My '75

[greg75vette]

Forgive my ignorance and minor sidebar distraction - who's "Lift" is that?
What are your overall impressions? Looks a lot more secure than using super tall jacks. Is one end hinged, and then you use the floor jacks to lift the other end? If you have a name/link - I'll stop asking questions...

Cheers - Jim

No worries, Jim. It's a Kwiklift. Basically they're simple ramps that pivot where the 'end boxes' are. There's a black bar that runs across the front, connecting the two ramps. You use a floor jack (needs at least 20" lift) to lift it up and then you kick out some feet that fold under each ramp. This raises the car up 20", which is enough to reach everything comfortably. I believe this model supports up to 5000lb and has held up well to being outside for most of its life.
I bought it used 3 or so years ago and got a nice deal. Unfortunately, they were a bit expensive at about $1300 new and went out of business a year or so ago.
They're a nice option for someone who can't fit a full size lift. I was looking for a scissor lift when I came across the Kwiklift and liked the fact that there's no hydraulic component. Since I knew this would be in the elements for a number of years, that was a huge plus. However, it can be a bit of a pain to get a car on and off by yourself, especially if the vehicle isn't running. I have plans to attach a winch to it to load and unload it. That should make it a one man operation.

 

[greg75vette]

Made some more progress since the last post, but nothing worthy of a picture. I ordered some 'new' parts
-Replacement gauges (water temp and fuel level) that were damaged in the flood from Sandy
-OBDII port
-Replacement 3 wire MAF with 30k on it out of a GTO. Again, the first one I had was in the flood.

I replaced the gauges in my center console and checked the wiring. I then retraced my wiring steps and where I left it two years ago. I'm glad I kept good, thorough notes. I began lining up and crimping on disconnects to all of my connections between the clusters, the original harness, engine harness and, finally, the new sensors. Did I mentions good notes were key?

I paused when I ran out of disconnects, but I'll pick some up tomorrow. I still need to decide where to put the OBDII port. I think it'll wind up in the passenger foot well, behind the dash and facing down so it's not too visible, but not too far from the driver's reach.

Once the last few disconnects are installed, I should be done with most of the wiring. I need to find a way to ground the engine to the frame and check the starter wiring to make sure I have it correct. Once that is done, the wiring should be complete :yahoo::yahoo::yahoo:

I also almost have the throttle body cable finished. I need to trim it a bit so it looks a little cleaner. That'll be a quick job.

I think I figured out my steam line route and will most likely route it to the heater hose feed. I need some new heater hoses, as well. I have the rad hoses and should be able to install them soon.

I haven't touched the fuel lines all weekend. I'm still not sure what my final route to the engine will be, but I'm getting closer. Once the wiring is done, the fuel lines become critical path.

Here's a rough checklist of things to come:

• Finish wiring
• decide on fuel line route and install
• re-oil engine, remove spark plugs and fuel pump fuse
• check starter and turn over until oil pressure is registering
• replace plugs and fuel pump fuse for test fire
• drink many beers, regardless of success or failure of test fire
• route cooling lines and fill cooling system
• try and make the dreaded power steering lines and fill that system
• route serp belt and fire the engine for a real test
• drop rear end to install drive shaft
• ???
• profit

There's a lot more stuff that'll need to be done, but that's mostly details that aren't worth mentioning or are aren't critical to the project running.

'Til next time...:goodnight:

 

[greg75vette]

Spent a little more time this week on Pandora.
-I finished the throttle cable after taking about 8" out of it.
-I ordered a few more parts that I needed.
-Might have my power steering lines sorted, thanks to Karsten in this thread.
-I spent way too long on my starter wiring, and didn't get the car to turn over :cussing: Since I'm using the original charging and starting circuit, I thought this would be easy. One thing I didn't do well during my tear down and is mark or take note of what wire was where on the original starter. Oops.

The first way I had it hooked up, I had the proper + cables to the right lug on the starter, but had the purple starter wire there too. I had a ground on the start lug :skeptic: Second try, I had the purple start wire on the start lug and had the +cables on the right lug of the starter. I did a makeshift ground to the mystery ground wire in the starter loom and double checked my block to chassis ground (sanded the POR15 to get a good connection). Still nothing. I pulled the clutch depression switch plug and jumped it, thinking that was the issue since pedal no longer goes to the floor (my clutch MC has a shorter throw) and again I got nothing. The lights and buzzer in the cab work, but not even a solenoid click. :hunter: So, on a whim, I tried to operate the window...slow as molasses. I think the battery just doesn't have enough charge. At least that's the hope. I don't why I thought the battery would have a charge after sitting for 4 years. Sometimes, I wonder.

I wanted to attack my fuel lines, but didn't have the time. I'll work on them next as the battery charges.

