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kwplot34

Heart Attack
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Liberty,Mo
Started sanding down the car today and in between the neighbors stopping by and asking questions i did not make much progress.
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can i use my heat gun to get badges off the car??????????????? i need to get them off so i can sand :push:
 
Take em off and toss them, or just paint over them.....

:gurney:

but I just told my welder buddy who is on the road working in Pittsburg and freezing his ASS off now....well he said to NOT sand my car, as it would turn out worse than it is now, on account of I ain't got the PATIENCE.....


he IS right, I know.....actually it's more the repetitive motion on the hands/joints....kneeling/sitting next to the car....

:crylol:


:crap::ill:
 
push a few razor blades between the emblem and the paint, it'll come off.... heat will help but shouldn't be necessary....

Try a razor blade to strip the car before you sand too much, I really liked that method best.
 
push a few razor blades between the emblem and the paint, it'll come off.... heat will help but shouldn't be necessary....

Try a razor blade to strip the car before you sand too much, I really liked that method best.

I can do that,i was going to try the blades for removing paint and forgot all about it :lol:
 
The 74 has speed nuts on the backside- check there before you go digging around with a blade.. Ol' Red ain't got no stinkin' badges.
 
Kevin,

Get a piece of plastic strap that they use when banding a box. Slide it under there with a back & fourth motion. It will take it right off. That is what they use at the body shops.
 
Kevin,

Get a piece of plastic strap that they use when banding a box. Slide it under there with a back & fourth motion. It will take it right off. That is what they use at the body shops.

I used a hammer and a chisel on them today and they popped right off :smash:

Good advice i was able to get them off pretty much the same way you said except i used some fishing string :idea: Just make sure to wear some gloves before you attempt this or things could get messy :sos:
 
Well it's a big mess now :waxer::smash: plan for tomorrow is to pull the doors off and sand them down.
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Progress:bounce:

Yes progress i like it :nuts: But after i pulled that rear bumper cover off i see a lot of "While-im-at-it's" in there. Think i will finish pulling all that metal out and blast it and then put some POR_15 on it,we can't have any rusty parts :crap:
 
Progress:bounce:

Yes progress i like it :nuts: But after i pulled that rear bumper cover off i see a lot of "While-im-at-it's" in there. Think i will finish pulling all that metal out and blast it and then put some POR_15 on it,we can't have any rusty parts :crap:

No turning back now....that metal has to come out and get cleaned up or you'll be kicking yourself in the arse later......ain't it just fun:clobbered:
 
Progress:bounce:

Yes progress i like it :nuts: But after i pulled that rear bumper cover off i see a lot of "While-im-at-it's" in there. Think i will finish pulling all that metal out and blast it and then put some POR_15 on it,we can't have any rusty parts :crap:

No turning back now....that metal has to come out and get cleaned up or you'll be kicking yourself in the arse later......ain't it just fun:clobbered:

More fun than a broken leg :crutches: but yes any thing i can take off the car and clean up and paint or put some POR-15 on it,is coming off.

It's taken me 3 days to get it this far but i have at least 5 months to get it done. My other planned goal is to take the head light assy's apart and powder coat all the parts and replace all the little bushings.
 
For what I can see, you will have to use a builder primer in those areas where a lot of paint was taken off, You have a mountain to climb, If you have a painter friend, have him look it over before you start priming, that way you won't be going backwards on filling different areas to get it all flat, There are different grades of filler primer and dryers, I'm sure you know this? I'd say you have just scratched it so far,, Happy arms are to come. Hve fun.
 
For what I can see, you will have to use a builder primer in those areas where a lot of paint was taken off, You have a mountain to climb, If you have a painter friend, have him look it over before you start priming, that way you won't be going backwards on filling different areas to get it all flat, There are different grades of filler primer and dryers, I'm sure you know this? I'd say you have just scratched it so far,, Happy arms are to come. Hve fun.

I have some sealer and builder primer to put on there. Happy arms :banghead: my arms are not so happy so i decided to take the day off from sanding :zzz: take a little break,i have to spread all this fun out i don't want it to end to soon you know :nuts:

Here is a question about the sealer.
should i apply it before putting on any putty to give it a base to bond too.
Or should i use the sealer after the putty is applied and sanded.
 
Shoot the epoxy primer/sealer over the SMC then use body filler and urethane high build primer.
Dunno how much you're willing to spend: PPG DP epoxy is awesome stuff but at $70/qt it's pricey - a gallon is probably around $220 or so..... I have used Kustomshop epoxy from TCP global and that seems to be pretty good too, half the price, $120 shipped.....

You can then spray sealer (reduced epoxy primer) between the high build primer and base coat - after you spray the sealer you only have a few days to shoot the base, otherwise you have to sand and spray another coat sealer.
 
Shoot the epoxy primer/sealer over the SMC then use body filler and urethane high build primer.
Dunno how much you're willing to spend: PPG DP epoxy is awesome stuff but at $70/qt it's pricey - a gallon is probably around $220 or so..... I have used Kustomshop epoxy from TCP global and that seems to be pretty good too, half the price, $120 shipped.....

You can then spray sealer (reduced epoxy primer) between the high build primer and base coat - after you spray the sealer you only have a few days to shoot the base, otherwise you have to sand and spray another coat sealer.

Thank you for the explanation some articles i have been reading were about as clear as the big Mo river.
I have PPG JP377 epoxy promer/sealer And PPG JP202 2K primer. Do those sound ok :oh:
 
I have PPG JP377 epoxy promer/sealer And PPG JP202 2K primer. Do those sound ok :oh:

PPG JP202 is the "shopline" urethane high build primer - I used it on the '79 and on the Ghia. I like it better than the Kustomshop which seems to be thinner and does not build up as well. The shopline primer is easy to sand.

I have not used their JP375 epoxy but the JP385 which is a sealer that's designed to seal the primer before the base coat is applied.

https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProdu...roductID=197b699d-54fd-47c5-af9f-1d6f9e9e3932

Here's the shopline info-website (the search function is on bottom left).

https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProdu...?BrandID=fc333455-bac7-410a-a3fd-04b4ea233dc0
 
Get a piece of plastic strap that they use when banding a box. Slide it under there with a back & fourth motion. It will take it right off. That is what they use at the body shops.

They DO!!!??? :lol:

Good Tip.........I actually never thought of that but will definitely give it a try. :thumbs:
 
Get a piece of plastic strap that they use when banding a box. Slide it under there with a back & fourth motion. It will take it right off. That is what they use at the body shops.

They DO!!!??? :lol:

Good Tip.........I actually never thought of that but will definitely give it a try. :thumbs:

See there:eek: Coming around VetteMod can be a learning experience. :yahoo:
 
moving right along,i think this area is the part i hate the most so far,and what a friggn mess in the hinge area :huh:
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