My '76 restoration (long post)

[mrvette]

You jogged my memory of some 20 years ago, a old hippie looking machinist that had like a 16' basement under his ~2000' house built into a hillside, he did it ALL, he was a NASA contractor building satellites for Goddard Space center just north of DC in Greenbelt....so he was the guy that modified/TIG'd up the induction for a DPFI on a old Pontiac 455 I had at the time....

should have seen his shop, I couldn't ID 1/2 the **** in the joint....his sideline was buying broken/cracked aluminum cyl heads and fixing them for resale, before head shops knew how....them being new on the scene back then....

but talk about Machine shop heaven, and to get to work, he walked down the stairs, he was making a KILLING.....

:yahoo::crylol:

Next time I visit him I'll take pic of his shop, be prepared, he's almost messier than I am.

We need start a MESSY GARAGE thread.....

lay odds I win....

just ask TimAT.....or DAmoroso.....prrtt::crylol:

 

[phantomjock]

Nothing to be proud of - but, "I COULDA BEEEN A CONTENDER," too.
I spend more time photochoping pics to post that clean it up - than cleaning might take. Somewhere under the junk is my CNC machine and 2 work benches! No room for a lathe, and all the wood working stuff is stacked like cord wood.

Cheers - Jim

 

[denpo]

I made good progress those two last week.

I removed the front clip and hanged it to the ceiling


removed the engine.
Even if I knew how to propertly pullout/put back a distributor, I didn't want to do that. So I tried to remove the engine with the distri still on. To my surprise it was totally doable.


While the motor was out I started refreshing the front accessories, they was quiet an eyesore compared to the rest of the engine, the main pulley and the PS bracket will get the same fate shortly.


The TH350 is down, let's put my T5


Engine protection shield pilot bearing and flywheel installed. I checked the specs of those ARP bolt, no lock washer require, an little oil and a 85 lb/ft torquing and they should be fine.


Test fitting of the bellhousing


I was then pleased of a "why not" purchase I made : long dowel pin.



The automatic dowel pins are way to short to align the bellhousing.

Tested the runout, 0.0025 at worst, well within the required 0.005. Phew.


The Zoom pressure plate, ARP bolt again torqued a 35 lbs/ft with red loctite.


Put the bellhousing back and the trans, et voila.



Next steps : shortening the driveshaft an fab the crossmember brcaket.

 

[JeffP1167]

How come you don't convert to a serpentine drive?

 

[denpo]

How come you don't convert to a serpentine drive?

Excellent question, I would have liked to but over there V8 engine have pretty much disappeared from the scrapyards.
"Serpertine" is along "100w alternator" and "external reservoir PS pump" in my mod wishlist.

 

[Twin_Turbo]

I'm not sure if I told this before but since you mount the tranny straight up instead of angled @ 17 deg, yiu must use the lower of the 2 fill plug/level plugs. I hope the case is threaded for that one.

 

[denpo]

I'm not sure if I told this before but since you mount the tranny straight up instead of angled @ 17 deg, yiu must use the lower of the 2 fill plug/level plugs. I hope the case is threaded for that one.

Yep, you told me that TT, and to be frank I didn't really watched out for that point. Would the fact I'm using a G-force case change anything to that?
I will post picture of the right side of the case today so we can have this detail sorted out.
Thanks for insisting, those are important details.

 

[Twin_Turbo]

If you use the upper hole with the tranny straight up there wil be way too much oil in it. The 2 holes or bosses are near each other but a little offset

 

[denpo]

If you use the upper hole with the tranny straight up there wil be way too much oil in it. The 2 holes or bosses are near each other but a little offset

:crap::crap::crap:



What's bugging me is that the case is sold as a Ford case (straight install), it doesn't even gome with the GM holes drilled, still only the upper fill plug is drilled.
WTF G-force.

Is it that bad to have the tranny overfilled? I could still fill is up and remove some afterward. See I'm looking for way to avoid to open it up once again.
*sight*

 

[denpo]

This week I took care of my driveshaft, cleaned it and pressed in some new non greasable U-joint. They are structurally stronger than those with a greasing zerg. It's now reading to head to the shop for a 3" reduction and a balancing.





