Dirtbuster1
Well-known member
Does anyone recommend what adjustable strut rods to buy. Looks like I am going to have to buy some.
Thanks
Thanks
Adjustable Strut Rods
- Thread starter Dirtbuster1
- Start date
Help Support VetteMod Forum:
Twin_Turbo
Der Maulwurf
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2008
- Messages
- 7,575
- Reaction score
- 6
Does anyone make them with rubber bushed ends?
stinger12
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2008
- Messages
- 832
- Reaction score
- 0
I converted my smart struts to rubber bushings. I had to open up the bore on the ends a bit, but other than that, they worked just fine. Mike Dyer helped me with that one over the phone.
gkull
Well-known member
I have the Smart Struts with Poly ends. Some days I wished that I had bought the heim spherical metal ends.
JPhil
Huh?
I got VBP poly-bushed rods: I have given up trying to keep both locknuts tight. As long as one is tight so the sleeve doesn't unscrew, the other end is free to pivot. I don't know what else to do except spherical ends, and that just ain't gonna happen for a long time, if ever. I suppose rubber bushings would help with that problem, but would introduce more slop into the camber setting--not that that would make any difference to the kind of driving I do.
Dirtbuster1
Well-known member
So far I have only talked to VBP, and all they have is Poly. I kind of agrivated with Wilcox that I am in this postion to start with. Something wasn't made right, and I don't know what else to do.
Is there a problem with the poly bushings on the adjustable struts. What is the concern. Please don't let me make another mistake.:lol:
:sos:
Is there a problem with the poly bushings on the adjustable struts. What is the concern. Please don't let me make another mistake.:lol:
:sos:
TimAT
Addict, Cruise-In Bird-Run 1 Veteran
I got mine (and kwplot34's) at Atlanta Corvette, Their parts store is "The Last Detail" . Right in your 'hood too. I think they were $109.
Fit great no hassle, and easy to adjust.
Fit great no hassle, and easy to adjust.
JPhil
Huh?
The strut rods and trailing arms pivot at 90* to each other. As the t-arm moves up and down it traces an arc. The strut rod, as it moves with the t-arm, is moving in a straight line. The t-arm twists the end of the strut rod. Spherical joints can roll freely, and rubber will distort to absorb this twisting motion, but poly bushings are so stiff that the whole end twists. This end is threaded into the adjuster sleeve and secured with a lock nut. The twist motion loosens the lock nut so the end can pivot. It's not going to come out or anything, it's probably only a minute or two of arc, but it's just not tight, which can lead to stresses & etc. Nothing for the likes of me to worry about, but racers would be concerned.
That said, I like my VBP strut rods. I have no "Smart Struts" bracket but I did put a 3/8" plate between the bracket & the diff per Herb Adam's Vette Improvement Program.
That said, I like my VBP strut rods. I have no "Smart Struts" bracket but I did put a 3/8" plate between the bracket & the diff per Herb Adam's Vette Improvement Program.
Dirtbuster1
Well-known member
Thanks for the explanation guys. Sounds like rubber is the way to go. Now I just have to find someone that stocks them.
I'll check out Atlanta Corvette and see what they have.
I'll check out Atlanta Corvette and see what they have.
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
along with the complete suspension rebuild when buying my '72 some 14 years ago was the install of VBP struts....the OEM poly was fine for some years, but it finally did fail....I did have some troubles with the nutz backing off when/after changing the bushings....so what I did was get the car on the ground and really tighten hell out of them....
I feel that one end being constantly working those threads which were not designed as a wear item, will eventually come loose outta there, with cat ass troph ick problems.....
Dirtbuster1
Well-known member
I keep looking, but no one out there seems to have any with rubber bushings. I have asked them to check there vendors to see if they will make any.
I keep everyone updated!
I keep everyone updated!
SmokinBBC
Well-known member
along with the complete suspension rebuild when buying my '72 some 14 years ago was the install of VBP struts....the OEM poly was fine for some years, but it finally did fail....I did have some troubles with the nutz backing off when/after changing the bushings....so what I did was get the car on the ground and really tighten hell out of them....
I feel that one end being constantly working those threads which were not designed as a wear item, will eventually come loose outta there, with cat ass troph ick problems.....
Gene, what about a little loctite purple or blue? That should keep the nut from turning.
JPhil
Huh?
I used anti-sieze on all that stuff, so I know that's part of why they won't stay locked. I keep telling myself I should buy another set of nuts from VBP so I can double nut them, but I never get around to it....Do you think locktite would hold against the torque of the swingarm movement?
Yellow73SB
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2008
- Messages
- 1,201
- Reaction score
- 0
I have an old set with no bushings
Wonder how much I could sell them for
Wonder how much I could sell them for
stinger12
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2008
- Messages
- 832
- Reaction score
- 0
Loctite 271 should work great. The key with loctite is to have really clean threads before you apply it. I remember when I was rebuilding my diff and had to remove the ring gear again during assembly. The impact gun had to work quite a bit before they zipped out of the holes. Its worth a shot.
Cj_
Member
I hope this adds to the discussion, and not distracts.
