Buinicorn

SuperBuickGuy

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Joined
Jul 16, 2012
Messages
3,279
Location
Seattle, WA
I always wanted a flat top wagon.... thought I found a non-rusty one - it was, it wasn't rusted in the normal spots.... and it had been hit in the right rear

I'll give background next post but here's where I'm at
Did I say this was a solid car? well, it is now
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so time to take it even further apart.... the driver's side doors haven't been removed - and the rear left doors ... well, they fought.edited
if you're counting, only one of these came off as intended
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I love heat
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I win
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I need to strip the rest of the shell.edited do some minor clearancing, fix a couple small spots then get to coating
 
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SuperBuickGuy

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 16, 2012
Messages
3,279
Location
Seattle, WA
more coloring in the lines
a box
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looks like another warranty is going to get its feelings hurt
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for those wondering... the 64 Buick support is different than the Chevelle
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now it fits
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in other news, starter is bolted in and the converter is as well
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and revisit something... where the dark spot I heated to fix oil canning.... it worked! I really didn't get it that warm.. ~ 200 degrees, maybe... I put a block behind then heated it briefly... worked great
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SuperBuickGuy

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Joined
Jul 16, 2012
Messages
3,279
Location
Seattle, WA
I bought this car 3 years ago for $200 and a set of S10 v8 conversion headers... no title, and on a whim - leaving a swap meet, had been looking for a flat top wagon (I'm not a fan of the skylights) - and they are rare.
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other than surface rust and a bit of mud in the quarter... it seemed solid in all its normal 'rust' places... yeah, oops
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what really drew me to this car was the radio-delete... this was as bare-bones as you could probably buy a Buick then.... no power steering, no power brakes, just a 300/automatic (and the 300 was MIA)
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what I didn't know was this car had a reputation for taking people's money. It's got 4.10 rear gear and drag-studs.... that said that is the plan for it

initially, I bought a GNX "hot air" motor for it but mostly because it was $400, came with the 200r4 and the quick ratio steering box (the car was really, really rusted).... that said, technology has really done a lot with the 3.8 - and eventually, that will find a home in it.... but I had a 6.0 LS from a Denali and figured it'd be a cheaper/quicker way to make this run

2 years I got the title by tracking down the owner 2 owners prior.... who is a pastor. This is interesting because the pastor who baptized me drove stripper cars and carried tools in the back to help people. He was a legend at buying the loss-leader from a dealership - which were usually cars with the same spec as this car. He would, after that deal was done tell them he'd like to buy another same-car for his wife, but this was the going-to-church car so he wanted ALL the bells and whistles. What's funny is he'd get that car for a loss too.... weirdest part was even though the dealership lost money on both cars, they'd visit his church... and laugh about how well he did. It really is a gift.

I'm not much into slow cars, so my goal here is "nothing to see here, just an old guy in an old wagon" .... who just blew by you so fast that it turned your Lambo inside out. It will be sliver/red interior... and honestly look about the same as when it arrived.... it will have a/c because Buick... but this motor is the stocker that I'll pull once it's on the road to replace with something in the neighborhood of a 1000-1500 hp 3800 V6... nothing to see here, just some big/old/wagon.
 

SuperBuickGuy

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Joined
Jul 16, 2012
Messages
3,279
Location
Seattle, WA
outside of today's shenanigans with my FJ40,edited I hooked up the fitech timing control.... almost burned my truck down twice, but now it works fine....