 

[denpo]

The first way I had it hooked up, I had the proper + cables to the right lug on the starter, but had the purple starter wire there too. I had a ground on the start lug :skeptic: Second try, I had the purple start wire on the start lug and had the +cables on the right lug of the starter. I did a makeshift ground to the mystery ground wire in the starter loom and double checked my block to chassis ground (sanded the POR15 to get a good connection). Still nothing. I pulled the clutch depression switch plug and jumped it, thinking that was the issue since pedal no longer goes to the floor (my clutch MC has a shorter throw) and again I got nothing. The lights and buzzer in the cab work, but not even a solenoid click. :hunter: So, on a whim, I tried to operate the window...slow as molasses. I think the battery just doesn't have enough charge. At least that's the hope. I don't why I thought the battery would have a charge after sitting for 4 years. Sometimes, I wonder.

Made me thing of me spending the entire weekend chasing an electric bug.
Crazy how electric work on a car can be frustrating :banghead:.
A missing ground and the whole system does 'funny' things.

 

[greg75vette]

It's my biggest fear. I don't like wiring, and with all of the tight areas of the vette, it just kills me. Taking out the leads to the clutch switch was loads of fun. Luckily, it wasn't unplugged for long and the wires still had memory. It popped right on.

I'm not a small guy and my arms are too long for my body. That all adds to the difficulty at times. Then mix in a wire gremlin? :surrender::goodnight:

I just hope it is the battery and this is my last wiring issue. Otherwise, it'll be a long, cold winter.

 

[greg75vette]

A quick update: I had an extended holiday in order to spend a little more time with the Baby and take a bit of a rest. I didn't work from Wednesday to Sunday, but that doesn't mean we weren't busy. I have some sort of cold thing I'm trying to beat as well, so the vette didn't stand a chance, really...

I did manage to steal my Father's Battery Tender on Thursday. It took a few days, but the battery did charge. I finally had a moment yesterday to see if she word turn over.

I put the the clutch down turned the key and nothing. I then pressed a little harder on the clutch and got the solenoid to click. Great! that means it must be the clutch safety switch. I pulled the plug and jumped it. I tried the key again. Turned right over!

So, the starter appears to be wired up correctly now, but I'm not sure what to do with the clutch switch. I'll need to make a longer actuator arm or simply just bypass it. I haven't decided yet. The mystery ground with the starter wiring seems to be for the wipers. I had an issue with the system turning off and this wire is damaged. I think heat did it, so I'll trace back to where it is good and rerun the wire to somewhere else. I might run it to where the LS1 fuse box is grounded on the chassis.

So not much, but steps in the right direction.

 

[phantomjock]

Congratulations on the start up - and thanks for the words on the KwikLift. I'll keep my eyes open for resales. Else, I may end up with a Scissor Jack.

Cheers - Jim

 

[MYBAD79]

Did it only turn over or actually start ??? Nevertheless, progress is progress.... Hope to see a video here for the actual start and first drive !!!

 

[greg75vette]

Congratulations on the start up - and thanks for the words on the KwikLift. I'll keep my eyes open for resales. Else, I may end up with a Scissor Jack.

Cheers - Jim

I need to correct what I wrote. They actually restarted! I found out on CF the other week and forgot to update my post. Here's their new site: http://kwik-lift.com/index.html

Did it only turn over or actually start ??? Nevertheless, progress is progress.... Hope to see a video here for the actual start and first drive !!!

Oh no, not a real start. I'm not there yet! I only had the starter wiring hooked up to make sure she can turn over and the battery was sufficient.
-The LS1 fuse box is not powered up yet (just need to slide onto the starter power lug)
-I need to finish hooking up the gauge wiring to the car (about 10 disconnects left)
-hook up the OBD2 port and VATS module
-I need to run the fuel line and power to the fuel pump.
-Need to do an oil change

After those I can pull the fuel pump fuse and plugs and turn her over until I get oil pressure. I'll reinstall the plugs and fuse and try for a test fire. If successful:
-I'll yank the computer to be tuned
-pull the engine harnesses to be wrapped
-mount the dash and consoles since the gauges should be functional
-install the cooling system hoses
-install the PS hoses and serp belt
-reinstall computer and try for a real fire and see how well she runs.

Then I have to pull the rear end out--again--to install the driveshaft. Then, hopefully, she can have her first run. And that's just the basics. I still have a bunch of cosmetic stuff to do here and here :lol:

It seems like I'm so close, but yet I'm miles away. I still hope to have the engine fully hooked up by Christmas, but we'll see.

 

[gabbett1]

Where did you get those rear end components from? Looks like Tom's Kick Ass differentials.

 

[greg75vette]

Those are Tom's parts but I got them from Gary on here. He redid my whole rear end.

 

[greg75vette]

Ultimate Necro bump. I had to leave cars behind as life got very complicated. I'm finally getting back into them. I hate to see the forum in the shape it's in :crutches:

 

[phantomjock]

Well understood! I too am getting a restart. Welcome back.
Cheers - Jim

 

[greg75vette]

Thanks! Hopefully I can get to this car soon and provide actual content.

 

[GT6Steve]

How much electronics has to come with an LS engine? And where can it fit? LOL

 

[greg75vette]

It really depends on what direction you go in. You can:
- Run it like any SBC.
They may intakes to fit carbs and I believe even ones that adapt a distributor. Though a carb plus an 'ignition module" tucked into the intake area is pretty popular. You can adapt all senor points for stock 'old school' gauges, or your new ones. Any sensors that an ECU would need or care about can be forgotten.