I have smart struts ordered... too late to cancel
Can the ends be replaced with Heim joints? and if so... "should" they be? From reading the thread, it sounds like a good cheap solution?
Cj
I have smart struts ordered... too late to cancel
Can the ends be replaced with Heim joints? and if so... "should" they be? From reading the thread, it sounds like a good cheap solution?
Cj
Dirtbuster1
Well-known member
I hope this adds to the discussion, and not distracts.
I have smart struts ordered... too late to cancel
Can the ends be replaced with Heim joints? and if so... "should" they be? From reading the thread, it sounds like a good cheap solution?
Cj
I'm not sure with what a Heim joint is. I guessing it might be what TT calls a Johnny Joint. I'm glad to be done with the strut installation. Having a lift to would make life a hole lot easier.
Adjustment to the camber now is a piece of cake!
Twin_Turbo
Der Maulwurf
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2008
- Messages
- 7,575
- Reaction score
- 6
A heim end is a spherical end, yes you can use 5/8 heims. For outboard you'll need 5/8 hole & thread, inboard you'll need the same or 1/2" hole 5/8 thread or even smaller depending on what bolt you'll end up using.
A johnny joiny joint is a crossbreed, a poly bushed spherical end (not steel on steel). Too bad they don't make those small johnny joints, they would be dieal for those areas as well.
A johnny joiny joint is a crossbreed, a poly bushed spherical end (not steel on steel). Too bad they don't make those small johnny joints, they would be dieal for those areas as well.
bobs77vet
Well-known member
not much too add...other then if you want to use lock tite on clean threads hit them with brake clean or ....that stuff will take all of the grease off of anything and give you a dry clean surface.
big2bird
Charter Member, Founder Bird-Run, Cruise-In Bird-R
I hope this adds to the discussion, and not distracts.
I have smart struts ordered... too late to cancel
Can the ends be replaced with Heim joints? and if so... "should" they be? From reading the thread, it sounds like a good cheap solution?
Cj
I don't think heim joints are the right choice for street. They would be great for a race car, but would wear too fast on a street car. My 2 cents.
stinger12
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2008
- Messages
- 832
- Reaction score
- 0
Like I said, I converted mine to rubber with little to no effort. The strut's ends are too small for the rubber bushings. All you need to do is open up the ends so the rubber bushings are a slight press fit. You will not be able to press them in without ruining them unless you open up the bore on the ends. I'll post some pics of them installed on my smart struts. Mike Dyer told me how to convert them over the phone.
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
I don't recall if I used it or not, only been about 5 years....:waxer::tomato:
I use locktite RED never used anything else...it SAYS permanent, well, that's all BS as we know....
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
I keep putting it off but the front end squeeks like crazy with the urethane, and I"m tempted to take it all outta there this next time and replace with rubber while I have it down again cause the 15 y/old silicone lube has had it, lazy about it.....
but I would presume you take a brake hone to the eye loops and open them pu a tad for the rubber to slip in...maybe put some silicone on it....
or KY??
:banghead::shocking:
stinger12
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2008
- Messages
- 832
- Reaction score
- 0
Unfortunately, a brake hone is too weak for this application. I tried it and all it did was make the surface shiny. Bascally, you use a die grinder with a grinding stone on it and go round-and-round in the eyelets to open them up. Now, this will not be a perfect circle anymore if you measure it with a dial caliper. If you have a bridgeport, you can open up the bore so it is a perfectly round circle. I don't own one. I used my grinding stone to open it up until the largest dimension that I measured in the ends was 7-8 thou less than the OD of the rubber bushings. I can't remember what that measurement was...I forget. Not the best tool to use, but like I said, I don't own a bridgeport mill.
The bushings aren't only rubber. There is a metal sleeve that the rubber is incased in. In the middle of this piece of rubber is a serrated metal tube which locks into the bearing support ears.
Last edited:
Twin_Turbo
Der Maulwurf
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2008
- Messages
- 7,575
- Reaction score
- 6
A round flapper disc will enlarge that hole pretty quickly, just get a really coure one that is oversized and whith the drill spinning, feed it in the hole, then leave the drill running for a while
stinger12
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2008
- Messages
- 832
- Reaction score
- 0
A round flapper disc will enlarge that hole pretty quickly, just get a really coure one that is oversized and whith the drill spinning, feed it in the hole, then leave the drill running for a while
That will work too. I just didn't have an appropriate sized flapper wheel on hand, so I used the grinding stone.
big2bird
Charter Member, Founder Bird-Run, Cruise-In Bird-R
So just how much larger are we talking here? .005" .010"?
010752
Well-known member
Not sure if this is what you meant but these are what I used.
Here is the description.
If anyone is interested, here are the part no's for the rear struts. A little over a hundered bucks.
stinger12
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2008
- Messages
- 832
- Reaction score
- 0
ush:bahamasair
Well-known member
I got the smart struts from VBP and didnt like the way they felt like they were binding when you move them through their travel so I got the heims from speedway and am happy with them now. The heims say they are perfect for suspension so I hope they wont wear too quick
