Adjustable Strut Rods

Dirtbuster1 · May 20, 2008

Does anyone recommend what adjustable strut rods to buy. Looks like I am going to have to buy some.

Thanks

Twin_Turbo · May 20, 2008

Does anyone make them with rubber bushed ends?

stinger12 · May 20, 2008

Twin_Turbo said:
Does anyone make them with rubber bushed ends?

I converted my smart struts to rubber bushings. I had to open up the bore on the ends a bit, but other than that, they worked just fine. Mike Dyer helped me with that one over the phone.

gkull · May 20, 2008

Twin_Turbo said:
Does anyone make them with rubber bushed ends?

I have the Smart Struts with Poly ends. Some days I wished that I had bought the heim spherical metal ends.

JPhil · May 20, 2008

I got VBP poly-bushed rods: I have given up trying to keep both locknuts tight. As long as one is tight so the sleeve doesn't unscrew, the other end is free to pivot. I don't know what else to do except spherical ends, and that just ain't gonna happen for a long time, if ever. I suppose rubber bushings would help with that problem, but would introduce more slop into the camber setting--not that that would make any difference to the kind of driving I do.

Dirtbuster1 · May 20, 2008

So far I have only talked to VBP, and all they have is Poly. I kind of agrivated with Wilcox that I am in this postion to start with. Something wasn't made right, and I don't know what else to do.

Is there a problem with the poly bushings on the adjustable struts. What is the concern. Please don't let me make another mistake.:lol:

:sos:

TimAT · May 20, 2008

I got mine (and kwplot34's) at Atlanta Corvette, Their parts store is "The Last Detail" . Right in your 'hood too. I think they were $109.

Fit great no hassle, and easy to adjust.

JPhil · May 20, 2008

The strut rods and trailing arms pivot at 90* to each other. As the t-arm moves up and down it traces an arc. The strut rod, as it moves with the t-arm, is moving in a straight line. The t-arm twists the end of the strut rod. Spherical joints can roll freely, and rubber will distort to absorb this twisting motion, but poly bushings are so stiff that the whole end twists. This end is threaded into the adjuster sleeve and secured with a lock nut. The twist motion loosens the lock nut so the end can pivot. It's not going to come out or anything, it's probably only a minute or two of arc, but it's just not tight, which can lead to stresses & etc. Nothing for the likes of me to worry about, but racers would be concerned.
That said, I like my VBP strut rods. I have no "Smart Struts" bracket but I did put a 3/8" plate between the bracket & the diff per Herb Adam's Vette Improvement Program.

Dirtbuster1 · May 20, 2008

Thanks for the explanation guys. Sounds like rubber is the way to go. Now I just have to find someone that stocks them.

I'll check out Atlanta Corvette and see what they have.

mrvette · May 21, 2008

Dirtbuster1 said:
Thanks for the explanation guys. Sounds like rubber is the way to go. Now I just have to find someone that stocks them.

I'll check out Atlanta Corvette and see what they have.

along with the complete suspension rebuild when buying my '72 some 14 years ago was the install of VBP struts....the OEM poly was fine for some years, but it finally did fail....I did have some troubles with the nutz backing off when/after changing the bushings....so what I did was get the car on the ground and really tighten hell out of them....

I feel that one end being constantly working those threads which were not designed as a wear item, will eventually come loose outta there, with cat ass troph ick problems.....

Dirtbuster1 · May 21, 2008

I keep looking, but no one out there seems to have any with rubber bushings. I have asked them to check there vendors to see if they will make any.

I keep everyone updated!

SmokinBBC · May 21, 2008

mrvette said:
Dirtbuster1 said:

Thanks for the explanation guys. Sounds like rubber is the way to go. Now I just have to find someone that stocks them.

I'll check out Atlanta Corvette and see what they have.

Click to expand...

along with the complete suspension rebuild when buying my '72 some 14 years ago was the install of VBP struts....the OEM poly was fine for some years, but it finally did fail....I did have some troubles with the nutz backing off when/after changing the bushings....so what I did was get the car on the ground and really tighten hell out of them....

I feel that one end being constantly working those threads which were not designed as a wear item, will eventually come loose outta there, with cat ass troph ick problems.....