-Run it like it came.
This is my favorite. When I bought the engine I had them pull the original ECU and engine wiring harness. I reference it somewhere in this thread, but if you get a separate fuse block, you can power the new and swap harness to make a stand alone set up. The harness only needs about 6 wires for always hot, IGN +, GND, etc. Additional sensors can be added for gauges, so the gauges don't always need to talk to the ECU. You can also strip the harness down (like I did) of all systems you aren't using. Any 'extraneous emissions', A/C, etc can be taken out. LS1tech has a LOT of stickies in their swap section on what is needed and where it goes in the harness.

-A little from Column A and little from Column B
This is probably the best if you're not into wiring and have the extra money. You can buy stand alone harnesses (what was made in Option 2) that can come with or without an ECU. Some can even be custom configured if you have some odd-ball request. You can also buy these with extended looms so you can but the new fuse box and ECU somewhere else out of the engine bay. GM even makes these that give everything you'd need to get it going, including a drive-by-wire pedal if you had an electric throttle body. Mine's cable. Prices (when I looked over 5 years ago) were ~$400 to $1500, depending on shop and accessories.
-The simplest, but the worst
You could also get an aftermarket FI system like the ones you can get for SBCs. These are brainless to install, but have the most drawbacks. They're typically expensive, they aren't as adaptable as the FI that came on the engine, you're locked into them as a tuner, they're typically TBI, not port injection (not always), which isn't as efficient as a design. I think these are fine for an OG carbed SBC/BBC, but seems like such a backwards step for an LSx.

I feel Options 2 and 3 are the best. If I did it all over again, I'd probably do Option 3 over 2. Simply because they're brand new tested harnesses. My hardness was nearly a decade old when I got it. Now its 20. How much longer is the wiring going to last before it's a danger? Now if I finished the swap on time, it wouldn't have been a concern! With that said, if you use the stock harness or use a stock length, the fuse block and ECU are best in the engine bay. I have mine near the heater box, mounted on the fender. I know others have mounted them under the dash or in the passenger behind-the-seat storage box with either bought or self-made extended looms.

 

[rtj]

I hate to see the forum in the shape it's in :crutches:

All the car forums are slowing down it seems. There are a few really good projects here.

Good luck with the restarted project.

 

[greg75vette]

I hate to see the forum in the shape it's in :crutches:

All the car forums are slowing down it seems. There are a few really good projects here.

Good luck with the restarted project.

Forums in general are getting low. Somehow, social media has cut down traffic, but I just don't understand how. Forums are great for history and tutorials to name a few and both can't be done well on any SM I've seen.

Thanks I'll need it!

 

[GT6Steve]

Thanx for the excellent mini tutorial. I want to do this...

 

[greg75vette]

DOIT

It's not too complicated. I've had some more hiccups due to my transmission choice. The engine and aftermarket is pretty supportive these days.

 

[phantomjock]

following the build...

Speaking of "restart," I went back to the beginning of your "rebuild."

I noted you kept/added an ARB on the front end. I was going to just use the composite transverse spring in that role. Any real life experience - either way. Inquiring minds want to know - OK nosy people too.

BTW - I think all vehicles should be named -- Is she still "Pandora?" Awesome choice.

Cheers - Jim

 

[greg75vette]

ARB? I'm not familiar with that acronym.

But I did love the suspension when she was up and running. I didn't do any crazy alignment, kept the old tires you see and could not believe how well it felt. Everything was planted and controlled.

Specifically to the front end, I did like the reduction in unsprung weight (I believe it was you mentioning that in another thread), the right height control and the fairly easy way to swap out different spring rates by adjusting the mounting point or swapping the spring entirely. I don't recall what mine is.

With that said, once I get her mobile again, I'll have to reassess. I wound up softening the spring mounts front and rear and I'll probably raise her an inch or so. Mostly for my wife. I'll also have to replace the spring, as when it was moved to to my new home, my father's friend used it as a tie-down point :bomb: I don't see damage, but I feel it's the right thing to do.

As for names, yes! We name all of our cars, and hers will forever be Pandora since I don't think she'll ever be finished for good. Thanks for the compliment.
The other cars in the fleet are Blue Streak for the WRX (the worst name by far, but has an explanation), Culprit for the Z28 (my Uncle's name for her), Sydney for the SS (she's a Holden by birth, afterall), and Penny for the minivan :2nd:

 

[phantomjock]

Cool

ARB = Anti-Roll Bar. When you get her running again, it would be interesting to do some runs with it connected - then with it loose on one side. A quick chance to see if that extra weight is worth carrying around up there. Might be - might not. Bet you'd note either way.

Cheers - Jim

 

[greg75vette]

Ha! never in a million years would I have guessed that. I was thinking A-arms or something along those lines.

I forget the spec of the bar, but it is thicker than stock. I know the rear is more substantial. I credit the rear bar with a lot of the handling as he tracked better in a corner. Granted this was all street driving. It'll be awhile before she's back on the road, though. The list has only grown due to age. The tires are barely rubber, for example.