Plastic Fantastic 2

got the intake back after a .075 shave
P8200995_zpsdj0vgllc.jpg
set a carb on top mostly because I have a carb to set on top.... though it won't work as you see because it's got a boost referenced power valve
did some shimming to see if I could get away with .060 gaskets. Yes, yes I can
P8200991_zpszsu05rnd.jpg

Once I get the gaskets, I'll start huffing aluminum.... I'm not excited to start this phase.
 
So I worked on the motor a bit yesterday - mostly I decided to leave the heads alone then simply blend the intake into the ports.
P8210996_zpswqw8jyzc.jpg
the line illustrates about how much I need to take off. I have gaskets coming tomorrow (I don't need to shave the intake) then I'll blend and get to work assembling this little beastie
P8210998_zps7bsmqoxf.jpg
 
Seems like a lot of material off and the bottom flange of the intake.

Is that due to the import heads?

I bought an expensive (for me) single plane I take a few years ago. Instructions said "requires machining with oem heads." I think it was brodix and machined for their heads. Jegs didn't bother mentioning that detail.
 
Last edited:
Or, is your line for gasket matching? Seems like more than on edelbrock intakes I've done.
 
SuperBuickGuy said:
it really seems silly to me that the area under the cabin isn't cross braced..... so that is one of those things I'll add to this car.
Click to expand...

I agree !!! I tied the trans Xmember and the diff xmember together with a W brace that made a great place to integrate the seat mounts, the driveshaft loop, and the traction bars...
 

Attachments

  • IMAG0702.jpg
    IMAG0702.jpg
    188.2 KB · Views: 16
the heads are import, the intake is Holley which is supposedly USA made... and it fits terribly... ah well, I so prefer having metal to remove then having to add metal....

talking a machinist yesterday (the one who shaved the heads and the intake) he suggested simply hogging out the holes
the problem
P8241006_zpsqski8esl.jpg
see the threads on the lower side? need to open up the hole so that doesn't happen
grind grind grind
P8241007_zpsdcrljr1p.jpg
looks like it worked
P8241008_zpsbcf2isn9.jpg
I need to do a bit of minor port matching, but it worked (yay, saved $200 in machine work)
​P8241009_zpslj8pd7yy.jpg
 
Good news, meh news..... good news is the springs on the iron heads are 485 lb springs
P8311021_zpshs1rgc5t.jpg

bad news is the locks are for 3/8 valves
P8311023_zps2of0yffn.jpg

and the aluminum valves are 11/32
P8311024_zps7umcckif.jpg

I may come back later and do a mea culpa* when I should have swapped to brand-name 3/8 valves... but I'm not going to - I blow it up and those higher-compression pistons I was thinking I would upgrade to will become a necessity - remember, I'm at 10.5:1 compression and I want at least 12:1... that said, the hot rod swap meet happens before race season restarts so those valves could happen still.... good thing I'm using a reuseable head gasket :)
​
*which is me saying "convince me to simply update now"... I think it'll be fine as long as I don't use this in anger - but I think those chinese valves with 11/32 stems are almost a guaranteed boom.... though I've kept sketchier things together by just practicing a bit of restraint...
 
I've been without a car that can do a burnout for more then a year.... I'm starting to get the shakes - though with that thought, I should probably glue some 220 grit DA disks to my hands and get to it on the bodywork... :hi:
 
SuperBuickGuy said:
I've been without a car that can do a burnout for more then a year.... I'm starting to get the shakes - though with that thought, I should probably glue some 220 grit DA disks to my hands and get to it on the bodywork... :hi:
Click to expand...

well it looks like many burn outs are in the future for sure.
 
finally some progress.
clean it up
P9111047_zps6sgcd6ik.jpg
install the crank with a new rear seal
P9111048_zpssab42yvh.jpg
and that's all(ish) for tonight
P9111049_zpsstnvjlkw.jpg
​I ordered rockers and measured the studs on the other heads
 
so first a fright
P9121050_zpsl6yrvsnx.jpg
notice the cam plate bolt holes? anyone want to hazard a guess as to whether or not a Gen 4 or Gen 5 cam and timing set is required? the block is an 89

fortunately, I have other stuff to do
I've finally given up - I'll buy the tapered ring compressors for all my builds - this one will work also with my Buick motor but I am not doing the hateful compressors again...
P9121051_zps3rczgd4u.jpg
then I noticed that the numbers on the rods are not the same as the numbers on the pistons.... the seller told me that the marked numbers (yellow) matched the holes so I went with that - but the rod numbers do not. I'd love to hear why he didn't number the rods correctly (they were resized) oh well.. I'm sure when HRM takes this motor apart in a few years they'll make much ado about how the rods were on the wrong journal... to them I say "HA"
P9121052_zpsgxmlezgp.jpg
after number 2 I had to go do SAR stuff.... ah well, things are progressing
for those interested - Gen 4.... gave me a heart attack though when I saw that....there are no pedestals - which means that had I noticed before, I could have done away with the cam button.... ah well.
 
I added another holley carb to my collection - in reality, I think I'll use the body from my blower carb and the base (since I modified it) from this carb.... totally worth it to do
P9211071_zpsf8gzofoi.jpg
the aforementioned blower carb
P9211072_zpsdgkgxvi7.jpg
right or wrong these were the decision. Stainless Elgin full roller rockers. Thought seriously about the aluminum but know that the guy with the 427 in his boat had nothing but trouble with them.... so here it is
P9211073_zpsuytetwvw.jpg
maybe I should just stack this scoop on top of the current one....
P9211074_zpskoqk8whl.jpg

2 degrees off. instead of 4 advanced it's 2 degrees advanced. close enough
P9211075_zpsjv5hddqm.jpg

so this is the bearing on the back to keep from eating into the block (and of more concern putting showers of iron in the oil)
P9211076_zpsdsmdgtkw.jpg

most of the time tonight was spent adjusting to zero lash on the cam... but it's done
P9211077_zpsexa9iwfp.jpg

P9211078_zps0ihalxyf.jpg

next issue is on the floor
P9211079_zpsdxtfyao2.jpg

I suppose I could fill the gap with silicone.....
P9211080_zpspxkq0feb.jpg

I am concerned about oil pan clearance - not cross member because that's actually in front of the motor, but how close the pan is to the ground... ah well, if it was easy, Pirate 4x4 could do it.

​
 
I'm interested to see how much that single plane intake sticks up. Dual planes are a tough fit.

Definitely want pan road clearance. Speed bumps can otherwise be a b____.
 
rtj said:
I'm interested to see how much that single plane intake sticks up. Dual planes are a tough fit.

Definitely want pan road clearance. Speed bumps can otherwise be a b____.
Click to expand...

I'm interested too.... one way or another, I'll make it fit, but that worry is front and center.
 
Hope you plan on a block saver and blow proof bell housing. They make an extended pilot bushing now to accomadate the block saver.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top