Oil filter bypsss plug: Pros and Cons

[turtlevette]

[The oil in the pan may have been filtered and/or bypassed, it doesn't matter. The oil in the pan is contaminated, there is always trash in the pan. Particles, sludge.... Most of the debris in the engine is washed down into the sump, some of it collects in the rocker boxes and lifter valley but a lot is in the sump. Take a beaten old engine, tap off the oil..pull the pan and run your finger over the bottom. That's the very stuff you want to bypass past your filter and into your bearings
Having a bypass open means that oil is pumped out the sump and into the bearings unfiltered so any trash that is sucked up comes with it. Bits of rtv that may have fallen in there, sludge and other junk. You can not push cold oil through a cheap POS filter, if you use quality components there is no problem.

This heavy stuff that the pump can't lift is going to magically kick up and get sucked into the pump for a short period when the bypass is open? Hundreds of hours of operation through the filter and that never catches it.

Old wives tales. Go ahead and block the bypass if it gives you a nut. I doubt any of your vechicles will operate long enough to even slightly discolor the oil much less create sludge.

 

[CNC BLOCKS]

CNC You haven't starved the bearings because you're using good HV & HP oil pumps.

TT is right in that, you can't push cold thick oil through the paper element. He is wrong claiming that oil is dirty just because its last pass was not through the filter. That oil sitting in the pan has been filtered thousands of times. You're talking about passing that very clean oil around the filter so that flow is maintained. The most wear occurs during cold startup.

I also agree with TT that a filter won't plug with trash. It could plug with assembly grease that gets overused in my opinion in rebuilds. I'm trying to think of other scenarios.

So what if someone gets a bet overzealous reving a cold engine with a plugged bypass and the paper element tears?

Re read my post I don't use HV pumps Let see in the spring and fall its pretty cold in the N/E and no problems with cold start ups.

The trick is to have a good filter to begin with I have alot of Dry sump engines running with no bypass and they seem to be fine.

How many years before I sould see a problem with starving bearings???

I have never had 1061 filter tear the paper yet.

Sounds like you are making alot of stuff up here or your reading to many books your not posting factual imformation thats for sure!!!

I have street rods that are over 15 years old now with just an M55 pumps and no problmes yet.

 

[CNC BLOCKS]

[The oil in the pan may have been filtered and/or bypassed, it doesn't matter. The oil in the pan is contaminated, there is always trash in the pan. Particles, sludge.... Most of the debris in the engine is washed down into the sump, some of it collects in the rocker boxes and lifter valley but a lot is in the sump. Take a beaten old engine, tap off the oil..pull the pan and run your finger over the bottom. That's the very stuff you want to bypass past your filter and into your bearings
Having a bypass open means that oil is pumped out the sump and into the bearings unfiltered so any trash that is sucked up comes with it. Bits of rtv that may have fallen in there, sludge and other junk. You can not push cold oil through a cheap POS filter, if you use quality components there is no problem.

This heavy stuff that the pump can't lift is going to magically kick up and get sucked into the pump for a short period when the bypass is open? Hundreds of hours of operation through the filter and that never catches it.

Old wives tales. Go ahead and block the bypass if it gives you a nut. I doubt any of your vechicles will operate long enough to even slightly discolor the oil much less create sludge.

I have no idea where you get your info from but you really don't have a clue here thats for sure LMFAO.

Just to compare apples to apples here do you build engines for a living or are you just a book reader or some one with no engine building experiance???

 

[CNC BLOCKS]

I built this engine in the links a few years ago 327 the bypass is plugged and a M55 pump this guy runs his car all winter long with the bypass plugged and 15/40 oil. The car has been to all 48 states with the bypass plugged. Last year the car was in Canada for the summer with the bypass plugged. This year the car is being shipped to Germany with the bypass plugged. This car also has a 370 rear gear as well.

This Corvette has almost 40,000 miles on the engine since I built it with the bypass plugged.

So can someone tell me when this engine is going to be starved for oil???

Links to the build

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-and-c2-corvettes/2289212-oil-pressure-problem-saga.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-...-engine-rebuild-oil-pressure-saga-update.html

48 state trip

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-and-c2-corvettes/2650649-the-car-is-packed-48-states-await-7.html

 

[turtlevette]

Just to compare apples to apples here do you build engines for a living or are you just a book reader or some one with no engine building experiance???

