"how to" valve adjust with hidraulic lifter

[danielepiacenza]

Hi to all,
I will change the studs and nuts of my rocker arms. For this reason I will have, for the first time, to adjust my valves.

I have a '71 BB with hidraulic lifters and stock rocker arms. I have find some information about this operation, but all is about the first regulation in the rebuilding (when the lifter are "not charge"). A friend say to me the best method is to cut a couple of valve cover and, when the engine is in exercise temperature, adjust the valves while the engine run ( see that
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HSR36fmBR6M&feature=email[/ame] ). With this operation I "hear" the 0 lash and, after that, I turn 1/4 for 3 times. Between one turn and the other I have to wait for 10 second for allow the lifter to adjust.

What is your opinion? Do you know an other method more easy for have the best result?

Thanks for your helping and apologized me for my waste english.

Daniele.

 

[mrvette]

With a BBC, I not sure about how my idea works, but it's fine for old Pontiac engines, and SBC.....I remove valve covers and put some wide/tall cardboard tucked inside the flange of the head....let the oil hit the cardboard....make sure the rockers have oil to start with on the fulcrum/pins.....

:bestwishes:

 

[Stroker-427]

You keep adjusting the preload with the engine running????

As you know, for my opinion, this is a "jurassic" way to do it....

 

[SmokinBBC]

Setting them cold has worked for me.

 

[mrvette]

You keep adjusting the preload with the engine running????

As you know, for my opinion, this is a "jurassic" way to do it....

when clicking disappears, 1/4 turn more, lock it down....done...

never had any issues...roller or flat....:clobbered:

 

[clutchdust]

The way your buddy describes works fine. I alternate the depth when I adjust hydraulics though. One time I'll tighten them 1/2 turn past quiet, anther time 3/4, but I won't go past 1. That way the plunger doesn't wear in as badly. Only thing is certain aftermarket rockers are narrower (like the Comp roller tips) than factory and you can put the rocker in bind with the stud (bad idea). You can also find clip on splash tips for the rockers just for this job. They work OK but tips and a cut valve cover is virtually mess-less. I've done the job all different ways and prepare to wear hot oil.

 

[danielepiacenza]

Hi guys,
thanks for your time. The ARP stud was arrived and I replace the old.
About the valve adjust I follow the "new school" with cool engine, after that I start the engine without the valve cover for better hear the chatter.
All worked good, but, for my knowledge, I recheck with the "old school" method (hot engine while it run) and the adjust is the same (quite for the intake valve)

here the video:
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xbGf9urPq3s[/ame]

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NTQlS_qnV4[/ame]

 

[TimAT]

SB or BB, same stuff. GM built the lifters, so the adjustment is the same for both.

I set them cold using the service manual steps, set the covers on, run it to normal temperature, then pull the cover on one side, start it, and adjust. Back off until it rattles, tighten until it just stops rattling, then 1/4 turn more. Then do the other side.
This puts the plunger in the lifter above where the factory adjustment, and will allow around 500-700 more RPM. Everyone has their own way to adjust lifters, this is how I do it.