Moroso A-B

[Belgian1979vette]

I need a good epoxy to work on my intake manifold. I found out that the Moroso A-B, which is good to about 250 °C is a good candidate. I already contacted Summit (i usually buy my engine stuff from them) but they won't ship it due to being hazardous.

Does anyone know how i can get a couple of those packages to me or if a equivalent product exists that i can buy in Europe directly ?

Thanks

 

[Twin_Turbo]

Container. Call around, maybe a shop like six pack speedshop has ontainer shipments and will help you get that stuff. I have a container shipper to here, but the stuff will end up in Lelystad and that's a long drive for you.

 

[BBShark]

I know people that have used JB Weld successfully. Is that available?

 

[BBShark]

I had a similar port matching probem. I noticed that the heads had a lip at the entrance so I was able to port match them to the intake. No epoxy.

 

[MYBAD79]

but they won't ship it due to being hazardous.

Does anyone know how i can get a couple of those packages to me

this is so BS .... same with aerosol cans, you cant ship them by air but you can have ten of them in your suitcase that goes on the plane ... BS....

 

[MYBAD79]

http://www.weicon.de/en/download/prospekte/WEICON-Epoxy-Adhesives.pdf

oder

http://www.legende.ch/p-Epoxyd-Metall-25-ml-Doppelspritze-Fluessigmetall.html

 

[Stroker-427]

Why not to weld with TIG and rod?

My concern shoul be the thermal cycles.... I guess the epoxy have a different thermal expansion than alluminum.

After many cycles the epoxy can unstik itself from the intake wall.

In my job (laser systems) we used ECCOBOND 286 to glue glass with alluminum with a good success. But we allways where afraid of the lasting.... now we avoid any gluing in parts that have thermal cycles.

..just my two cents...

 

[Twin_Turbo]

That's why a common practice is to drill so the epoxy can set as a plug w/ an anchor. Still i'd TIG it

 

[Belgian1979vette]

That's why a common practice is to drill so the epoxy can set as a plug w/ an anchor. Still i'd TIG it

I know, however i'm a bit concerned about warping the intake.

Not that it matters much anymore. I took off my heads and found some serious problems in my motor. Although i took great care at cleaning the hole engine, apparently a small piece of dirt got onto the crank. As if it wasn't enough, the pistons are scuffed and scratches in the bores (black death)

I have been asking on other forums as what could have been the cause. Since most machineshops i know around here, don't have a torque plate (maybe don't even know what it is) I ordered this block from a machineshop in the US, torque plate honed and all. Some think the bores look like they were not torque plate honed. With a 400 block this is a problem due to lack of strength of the block itsself.
I had a lot of troubles with this shop. He first sent me a block with rust pits in the bore and after a lot of trouble he sent me another one, but when i cleaned it out a lot of dirt came out. I cleaned, cleaned untill nothing came out.

Don't know, maybe the cooling was unsufficient as there was still rust in the jackett.

Clearance as per recommendations from JE was .004. I had .0055 so this should normally work out fine.

F*cking ****. I'm almost done with this car. It's almost like it is cursed.

Well, it's like they say, you only have got to blame yourself.

 

[MYBAD79]

wow, that's bad news. where are the scratches in the bore? did it overheat between the bores ? the 400 block does not have cooling pockets between the bores, right ? what's the bore size ?

 

[Belgian1979vette]

wow, that's bad news. where are the scratches in the bore? did it overheat between the bores ? the 400 block does not have cooling pockets between the bores, right ? what's the bore size ?

inside and outside direction (90°) to piston pin. Don't know what caused it. Presumably our of round due to distortion, but could be a cooling problem as the shop didn't clean it thoroughly. I cleaned it as far in the jacket as i could, but not sure. These bores don't leave a lot of room between it and the inner jacket. Some rust could have clogged it up.
.040 overbore, which is max.

Some say to use it, some say don't. Since I'm not sure about the cause this is a hard call. I'm trying to get hold of some used torque plates now and see if there is any serious distortion when torqued down. Some say to lightly sand the pistons with 400 grit wet and reuse. It stopped before there was any real damage rendering them totally useless.

Checked almost every clearance on the thing and nothing has come up. This leaves only a cooling, oiling problem (air ??) or distortion of the block

Crank needs to get cleaned up anyhow, even if reusing the block.

Was even thinking about putting back my old 350 block which is worn, but ran fine within limits.

Don't know, had a really bad week.

 

[MYBAD79]

.040" over is not going to be the problem, there are plenty of overbored 400 SBs out there running just fine... at this point I would agree with lightly polishing the pistons and maybe use a bottle brush on the bores... maybe the clearance wsn't as perfect as you thought ???
I would use new rings though, clean everything and put it back together ... verify oil and water temps.... GL

 

[Belgian1979vette]

.040" over is not going to be the problem, there are plenty of overbored 400 SBs out there running just fine... at this point I would agree with lightly polishing the pistons and maybe use a bottle brush on the bores... maybe the clearance wsn't as perfect as you thought ???
I would use new rings though, clean everything and put it back together ... verify oil and water temps.... GL

I verified clearances on this thing more than 4 times. Clearance is at 0.0055 vs the recommended 0.0045 as per JE's instructions. The damn thing shouldn't have scuffed. Don't know what the hell is wrong here.

I'm acessing what to do right now. Maybe this will become my test mule.