NO i don't build engines for a living. Do you have an engineering degree? Take a look at some SAE papers written by guys that design engines. You seem to have a need to prove that your are the ultimate authority based on how many engines you have rebuilt. That doesn't translate into being a design expert. It's also important to understand fluid and lubrication theory.

TT says that you need quality components, why mostly true, these components still obey the "laws of physics". You get cleaner oil by having media that will only pass the smallest of particles. These filters cannot operate at full flow rates. Filters that will tolerate full volume are those that will not catch small particles. There is no free ride. Most engineering designs are a result of balancing opposing philosophies to achieve the best result for the intended application.

 

[Twin_Turbo]

A quality filter can operate at full flow, that's why you buy a large oversize quality filter. More media surface, better flow. Very very simple. My system 1 filters filter down to about 25 to 30 microns. I can take them apart, inspect and wash the screens and assemble them.

Your whole story is abstract at best, if it filters down it can not flow and vice versa. Whilst true how can you be certain that a certain filter with a certain micron rating is not able to filter all the oil @ full flow? It depends on a lot of things, most importantly media design, material and size. Just flogging out a statement that anyone who has no bypass has to run a poor filtering filter because a good filtering one would not be able to filter all the oil flowed through it is a junk statement and has absolutely 0 to do with engineering. Only 2 things count, facts and real world experience.

What's it always with the derogatory comments? It's there in several of your posts here, it's the same routine each and every time. You get in a debate and have to resort to that to make your point. Frankly, I'm getting fed up with it again...this is you single and final warning. Clean up or be gone. I allowed you back becayse you asked politely. Now read your above posts an think about what you wrote.

I don't give a flying F if you think I don't put miles on my car, you failed to notice that I daily drive a couple of these.......

 

[CNC BLOCKS]

Just to compare apples to apples here do you build engines for a living or are you just a book reader or some one with no engine building experiance???

NO i don't build engines for a living. Do you have an engineering degree? Take a look at some SAE papers written by guys that design engines. You seem to have a need to prove that your are the ultimate authority based on how many engines you have rebuilt. That doesn't translate into being a design expert. It's also important to understand fluid and lubrication theory.

TT says that you need quality components, why mostly true, these components still obey the "laws of physics". You get cleaner oil by having media that will only pass the smallest of particles. These filters cannot operate at full flow rates. Filters that will tolerate full volume are those that will not catch small particles. There is no free ride. Most engineering designs are a result of balancing opposing philosophies to achieve the best result for the intended application.

Thats where myself and engineers disagree. I have hands on experiance and it works and has been proven for more then 38 years now.

Ya a Fram filter does not have good filter media like the NAPA or WIX but they work great.

I deal with alot of engine shops all over that plug there bypasses and I am sure they don't need an engineering degree to do this.

The 1061R filters flow 35 gallons a minute but have a bigger micron rating and I chose not to use them because of that.

I have paid my dues on testing what filter works with my combos and I did not need an egineering degree to do this and its all hands on testing and it works.

You may want to back to school!!!!

 

[CNC BLOCKS]

A quality filter can operate at full flow, that's why you buy a large oversize quality filter. More media surface, better flow. Very very simple. My system 1 filters filter down to about 25 to 30 microns. I can take them apart, inspect and wash the screens and assemble them.

Your whole story is abstract at best, if it filters down it can not flow and vice versa. Whilst true how can you be certain that a certain filter with a certain micron rating is not able to filter all the oil @ full flow? It depends on a lot of things, most importantly media design, material and size. Just flogging out a statement that anyone who has no bypass has to run a poor filtering filter because a good filtering one would not be able to filter all the oil flowed through it is a junk statement and has absolutely 0 to do with engineering. Only 2 things count, facts and real world experience.

What's it always with the derogatory comments? It's there in several of your posts here, it's the same routine each and every time. You get in a debate and have to resort to that to make your point. Frankly, I'm getting fed up with it again...this is you single and final warning. Clean up or be gone. I allowed you back becayse you asked politely. Now read your above posts an think about what you wrote.

I don't give a flying F if you think I don't put miles on my car, you failed to notice that I daily drive a couple of these.......

Thats what I thought I was dealing :lol: Thank you for posting!!!