Gene, what about a little loctite purple or blue? That should keep the nut from turning.

JPhil · May 22, 2008

I used anti-sieze on all that stuff, so I know that's part of why they won't stay locked. I keep telling myself I should buy another set of nuts from VBP so I can double nut them, but I never get around to it....Do you think locktite would hold against the torque of the swingarm movement?

Yellow73SB · May 22, 2008

I have an old set with no bushings

Wonder how much I could sell them for

stinger12 · May 22, 2008

JPhil said:
I used anti-sieze on all that stuff, so I know that's part of why they won't stay locked. I keep telling myself I should buy another set of nuts from VBP so I can double nut them, but I never get around to it....Do you think locktite would hold against the torque of the swingarm movement?

Loctite 271 should work great. The key with loctite is to have really clean threads before you apply it. I remember when I was rebuilding my diff and had to remove the ring gear again during assembly. The impact gun had to work quite a bit before they zipped out of the holes. Its worth a shot.

Cj_ · Jun 1, 2008

I hope this adds to the discussion, and not distracts.

I have smart struts ordered... too late to cancel

Can the ends be replaced with Heim joints? and if so... "should" they be? From reading the thread, it sounds like a good cheap solution?

Cj

Dirtbuster1 · Jun 1, 2008

Cj_ said:
I hope this adds to the discussion, and not distracts.

I have smart struts ordered... too late to cancel

Can the ends be replaced with Heim joints? and if so... "should" they be? From reading the thread, it sounds like a good cheap solution?

Cj

I'm not sure with what a Heim joint is. I guessing it might be what TT calls a Johnny Joint. I'm glad to be done with the strut installation. Having a lift to would make life a hole lot easier.

Adjustment to the camber now is a piece of cake!

Twin_Turbo · Jun 1, 2008

A heim end is a spherical end, yes you can use 5/8 heims. For outboard you'll need 5/8 hole & thread, inboard you'll need the same or 1/2" hole 5/8 thread or even smaller depending on what bolt you'll end up using.

A johnny joiny joint is a crossbreed, a poly bushed spherical end (not steel on steel). Too bad they don't make those small johnny joints, they would be dieal for those areas as well.

bobs77vet · Jun 1, 2008

not much too add...other then if you want to use lock tite on clean threads hit them with brake clean or ....that stuff will take all of the grease off of anything and give you a dry clean surface.

big2bird · Jun 1, 2008

Cj_ said:
I hope this adds to the discussion, and not distracts.

I have smart struts ordered... too late to cancel

Can the ends be replaced with Heim joints? and if so... "should" they be? From reading the thread, it sounds like a good cheap solution?

Cj

I don't think heim joints are the right choice for street. They would be great for a race car, but would wear too fast on a street car. My 2 cents.

stinger12 · Jun 2, 2008

Dirtbuster1 said:
I keep looking, but no one out there seems to have any with rubber bushings. I have asked them to check there vendors to see if they will make any.

I keep everyone updated!

Like I said, I converted mine to rubber with little to no effort. The strut's ends are too small for the rubber bushings. All you need to do is open up the ends so the rubber bushings are a slight press fit. You will not be able to press them in without ruining them unless you open up the bore on the ends. I'll post some pics of them installed on my smart struts. Mike Dyer told me how to convert them over the phone.

mrvette · Jun 2, 2008

SmokinBBC said:
[

Gene, what about a little loctite purple or blue? That should keep the nut from turning.

I don't recall if I used it or not, only been about 5 years....:waxer::tomato:
I use locktite RED never used anything else...it SAYS permanent, well, that's all BS as we know....

mrvette · Jun 2, 2008

stinger12 said:
Dirtbuster1 said:

I keep looking, but no one out there seems to have any with rubber bushings. I have asked them to check there vendors to see if they will make any.

I keep everyone updated!

Click to expand...

Like I said, I converted mine to rubber with little to no effort. The strut's ends are too small for the rubber bushings. All you need to do is open up the ends so the rubber bushings are a slight press fit. You will not be able to press them in without ruining them unless you open up the bore on the ends. I'll post some pics of them installed on my smart struts. Mike Dyer told me how to convert them over the phone.