I did other things
first was get the steering column out ... that was a lot more pain that I was expecting
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then came the yoyo of up and down to clearance the floor for the 4L80e. I refuse to cut and add metal... so I heated and banged
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banging, round 2
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round 3 (keep in mind, up and down)
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what needs clearance - the cooler fittings
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and took the wiper box off the firewall (it is seized solid)
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SuperBuickGuy

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Joined
Jul 16, 2012
Messages
3,279
Location
Seattle, WA
new tool.edited do I recommend? maybe.edited It's about as powerful as an air die grinder - the straight kind.edited So it is useful, but keep in mind I punched one hole with it and did the rest with my larger Makita..... which is dying because I use it to smoke coming out - and it keeps working but the writing is on the wall for it (and my Makita sawzall)

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these were done with the Makita - this is the rear-most mounts on the car and both were rusted solid - so no choice but to cut replace the nuts and weld back (when I get my nuts)
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I can't imagine why GM made this nut-holder so complex
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this was done with the new tool
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finished welding the battery box
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the rest of my evening was a fan-favorite wire brush the dirt off the underside
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I weighed it, 10 lbs of dirt
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tomorrow a bit more cleaning then likely put the body back on because the motor may be ready for my Corvette.... I need to get it out of the shop because the next parts of the Buick are dirty in both dust and overspray
 

SuperBuickGuy

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Joined
Jul 16, 2012
Messages
3,279
Location
Seattle, WA
now that the block has been fully seasoned...
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time to get after it
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the first step is clean up the block... interestingly this is a 5/8" bore block (oil passage which makes it a 74 and later block)
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and the edges
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so the back story is I need to get these parts in one place (and I may throw the car together enough to drive).... but most importantly, we may be moving soon and the safest way to transport it is together

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SuperBuickGuy

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Joined
Jul 16, 2012
Messages
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Location
Seattle, WA
for the next week or so, this gets front burner... I've got to get the floor painted so I can mount the body to the frame....edited
first, remove harness
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remove frame
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put on Corvette dolly
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I also really need to start planning the details... things like power windows and such.... I think I have most of what I need to make it mobile.... but no gauges - if what I use needs dash mods, now would be a pretty good time to do it.... and on and on... very comfortable, fast, fast, car... one I could race if the vehicle I'm towing becomes incapacitated....edited
 

SuperBuickGuy

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Joined
Jul 16, 2012
Messages
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Location
Seattle, WA
time to make the safety experts cringe
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the goal here is get the sand out (more of the sand), and get the grease off the underside.... this is round 1
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also do a bit of spot rust treatment
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can't see the difference but a lot better
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while the frame waits for remarriage
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SuperBuickGuy

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Messages
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Location
Seattle, WA
I know, I know, I should go back to Corvette only content.... but alas, you need to suffer to really appreciate C3 content.
time to set the car in place
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front brackets
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assembled
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in the back, I'll use the hinge mounts to hold it
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welded
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it even holds on the back
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SuperBuickGuy

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Joined
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Messages
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Location
Seattle, WA
ugh, I don't like undercarriages
however, it needed a full wire-wheeling plus washing... so that's what it got....edited

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the owner of the C3 and his wire wheeling endeavors tonight
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SuperBuickGuy

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Seattle, WA
been kind of busy with other stuff.... but did get the floor welded in
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Also got the turbo flanges....edited

Tomorrow is track day - so probably no update
 

rtj

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Nov 5, 2011
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Discussion forum, don’t worry about it not being a Corvette:) . We’re here for the cars.

Wow, big project.
 

SuperBuickGuy

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Joined
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Messages
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Location
Seattle, WA
well, 1200 miles, 3 days and a few new things
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we have a new terrorist... cute little bugger, though
the quarter in its wavy glory
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amazing how little effort can really make it a lot better
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just a push
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also a push here
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I'm going to pull the skin off but I want to do the fixes while it's still in its 'jig' also have a bit of sill rust repair....

should get the car back in the shop tomorrow night

oh and the other thing, we're moving in 3 weeks 250 miles away... that said, it's an amazing new shop
 

SuperBuickGuy

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Joined
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Messages
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Location
Seattle, WA
never think the fender is perfect... it is not
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I hate doing it, but I'm going to break it down to several components - which means spot weld drilling -
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mostly because it's easier to fix the dents as a single panel - however, the lower lip is really thin - so where I'm drilling out the spot welds will be replaced....
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it's remarkable that it was filled with Idaho dirt but not rusted out
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