If he wants to blow smoke up my a$$ he better build a bigger fire then that!

 

[big2bird]

Most engineering designs are a result of balancing opposing philosophies to achieve the best result for the intended application.

While I do not always condone Jim's "ways and means", I do believe this statement to ring true.

The bypass is probably a result of GM engineers considering the scenario of "The little old lady" that does not KNOW to change oil, add oil, or change filters, or forgets for years at a time. I am sure the warranty bean counters were involved.Getting the powerplant to last past warranty is priority.

In the race car scenario. a system that most certainly is maintained to the nth degree, where the oil is most certainly changed after every race, it's a moot point. The full flow system saves components from further damage during catastrophic failure.

A few well placed rare earth magnets would also certainly help.

I can also see the need off road.
My old dune buggy was totally sealed,(All vents were filtered), used K&N air filters, yet after a hard weekend at El Mirage, the oil always felt like suspended rubbing compound.:lol:
And yes, we had an external cooler/filter on the old 1750cc VW.

 

[CNC BLOCKS]

Here is some testing on the oil filter bypass

My garage test results for factory C-1 oil filter canister bypass.

Test (1): bypass came off its seat .095 at 35*F using 10w-30 grade oil @ 13.6 psi.
Test (2): increasing oil temp to 55*F using same oil, bypass opened @ 18.2 psi.
Test (3): increasing oil temp to 75*F bypass opened @ 21.7 psi.
Test (4): increased oil temp to 95*F bypass opened @ 23.5 psi.
Test (5): increased oil temp to 115*F bypass opened @ 24.4 psi.
Test (6): increasing oil temp to 135*F bypass opened @ 24.8 psi.
Test (8): increasing oil temp to 155*F bypass opened @ 25.2 psi.
Test (9): increasing oil temp to 195*F bypass opened @ 25.7 psi.


My next test I added a digital flow meter (only to the bypass) measuring the volume. Also I’m staying with the same temps that are indicated in each test above. I increased the pressure to move bypass off its seat .218 or 7/32” increasing flow to (1) qt. and measured the approx fill time.


Test (1): volume oil flow through bypass (only) at 35*F @ 16.8 lbs. (1) qt. approx every 10.1 sec.

Test (2): at 55*F @ 21.3 psi. (1) qt. approx every 13.2 sec.
Test (3): at 75*F @ 24.8 psi. (1) qt. approx every 14.0 sec.
Test (4): at 95*F @ 25.4 psi. (1) qt. approx every 15.9 sec.
Test (5): at 115*F @ 26.1 psi. (1) qt. approx every 17.4 sec.
Test (6 – 9) are less then a quart, or bypass closed.

All measurements are within +/- 1%
The conclusion stock oil filter bypasses are open most of the time during cold starts and cruising speeds. That indicates your oil is 100% filtered only when oil is warm at idle, or under 24 psi of oil pressure.

rustylugnuts :ack:

interesting tests!
on the advice on some hot rod books, and being in Fla i put a pipe plug in both my 350's.
So 100% gets filtered.
10 yrs ago my 72 wiped a cam lobe,
so no shavings into bearings,
so new cam went in without having to clean out oil passages and rebuild engine.
I'd up the spring pressure if i still lived up north. very cold starts needs a bypass

Knowing my local machine shop probably doesn't have the same quality control for cleanliness that GM does, I'm gonna go ahead with the plugging of the by-pass to give me assurance that the filter catches any left over debris during start-up and break-in of my newly rebuilt motor.

 

[mrvette]

My old dune buggy was totally sealed,(All vents were filtered), used K&N air filters, yet after a hard weekend at El Mirage, the oil always felt like suspended rubbing compound.:lol:
And yes, we had an external cooler/filter on the old 1750cc VW.

U LUCKY SOB, I"d a paid money to do that.....grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr:suicide:

 

[big2bird]

I'd up the spring pressure if i still lived up north. very cold starts needs a bypass

Well, there ya go. Since GM sells these all over the world, imagine an engine is below 0* weather trying to pump all that cold syrup thru the filter at startup. The little dizzzy gear would certainly shred. Since GM doesn't designate where the engine is shipped, the answer is a bypass in them all.

