Plastic Fantastic 2

SuperBuickGuy said:
I wonder at how light I can get... I support the myth of factory appearing - so a tube frame ... I don't know, I'm not yet a fan (but my mind could easily change)
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There is a tube frame c3 on grass roots racing the guy says is 2500 lbs. I was looking for a c3 with a howe chassis, this one popped up since it had a front clip.


1968 Outlaw Vintage Corvette finally nears completion

1968 Outlaw Vintage Corvette finally nears completion
grassrootsmotorsports.com grassrootsmotorsports.com
 
SuperBuickGuy said:
I wonder at how light I can get... I support the myth of factory appearing - so a tube frame ... I don't know, I'm not yet a fan (but my mind could easily change)
Click to expand...

SuperBuickGuy said:
I wonder at how light I can get... I support the myth of factory appearing - so a tube frame ... I don't know, I'm not yet a fan (but my mind could easily change)
Click to expand...

My if-I-ever-get-the-freaking-time eventual goal is to make a replacement frame out of square/rectangle aluminum tubing (I've done most of the load/force and material weight calculations), and cover it with a coat of semi-gloss black paint to bland it out a bit. Right now I've got all the removable crossmembers duplicated in aluminum, for about 30-40 pound weight reduction. They're installed, except for the front LCA crossmember, as progress on that has been damn slow. I'm entertaining putting that on hold, and seeing if it's more efficient time wise to cut up and reweld a C5 aluminum crossmember. Any chance I could trouble you at your convenience to take some measurements of the spacings of the LCA mounts to see what alterations would be necessary to mount C4 LCAs to that crossmember? Absolutely no rush if you are able to help me out.

Thanks.
Mike
 
69427 said:
My if-I-ever-get-the-freaking-time eventual goal is to make a replacement frame out of square/rectangle aluminum tubing (I've done most of the load/force and material weight calculations), and cover it with a coat of semi-gloss black paint to bland it out a bit. Right now I've got all the removable crossmembers duplicated in aluminum, for about 30-40 pound weight reduction. They're installed, except for the front LCA crossmember, as progress on that has been damn slow. I'm entertaining putting that on hold, and seeing if it's more efficient time wise to cut up and reweld a C5 aluminum crossmember. Any chance I could trouble you at your convenience to take some measurements of the spacings of the LCA mounts to see what alterations would be necessary to mount C4 LCAs to that crossmember? Absolutely no rush if you are able to help me out.

Thanks.
Mike
Click to expand...
it will be interesting to see what the respective weights will be with the frame I build for PF3. I know the mods I did made PF2 weigh less, but I have no idea how much. Not just that but I'm going to move the cross brace behind the driver to copy what GM did with the Camaro suspension - that will also save me some weight because the cross brace and the Camaro cross brace are in PF2.
 
time to do the maintenance and stuff to get ready for the rest of the season
as mentioned before, the rack is leaking... I have a 'new' 'lifetime warranty' one.
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someday soon I'm going to make my 'spare' rack manual. I may also come up with another solution for the brake assist and ditch the hydroboost*
when I built the car, I verified I could pull the rack out from the driver's side... when I do the frame for PF3, this will happen too
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volume reducer
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the other thing I MUST fix is this rub. This is the 3rd time and there won't be a 4... so welding is going to happen
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*I like the hydroboost, but I don't like the leaks and I'm concerned that the current 'fix' for the rack (reduce pressure and volume) will negatively affect braking. Right now it's absolutely perfect.... by reducing volume and pressure by 30%... tune in for updates.
 
today's fun, make sure the top doesn't blow off at 150.... like it started to...
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inserts
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and glue
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and the hardest part is drilling in the acrylic
ultimately success came from a slightly smaller hole, heating the insert so it'd thread in, then backing it out a bit and stuffing epoxy in the outside threads
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that ain't goin' nowhere.

