1958 MGA Coupe

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Your review of the wheel?
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its smooth really smooth. you buy them in different grits and this is a 120 grit. i have decided to put more effort out with a finer grit then go faster with a coarse grit. i want no sanding scratches that i have to fill. i have only done that little section so far. my 4 minute of use observation is that the final surface of the steel is amazingly smooth. i will keep you posted as i figure out the best technique
 
If you plan on using epoxy primer it's better to have some 120 grit scratches for the "extra" bite ... I usually shoot my epoxy over 80 grit , two coats regular urethane primer fill all these scratches, the the usual block sanding ...
 
laquer or urethane, doesn't matter.... don't shoot the primer over a polished surface, it's not as good as a rough surface when it comes to adhesion.

are these disc the so called roloc discs ??
 
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these are made by 3m and I got them from east wood, scotch bright bristle disc, the grit is 120 grit and i think i will take a traditional 120 grit paper on a DA sander and use it next to a spot i used the disc on. and see if there is any difference. i do want good adhesion.


1 hour tonight.....did I mention I hate sanding...

first with 80 grit paper on an electric circular sander then with the 120 grit 3M bristle sanding disc. disc started at 16mm inside and 16 mm outside and 25 mins later it was down to 14.5 mm outside and still 16 mm inside i think i eyeballed it to be somewhere around 10+ sq ft

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oh man thats a sweet ride.... an early 50s buick? that thing will take forever to sand....you will come out with arms like a gorilla. I bought my first MGA after painting a 65 chev fleet side....and i bet your ride has more sheet metal.

well today another hour of sanding...did i ever mention that i hate sanding

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out comes the window, i did about 30 mins with 60 grit and then 20 mins with 120

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the bristle disc had 20 mins of use and at finished 13mm inside and outside
 
hate to sound like a broken record but honestly: if you get these cars outside and use a sandblaster you'll get the paint and the rust off in no time.... you can buy cheaper than this ALC blaster that I got, Allsource is the ALC knockoff brand.... you can get into all the corners and it leaves the perfect surface finish for primer.... if you put a 20x30 tarp under the car you can even re-use the sand....

that Buick reminds me of "christine" ... what car was that? was that a Buick ??
 
hate to sound like a broken record but honestly: if you get these cars outside and use a sandblaster you'll get the paint and the rust off in no time....


I have done the sand blaster thing before on a Jeep cj5. when i left NJ i sold all the sand blasting stuff. I just was not all that impressed with doing it in a back yard set up. It may be that we have too much moisture in the NE and the sand or even the specialty abrasives clump too much. so this time its just the old fashion method. these cars are really small.
 
hate to sound like a broken record but honestly: if you get these cars outside and use a sandblaster you'll get the paint and the rust off in no time....


I have done the sand blaster thing before on a Jeep cj5. when i left NJ i sold all the sand blasting stuff. I just was not all that impressed with doing it in a back yard set up. It may be that we have too much moisture in the NE and the sand or even the specialty abrasives clump too much. so this time its just the old fashion method. these cars are really small.

yes, moisture is a big problem especially here in FL. I added a drain pot at the inlet to the blaster and I'm using the biggest nozzle they sell.... uses a lot of sand though.... for my 4 VW rims I used about 250 lbs of sand.... was very quick though, maybe 30 minutes per rim and that included unclogging the nozzle a few times....

the whole process is rather nasty - the dust goes everywhere and you need a really good respirator....
 
i really live in urbubia these days thats more urban that surbruban im not sure my neighbors would appreciate it

another hour of doing my favorite chore....
20 more mins on the bristle disk and it was 13 mm inside and 11.5 outside


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im not sure my neighbors would appreciate it

lol

I'm really fortunate with my neighbors.... but I try to sandblast or paint when they're not home :D

nice progress with the bristle disc, I'll have to ty one of these ... not too long ago I bought a few stripper discs at Sears - they were on sale, like 70 or 80 % off so I bought all 6 they had left for like $4 each :D ... these discs are for use with an angle grinder, they remove everything down to bare steel .... good stuff.... don't last very long though, at 12 bux a piece it would be way too expensive stripping an entire car.....
 
hate to sound like a broken record but honestly: if you get these cars outside and use a sandblaster you'll get the paint and the rust off in no time....


I have done the sand blaster thing before on a Jeep cj5. when i left NJ i sold all the sand blasting stuff. I just was not all that impressed with doing it in a back yard set up. It may be that we have too much moisture in the NE and the sand or even the specialty abrasives clump too much. so this time its just the old fashion method. these cars are really small.

yes, moisture is a big problem especially here in FL. I added a drain pot at the inlet to the blaster and I'm using the biggest nozzle they sell.... uses a lot of sand though.... for my 4 VW rims I used about 250 lbs of sand.... was very quick though, maybe 30 minutes per rim and that included unclogging the nozzle a few times....

the whole process is rather nasty - the dust goes everywhere and you need a really good respirator....

