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I'm not "there" yet, but your efforts give me an approximate timeline and pseudo parts list to work with as a guide. Expect it will take longer than you.
:thumbs:

My goal is by first snow to have this done.... there's more then a little sarcasm in that estimate.

I've got a real shot at making it before the first snow - in Phoenix. May not occur this year. :drink:

Pappy

snow usually happens just after Christmas. We're so close to the Pacific Ocean that it moderates the temps - if the Puget Sound didn't happen, we'd have snow about the same time as Denver..... because it exists, we get snow events but it's almost funny how rare major events are - south of us (Oregon) tends to get more snow. That said, if we get hit... we can have one winter where we might get a few inches and about a week total of snow and the next winter several feet that comes in December and doesn't leave until March.
 
went out and bedded the new brakes.... they work excellent
then needed to mark TDC in a way I can actually see it to time it - first, get to TDC... well, I guess that will do
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amazingly hard to get this in placeedited
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good news, I know where the oil leak is.... bad news, not sure I can fix it
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and now my most favorite job ever... wiring
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soon, headlights
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the finish of tonight was this is the last step (install the switch)
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in annoyances... my dipstick is broke
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I spent part of the weekend with the kid whose pictures I've featured - in that we set timing and changed the oil... so not a lot done but a lot done
today, started working on the radio plate....
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I'm still not there with the lights.... but today's issue was wrong switch... that said, I need to spend more time on it to make it reliable
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here's the link on Facebook... only reason I'm putting anything about this up is this kid is both talented and overcoming challenges...

hope this link works... if not, let me know
https://www.facebook.com/groups/Ant...7&notif_t=feedback_reaction_generic&ref=notif
 
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Today's fail was brought to you by FiTech.edited Those who know my '40 know this fail....edited
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so a bit of background - FiTech said disconnect the stuck injector.... which is great if you have an allen wrench and a -6 AN wrench.... or wire cutters.... unless, of course, the one stupid injector's wiring is buried so you can't cut it....edited
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tow truck it is.edited And just like the '40, I got it home and it runs fine..... but there for awhile it was old-faithful with fuel blowing out of the front, right venturi.

one of my friends thinks it was because I was mocking Subarus... don't know the relevance? FiTech injectors are Subaru injectors...edited
 
break every warranty.edited I'm slightly annoyed that the warranty on these is only a year - a pro tip is buy the FiTech (or whatever) the day before you start shaking it down
I think that an injector plugged, I'll order another but it's a bit annoying that I need to carry extra proprietary injectors with me when the car has 49 miles on it
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because I'm annoyed a few secrets are going to be shared... first, all handhelds work with all computers and the software is contained on a microSD card
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oops, it fell apart
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when you take it apart - the older version - you have to gently pry the joy stick knob off
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like this
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The cause of this is that I was told to blow dust our from around the joystick (without taking it apart - which pretty much guaranteed it was coming apart)
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anyone see the design flaw?edited yeah, no seal around the joystick
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the touchscreen has a seal, but not the joystick so dust and crap can get in there.... would have been good to know before I painted the damn car..but back to the 'buy this last'.... don't be me - buy the FiTech last (and I still recommend them because I've heard a nasty rumor that the injectors are actually WRX)
I'll get a part number soon - they're 38mm 62# injectors for the 800 30008 fitech, they're 38mm 42# for the 600 hp version.... one interesting thing, if you want to run stacks, it'd be dead simply to use the FiTech system to run it.... why, you may ask, well... I might be considering such a dastardly thing

in other less annoying news, signals and driving lights are next.edited I want to hide these in the air inlets so the headlights don't, actually, ever 'have' to deploy.
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in other fixes.... oil dipstick fell apart... I could fix this but I've decided I don't like flexible shafts
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a stiffer rod
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FGZ in 3...2...1....
also bought a car cover
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dipstick fix
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weird issue... the tach on the Dakota Digital didn't work because it was hooked the grey tack wire rather then to the coil
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on to fun stuff... signal/lights
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basically they're just motorcycle lights but they are fog and driving
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wasted effort in 3
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2
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1 1/2
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... light but no flash (and backwards wires)
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Definitely not a good place for an Old Faithful style geyser. At least you were able to catch it with no fire. Nice progress otherwise!
 
