Plastic Fantastic 2

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more steps... time to figure out the angles and pull the buckets out
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next day or so I'll be using those measurements to put the projection lights in
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now big, gaping grill hole
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I know it seems soon to buy these, but I need to do whatever bracing - that means hole drilling, something I hate doing in new paint
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cringe - I suspect these will be the Waterloo of the lights - because it is exposed to the elements
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I like, a lot
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I did try to get it off without damage, but alas, no
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I didn't damage the door, though, and that's a win
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put the doors back on to re-set the gaps
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I got pretty close, a bit of tuning then the doors can come back off to finish stripping and do whatever the decision will be about widening this area
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the gap is gone
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I ran out of time, so it's not really fully on and lined up
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I think those led turn lights are made for the metal factory buckets (the correct name escapes me) which should have a gasket.
 
Your documentation makes me dread when I get to the point to do my car.
 
I think those led turn lights are made for the metal factory buckets (the correct name escapes me) which should have a gasket.

they do, but Custom Image Corvette designed the rear panel to be without the light buckets - otherwise it would stick out past the flush panel.... I don't disagree with them, anyone who goes to this level of work and cost has both garage and motive to keep it out of the wet.... thus, I probably should have put these words "I'm concerned, however, that concern is fairly low"

the tire on the back of this is nearly 14 inches wide and has DOT lines on it, I get in the rain and I'll have far more keep my attention ;)

onto tonight's update.

door handles - ugh
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whoa, pretty straight
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and this is where I got stopped - there's a clip on the bottom that is not coming off - so rather then go with my next solution that involved a large, hole saw.... I stopped
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shiny new parts - actuators
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anyway, that's all for nowedited
 
I think those led turn lights are made for the metal factory buckets (the correct name escapes me) which should have a gasket.

they do, but Custom Image Corvette designed the rear panel to be without the light buckets - otherwise it would stick out past the flush panel.... I don't disagree with them, anyone who goes to this level of work and cost has both garage and motive to keep it out of the wet.... thus, I probably should have put these words "I'm concerned, however, that concern is fairly low"

the tire on the back of this is nearly 14 inches wide and has DOT lines on it, I get in the rain and I'll have far more keep my attention ;)

onto tonight's update.

Thanks, I really didn’t want to state the obvious, but glad I did. I think I’ll use duntov fia flares (if I ever do another) after watching your CIC install.

Looking really good now, glad you are posting here as your thread on CF really overloads my iPhone.
 
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I like the CIC flares better, but for the money I think they could be vastly better. For the record, Josh Powers swears they are a lot better now... his business is growing so I suspect they are.

With that said, I'm so tempted to do a carbon fiber overlay and build another car off the result once these are done... I bet it'd look pretty sweet.
 
abrcadabra it's off...... how, I have no flippin clue
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shiney new part
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experimenting with fitment
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I had this metal from last time I built an adapter
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too tall.... don't have 1/8" stainless
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onto the next step of the process
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I turned the bracket over to lower it - it's pretty close to where it needs to be
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​​​​​​​next up will be fabrication brackets.
 
we will see if this works - I ordered a 2013 SS Camaro rear axle assembly with Brembo brakes... hero or chump time coming soon to a Plastic Fantastic near me.
 
i like how the gas filler mounting holes and the hood mounting holes are the same that will look sweet
 
If you havent already bought those, take a look at www.theretrofitsource.com
I have a set of their Morimoto projectors in my vette (can share pics if you want some ideas on how to do yours). I deal with alot of the amazon projectors that customers bring in, and out of the box they are only OK.
One of the reviews said that once they were tweaked the light output was much better... I think theretrofitsource has some info on how to do this if you end up going this route
 
If you havent already bought those, take a look at www.theretrofitsource.com
I have a set of their Morimoto projectors in my vette (can share pics if you want some ideas on how to do yours). I deal with alot of the amazon projectors that customers bring in, and out of the box they are only OK.
One of the reviews said that once they were tweaked the light output was much better... I think theretrofitsource has some info on how to do this if you end up going this route

I already own them but there's a caveat - I never bought bulbs because these are basically to test the concept and fabricate the doors... when it's done, I'll put in something good (rather then cheap). the tl;dr is thank you, I will need that link in a bit for the 'real' lights.

the question to be answered next is going to be whether or not I can weld new buckets on the doors... cast aluminum is not a happy metal to try and weld because it's usually full of crap. With that said, carbon fiber is an option....
 
I already own them but there's a caveat - I never bought bulbs because these are basically to test the concept and fabricate the doors... when it's done, I'll put in something good (rather then cheap). the tl;dr is thank you, I will need that link in a bit for the 'real' lights.

the question to be answered next is going to be whether or not I can weld new buckets on the doors... cast aluminum is not a happy metal to try and weld because it's usually full of crap. With that said, carbon fiber is an option....