I was kindof pissed having to fork out yet another 20$ for a new clutch rod boot, so I went to the scrapyard and picked a bunch of random boot and made a new one. Cost : 3$


I also had a -AN6 plug welded to the return port of my PS pump, so I can finish the plumping of my hydraulic setup once for good once the engine is back in place.




To finish, a pic of the press I bought a couple of month ago, it's small, only 6tons but at 70$ it's the best bang for the buck you could expect, I could press my U-joint, my transmission parts and my wheel stud.
Anyway a 10 or 20 ton press would have been too big for my cramped garage. I wish I bought that earlier.

 

[MYBAD79]

If you use the upper hole with the tranny straight up there wil be way too much oil in it. The 2 holes or bosses are near each other but a little offset

Is it that bad to have the tranny overfilled? I could still fill is up and remove some afterward. See I'm looking for way to avoid to open it up once again.
*sight*

no biggie.... you know how much fluid to put in there (by volume), forget about the hole and simply make your own dipstick to measure. Fill the trans with whatever they say to put in there (example 5 qts) , now bend a dipstick , stick it in the hole and put a mark where the fluid level is. done....

only problem is: will you remember next time you check the fluid level ?? LOL

 

[denpo]

If you use the upper hole with the tranny straight up there wil be way too much oil in it. The 2 holes or bosses are near each other but a little offset

Is it that bad to have the tranny overfilled? I could still fill is up and remove some afterward. See I'm looking for way to avoid to open it up once again.
*sight*

no biggie.... you know how much fluid to put in there (by volume), forget about the hole and simply make your own dipstick to measure. Fill the trans with whatever they say to put in there (example 5 qts) , now bend a dipstick , stick it in the hole and put a mark where the fluid level is. done....

only problem is: will you remember next time you check the fluid level ?? LOL

That's pretty much what I planned to do.

Still how the hell would G-Force sell a Ford T5 case (the GM holes have to be drilled afterward), which is supposed to be installed straight up, and still only have the higher fill plug drilled. Basically all those who put it right away in their 'Stang are running with too much oil in it.

 

[Twin_Turbo]

It's because I'm an idiot, the tranny is rotated 17 deg. towards the driver so the GM uses the lower hole...so I goofed there, you're all set oops :bump::footmouth::footmouth::footmouth::footmouth::footmouth:

 

[denpo]

It's because I'm an idiot, the tranny is rotated 17 deg. towards the driver so the GM uses the lower hole...so I goofed there, you're all set oops :bump::footmouth::footmouth::footmouth::footmouth::footmouth:

errare humanum est.
Thanks TT, one less thing to worry about :noworry:

 

[JeffP1167]

Motor looks pretty stout, don't think the T-5 will last long behind it! Watch the 1st to 2nd power shifts, that is generally what kills them fast.

 

[denpo]

Motor looks pretty stout, don't think the T-5 will last long behind it! Watch the 1st to 2nd power shifts, that is generally what kills them fast.

Yeah, you're right, the engine is a high-reving mofo, I hope the heavy duty case will give me some margin, won't drag race it anyway, just some spirited driving :noworry:

 

[Fuelie74]

This week I took care of my driveshaft, cleaned it and pressed in some new non greasable U-joint. They are structurally stronger than those with a greasing zerg. It's now reading to head to the shop for a 3" reduction and a balancing.

Does that yoke fit the T5? It looks like the larger yoke for a 400. I had to run a bastered joint with the smaller yoke.

 

[Twin_Turbo]

You're right, looks like a TH400 32 spline the T5 uses the same as a 700R4, a 27 spline. Only a Z6 (S6-40) uses a 32 spline yoke. The T56 uses the same 27 spline as the others and the TKO500/600 use a 31 spline. A driveshaft from an 82 vette is bolt in and the correct length

 

[denpo]

Does that yoke fit the T5? It looks like the larger yoke for a 400. I had to run a bastered joint with the smaller yoke.

You're right, looks like a TH400 32 spline the T5 uses the same as a 700R4, a 27 spline. Only a Z6 (S6-40) uses a 32 spline yoke. The T56 uses the same 27 spline as the others and the TKO500/600 use a 31 spline. A driveshaft from an 82 vette is bolt in and the correct length

The yoke comes from my auto tranny, which is a TH350 (Tim confirmed that in person).
FYI U-joint are 1330.
Got it shortened this week and it's currently installed in the car along side the engine, and everything is fitting fine.
Thanks for taking care of my work :thumbs::friends:
I will post pictures shortly.

