69427
The Artist formerly known as Turbo84
Hey, the fuel tank looks great. Whatcha using to weld it?
SBG's C3
- Thread starter SuperBuickGuy
- Start date
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
Miller Dialarc TIG.
rtj
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2011
- Messages
- 2,973
How much do you estimate material cost to be for the complete ss tank?
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
About $140. A comparable tank would cost $1100 built - so you can save some bucks.
Here's the math:
$100 for the stainless flat metal, fittings are really dependant. The 3/8" and 1/2" fittings cost between 3 and 6 bucks each. The fitting I used for the supply was pretty spendy (bulkhead, compression fitting, AN fitting was $26.00) . I have a huge advantage in that my dad owns a shop that builds stainless commercial kitchen equipment so press brake, shear, etc are are just a visit to the parents away (170 miles, one way)... if you had to have a shop do it, it shouldn't cost much for them to chop it out and brake it as long as you give them the dimensions to be cut.
Another alternative, nearby I have a laser shop that does cutting for me, they can be relatively a good cost - however, I also use them for one of my side businesses, so I do get a good-guy discount.
I'd avoid the HVAC shops because this is tougher metal than they're normally used to making; but most metropolis have a shop that does commercial kitchen equipment - and they'd be able to do this.
AN fittings themselves can be kind of spendy - this is who I used
http://www.buyfittingsonline.com/
Here's the math:
$100 for the stainless flat metal, fittings are really dependant. The 3/8" and 1/2" fittings cost between 3 and 6 bucks each. The fitting I used for the supply was pretty spendy (bulkhead, compression fitting, AN fitting was $26.00) . I have a huge advantage in that my dad owns a shop that builds stainless commercial kitchen equipment so press brake, shear, etc are are just a visit to the parents away (170 miles, one way)... if you had to have a shop do it, it shouldn't cost much for them to chop it out and brake it as long as you give them the dimensions to be cut.
Another alternative, nearby I have a laser shop that does cutting for me, they can be relatively a good cost - however, I also use them for one of my side businesses, so I do get a good-guy discount.
I'd avoid the HVAC shops because this is tougher metal than they're normally used to making; but most metropolis have a shop that does commercial kitchen equipment - and they'd be able to do this.
AN fittings themselves can be kind of spendy - this is who I used
http://www.buyfittingsonline.com/
rtj
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2011
- Messages
- 2,973
Thanks, not bad price wise.
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
Some years ago, we noted the price was 1300 bux for a CHEEP island range hood ~30-36" sq. we have a island range, facing the living/dinina area so Linda can not be so isolated when cooking.....
so I went to my welder buddy, and he laid up the dimensions in chaulk on his garage floor, once Linda and I agreed on style, so I went to a metal house and they cut the pieces, he tigged them together, I finished it off, and we hung artsy painted metal decorations on the thing, looks like a million bux, used a attic power vent for the fan.....total cost 400 bux.....
:clap::clap::gurney:
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
the problem with that route (and I even looked at it again today) is the gas filler would be 6" below the deck to clear the hinge from the gas door.... in the end, I took the easy way out
(for that one person who thinks I get it right the first time)
and a framework was made for the tank with some straps
I'll have a couple more pictures of that when I pull the tank down - I had to weld the frame in place, and have to drop the tank to finish weld.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
the problem with that route (and I even looked at it again today) is the gas filler would be 6" below the deck to clear the hinge from the gas door.... in the end, I took the easy way out
(for that one person who thinks I get it right the first time)
and a framework was made for the tank with some straps
I'll have a couple more pictures of that when I pull the tank down - I had to weld the frame in place, and have to drop the tank to finish weld.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
and the framework
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
Forgot
Update on the FAST install. I powered up the system today, everything came up and no error codes (woohoo).
However,
it wouldn't be me if there weren't something to bitch about.
I sent FAST an email at least 3 weeks ago asking about the 02 sensor in the sidepipes. As you may have seen in my post, I've now ground a bit off the ceramic coating to put the sensor in place.
want to guess what FAST said?
"you should put the sensor in 'closer' to the motor"
WTF charlie?
"put the sensor in the leanest pipe"
Anyway, their late take on this is the sensor (at the outside rails) is too far from the motor to get an accurate reading. I say they're full of crap - as there are several OEM designs where the O2 sensor is as far away.... anyway, if I'm wrong, I'll have to drill another hole in the ceramic coating.
So yes, it's an awesome system, and they do fully put the cuss in customer service....
