My '76 restoration (long post)

[denpo]

Interesting, and fairly priced.
I wonder if it also goes in the engine? I don't remember taking any out from the source car of my resto, but I doubt there was anything that haven't been touched by Bubba.

 

[vette427sbc]

The vinyl wrap was used in the engine compartment harnesses, but after dissecting more than a few 60's/70's GM engine harnesses, I can tell you It doesn't fare too well with 100+ degree heat cycles. It becomes brittle and falls apart in the higher heat areas. That being said, it is far nicer to unwrap should you need to service something...
but who knows, maybe the 3M super33 will do the same thing after 40+ years :clobbered:

 

[denpo]

The vinyl wrap was used in the engine compartment harnesses, but after dissecting more than a few 60's/70's GM engine harnesses, I can tell you It doesn't fare too well with 100+ degree heat cycles. It becomes brittle and falls apart in the higher heat areas. That being said, it is far nicer to unwrap should you need to service something...
but who knows, maybe the 3M super33 will do the same thing after 40+ years :clobbered:

I definitely don't get reply notification, whatever the setting.
We'll see. First this engine has to get hot at least once... someday.:smash:

 

[denpo]

Alright, big update.
One pictures tells it all :

My best Vette buddy Michel came to help and we managed to pull the failed SBC out. I Spend the whole week before removing all the connections and accessories to make the removal as steamlined as possible.
I started installing the scattershield backplate, the Sachs NFW1050 flywheel and the LS7 bearing. I'm ordering a BBC clutch today. People on the internet recommend having the flywheel and clutch balanced as a whole since I must removed the locating pins and make a combo that was not intended by the manufacturer. I'll ask shops around for a quote.

With the motor out I could finally check for something I feared would cause me headaches: the clutch linkage, and I haven't been disappointed....

I bought in advance the Scoggin Dickey clutch ball adapter for Corvette, and I have many problems with it.
First it does not locate the ball at the same place, below is a pic taken on my SBC, it might not be obvious because of the perspective (sorry, not much room to shot), but the bracket, which lines up vertically with the top hole (the one without the ball stud), pushes the stud further toward the front by approx. 1/2". I would need to test with the LS in the engine bay to confirm that, as I'm assuming the bellhousing ends up at the same location. Otherwise I'm in for much more troubles as I'd have to change the transmission mount.

Then, on the LS, the bracket just don't fit, there is a metal tag of the block poking out in the way. Seem like material to drill mounting hole in some configuration, still, cutting in the block is something I'll think about twice before doing.

Then, the piece de resistance of the whole ordeal is that the stock LS6 exhausts are totally in the way, mind you, the stud should be in the upper hole to be aligned with the frame side of the zbar mount.

Sooo, I'm at the crossroad of some significantly different scenarios:

1. I move from stock manifold, to header.
pros : more powaa, I keel my z-bar assembly as it.
cons: more $$$, I lose cool engine bay (in term of temperature) and the catalytic converter setup I aimed for.

2. I move from z-bar to hydraulic clutch.
pros : I keep at the exhaust setup I originally planned for.
cons : more $$$, more complicated setup, less direct connection with the drivetrain (a concept I like)

3. I get creative with the concept of Z bar.
As the zbar sits on two ball studs, it allows for significant amount of misalignement, add to that some custom frabrication (some sort of crank style cut out), I might be able to get around the exhaust.
pros: I change nothing, cheap
cons: some more fab.

In the case I'd go hydraulic, since I know my throw out bearing setup works, I was much more inclined to use a push style cylinder, as the scattershield has those mounting hole just above the fork.
Anyone know about those tabs? Were they intended for that, if so, is there existing setup you know would work?

Now, to finish on an high note, here's a view on my home made oil priming solution: took a M16 1.5 bolt, drilled and tapped, note the optional duct tape always on option.

Connected to my good ol' walmart garden pump. I pushed in the entire oil content, that should suffice.

I also indulge myself with some custom bracket for my d585 truck coil pack. I was rather inexpensive.
As I've switch sides with the fuel rail I have an interference with the coil, I'll probably cut the tab and try to bend the line away from the coil.

 

[denpo]

Moving forward!
I removed the flywheel locating pin, went to my buddy's shop and we dialed the pressure plate right in the center, drilled the 3 hole that were too small (BBC pressure plate with metric bolts) and drilled the pressure plate for the new location of the locating pin (sorry forget to take pic of the PP installed.

I made a bracket for the slave cylinder.
All seems fine, except that the slave cylinder has a spring in it, that makes it push all the time. So whatever position I set the adjustable fork pivot, it's always there to provide enough push for the throwout bearing to ride the pressure place.
Throw out bearing are not supposed to ride the PP all the time, aren't they?
Maybe the spring in the master cylinder, that actual act as a return spring will conteract this always pushing slave, once the circuit is devoid of air?

Tomorrow I got pick a clutch custom line as well as a -6AN adapter for the steering pump. I'm gonna test my theory.

 

[Red77]

I don't think you would want it riding against the PP fingers all the time, that would probably lead to noise, heat, and premature failure. The throwout bearing is typically supposed to sit back just a few thousandths from the pressure plate when the clutch is engaged.

