jim

BTW - no progress for me -- been stuck in the bilge pulling 30 years of accumulated wire and crap to prep the sailboat for sale. Then prep and paint the decks. AGRGGH me Matey - keep on course!! ! ;)
 
didn't get a lot done on this today - but got started with a cooling mod
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see the problem?
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I need to close this gap up a bit, but ultimately I'll simply move the intake up and put a shade on the top so it draws first from the bottom...
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it does look good
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empty box is good
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yeah not so much.... the list was right, just didn't have enough sub-parts
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the biggest one....edited
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Not a rant - simply wondering if anyone else is dealing with this.



I have a Miller Elite helmet I bought early 2014. It has worked as expected since new, but recently the dimming function seems to be possessed. My first thought was battery, and I replaced it, that helped but it still either doesn't dim or dims then doesn't come back to see-through. Replaced the battery again, replaced the protective lens, dusted (gently) the lens and sensors... no joy. Anyone else dealing with this? I've reached out to Miller but probably won't hear back for at least a couple days.... are sensors a wear item? I would hope that replacing $400 helmets every 5 years is not the answer.... of course, if it is.... what do you like? this helmet is starting to wear on the pivots so I won't be terribly upset to give it a full update (I like that it doesn't fog easily).
 
I made an executive decision.... not using this one
YI9h40Ah.jpg

mostly because if you look in the hole, you'll see the cooler tube takes 2/3rds of the tank.... so I got to looking for options and it appears a C5/C6 Z06 (7.0 liter) radiator is just what the doctor ordered.... so I ordered it anyway and didn't tell them I wasn't a doctor.....edited
 
Not a rant - simply wondering if anyone else is dealing with this.



I have a Miller Elite helmet I bought early 2014. It has worked as expected since new, but recently the dimming function seems to be possessed. My first thought was battery, and I replaced it, that helped but it still either doesn't dim or dims then doesn't come back to see-through. Replaced the battery again, replaced the protective lens, dusted (gently) the lens and sensors... no joy. Anyone else dealing with this? I've reached out to Miller but probably won't hear back for at least a couple days.... are sensors a wear item? I would hope that replacing $400 helmets every 5 years is not the answer.... of course, if it is.... what do you like? this helmet is starting to wear on the pivots so I won't be terribly upset to give it a full update (I like that it doesn't fog easily).

I don't claim to have any answers, but my first two self-dimming helmets were high dollar brand name pieces. Got a few years each out of them, and then they took a powder. I said I can't afford (actually, I couldn't justify) spending the big money for these things, given the hobby usage duty cycle that these things are used by me. Planned to go back to the old style helmets I learned to weld with, but for whatever reason I was in a HF store one day and noticed electronic helmets for about $50. I tried one, and it worked as well as the expensive ones. Have broken a couple over the years, but honestly cannot recall one just failing for no reason.

Just my $.02.
 
I made an executive decision.... not using this one
YI9h40Ah.jpg

mostly because if you look in the hole, you'll see the cooler tube takes 2/3rds of the tank.... so I got to looking for options and it appears a C5/C6 Z06 (7.0 liter) radiator is just what the doctor ordered.... so I ordered it anyway and didn't tell them I wasn't a doctor.....edited

My present radiator has a similar situation with the trans cooler tube being very visible in the tank area. I considered not using it (it's out of a 2001 Cavalier, trying to reduce coolant weight) due to some flow restriction concerns, but after looking at the flow area through the upstream thermostat, I came to the conclusion that the radiator port tube wasn't the primary flow restriction in the system.

So far the radiator seems to be doing fine in city driving. Haven't had the opportunity to do a track day with it yet.
 
Not a rant - simply wondering if anyone else is dealing with this.



I have a Miller Elite helmet I bought early 2014. It has worked as expected since new, but recently the dimming function seems to be possessed. My first thought was battery, and I replaced it, that helped but it still either doesn't dim or dims then doesn't come back to see-through. Replaced the battery again, replaced the protective lens, dusted (gently) the lens and sensors... no joy. Anyone else dealing with this? I've reached out to Miller but probably won't hear back for at least a couple days.... are sensors a wear item? I would hope that replacing $400 helmets every 5 years is not the answer.... of course, if it is.... what do you like? this helmet is starting to wear on the pivots so I won't be terribly upset to give it a full update (I like that it doesn't fog easily).

I have that helmet. After a few good flashes with no dimming/shading I figured out a fix. When ever the helmet sits unused for a while, I always press the test button. If it blinks twice I know it is good to go. This seems to wake it up. If I skip this I get flash. The manual talks about it.

Not sure the proper name for the test button.
 
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Newer than mine. [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hTP1gSsj1VY&app=desktop[/ame]
 

Interesting find, but that thread is at least 2 years older then my helmet - it has different buttons on it then what the OP describes.... it also has replaceable batteries. I guess I didn't print Miller's response.
Miller's answer - surprisingly no "dancing with virgin witches at midnight during a harvest moon".... of course, they may simply presume that we already know this....



Are you using Panasonic batteries?

If the lens is a digital elite put brand new Panasonic batteries in the lens

Turn the lens on

Turn sensitivity to zero

Remove the batteries while the lens is on

Press and hold the on/off button for 10 seconds.

Put batteries back in the lens.


and thank you for the thread post - it answers my question about whether or not this is an on-going problem. I'll probably buy a new helmet after SEMA - and after I attempt a guilt trip on Miller for this helmet....
 
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I made an executive decision.... not using this one
YI9h40Ah.jpg

mostly because if you look in the hole, you'll see the cooler tube takes 2/3rds of the tank.... so I got to looking for options and it appears a C5/C6 Z06 (7.0 liter) radiator is just what the doctor ordered.... so I ordered it anyway and didn't tell them I wasn't a doctor.....edited

My present radiator has a similar situation with the trans cooler tube being very visible in the tank area. I considered not using it (it's out of a 2001 Cavalier, trying to reduce coolant weight) due to some flow restriction concerns, but after looking at the flow area through the upstream thermostat, I came to the conclusion that the radiator port tube wasn't the primary flow restriction in the system.

So far the radiator seems to be doing fine in city driving. Haven't had the opportunity to do a track day with it yet.


In theory (which is causing me to laugh at 'theory') the C5 radiator won't need to have its outlets moved.... since it can successfully cool a 7.0 LS motor, I'm betting that it will be fine with a different bore/stroke 7.0.... it's supposed to arrive Tuesday - if it does, I'll let you know - otherwise it won't be for a bit because I'm headed to the Reno Air Races on Wednesday...
 
My helmet is 10 years old at least. People were saying buy Lincoln or miller, but not Chinese stuff at that time. Miller must have a problem as they made a video! Good luck on finding a replacement.

Great progress.
 
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