 

[CNC BLOCKS]

I'd up the spring pressure if i still lived up north. very cold starts needs a bypass

Well, there ya go. Since GM sells these all over the world, imagine an engine is below 0* weather trying to pump all that cold syrup thru the filter at startup. The little dizzzy gear would certainly shred. Since GM doesn't designate where the engine is shipped, the answer is a bypass in them all.

The guy in these links runs his car year round below zero in the winter and no issues so far and rebuilt the Dist. this summer and the gear look good.

I built this engine in the links a few years ago 327 the bypass is plugged and a M55 pump this guy runs his car all winter long with the bypass plugged and 15/40 oil. The car has been to all 48 states with the bypass plugged. Last year the car was in Canada for the summer with the bypass plugged. This year the car is being shipped to Germany with the bypass plugged. This car also has a 370 rear gear as well.

This Corvette has almost 40,000 miles on the engine since I built it with the bypass plugged.

So can someone tell me when this engine is going to be starved for oil???

Links to the build

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-and-c2-corvettes/2289212-oil-pressure-problem-saga.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-...-engine-rebuild-oil-pressure-saga-update.html

48 state trip

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-and-c2-corvettes/2650649-the-car-is-packed-48-states-await-7.html

 

[big2bird]

Okay, let's re phrase the question. GM , whom is not known for spending money frivolously, decided the most popular power plant in the world should have a pump bypass at an obvious extra cost.

Why?

 

[Twin_Turbo]

Because of people not doing their regular service intervals most likely. All these neglected/mistreated sludged up engines out there.

What may also have contributed is oil filter failures from cold starts? Distorted media and such, maybe even ripped..or from reving a cold motor. A lot of people don't let the oil warm up before getting on it. Better to have a bypass that sends unfiltered oil through the engine than customers with burst or damaged filters and as a result engine trouble.

 

[MYBAD79]

think I posted this before, if you use sludged old 15W40 mineral oil and rev a cold engine and try to press that old oil jelly thru the low price Fram filter you might be bursting the paper element....

with modern thin synthetic oils and a good quality filter there is no need or a bypass...

the test mentioned in the previous post.... between 135F and 195F the bypass opens at under 26 psi... so it's open pretty much all the time.. again, as long as the filter can handle it, why bypass it ??

 

[Belgian1979vette]

I would like to add that a HV has nothing to do with a bursting filter or opening of the bypass valve. (you made me wonder which bypass you're talking about here, since on a normal engine there's 2 imo, namely one in the filter and one in the spin on adapter. To state things clear I run an adapter without bypass and let the filter do this job).
If the HV pump puts out to much volume (which is not pressure) it will bypass to the input side of the pump. The only thing that can cause things to go south is pressure. This is regulated by the spring in the pump, which is easily changed for a low pressure type.

The rule here is 10 psi per 1000 rpm if I'm correct.

Wether or not you need a HV pump is dependant on other factors as clearances etc. I run a HV currently because of a load of long oil lines running from my engine to the remote filter, oil cooler, accusump. Then there is the crossdrilled crank, the pressure oiled roller lifters, the spring oilers I intend to run...

All this talk made me question filters.

So what is a good filter ? And what about the valve in the filter ?

 

[010752]

I would like to add that a HV has nothing to do with a bursting filter or opening of the bypass valve. (you made me wonder which bypass you're talking about here, since on a normal engine there's 2 imo, namely one in the filter and one in the spin on adapter. To state things clear I run an adapter without bypass and let the filter do this job).
If the HV pump puts out to much volume (which is not pressure) it will bypass to the input side of the pump. The only thing that can cause things to go south is pressure. This is regulated by the spring in the pump, which is easily changed for a low pressure type.

The rule here is 10 psi per 1000 rpm if I'm correct.

Wether or not you need a HV pump is dependant on other factors as clearances etc. I run a HV currently because of a load of long oil lines running from my engine to the remote filter, oil cooler, accusump. Then there is the crossdrilled crank, the pressure oiled roller lifters, the spring oilers I intend to run...

All this talk made me question filters.

So what is a good filter ? And what about the valve in the filter ?

Not sure if you had a typo or not, but there is only one filter bypass on common oem setups.
The Ford type, has the bypass in the filter and not in the housing.
The Chevy type has the bypass in the housing and not in the filter.
The only oem difference is in the Ford type racing filters, such as Fram R, which eliminate the built in filter bypass, but at the same time decrease the filtration from approx 20 micron to over 60 micron, obviously to handle the increased flow.

