Rear Brakes and Suspension.....Done!

[BBShark]

The spherical bearing is a Johnny Joint with the outside shell welded into the trailing arm. That sleeve has C clips that retain bearing cups on both sides. I don't think these Johnny Joints are available anymore.

 

[phantomjock]

Three left here!:
https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...nWJ0reiQfL8klryT8qD30mQTH_wf6akwaAqvoEALw_wcB

or here: (halfway down)
https://www.currieenterprises.com/johnny-joint-hsg-kits

 

[Red77]

I have similar looking offset trailing arms like BBShark and want to retrofit in the Johnny Joints like he did. Currie Enterprises is the manufacturer of these if I'm not mistaken and should be able to answer any detailed questions on their use. It's on my to-do list for next year.

 

[BBShark]

Here is a link to the file needed to laser cut the plates.

http://www.vettemod.com/forum/downloads.php?do=file&id=126

Here is a layout with dimensions

 

[rtj]

The spherical bearing is a Johnny Joint with the outside shell welded into the trailing arm. That sleeve has C clips that retain bearing cups on both sides. I don't think these Johnny Joints are available anymore.

Nice, first time I’ve seen someone weld them on aftermarket a arms.

 

[COLE SWEAT]

I think van Steel has something very similar

 

[Red77]

Van Steel does, I basically want to make mine in the same fashion. Johnny Joints didn't exist yet, or at least I wasn't aware of them at the time I bought my trailing arms 20+ years ago. With the arc of travel the arms make, it makes more sense to have a spherical joint in that location. The original rubber bushings let you get by with it, urethane isn't as forgiving.

 

[BBShark]

Van Steel makes an upper link kit. It used to be the Dragvette setup. The only issue I see with that is the axle is still a suspension link and your options for controlling camber are limited (without binding). To sort of fix this you could take the retainers off the side yokes and allow them to float in and out. The problem there is that the side yoke seals are lip seals and they are not made for reciprocating motion.

 

[Red77]

Karsten addressed that on his by having telescoping halfshafts built if I'm not mistaken. Modern cars get around that with CV joint style shafts that are able to move in and out of one of the drive cups. With U-Joints, the only way seems to be telescoping shafts. I agree that letting the side yokes slide in and out would only cause trouble in a hurry.

 

[BBShark]

Karsten addressed that on his by having telescoping halfshafts built if I'm not mistaken. Modern cars get around that with CV joint style shafts that are able to move in and out of one of the drive cups. With U-Joints, the only way seems to be telescoping shafts. I agree that letting the side yokes slide in and out would only cause trouble in a hurry.

That's what I did:

 

[MYBAD79]

yes, about the same as my setup. I got the Johnny Joints from Currie and the telescopic shafts custom made. these shafts are used on rock crawlers and all you need to tell them is the lenght of the stock shaft yoke to yoke and the yoke size, I think mine were around $300 shipped but that was a few years ago.

 

[COLE SWEAT]

I know this is old, but what did you do to fix the issue with the brake line and parking cable being too close to each other

 

[BBShark]

I know this is old, but what did you do to fix the issue with the brake line and parking cable being too close to each other

I was able to get about an inch between the cable and line. That should work but, that is something I will keep an eye on.

 

[COLE SWEAT]

That’s the same thing I’m getting
Guess I too will need to watch it
Mine looks just like yours
Good work by the way

 

[rtj]

For what it is worth, I saw a picture the other day that showed a 3” piece of foam tubing over the e-brake cable to prevent rubbing.

 

[BBShark]

I did cover the rubber line with a metal spiral shield. I'll still keep an eye on it.

 

[COLE SWEAT]

Where did you get the spiral shield for the rubber line? Mine is like yours way too close!

 

[BBShark]

I got it from a friend who was a commercial electric contractor. It's more like a spring than a true spiral wrap (like you would use for a wire harness).

 

[69427]

I had to lookup this thread again. I've got to take my differential out this winter to check out the source of the left output yoke endplay. Depending on what I see and what it costs me in time and money to rectify it, I may consider a similar setup as yours to take the side loads off the output yokes. With the C4 batwing I have, and the bulky sized C4 rear knuckles, the upper link packaging may be an interesting challenge.

A question: What is involved in the shortening of those shafts? Any re-splining required?

 

[BBShark]

Mike, The axles (off of an early gen Dodge Viper) were shortened and balanced for ~$150. No re-splining, they use the same series Corvette U-joints (1350?). Sorry it's been a while.

 

[69427]

Mike, The axles (off of an early gen Dodge Viper) were shortened and balanced for ~$150. No re-splining, they use the same series Corvette U-joints (1350?). Sorry it's been a while.

Thanks.