1958 MGA Coupe

bobs77vet

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Next time I do this, I'm going to try a trick that I saw on Bitchin' Rides. They pretension the metal where they're going to make the louver (aka stretch the metal by hammer and dollying the place where the metal is going to be louvered).
I do recall that episode, I have a planishing hammer and an English wheel and can use them on this, maybe slice it, stretch it then press it, well you guys got me thinking

Grand pa plays with the 4 yr old grand daughter in the garage with kinetic sand all the time

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Why not make a casting mold from clay that hardens

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I can push the clay into the louvre so I actually make a bottom die and then repeat for the top die

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And I think it would work

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Now I think the sweet spot is making this for one full louvre opening both up and down with the intermediate flat spaces My panels are handed and mirror images so one die only works for one side, where there are 6 repeatable louvres

So I think I use a clay mold then use the epoxacast to make a top and bottom die. The problem I have is when I hammer and dolly one side the other side distorts, perhaps the first strike is with the dies I made first and then the finishing press is with the full die to make both sides pressed at the same time , thanks everyone for the tips and websites, I have always wanted to learn about casting things
 
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SuperBuickGuy

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or cast those louvers.... that same kid I posted above - did a neat cast of aluminum for his car....

I really want to start playing with 3d printing.... then cast the part after printing it. it's a wonderful time to be alive....
 

bobs77vet

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Pop
or cast those louvers.... that same kid I posted above - did a neat cast of aluminum for his car....

I really want to start playing with 3d printing.... then cast the part after printing it. it's a wonderful time to be alive....
i think I have to use an intermediate step with a clay mold that is not fluid so that I can form it to make the louvre opening have the upward push in the lower die at the same time it has the downward depression,Then I use the epoxacast on that mold
 

rtj

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If you used wax on the original part, you should be able to make a 2 piece mold using casting resin. Basically, the wax temporarily blocks off the resin. Pour one side and after hardening, dig the wax out and pour the second side. Just a thought. I’m thinking the original would be vertical for initial pour.
 

bobs77vet

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If you used wax on the original part, you should be able to make a 2 piece mold using casting resin. Basically, the wax temporarily blocks off the resin. Pour one side and after hardening, dig the wax out and pour the second side. Just a thought. I’m thinking the original would be vertical for initial pour.
vertical then lay it on its side? I can visualize the clay mold aspect and with the clay I can push it into the louvre opening and make sure its straight and eyeball it before it dries to make adjustments.

With the wax paper will I get a nice straight line or is it likely to rip or snag? or even melt? will the wax paper give me a taught line between the down and up louvres
this photo is only with the first 1/2 louvre and doesn't have the up louvre next to it
IMG_5536.jpg



I am thinking with the clay i can control the size and shape then build a wall around it, for the pour and it could all be horizontal with no air bubbles. I will be doing only one full down/up louvre since that pattern repeats it self the most times.

looks like from reynoldsam.com the epoxacast 655 quart size, hardener, ease release is about $100. did not source the wax paper yet. is that in the ball park of what it should cost?

louvres from my 37 ford

feebc233.jpg
 

rtj

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Wax almost like the sheets the guy uses in one of the videos (Willys video). Except chunks. I’ll see if I can find it. Modeling clay like you are using may be just as good. I know we used wax when making molds.



I was thinking you could use wax on one side to seal the original. Then cast the other side. Once hardened, pull wax and cast the second side. Split apart and remove original. All with release wax/agent of course.

The 37 hot rod louvers look good.
 
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bobs77vet

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thanks guys, I know next to nothing about these processes and i will look at that website. i keep reading that the epoxy gets really hot in the curing process doesnt that melt the wax?

those are original 37 ford louvres, i didnt make them , looks like i was fixing a repair spot on it

time to wrap up the door seal retainer part

Jim Cheatham was looking out for me and found an original "seal retainer" set across the pond from one of his contacts. one of the pieces has some slight damage and has a TIG weld where it twisted and creased when getting removed, but these parts are really hard to find and expensive and I am happy with them and that Jim found them for me. thanks again Jim.

They are now with me and I will be using them in my car. lets see how they match up with what I made.


heres the original set , they have that same twist that I thought was suppose to be straight.

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and now a side by side comparison

the end views side by side
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now the long views side by side
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the hand made set is about 5/8" shorter, but that shouldn't make any difference, all the ugly welds are below the carpet so you will not see them . there is a surprising amount of flexibility in both sets so that mounting them should not be a problem.
So to answer the question can you make the MGB seal retainer set fit an MGA coupe I would say the answer is yes with some substantial effort.
 

rtj

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Good job on the trim piece. I posted another vid by the willys guy in the metal working thread. He’s using wax with his casting.
 

bobs77vet

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Good job on the trim piece. I posted another vid by the willys guy in the metal working thread. He’s using wax with his casting.
I have been watching his processes. I am not sure i understand the reason for such really heavy dies, I am getting close to having the panel done, today I did wonder if I put a stop in the lower die if that would help

IMG_7407.jpg

IMG_7398.jpg
 
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rtj

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Well, it looks like you have gotten the solution. Louvres are looking good.

The heavy fixtures in the videos is to keep the casting from bending and breaking.
 

BBShark

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Well, it looks like you have gotten the solution. Louvres are looking good.

The heavy fixtures in the videos is to keep the casting from bending and breaking.
I think the gut in the video overkilled the flask (heavy steel perimeter). I've seen draw dies made with filled urethane but a sheet steel parting plane so that you can clamp a sheet. Then the plug actually draws the metal down into the die and forms the part without distorting the surface.

Depending on the part, you are limited in the number of good parts, but good for prototyping or one off stuff.
 
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bobs77vet

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lets move from proto type mock up to a nice one

idea is to stop me from feeling guilty for beating on my first new set of chrome knock offs, and to use leverage to remove them.

Using a socket breaker bar and round stock

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concept worked so now to make them pretty, only change was to make the handle ends 4"

I gave most of my wood working tools to my son so we used my old tools at his shop to make these

they are 3/4' birch plywood and are glued, screwed and stapled

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basically 2" handles 4" long on the ends and a 5 gal bucket for the arc, 3 1/2" big hole,1 1/4" end holes and the leverage holes are 3/4". 7"x 22 1/2"

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cut on a band saw and rounded over on a router table

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test fitted to three different knock offs and staples/screw holes filled with wood putty

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stained and polyurethaned drying on our nice 55* day

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bobs77vet

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lets wrap up a few projects

after some contemplation I decided to go with two removable tubes so like Mark suggested you could use the crank handle if you had a flat on the road. the tube is easy enough to remove it you want to use a breaker bar and socket in the hole instead

IMG_7518.jpg

time to finish up the other inner fender panel, I am going to weld a stop to the lower die so the edges of the louvres are nice and crisp. thats a thin strip of metal to use as a stop and it will get welded in

IMG_7512.jpg


this made the edges much flatter, I think I have gone as far as you can go with a home made die that doesn't have locating dowels.
I do want to try that epoxy cast process on something

I did a much better job at cutting this time, maybe a bigger wheel cuts better

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still need to clean them up

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the last thing to do after cleaning them up will be to weld some weld nuts to the back of them so the panel has a nice finished look to it as opposed to using those sheet metal clips, I have to order some stainless steel weld nuts.
 
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