C3-Jeep Steering Gear Conversion

Before I took apart the body, I took all the measurments and mocked up the body on the frame and the box in place.

The steering box is from a Grand Cherokee 2004.
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I bought a Borgeson stering knucle to replace the old rag joint.
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I see you figured out that the only way to put the steering gear and the steering shaft in co-axial is to put the notch on top of the frame (without moving the end of the column up and the steering wheel down)

Nice job, looks very well done!
 
BBShark said:
1804f41a81d13c6f.jpg

I see you figured out that the only way to put the steering gear and the steering shaft in co-axial is to put the notch on top of the frame (without moving the end of the column up and the steering wheel down)

Nice job, looks very well done!
Click to expand...

Thank you sir,
The only thing that bothers me a bit is how I made the side plates, where they end is too straight, it should've been made more like this to prevent metal fatigue.
180523a67c55ce6d.jpg

If theres flex, and the frame beeing like a wet noodle, (old Strider's expression) it will flex and might break at the welds.

Still not painted, so I'll probably fix this before final paint or powder coat
 
Because the box is sitting lower on the frame, the idler arm and the pitman arm were not on the same angle anymore,
So had to fix this if not it would've been a nightmare to align.

First I tied a straight bar to the steering box, note that I cut out the bolt for the idler arm since I'll probably have to relocate it when I match both angles of the pitman arm and the idler arm.
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Then did the same thing with the idler arm bracket using a straight aluminium angle solidly tied to it.
I also shaved off the top bolt bracket of the idler arm off the frame.
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made a new holder for idler arm bolt with a tube so frame wont crush when tighened that goes thru the frame since it wont be in the same place.
1804f42a076a9ca0.jpg

Then I adjusted the idler arm location so I got the same angle, for the pics, here you can see that the bar on the steering box and the angle aluminium part tied to the idler arm are now on the same angle.
I did use a angle finder to set them up.
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from under you can see that both arms are at the same angle.
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And a view from top to see if things were straight.
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Then it was a matter of welding the bolt and the top bracket on top of the frame to hold the idler arm in it's new location.

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To make sure the steering link didnt interfere with the oil pan I reinstalled the engine put the body back on the frame, reinstalled the steering assembly and tested everything.
worked just fine.
 
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Hi Michel,

You are a lifesaver. I can not find this item on Borgeson's site for the life of me.

How do people like driving the Jeep box with a universal joint instead of a rag joint? Is much hydraulic noise transmitted up the steering wheel?

Regards,
Matt
 
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Bad Bird said:
Hi Michel,

You are a lifesaver. I can not find this item on Borgeson's site for the life of me.

How do people like driving the Jeep box with a universal joint instead of a rag joint? Is much hydraulic noise transmitted up the steering wheel?

Regards,
Matt
Click to expand...

No problem, Matt glad to help, If we dont help eachother, who will ?

About driving the car with the Jeep box, car is still dismantled... cant tell right away.
MAybe one day .....LOL
 
Michel:

Nice work on taking the time to align pitman and idler arm geometry properly. Thanks for sharing the pictures.

Neither the old Corvette Steering or Borgeson Delphi retro kits for the C3 properly address this critical issue. They just got it close and called it good. I redid the idler arm mounts to get things lined up to the Corvette Steering mounting, but would have preferred to redo the box mount on the frame as you did.

I have had the U-joint connection in my car for 5+ years now, steering is precise and no wear issues that I have found to date. I regularly check the column angles and lower column bearing condition however.

Phil
 
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pmazza said:
Michel:

Nice work on taking the time to align pitman and idler arm geometry properly. Thanks for sharing the pictures.

Neither the old Corvette Steering or Borgeson Delphi retro kits for the C3 properly address this critical issue. They just got it close and called it good. I redid the idler arm mounts to get things lined up to the Corvette Steering mounting, but would have preferred to redo the box mount on the frame as you did.

I have had the U-joint connection in my car for 5+ years now, steering is precise and no wear issues that I have found to date. I regularly check the column angles and lower column bearing condition however.

Phil
Click to expand...

Yeh, I gotten lazy over the last several years, need check out my rack install, but the alignment shop didn't notice anything....some months ago...

:p
 
BBShark said:
1804f41a81d13c6f.jpg

I see you figured out that the only way to put the steering gear and the steering shaft in co-axial is to put the notch on top of the frame (without moving the end of the column up and the steering wheel down)

Nice job, looks very well done!
Click to expand...

Yep, looks about right. :)

534a40cd63c2afd.jpg
 
Kid Vette said:
534a40cd63c2afd.jpg
Click to expand...

Yeah, That pic you posted a while ago is where it all began for me,
ThanksLOL
I mixed a bit of Striders install, he used that quarter inch plate, and yours.

I also wanted to mount the box like the original, from out side the frame.
More work but worth it, I think.

The only difference is that the Jeep box had 4 bolts.
 
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I respect the workmanship that you all did on your Jeep conversions, but can't help comment that it's a bit much.....

for ME it would be two plates, through drill, 3-4 bolts/nutz, and maybe a plate on the wheel/outside of the frame....relying on the frame to distribute the load adequately.....of course I have a cross support from A arm to A arm....

My rack in the same lateral loading area, is mounted with maybe 25% of the material, and it's been there for some 10 years now.....now it IS true I don't race /autocross the car daily, but I did it a few times some years ago.... stupid thing is fine....I just mounted the rack in the stock fore/aft location of the OEM cross link...figgering the tie rods would be fine....

from all observations, seems I have done my own version of the commercial products....for maybe 200 bux.....

:club:
 
mrvette said:
I respect the workmanship that you all did on your Jeep conversions, but can't help comment that it's a bit much.....

for ME it would be two plates, through drill, 3-4 bolts/nutz, and maybe a plate on the wheel/outside of the frame....relying on the frame to distribute the load adequately.....of course I have a cross support from A arm to A arm....

My rack in the same lateral loading area, is mounted with maybe 25% of the material, and it's been there for some 10 years now.....now it IS true I don't race /autocross the car daily, but I did it a few times some years ago.... stupid thing is fine....I just mounted the rack in the stock fore/aft location of the OEM cross link...figgering the tie rods would be fine....

from all observations, seems I have done my own version of the commercial products....for maybe 200 bux.....

:club:
Click to expand...

I guess it's a matter on how much time and effort a guy want to put on something.
For some, too much isnt enough.
 
Michel, can we officially call your restoration rebooted?
Looks like to me...couldn't wait.:bounce:
 
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