For the HV pump, any time you increase the flow with the same resistance you will also increase the pressure. Adding an oil cooler, longer lines, accusump does nothing to decrease the pressure (or requiring more flow) since the oil ultimately flows thru the same restrictions in the engine.
The others like the drilled crank, spring oilers etc can use more flow to keep the same pressure. You may want to add extra oiling for the dist gear and timing gears too, since you have the hv pump.

A word about the oil pump relief.
Most Melling HVs come with a 70psi spring. If you have an accurate gauge and are showing 70psi, your same setup without that relief may put out 110 psi. In other words you don't really know how much oil the pump is relieving or bypassing. Putting in a lower relief spring of say 60psi will make the pump bypass more of the time and of course show 60psi on the gauge.
Anytime a hydraulic system goes over relief, the oil heats very, very quickly, degrades and the pump has a good opportunity to cavitate, all of which is detrimental.
You would be better off to put an 80psi spring in and lower the oil viscosity or reduce the flow resistance in the circuit to keep the pressure where you want it and under relief all or most of the time.

 

[010752]

Here is a example of oem.
Grant it, this is a newer engine style, but I recently bought a Ford p/u with a Triton 5.4 from the original owner with 180,000mi. Truck runs like brand new and the ONLY thing that was ever done to it beside regular oil changes was the pcv valve was replaced once.
It had 50/50 city/highway miles on it, but in never cold S Florida temps.
Stock filter setup and stock factory oil cooler. Oil was always Mobil1 10w30.
Has newer slightly smaller filter with metric threads, don't know if the bypass is in the filter or the housing.

 

[Belgian1979vette]

I would like to add that a HV has nothing to do with a bursting filter or opening of the bypass valve. (you made me wonder which bypass you're talking about here, since on a normal engine there's 2 imo, namely one in the filter and one in the spin on adapter. To state things clear I run an adapter without bypass and let the filter do this job).
If the HV pump puts out to much volume (which is not pressure) it will bypass to the input side of the pump. The only thing that can cause things to go south is pressure. This is regulated by the spring in the pump, which is easily changed for a low pressure type.

The rule here is 10 psi per 1000 rpm if I'm correct.

Wether or not you need a HV pump is dependant on other factors as clearances etc. I run a HV currently because of a load of long oil lines running from my engine to the remote filter, oil cooler, accusump. Then there is the crossdrilled crank, the pressure oiled roller lifters, the spring oilers I intend to run...

All this talk made me question filters.

So what is a good filter ? And what about the valve in the filter ?

Not sure if you had a typo or not, but there is only one filter bypass on common oem setups.
The Ford type, has the bypass in the filter and not in the housing.
The Chevy type has the bypass in the housing and not in the filter.
The only oem difference is in the Ford type racing filters, such as Fram R, which eliminate the built in filter bypass, but at the same time decrease the filtration from approx 20 micron to over 60 micron, obviously to handle the increased flow.

For the HV pump, any time you increase the flow with the same resistance you will also increase the pressure. Adding an oil cooler, longer lines, accusump does nothing to decrease the pressure (or requiring more flow) since the oil ultimately flows thru the same restrictions in the engine.
The others like the drilled crank, spring oilers etc can use more flow to keep the same pressure. You may want to add extra oiling for the dist gear and timing gears too, since you have the hv pump.

A word about the oil pump relief.
Most Melling HVs come with a 70psi spring. If you have an accurate gauge and are showing 70psi, your same setup without that relief may put out 110 psi. In other words you don't really know how much oil the pump is relieving or bypassing. Putting in a lower relief spring of say 60psi will make the pump bypass more of the time and of course show 60psi on the gauge.
Anytime a hydraulic system goes over relief, the oil heats very, very quickly, degrades and the pump has a good opportunity to cavitate, all of which is detrimental.
You would be better off to put an 80psi spring in and lower the oil viscosity or reduce the flow resistance in the circuit to keep the pressure where you want it and under relief all or most of the time.

I do not even think a filter comes without an internal bypass valve, but I'm not sure so I'll let the experts have the final word.

