Adjustable Strut Rods

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They fit ok. I had to use spacers. Speedway motors has spacers but my dumb ass forgot to order them with the heims, I drilled out 1 nut for each side of the shock mounts and I think I used washers for the bracket side. I can snap a couple of pics if you want.
 
Made some stainless spacers.
Everything moves very well with no play

LowerStrut.jpg


UpperStrut.jpg


Old struts worn

Original2.jpg


Original1.jpg
 
Old struts worn

Original2.jpg

:eek: those suckers are spent! I made a set of HD struts with heim joints (same ones posted before from speedway) last summer and still haven't got around to putting them on the car... Are you guys using the stock cam bolt in the bracket or using some small square plates with the hole drilled in the middle?

I'll get some pics when I get around to installing them. Hopefully in the next month.
 
Old struts worn



:eek: those suckers are spent! I made a set of HD struts with heim joints (same ones posted before from speedway) last summer and still haven't got around to putting them on the car... Are you guys using the stock cam bolt in the bracket or using some small square plates with the hole drilled in the middle?

I'll get some pics when I get around to installing them. Hopefully in the next month.

I have adjustables (not the heim joints). I'm using the plates that came with them.
 
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Use the square plates and remove the cam bolts. There will be no more worrying about them coming loose.
 
I have the adjustable struts with heim joint ends. I bought them from Tom's Differentials.

I bought some VBP Smart Struts, but never used them. I didn't like them because

(1) the normal up and down motion of the trailing arms tends to loosen up the outboard bushing holders (the lock nut works loose)

(2) I've heard that sometimes the outboard bushing holders; a steel ring, with the bushings inside, that's welded to the screw threaded stud, can fracture due to stress. The steel ring fractures at the weld joint with the stud.

(3) And then there's the VBP differential attach flange with the four bolt holes drilled in it.... the bolt holes are larger then needed. Compare with the stock attach flange and you'll immediately see how much bigger these holes are than stock. This creates the possibility of the flange shifting during the shock of a launch at the drag strip and breaking something. (as explained to me by Kenny at Tom's) Tom's adjustable strut rod assembly uses a modified factory differential attach flange to take advantage of the factory accurate dimensions.

Maybe the smart struts need to go back to school.
 

I took a look at my stock strut bracket and it looks like the cam bolt is only 1/2" diameter. I had heard it was 5/8", so when I made my strut rods I used 5/8" heims and made the hole in the square plates 5/8" to match. But then this picture looks like a stock bracket and 5/8" bolt and from what I recall, the bushings in the stock struts are all the same ID.

Are the slots in the stock strut bracket 5/8" or 1/2"? If they're 1/2" I'll be back to the drawing board.
 
Are the slots in the stock strut bracket 5/8" or 1/2"? If they're 1/2" I'll be back to the drawing board.

Looks like it back to the drawing board. The slots in the stock bracket are 1/2".

well, son of a bitch. I'm not too keen on drilling out the stock bracket. Maybe I can find one on ebay for cheap. Thanks for the heads up
 

I took a look at my stock strut bracket and it looks like the cam bolt is only 1/2" diameter. I had heard it was 5/8", so when I made my strut rods I used 5/8" heims and made the hole in the square plates 5/8" to match. But then this picture looks like a stock bracket and 5/8" bolt and from what I recall, the bushings in the stock struts are all the same ID.

Are the slots in the stock strut bracket 5/8" or 1/2"? If they're 1/2" I'll be back to the drawing board.


I welded 1/8" steel between the stock cam guides and welded the 1/2" slotted hole full too and then drilled out to 5/8" to use the 5/8" heims.

Not that big a deal. It's a good enough improvement that you will never go back anyway and if so, you can always look for an original mount.
 
Most of this has been said already, but I though I would post anyway

I installed a set of heim jointed strut rods while I was re-doing the rear end for a little over $100. Just make sure you use the heavy duty heim joints and stay away from grease fittings.
2 - 5/8hole X 5/8 Thread (Speedway Motors)
2 - 1/2Hole X 5/8 Thread (Speedway Motors)
2 - 13" long Swedged Steel Tubing (Speedway Motors)
1/8" steel plate to make plates for inner bracket (Lowe's)
5/8 and 1/2" round spacers cut to length (Lowe's)

I just got the car back on the road with this set up so I can't speak on the longetivity, but I plan on checking them fairly often. I can try to post pics if needed, but I don't have any right now.
Hope this helps.
 
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