GTR1999
Gearhead
I have a fixed tip 90* snap ring plier I got 35 years ago as a kid rebuilding Bridgeport mills. It works perfect and I have not seen them for sale new anyplace. I did find a 2nd plier at a swap meet for a $1 so I keep one in the shop tool box and one in the home tool box. Sears sells a decent replacement tip snap ring plier that should work.
I just took a quick look and recommend the following. 78-79 differentials were the end of the run and it shows, the QC on them was poor.
1- Replace the bearing cap hex bolts with socket heads. cheap mod that helps.
2- Replace those flanged head RG bolts with ARP bolts or at least remove them and use #271 loctite with them. Many of the 78-79 RG bolts backed out because they were not loctited and the lockwasher/shoulder bolts were replaced with those flange heads.
3-As long as the seal had support in the housing you don't need to dress it up with JB Weld. In theroy the housing could be setup on the mill, bored and sleeved to correct dimension but the cost isn't worth it- now. As parts become harder to get this will change. I'm seeing it more and more now with what used to be common parts.
4- measure your new yokes, with them out install the snap ring and measure from the face to ring it should be in the .180.185 range. If they are under .180 I wouldn't use them. QC on rebuilt yokes does vary from what I've seen. To compare, I have measure several original yokes with up to 100k miles and they were in the .195-.200 range and were certainly better then replacement yokes.
If you want to get into it and make a better diff then you will have to pull the posi case, replace the clutches with solid steels, polish and tune it, and replace the cross shaft. Check the cross shaft bolt for depth into the case hole,and check the fit on the bearing caps. To go further would be to replace the bearings,crush sleeve,and lash& pattern. You have to make the call, if it ok otherwise check the endplay and reseal it.
Yoke endplay comes from worn yoke, lousy posi setup, or worn cross shaft holes. All this can be addressed unless the case is cracked.
I just took a quick look and recommend the following. 78-79 differentials were the end of the run and it shows, the QC on them was poor.
1- Replace the bearing cap hex bolts with socket heads. cheap mod that helps.
2- Replace those flanged head RG bolts with ARP bolts or at least remove them and use #271 loctite with them. Many of the 78-79 RG bolts backed out because they were not loctited and the lockwasher/shoulder bolts were replaced with those flange heads.
3-As long as the seal had support in the housing you don't need to dress it up with JB Weld. In theroy the housing could be setup on the mill, bored and sleeved to correct dimension but the cost isn't worth it- now. As parts become harder to get this will change. I'm seeing it more and more now with what used to be common parts.
4- measure your new yokes, with them out install the snap ring and measure from the face to ring it should be in the .180.185 range. If they are under .180 I wouldn't use them. QC on rebuilt yokes does vary from what I've seen. To compare, I have measure several original yokes with up to 100k miles and they were in the .195-.200 range and were certainly better then replacement yokes.
If you want to get into it and make a better diff then you will have to pull the posi case, replace the clutches with solid steels, polish and tune it, and replace the cross shaft. Check the cross shaft bolt for depth into the case hole,and check the fit on the bearing caps. To go further would be to replace the bearings,crush sleeve,and lash& pattern. You have to make the call, if it ok otherwise check the endplay and reseal it.
Yoke endplay comes from worn yoke, lousy posi setup, or worn cross shaft holes. All this can be addressed unless the case is cracked.
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