Ahhhh OK :thumbs:

I had a local fabricator weld my headlamp supports (same crap potmetal) back together... he said the metal was trash to weld but it worked. If you are welding buckets to the headlamps for the projector, make some kind of isolator between the projector and the car. I noticed any movement or vibration is severely magnified by the projector on my car
 
I already own them but there's a caveat - I never bought bulbs because these are basically to test the concept and fabricate the doors... when it's done, I'll put in something good (rather then cheap). the tl;dr is thank you, I will need that link in a bit for the 'real' lights.

the question to be answered next is going to be whether or not I can weld new buckets on the doors... cast aluminum is not a happy metal to try and weld because it's usually full of crap. With that said, carbon fiber is an option....

Ahhhh OK :thumbs:

I had a local fabricator weld my headlamp supports (same crap potmetal) back together... he said the metal was trash to weld but it worked. If you are welding buckets to the headlamps for the projector, make some kind of isolator between the projector and the car. I noticed any movement or vibration is severely magnified by the projector on my car

thanks for the heads up, I'm sure vibration could be an issue with the solid roller cam that's installed in the motor. pot metal can't be sand blasted or use stripper in any place you can't grind off the resulting coating... so it's utterly a pain, which is why I'm really considering the carbon option - of course, it also means a lot more work, which (ugh).
 
body work.... ugh
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​​​​​​​lights, whee
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trick is going to be how to make this happen... pop up or solid mount with lifting light cover?
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That might not be a bad way to go. Fixed mount lights and then the doors just act like eyelids. Certainly removes a lot of complexity from the assembly.
 
What are you going to use to protect the lights from rocks when the lids are up?
 
L O N G ago, a series of wrecks not my fault, wiped out the Eckler's sugar scoops, which were a reaction to a damn deer running out at night, and taking out both sets of stock lights......then a Verizon truck backing his fugly hitch into the front left bumper.....so at that point I decided to fill in the headlight openings, and put in my own mounts in the scoops....and so cut the openings by 50% low profile GLASS bulbs....pleasant surprise in that the two blown out lo beams I found in the junkyard raid....easy replaced as the bulbs themselves were glued into the large glass.....RTV and newer/brighter bulbs in place now....

See pix below.....

http://vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11425
 
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that style just isn't mine... not anything wrong with it and it's a pretty sweet way of making lemonade out of a crappy situation.

the other bit is I plan on center lights - and driving mostly with those... not just that but it'd be pretty simple to add a row of LED lights in the grill openings - all while maintaining the stockish look..... dunno, I'll keep posting pictures as I narrow in on what I want....
 
that style just isn't mine... not anything wrong with it and it's a pretty sweet way of making lemonade out of a crappy situation.

the other bit is I plan on center lights - and driving mostly with those... not just that but it'd be pretty simple to add a row of LED lights in the grill openings - all while maintaining the stockish look..... dunno, I'll keep posting pictures as I narrow in on what I want....

this is more like what I am thinking.. I know he is on here hope he responds to my pm.
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part of me seriously considered seeing if I could get tintable glass (like in Mercedes) as light covers - but what stopped me is that opening is curved.... we will see how it ends up, at this point I'm still in the considering my options phase

back to the car
I hate gaps
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however it does mean shiney new tool
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it's so cute
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who knew you could convince a fiberglass door to move with a block of wood?
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and it does
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ring time
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the start of the fix
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I'm going to flush mount all of this.... the ring is to provide a good edge
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ugh back to gaps
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I'm not looking forward to the sanding portion of this endeavor
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i dont have one of those......is it a slip roller with cut outs for making rings? how do you control the diameter less tension?
 
So it's time for Uncle SBG's story time

I sanded
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the end

come back tomorrow for another exciting episode of as the DA turns.editededited
 
i dont have one of those......is it a slip roller with cut outs for making rings? how do you control the diameter less tension?

yes, it's simply a slip roller - most actually have slots on them so that you can bend rings. Of course, they say 1/8" wire... 1/4" stainless is the same thing :trumpet:
 
since this is closed on both ends is there any benefit to beefing it up? for heavier stock

i beefed up my frame and added a motor to my bead roller since the deflection was too much

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they make stronger slip rollers - heck, most large-diameter gas pipe is made on slip rollers. the thing that usually breaks on them is the gears - and I'm certain it's why this one has a 6" handle. it's 'max' capacity is 22 ga.

I have been looking at bead rollers, I don't need it this moment, but once the Buicks start rolling through the shop - I will.
 
unless you want to spend big bucks you will be buying one and beefing it up

and the motor is pretty key for one handed operation

two of my favorites
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