I'd recommend getting a blasting cabinet big enough to do wheels. Even the cheap Harbor Freight example is pretty nice - my dad and I recently got one of those after getting tired of the little benchtop we'd been using for over a decade. It won't help out with body work, but at least you can do some pretty big items while keeping things a lot cleaner and using far less media.
 
so lets say about 6hrs today of play time....i was surprised how long it too to remove everything

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[
I'd recommend getting a blasting cabinet big enough to do wheels. Even the cheap Harbor Freight example is pretty nice - my dad and I recently got one of those after getting tired of the little benchtop we'd been using for over a decade. It won't help out with body work, but at least you can do some pretty big items while keeping things a lot cleaner and using far less media.

I dont want to highjack but...
Even cheaper, build one.
Cost me 2 4X8 plywood, two toilet bowl flanges, pair of long sleeve gloves and a cheap sandblast gun.
I build it between the two garage doors, it's 30 by 30 and painted the interior white.
By the way the paint holds on pretty good.

works ok, but got to keep the humidity under control, cheap gun tends to clog up.

http://vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2702&highlight=sandblast


Ok back to thread.
Great job Bob.
 
same red as the bottom of my sons camper that we painted 1.5 yrs ago, the vin is coded for the color and we did a test sample on the original lacquer on the car and it was really close. his camper is outside year round and the paint has had no issues what so ever and still looks great. these Mg guys are like NCRS types so this time i am going with the flow.
 
can't go wrong with red.... anything looks good painted red :)

I guess that's why they call it resale red.... ooops, did I just paint my VW red ??

lol
 
[
I'd recommend getting a blasting cabinet big enough to do wheels. Even the cheap Harbor Freight example is pretty nice - my dad and I recently got one of those after getting tired of the little benchtop we'd been using for over a decade. It won't help out with body work, but at least you can do some pretty big items while keeping things a lot cleaner and using far less media.

I dont want to highjack but...
Even cheaper, build one.
Cost me 2 4X8 plywood, two toilet bowl flanges, pair of long sleeve gloves and a cheap sandblast gun.
I build it between the two garage doors, it's 30 by 30 and painted the interior white.
By the way the paint holds on pretty good.

works ok, but got to keep the humidity under control, cheap gun tends to clog up.

http://vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2702&highlight=sandblast


Ok back to thread.
Great job Bob.

Less than $200 when it's on sale at HF, and I had a 20% off coupon handy so I got it for about $150. There are times when it's simply easier to buy something than build it. :D
 
There are times when it's simply easier to buy something than build it. :D

Maybe, but is it 30 by 30 and 36 in high?
I can blast pretty big parts in there and if I take off the bottom grills even bigger parts.. I didnt have any problem blasting the rear crossmember,try that with your HF unit...
+ it custom made to fit between the garage doors, so even at 200$ I like it and it wasnt a big deal to build.

Anyway it was just a suggestion.

Bob, Any sample of red we could look at?
I'm curious.
 
I have the HF one it was 189 - 20% + 9% tax.... - other than it leaks, and is really hard to see inside - it's great.

I wonder if there's a silver paint I could put on the inside of mine that would help with seeing?
 
i had a medium size HF sand blast cabinet and i sold it when i moved last, it just wasnt worth the effort to me. the cancer you get from the dust i think its called silicosis that you get from breathing the dust is scary stuff. so i figure with all the **** i have inhaled over the years i would just eliminate that from the equation.

this is the color. this is with out any color sanding or buffing just a rough spray coat with the clear over it. since its a camper and sits out side we figured we would let mother nature do the buffing...


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Silicosis is no fun - the $50 for the good respirator is well spent money..... people get lung cancer because they're breathing this crap (sand-silica) day in, day out.... with proper protection it's not an issue .... well, this doesn't help those who died fron this crap but hopefully prevents further deaths.....

that red is going to look good, are you going to use the rustoleum again or go for base/clear???? with that work,time,effort invested you really should buy some DP epoxy and some Deltron base..... Ebay has this stuff for 50% off.... SPI is really great clearcoat......

just some ideas....
 
that red is going to look good, are you going to use the rustoleum again or go for base/clear???? with that work,time,effort invested you really should buy some DP epoxy and some Deltron base..... Ebay has this stuff for 50% off.... SPI is really great clearcoat......

just some ideas....

i have never used rustoleum (except brush on for frames), but i see that rustoleum has an automotive finish system at the local auto stores, i used on the camper a duplicolor lacquer and it is a base coat with a clear coat as a finish. lacquer is an original material on this car and the car was sprayed apart and then together again before the fender piping is put on and thats how you get the original overspary on the fender bolts. lacquer is really easy to spray "and repair" and i have lots of experience with it. i will look at those other paints you mentioned. i have seen cars primed with the lime green epoxy primer that have sat out side for months at repair shops because bills never got paid and there was no rust through, it was really impressive
 
That's why you don't use sand with free silica in a "sandblaster" as any instruction manual or vendor with half of a functioning brain will tell you. You're not going to get silicosis from glass bead (silica, but not free silica), crushed garnet, slag, etc. Hell, if you buy a bag of playground sand at Home Depot, it will say in big letters on the bag "don't use for sandblasting."
 
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