 

[denpo]

I don't think you would want it riding against the PP fingers all the time, that would probably lead to noise, heat, and premature failure. The throwout bearing is typically supposed to sit back just a few thousandths from the pressure plate when the clutch is engaged.

Yep, that was my though. Just got the line, I'll see this evening if it fixes the issue.

 

[denpo]

Afterall , all that slave cylinder was asking for was a return spring.

And that completes the engine side of the clutch actuation

Which allowed me to proceed forward with the installation of the T5.

Which make the engine pretty much complete.

This is the front side of the engine exhaust, crappy spot welded and heading to get TIGed.

 

[denpo]

Ok, here's some updates, I'm moving ahead at good speed.

While I had the transmission out I though it would be a good time to take more picture of my Chevy WC trans mount.
Here you can see it's made form the original trans mount (it was for a TH350, not sure manual one are the same).

Here's how it fit with the other bracket, note how offset the holes are.

And that's the rear view of the bracket.

Then it was time for insertion. Boy that was a tense time, especially without helping hand.

You'll not there how optimistic I was, with the exhaust manifold still on. I had to remove then eventually, but, hey at least I tried.
I expected the batwing oil pan to give me headaches, turned out pretty good.
All went well until I realize I had the wrong body mount. The one that reuse one of the LS body mount hole as the bottom SBC mount.

So My engine had to stay up in the air for a week until I get those.
They put the engine 1" back, putting it in the orignal SBC position, back-of-the-engine-wise.

Annnnd now it's in. phew.

I was time then to focus on the clutch master cylinder.
I made this adaptor, shamelessly inspired by post on the forum.

Turned out this was just the lenth I needed to not have to tweak the length of the push rod. Except for the hole diameter, some fill welding, a good grind and some drilling and now we have the correct hole size.

Here's the slave installed

And the master.

And the reservoir sits nicely on top of the hydroboost.

Also done routing the power steering pump.
The line is against the head, I'm considering putting a fiberglass sleeve of the time.

Yeah, the return side is quiet a collection of different fittings. I'll probably order a female -AN6 to nipple fitting to replace this.

Now I hit a major bump, the scrapyard fan just don't fit. they hit the control arm axes in not way I can cut them to fit. That's a bummer. I'm gonna have to find something else. Advises welcome.
Thanks for watching.

 

[vette427sbc]

Nice progress :thumbs:

I like your slave cylinder bracket, looks stout! but why did you need the adapter for the clutch master cylinder? I assume thats the ~1985 chevy truck master?

 

[denpo]

Nice progress :thumbs:

I like your slave cylinder bracket, looks stout! but why did you need the adapter for the clutch master cylinder? I assume thats the ~1985 chevy truck master?

Another missed message. Thanks.
Why the adapter? While I do believe it's actually a '85 truck master, I'm not totally sure. I browsed Summit for something cheap with the correct 'shape' from was I've seen from other builds.

The holes position and spacing were not matching, and the pushing rod was just too long. By change once the piece done, the length was spot on. With the adapter I could also clock it properly.
You bet it's stout, my machinist made me the rough cuts and drill, and once I told him I would do the welding this time, he made them super thick. He was right, paint can cover a lot of scars....

 

[denpo]

I encountered another bump on the cooling side, the straight water neck just too close to my spreader bar.

So I ordered a 45° swivel one, and we now have the cooling sorted. Still have to make the fan mounting tab a bit more sturdy, and little paint wouldn't hurt.
The fan frame is from a Ford Focus but I swapped out the motor for those of the Sebring.

Now the fuel.
First I decided to put the fuel rail back into it's original orientation, cut the support tab on the inlet port in otder to bend it enough to clear the coils. The unconnected AN line on the passenger side is the return line (now obsolete).

Then the intake. It's a temporary setup as the air filter lie just under the hood vents (not to be driven in the rain).

I said temporary because I have plan for the future.....

While I was at it I took some time to rework the engine bay harness. I had this junction box I picked in a GM truck at the scrapyard. It helped the sort out all the 12v wires.

And now the bug : The ECU location.
Where was I going to put this brick?
With the help of the example of some fellow CF member, I came up with this:
It the frame of the ECU support you find in GM trucks.
I trimmed it down to what you see:

It straps to the coolant overflow tank.
The connector is stuck all the way back into the fender, but it's ok because the retainer mechanism still work on the support. So I can unclip it, pull it out and then disconnect it.

Stilll have the fusebox to locate, much easier job.

 

[rtj]

Wow, looks good. So close to finishing.....

 

[denpo]

Wow, looks good. So close to finishing.....

Thank you.

Indeed the list get shorter and shorter.
Namely :

Fuel Tank & Pump
Fan wiring
Clutch switch wiring
fuel/oil/water gauges.


The fuel part will be the last big step for sure.

 

[denpo]

Took one more bit off the monster's butt.
Made this weird piece:

So I can tuck the fusebox right beside the ECU.
No planning in that, just some dumb luck. Most of the wires on the top go back into the ecu, I'm out of wrapping tube for now. Bottom one goes directly to my fancy red box.

I'm really glad I decided to start using this Mig welder I bought myself for last Xmass. Before I would rely on other people to get my stuff welded, now for non critical part I consider doing them by myself, and that opens a lot of new horizons.