 

[Arthur Brown]

I have nothing of value to add (nothing technical) but wanted to make sure you know I am looking forward to your updates, great work, especially because of your budget. It shows you don't need $$$$ to have a great C3

 

[denpo]

I have nothing of value to add (nothing technical) but wanted to make sure you know I am looking forward to your updates, great work, especially because of your budget. It shows you don't need $$$$ to have a great C3

Thanks, feels good knowing your people are watching.
The expression of your support is especially welcome today, spent too much time under the car this weeked, probably got my back cold, could barely move this morning. Spending the day sitting at work didn't help, not sure I could get up by myself tomorrow morning.
I got to get better quick, I don't want to be grounded for the xmass holidays.

 

[MYBAD79]

well said Arthur :thumbs:

Denis, get some styrofoam to lay on.... cold concrete floor is going to kill your back, pneumonia comes to mind.... you really dont want THAT......

 

[denpo]

well said Arthur :thumbs:

Denis, get some styrofoam to lay on.... cold concrete floor is going to kill your back, pneumonia comes to mind.... you really dont want THAT......

Don't worry Karsten, there is my ****** creeper between me and the floor.
I just got to make sure I keep my lower back warm when I'm under the car, where cold air comes for the garare door gaps.
Too bad because I grew up in the mountains and I'm an reverse bear : hibernate during summer, move mountains by winter.

Once I get my cross-member bracket done I won't be under the car before a long time anyway.

 

[denpo]

After being bedridden almost all last week thanks to a bad back, I felt much better this week and could move forward in several areas.

First I could take advantage of a week of holiday to go shopping. Bought fiberglass mat, epoxy resin and structural epoxy panel glue. I'm all set for the incoming bodywork sessions.

I could move foward with my T5 swap.
The driveshaft have been shortened and balanced.
The engine is now back in the car, and I've made a custom bracket for the transmission mount:
I took the stock support, cut it flush to mounting ears on the cross member, then welded a big piece of L shaped steel beam.
Then with a protractor and a jack under the bellhousing I aligned the engine 3° downward, that the lowest point you'd what the transmission tail to be anyway.
Then took measure to make the smaller bracket with the slope.

This way I keep my red flashing bushing and I can shim the transmission tail back up without messing with the lateral alignment.
Surprisingly, with the engine at 3°, I don't see any clearance issue, neither tunnel side or parking brake cable/pulley.


Finally a old project revived : the LED taillight
I made a base for the bubble cover, made from plastic cutting board.
I used my column drill a flat grinded drill bit and my hands as some kind of poor man's mill to make the grooves.
RTV silicon for the seal.



Kinda rough looking, but functional. I'd sure have loved those made out of a cnc machined piece of plastic and a PCB.

 

[Fastphil]

Denis, I've been enjoying reading your work in this thread. It's even more amazing considering I've seen the garage you're doing it all in! Keep it up, I wanna see this baby finished!

 

[denpo]

Denis, I've been enjoying reading your work in this thread. It's even more amazing considering I've seen the garage you're doing it all in! Keep it up, I wanna see this baby finished!

Hi Phil, welcome aboard and thanks for the kind word.:drink:

 

[denpo]

I've put my door back out and started restoring the hinges.
Pressed out the hinge pin and bushing, nothing complicated here.
Upon cleaning the part the ugly truth showed its ugly nose :
the hinges are probably unrestorable.






I actually shouldn't be that surprised, the Vette I have, before the resto, had an frontal accident sometimes in its lifetime.
Door are amongst the lasted thing that haven't been changed.
Still I don't quiet see how you can to that to a door hinge.

So right now I'm looking for a set of cheap door hinges worth restoring.

 

[Arthur Brown]

why not cut/grind and weld ?

 

[77Custom]

Denpo,

I have the hinge parts that you need... in damn near perfect condition. Call me... 615.308.0577.

They are yours for the shipping cost!

Best,

Robert

 

[denpo]

why not cut/grind and weld ?

Good question.
I consider those part as safety elements, welding would make them harder (thus brittle), plus it would possibly warp the part.
Given they current state I'm not even sure it haven't been already done in the past.
Of course, if someone want to prove me wrong I'm listening.