Update on the FAST install. I powered up the system today, everything came up and no error codes (woohoo).
However,
it wouldn't be me if there weren't something to bitch about.
I sent FAST an email at least 3 weeks ago asking about the 02 sensor in the sidepipes. As you may have seen in my post, I've now ground a bit off the ceramic coating to put the sensor in place.
want to guess what FAST said?
"you should put the sensor in 'closer' to the motor"
WTF charlie?
"put the sensor in the leanest pipe"
Anyway, their late take on this is the sensor (at the outside rails) is too far from the motor to get an accurate reading. I say they're full of crap - as there are several OEM designs where the O2 sensor is as far away.... anyway, if I'm wrong, I'll have to drill another hole in the ceramic coating.
So yes, it's an awesome system, and they do fully put the cuss in customer service....
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
not done yet....but close
Twin_Turbo
Der Maulwurf
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2008
- Messages
- 7,579
Is it a wideband sensor? it has an internal haeter, I would test..maybe you are OK. Willing to bet the oem systems you saw had a cat con behind the O2 sensor, those things contribute a lot of heat to the sensor warming up.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
It's a wideband
no, it wasn't behind the cat converter - OEMs have the second o2 sensor to verify that the cat is working, so it doesn't make much difference about warming up to operating temp - so they use a non-heated, cheaper o2 sensor.... whereas the heated (wideband) needs to be operating as soon as possible so that the motor can operate more efficiently, sooner....
and yes, I am testing it because I've nothing to lose... I still (despite another 3 or 4 emails) haven't received a straight answer from FAST about why it must be closer. Their response has been "air will cause it to read incorrectly".... which, while I know that, isn't true here. There's no air from the motor or from the end of the pipes that would cause a problem. For some reason (and I'm considering while I type), they seem to think the o2 sensor is at the end of the sidepipe, not before the muffler in the collector yet still a fair distance from the motor.
Twin_Turbo
Der Maulwurf
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2008
- Messages
- 7,579
The oem rear sensors always have a better heater circuit than the fronts, some people swap rears on the front to get them to warm up better, commonly done w/ header installs. Not all heated are widebands, in fact most are not. C5 etc uses 4 narrow bands, the rears have the better heaters.
On the 502 ramjet here the bung is in the collector but that's right under the rocker panel, a good distance away from the motor, no problem
On the 502 ramjet here the bung is in the collector but that's right under the rocker panel, a good distance away from the motor, no problem
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
I know you're talking generally - however - since the FAST system is advertised with wideband, I think it's safe to assume that it's a wideband O2 sensor.
Twin_Turbo
Der Maulwurf
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2008
- Messages
- 7,579
Well you can't put it too far forward as wb sensors do not like getting too hot, 900F is max and if yours runs hotter there are heat sinks available
Maybe they are talking about the factory setup where air is pumped into the coverter and the downstream sensor "reads" that?
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
that could be, I took it to mean too close to the end of the exhaust system but at this point I just don't know.
good info, TT, thanks
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
It runs...only made one mistake, I didn't realize the ignition switched lug turned off on starting - so simply moving the plug up to one that didn't turn off and varoom.
a mess, but installed
gratuitous engine shots
and I got another scoop... think I'm going with it
O2 sensor seems to work fine. I have a lot of tuning yet to do (especially cold start), but it runs, it drives, and now it's a manual.... all in all, it's good
oh yeah, and my tach works
a mess, but installed
gratuitous engine shots
and I got another scoop... think I'm going with it
O2 sensor seems to work fine. I have a lot of tuning yet to do (especially cold start), but it runs, it drives, and now it's a manual.... all in all, it's good
oh yeah, and my tach works
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
well, I think I can finally at least get it on the ground. I still have to fix one little thing; but other than that (the ignition switch "off" position still leaves the fuel pump on.... and the computer on...
anyway
tonight's work was putting in a few suspension bits
these are notoriously weak - you can even see the bend in the tie rod
to the rear
these are notorious for bending, clanking, and tearing up poly bushings.
add to this one that the inner bushing seems to be the wrong size, and it would explain some quirky handling (I hope)
of course, it never comes apart easily
anyway
tonight's work was putting in a few suspension bits
these are notoriously weak - you can even see the bend in the tie rod
to the rear
these are notorious for bending, clanking, and tearing up poly bushings.
add to this one that the inner bushing seems to be the wrong size, and it would explain some quirky handling (I hope)
of course, it never comes apart easily