Adjustable Strut Rods

Dirtbuster1

Dirtbuster1

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Joined
May 13, 2008
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649
Location
Georgia
Does anyone recommend what adjustable strut rods to buy. Looks like I am going to have to buy some.

Thanks
 
Twin_Turbo said:
Does anyone make them with rubber bushed ends?
Click to expand...

I converted my smart struts to rubber bushings. I had to open up the bore on the ends a bit, but other than that, they worked just fine. Mike Dyer helped me with that one over the phone.
 
I got VBP poly-bushed rods: I have given up trying to keep both locknuts tight. As long as one is tight so the sleeve doesn't unscrew, the other end is free to pivot. I don't know what else to do except spherical ends, and that just ain't gonna happen for a long time, if ever. I suppose rubber bushings would help with that problem, but would introduce more slop into the camber setting--not that that would make any difference to the kind of driving I do.
 
So far I have only talked to VBP, and all they have is Poly. I kind of agrivated with Wilcox that I am in this postion to start with. Something wasn't made right, and I don't know what else to do.

Is there a problem with the poly bushings on the adjustable struts. What is the concern. Please don't let me make another mistake.:lol:

:sos:
 
I got mine (and kwplot34's) at Atlanta Corvette, Their parts store is "The Last Detail" . Right in your 'hood too. I think they were $109.

Fit great no hassle, and easy to adjust.
 
The strut rods and trailing arms pivot at 90* to each other. As the t-arm moves up and down it traces an arc. The strut rod, as it moves with the t-arm, is moving in a straight line. The t-arm twists the end of the strut rod. Spherical joints can roll freely, and rubber will distort to absorb this twisting motion, but poly bushings are so stiff that the whole end twists. This end is threaded into the adjuster sleeve and secured with a lock nut. The twist motion loosens the lock nut so the end can pivot. It's not going to come out or anything, it's probably only a minute or two of arc, but it's just not tight, which can lead to stresses & etc. Nothing for the likes of me to worry about, but racers would be concerned.
That said, I like my VBP strut rods. I have no "Smart Struts" bracket but I did put a 3/8" plate between the bracket & the diff per Herb Adam's Vette Improvement Program.
 
Thanks for the explanation guys. Sounds like rubber is the way to go. Now I just have to find someone that stocks them.

I'll check out Atlanta Corvette and see what they have.
 
Dirtbuster1 said:
Thanks for the explanation guys. Sounds like rubber is the way to go. Now I just have to find someone that stocks them.

I'll check out Atlanta Corvette and see what they have.
Click to expand...

along with the complete suspension rebuild when buying my '72 some 14 years ago was the install of VBP struts....the OEM poly was fine for some years, but it finally did fail....I did have some troubles with the nutz backing off when/after changing the bushings....so what I did was get the car on the ground and really tighten hell out of them....

I feel that one end being constantly working those threads which were not designed as a wear item, will eventually come loose outta there, with cat ass troph ick problems.....:(:cry:
 
I keep looking, but no one out there seems to have any with rubber bushings. I have asked them to check there vendors to see if they will make any.

I keep everyone updated!
 
mrvette said:
Dirtbuster1 said:
Thanks for the explanation guys. Sounds like rubber is the way to go. Now I just have to find someone that stocks them.

I'll check out Atlanta Corvette and see what they have.
Click to expand...

along with the complete suspension rebuild when buying my '72 some 14 years ago was the install of VBP struts....the OEM poly was fine for some years, but it finally did fail....I did have some troubles with the nutz backing off when/after changing the bushings....so what I did was get the car on the ground and really tighten hell out of them....

I feel that one end being constantly working those threads which were not designed as a wear item, will eventually come loose outta there, with cat ass troph ick problems.....:(:cry:
Click to expand...

Gene, what about a little loctite purple or blue? That should keep the nut from turning.
 
I used anti-sieze on all that stuff, so I know that's part of why they won't stay locked. I keep telling myself I should buy another set of nuts from VBP so I can double nut them, but I never get around to it....Do you think locktite would hold against the torque of the swingarm movement?
 
JPhil said:
I used anti-sieze on all that stuff, so I know that's part of why they won't stay locked. I keep telling myself I should buy another set of nuts from VBP so I can double nut them, but I never get around to it....Do you think locktite would hold against the torque of the swingarm movement?
Click to expand...

Loctite 271 should work great. The key with loctite is to have really clean threads before you apply it. I remember when I was rebuilding my diff and had to remove the ring gear again during assembly. The impact gun had to work quite a bit before they zipped out of the holes. Its worth a shot.
 
I hope this adds to the discussion, and not distracts.

I have smart struts ordered... too late to cancel :)

Can the ends be replaced with Heim joints? and if so... "should" they be? From reading the thread, it sounds like a good cheap solution?

Cj
 
Cj_ said:
I hope this adds to the discussion, and not distracts.

I have smart struts ordered... too late to cancel :)

Can the ends be replaced with Heim joints? and if so... "should" they be? From reading the thread, it sounds like a good cheap solution?

Cj
Click to expand...


I'm not sure with what a Heim joint is. I guessing it might be what TT calls a Johnny Joint. I'm glad to be done with the strut installation. Having a lift to would make life a hole lot easier.

Adjustment to the camber now is a piece of cake!
 
A heim end is a spherical end, yes you can use 5/8 heims. For outboard you'll need 5/8 hole & thread, inboard you'll need the same or 1/2" hole 5/8 thread or even smaller depending on what bolt you'll end up using.

A johnny joiny joint is a crossbreed, a poly bushed spherical end (not steel on steel). Too bad they don't make those small johnny joints, they would be dieal for those areas as well.
 
not much too add...other then if you want to use lock tite on clean threads hit them with brake clean or ....that stuff will take all of the grease off of anything and give you a dry clean surface.
 
Cj_ said:
I hope this adds to the discussion, and not distracts.

I have smart struts ordered... too late to cancel :)

Can the ends be replaced with Heim joints? and if so... "should" they be? From reading the thread, it sounds like a good cheap solution?

Cj
Click to expand...

I don't think heim joints are the right choice for street. They would be great for a race car, but would wear too fast on a street car. My 2 cents.
 
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