in other news, new toy
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I also finished up the rack install - I took pictures of the parts needed to reduce the pressure (rack needs 800 psi max, hydroboost can handle 1100 and the pump puts out 1350 - now 800)
of course the camera failed... I'll report back after driving it... I also lowered the front and aligned it. will drop the rear down as well... pictures of that part later
 
so I drove it last night. The reduced pressure doesn't affect braking (yay).
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lowered it, levelled it, need to balance it and align it again.
 
the problem - out of date seat belts
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the solution
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the "that escaladed quickly"
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so why... I left the center open for better view - the problem was getting the battery out (under the floor) was a right PITA. Add to this issue that had I run the bar all the way across, horizontally, then I could simply tie the seat belts to the rear bar.... so that's what I'm going to do.
Problem 2 is the cross bar is really in the way... so I'm going to make the roll bar into a seat bar. I will still function to aid roof support, but give me a bit more room for activities. With that said, the targa bar on the C3 is pretty stout from the factory - so is a cage necessary for what I'm doing? I say no.
 
time to work on the seat belt bar/roll bar
the problem is simple - it's an utter PITA to get to the battery and getting to the top of the tank is nearly impossible while leaving the bar in..
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so time to take the drop part out
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and welded.... a few more things to do tomorrow then reinstall
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When you build your next car, and assuming you intend to potentially track it in wheel-to-wheel events, you need to look at the SCCA and NASA rule books to make sure your roll bar (and cage) is compliant. Even some of the open road events require either the NASA or SCCA specification. This one does give some roll-over protection and works as a harness bar, but it would not pass the more technical inspection that generally requires "a diagonal bar from within 12" of the top corner (driver's side) to as low as possible on the passenger side of the hoop". That bar needs to be in a straight line (no offsets or bends at the harness bar) and in the same plane as the hoop. Stuff like that.
 
now with paint
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the white isn't an issue unless the carpet moves - since I have spare black paint
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better
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almost there... I don't know what I did with the grommet for the passenger seat - so I ordered another...
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ah well, I can bolt it all down ...
 
So today.... was supposed to Ax but it wouldn't stop rain and when it did stop raining, the thunder came rolling in. I need the practice but I'd rather not die - so did some side work
like my spoiler
when I went airborne at Thunderhill, I tweaked the front spoiler - it fell off when I rolled it back out of the trailer after the trip
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so glue, clamp
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rivet
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then put a backer piece and reattach to the car
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getting back to your rack and pinion seal , i know you mentioned the hydro boost is that hooked up to the rack and pinion?

why not internally shim out the Power steering pump and reduce the pressure it creates?
 
bobs77vet said:
getting back to your rack and pinion seal , i know you mentioned the hydro boost is that hooked up to the rack and pinion?

why not internally shim out the Power steering pump and reduce the pressure it creates?
Click to expand...
I did, but I need to race it to see if the pressure reduction works.
 
did go play but I'm finally ready to go. Car is pretty much done and the motorhome is ready to go again. It wouldn't be me if it was completely done but it's close.
this was the 'final' thing, 5th point for the harness for the passenger seat
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still waiting on a different bracket for the spoiler - but that really is pretty much it. Just need to drive it - which is my plan for the next few weeks.
 
Finally found a shop to do the alignment on my C3. I know, I should just go to Firestone, they'll have no trouble with this.... HA
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so explanation.... the cams do NOT stay in place when you drive in a spirted manner... they will now
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I'd replace that arm with something aftermarket but the aftermarket, strangely, doesn't have an arm for a retrofitted Camaro rear suspension in a C3 with coilovers.... sarcasm aside, coil overs aren't really something does with 5th gen Camaros, thus any arm expects you to use the struts.... which are not coilovers... so a bit of a tack and it'll stay now.


and you folks know who did the alignment Duke Langley - he runs a shop 20 miles from me, I figured I'd be pretty dumb not to get his hands on mine... also a heck of a nice guy with very fair pricing.
his 2002 Corvette is an utter beast
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very nice, when I lived in NJ I went to east coast supercharging once. that was really cool.

I would definitely let him work some magic and get some of his experience in setting it up
 
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