bobs77vet
Well-known member
I want to do that for fun, it looks awesome
this is akin to Michael Jordon saying "well, I just play basketball"... you are way too modest, that looks amazing.Look at posts 176, 180, and 184. I build a buck out of wood, cardboard, tape, foam, and whatever, then cover that with fiberglass and sand smooth. Then I pull molds off of the buck, cutting them apart where necessary to get them off the buck. Finally I pull the CF parts out of the molds and bond them together where necessary. Not a hard process, but a little time consuming. Hope this helps.




Thanks! The splitter is a laminated hard, dense plastic - red in the middle with a 1/8" black upper and lower surface. So, when you shape it, the red will always be visible in the center. We'll see how it holds up. I can always go back to the factory ACR splitter which I know through experience will take quite a beating.Pappy -
I like it a lot! {You've heard that before...}
Is the red tube an add-on or part of the Viper Splitter?
I like the use of Kevlar on the bottom side. I've used some in my fender build. I am saving the rest for work like yours.
PVC scuff pads maybe? (I hate them for aero reasons if just screwed on - but they can be used to "shape air.")
Cheers - Jim
Yes, I will fiberglass the taped areas. That then becomes a male mold which I will finish sand, wax, coat with mold release, and pull a finished fiberglass part off of the outside. That gives me a smooth finish for the exposed surface of the duct which I will then glass in place in the air dam. I'll take a couple of photos as I go.What is the next step? Fiberglass the taped surface?
I'm really interested in what you are doing. I will have some similar things to do with my car.



The poster board is under the yellow tape. I just formed the scoop out of taped together pieces of poster board, then covered the whole thing in tape to give it some rigidity. Then I covered the yellow tape with clear plastic boxing tape which releases the fiberglass resin much easier than the masking tape. Finally, I waxed the clear tape and put on a final coat of PVA as a mold release agent. Once the fiberglass cured, all of the tape and poster board just pealed off the back side with no effort . The tape does leave some lines in the fiberglass, but they are shallow and easy to sand out. Here is a photo of a poster board and tape buck I used when I built the fender flares for my Focus track car, to give you and idea of the build-up.Is the poster board under the fiberglass mat?




Correct on the lines. The yaw sensor and wheel speed sensors are electrical connections, and the electrical input block on the control module can be seen on the far left in the photo. The connector is not plugged in in the photo, but it is pretty massive with leads to not only the yaw and wheel speed sensors, but also to the power switch, ground, performance warning light, an adjustable function switch, a CAN bus connection for the ECU, and a connector for a cable that is used to hook up the laptop. You program the control module for all kinds of variables like wheel diameters, corner weights, track widths, etc. Yes, it controls all four wheels. I had to switch out master cylinders from Tilton series-78 to series-79 to get MCs that are ABS compatible.That is interesting. I assume the two lines going into the distribution block are F/R brake lines from the master and the 4 lines on the top are to the 4 calipers? Does the yaw sensor and wheel speed sensor data go to a separate control module? Does it control all 4 wheels?
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