I keep putting it off but the front end squeeks like crazy with the urethane, and I"m tempted to take it all outta there this next time and replace with rubber while I have it down again cause the 15 y/old silicone lube has had it, lazy about it.....

but I would presume you take a brake hone to the eye loops and open them pu a tad for the rubber to slip in...maybe put some silicone on it....

or KY??

:banghead::shocking:

stinger12 · Jun 2, 2008

mrvette said:
stinger12 said:

Dirtbuster1 said:

I keep looking, but no one out there seems to have any with rubber bushings. I have asked them to check there vendors to see if they will make any.

I keep everyone updated!

Click to expand...

Like I said, I converted mine to rubber with little to no effort. The strut's ends are too small for the rubber bushings. All you need to do is open up the ends so the rubber bushings are a slight press fit. You will not be able to press them in without ruining them unless you open up the bore on the ends. I'll post some pics of them installed on my smart struts. Mike Dyer told me how to convert them over the phone.

Click to expand...

I keep putting it off but the front end squeeks like crazy with the urethane, and I"m tempted to take it all outta there this next time and replace with rubber while I have it down again cause the 15 y/old silicone lube has had it, lazy about it.....

but I would presume you take a brake hone to the eye loops and open them pu a tad for the rubber to slip in...maybe put some silicone on it....

or KY??

:banghead::shocking:

Unfortunately, a brake hone is too weak for this application. I tried it and all it did was make the surface shiny. Bascally, you use a die grinder with a grinding stone on it and go round-and-round in the eyelets to open them up. Now, this will not be a perfect circle anymore if you measure it with a dial caliper. If you have a bridgeport, you can open up the bore so it is a perfectly round circle. I don't own one. I used my grinding stone to open it up until the largest dimension that I measured in the ends was 7-8 thou less than the OD of the rubber bushings. I can't remember what that measurement was...I forget. Not the best tool to use, but like I said, I don't own a bridgeport mill.

The bushings aren't only rubber. There is a metal sleeve that the rubber is incased in. In the middle of this piece of rubber is a serrated metal tube which locks into the bearing support ears.

Twin_Turbo · Jun 2, 2008

A round flapper disc will enlarge that hole pretty quickly, just get a really coure one that is oversized and whith the drill spinning, feed it in the hole, then leave the drill running for a while

stinger12 · Jun 2, 2008

Twin_Turbo said:
A round flapper disc will enlarge that hole pretty quickly, just get a really coure one that is oversized and whith the drill spinning, feed it in the hole, then leave the drill running for a while

That will work too. I just didn't have an appropriate sized flapper wheel on hand, so I used the grinding stone.

big2bird · Jun 2, 2008

So just how much larger are we talking here? .005" .010"?

010752 · Jun 3, 2008

Twin_Turbo said:
A heim end is a spherical end, yes you can use 5/8 heims. For outboard you'll need 5/8 hole & thread, inboard you'll need the same or 1/2" hole 5/8 thread or even smaller depending on what bolt you'll end up using.

A johnny joiny joint is a crossbreed, a poly bushed spherical end (not steel on steel). Too bad they don't make those small johnny joints, they would be dieal for those areas as well.

Not sure if this is what you meant but these are what I used.
Here is the description.

These chrome moly rod ends have close tolerance and a 3 piece, extreme duty rod end. Heat treated, 4130 Chrome Moly steel body. Hard chrome, heat treated ball to support heavy shock loads. Injection molded Kevlar/teflon liner to seal out dirt and debris. Super strength chrome moly rod ends are available with same size shank and thru hole, as well as mixed size shank and thru hole.
Applications: Steering & Suspension For Racing & High Horsepower Applications. Kevlar/Teflon Race Reduces Slop & Eliminates Binding To Provide Smooth & Precise Movement Of Steering & Suspension. The Ultimate In Strength & Durability.

If anyone is interested, here are the part no's for the rear struts. A little over a hundered bucks.

stinger12 · Jun 3, 2008

big2bird said:
So just how much larger are we talking here? .005" .010"?

I can't remember now

ush:

bahamasair · Jun 7, 2008

I got the smart struts from VBP and didnt like the way they felt like they were binding when you move them through their travel so I got the heims from speedway and am happy with them now. The heims say they are perfect for suspension so I hope they wont wear too quick

Adjustable Strut Rods

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