 

[Stroker-427]

May you allready wrote that..... but a small question:

The scuffed area is the piston or the cylinder wall?
If the problem is in the wall the cause can be a not well file fitted rings.

One more reason can be cylinder heads without steam holes (for example Edelbrock heads need to be hand drilled) which are mandatory in GM 400 blocks.

 

[Belgian1979vette]

May you allready wrote that..... but a small question:

The scuffed area is the piston or the cylinder wall?
If the problem is in the wall the cause can be a not well file fitted rings.

One more reason can be cylinder heads without steam holes (for example Edelbrock heads need to be hand drilled) which are mandatory in GM 400 blocks.

Scuffing is both on pistons and walls. Workside. Other side has light scratches (nothing that can't be honed out.

I already verified clearance on the rings, they are within specs of the manufacturer (Speed pro). I had other people say as well that the ring gaps are/should be ok. Heads are done with steam holes drilled.

 

[Belgian1979vette]

Bolted an old head on yesterday and measured the bores from the underside, which was a bit of a hassle. Taper top to bottom seems to be 0.01-.03 mm and the our of round (could not measure in line with the block due to the proximity of the mains) was something like 0.01 mm. Maybe it's 0.02 when i could actually get a good reading in line with the axis.

 

[Belgian1979vette]

an update :

I had the block looked over by a Dutch shop up North that has torque plates. The bores were all over the place. Seems like this was the cullprit. Bores could maybe be cleaned up with 0.003" extra honing, but then clearances will be at .008 and way to much with the type of piston i'm running.

Block is a boat anchor now and all due to the a$$holes at that machine shop.

I'm putting together my old 350 and will see in the future what i will do with the remaining parts.

 

[mrvette]

an update :

I had the block looked over by a Dutch shop up North that has torque plates. The bores were all over the place. Seems like this was the cullprit. Bores could maybe be cleaned up with 0.003" extra honing, but then clearances will be at .008 and way to much with the type of piston i'm running.

Block is a boat anchor now and all due to the a$ at that machine shop.

I'm putting together my old 350 and will see in the future what i will do with the remaining parts.

:hissyfit: ****, sorry to hear that man.....lemme know if I can help....

:thumbs:

 

[Twin_Turbo]

Who was it? post and dros?? Dymo track???

 

[clutchdust]

Damn shame. I know it's got to be much harder to find small block chevy's over there. Dime a dozen over here.

 

[MYBAD79]

an update :
Bores could maybe be cleaned up with 0.003" extra honing, but then clearances will be at .008 and way to much with the type of piston i'm running.

Block is a boat anchor now and all due to the a$ at that machine shop.

what's the recommended clearance for your pistons ?? Forged pistons usually tolerate (or "need") a lot more clearance than cast or hyper pistons...

This is from JE's website:
The factors that affect this are cylinder wall thickness, whether the block is filled, the overall compression height of the piston, piston material and thickness, and whether a marine engine is to see fresh-water cooling. Most small blocks get .004 piston to wall clearance and most big blocks get .005 due to the use of our 2618 high-strength alloy. For heavy blower and nitrous applications, Wiseco recommends adding .001 to the standard clearance. Special note: Clearance numbers are obtained from measuring the largest diameter of the piston, typically at the bottom of the skirt. All measurements should be taken 90 degrees from the pin centerline.


Maybe you can get by using your block.... :thumbs:

 

[BBShark]

This is from JE's website:
The factors that affect this are cylinder wall thickness, whether the block is filled, the overall compression height of the piston, piston material and thickness, and whether a marine engine is to see fresh-water cooling.

I never thought about it but I guess a marine engine that pumps in (relatively) cold water, is a different animal than a car engine.

 

[Belgian1979vette]

Who was it? post and dros?? Dymo track???

Yep, Post and Dros.

Only thing is they use stud to torque the plate down..

 

[Belgian1979vette]

an update :
Bores could maybe be cleaned up with 0.003" extra honing, but then clearances will be at .008 and way to much with the type of piston i'm running.

Block is a boat anchor now and all due to the a$ at that machine shop.

what's the recommended clearance for your pistons ?? Forged pistons usually tolerate (or "need") a lot more clearance than cast or hyper pistons...

This is from JE's website:
The factors that affect this are cylinder wall thickness, whether the block is filled, the overall compression height of the piston, piston material and thickness, and whether a marine engine is to see fresh-water cooling. Most small blocks get .004 piston to wall clearance and most big blocks get .005 due to the use of our 2618 high-strength alloy. For heavy blower and nitrous applications, Wiseco recommends adding .001 to the standard clearance. Special note: Clearance numbers are obtained from measuring the largest diameter of the piston, typically at the bottom of the skirt. All measurements should be taken 90 degrees from the pin centerline.


Maybe you can get by using your block.... :thumbs:

JE's recommendation is 0.004 minimum. I had .0055, so already plenty. Bores need to go .008 to get round again. If i were to use the block, i would need custom made pistons and even then there are other areas that are questionable.:surrender:
The thing to remember here is, i have Oliver rods for this combo. These cost wel of 1200 $ and a lot more when i get them in my hands. They are about the only thing that is still good in the bottom end. I don't want these to stick out of on side of the block if you know what i mean.


I will re-assemble my old block to get the car running again after so long. Then i will see if i will still get around building this combo.

 

[Twin_Turbo]

Or you can order a set of custom pistons