For those wishing a comparison of sidepipes

Old hotness
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToYTPPmK51Y[/ame]
new hotness
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1o21nLogupk[/ame]
 
A cruise in the country yesterday. Too much traffic, but the last bit when I chase down the Tesla - those are not... umm.. legal speeds (35 mph zone)... the start I'm going 40-50, I'm not saying how fast I was going when I chased him down

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XW8YAo27Yno[/ame]
 
the sound of a 427 with sidepipes is pretty spiritual

and it's a brick, again
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warranty work to fix this
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dj4Ibmk1kMA[/ame]
 
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​Spark plugs.

When I built the motor, I wasn't that concerned.... so I bought the 'stock' plug for the 85 454 block.... rc12yc.... which is a fairly hot plug... the range is rc14yc as hottest plug, rc7yc as the coldest. A stock 454/427 late 60s/early 70s calls for a rc8yc (not the correct plug but illustrates the cold range)

the 85 454 has a 8.5 compression, the 70 454 has 11:1 (roughly). With that said, I have aluminum heads... my guess would be make it warmer, Champion suggests going from a 14 to a 4 (basically hottest to the coldest they make).... hmmmm.... looks like I need more data points.

I'll try a 9 or even a 10 next... at this point, I'm a bit concerned about detonation - it has a nice burn pattern and color (a bit rich)

more info

 
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Just got off the phone with FiTech.They say the jets were misdrilled in the throttle body (it really looks like a super-sized annular discharge).edited They're sending a brand new throttle body with new computer and new injectors to replace it.Keep in mind, this is 6 months out of warranty.... I've said it before, I'll say it again... don't buy an EFI based upon their sales pitch, buy based upon their customer service.... and let's frame that, my EZ EFI, I dialed their customer service, it put me on hold for 2 days.Basically I called, put me through then put me on hold until I gave up 2 days later. Yeah, EZ EFI, that's MSD... which is Holley.
 
working on the headlight motors
so the other brackets - the motor needs to have a steeper angle to start the push otherwise they stall... so the aluminum brackets started
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drill for a pin
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also the push rod cannot be straight
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installed
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it works far better, now I need to install limit switches
 
I'm back in the noise business

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they replaced the throttle body, computer, and injectors on their dime... to remind, this was out-of-warranty but the right thing to do - and they did it.editededited
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no more spray out the top, no clicking noise... I may be going to another car show tomorrow, so if it doesn't actively rain - I'll drive this

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mandatory tool.
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after watching the latest Binky, I think I'm going to get a wet-system for my car. I used to install commercial, kitchen fire systems (Range Guard) - I think I'm going to basically meld the Binky system with true fusible links (thus it will set the system off without need for human interaction (outside of pulling the pin to arm the system only when I want it armed).

how detailed will I be? hmm, I'll get back to you - likely I'll only detail here on VetteMod....
 
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mandatory tool.
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after watching the latest Binky, I think I'm going to get a wet-system for my car. I used to install commercial, kitchen fire systems (Range Guard) - I think I'm going to basically meld the Binky system with true fusible links (thus it will set the system off without need for human interaction (outside of pulling the pin to arm the system only when I want it armed).

how detailed will I be? hmm, I'll get back to you - likely I'll only detail here on VetteMod....

Very interested in seeing what you do. I was thinking of installing some type of fire suppression as well. I'm in the fire pump business but I don't think I'll be able to utilize any of my knowledge with an on board wet system.
 
Yes! I'm putting one in (as soon as I get to that point).
I left my 'vette with my Brother-in-Law when we went to mexico. Two years later he sends me these pics.

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On their way home from dinner one nite, at a stop light - sparks in the dash and then fire - ran the light to the MacDees, brow-beat the manager into giving him an extinguisher. He got the fire out before the Smoke-Eaters got there. Their comment - "Oh, we show up and these cars are melted down to the wheels."

I'm looking hard at the ESS Aqueous Film Forming Foam Systems. DIY for the recharge, and seem to have a good rep. 3 zones/4 nozzles around $600.
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Not associated - just the first image I got - but have used them for other items too.

Cheers - Jim
 
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