As far as HV pump goes : an accusump, when emtied (which it does each time you start up) needs to be refilled as well. This takes away from the volume of your pump. An engine that is shut, will have it's pressure and a lot of the volume being bled off. The volume that is bled off will have to be replaced as soon as you start up.

Furthermore, a situation like in mine makes for higher internal leaks.

You could be right on the additional oiling of the dizzy gear.

 

[010752]

I do not even think a filter comes without an internal bypass valve, but I'm not sure so I'll let the experts have the final word.

As far as HV pump goes : an accusump, when emtied (which it does each time you start up) needs to be refilled as well. This takes away from the volume of your pump. An engine that is shut, will have it's pressure and a lot of the volume being bled off. The volume that is bled off will have to be replaced as soon as you start up.

Furthermore, a situation like in mine makes for higher internal leaks.

You could be right on the additional oiling of the dizzy gear.

Here is the standard chevy filter, no internal bypass.

WIX Part Number: 51069
UPC Number: 765809510692
Principal Application: GM Family of Cars/Trucks (64-97)
All Applications
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 4.338
Outer Diameter Top: 3.660
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 13/16-16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: None
Beta Ratio: 2/20=6/20
Burst Pressure-PSI: 225
Max Flow Rate: 9-11 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 21

Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 3.444 3.100 0.260
Part Number: 51069
UPC Number: 765809510692
Principal Application: GM Family of Cars/Trucks (64-97)
All Applications
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 4.338
Outer Diameter Top: 3.660
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 13/16-16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: None
Beta Ratio: 2/20=6/20
Burst Pressure-PSI: 225
Max Flow Rate: 9-11 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 21

Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 3.444 3.100 0.260

As far as the Accusump,
You are aware that you precharge the accumulator and pressure is adjustable. Therefore it never robs the engine of min oil pressure at idle. In the rare case that it is completely emptied, depending on what valving is used, even with the straight manual valve full open, you just slowly increase the revs from a hot idle with no load and it refills in a few seconds as max pressure is achieved while still maintaining equal pressure and flow to the engine. Some users even feather a manual valve for a few seconds.
Of course the most foolproof way is to use their fanciest valve and then an empty unit becomes a non issue.

 

[Belgian1979vette]

http://www.stockcarracing.com/techarticles/134_0309_oil_pumps_street_stock/index.html

As far as the filter : on the summit website all the filters seem to list a bypass pressure...

 

[010752]

.....The rule here is 10 psi per 1000 rpm if I'm correct.....

I have also heard that GM acknowledged as little as 6psi.
But nonetheless, ask yourself a simple question,
If an accummulator is precharged to 7 or 15psi empty and an engine will accept a flow at 10 psi or less, where will the oil go?

Don't know what type of filter you are looking up on Summit, but here are a couple more standard chevy filters that use the standard chevy bypass in the adapter.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACF-PF454/
Brand ACDelco
Manufacturer's Part Number PF454
Part Type Oil Filters
Product Line ACDelco Oil Filters
Summit Racing Part Number ACF-PF454

Oil Filter Style Canister
Filter Bypass Relief Valve No
Anti-Drainback Valve No
Quantity Sold individually.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/KNN-HP-3002/
Brand K&N
Manufacturer's Part Number HP-3002
Part Type Oil Filters
Product Line K&N Performance Gold Oil Filters
Summit Racing Part Number KNN-HP-3002
UPC 024844035097

Oil Filter Style Canister
Height (in) 5.520 in.
Outside Diameter (in) 3.770 in.
Filter Bypass Relief Valve No
Anti-Drainback Valve Yes
Smallest Particle Filtered 10 microns
Maximum Burst Pressure (psi) 550 psi
Thread Size 13/16-16 in.
Quantity Sold individually.

I use a Melling Select pump 155xxx (don't remember which numbers), but both 25 and 10% over, with 7 qt pans, running at less than 70psi at all times, primarily for the cooling effect of the larger flow and also because I've opened up the dist housing to squirt the dist gear and also have 2 squirters for the cam gear. I change the filter often, and not always the oil with it.

Good luck with your setup:wink:

 

[Belgian1979vette]

I just finished up connecting my oil lines this weekend. The setup includes an remote oil filter. Apparently they use the Ford filters and these have the bypass in the filter.