SBG's C3

[SuperBuickGuy]

I enrichened Mid-America this morning with a soup-to-nuts rebuild kid - everything side yokes to trailing arm bearings...

 

[mrvette]

I enrichened Mid-America this morning with a soup-to-nuts rebuild kid - everything side yokes to trailing arm bearings...

What was the price on the yokes?? curious....as mine were about 130 each, back when....as I recall.....I got a set of clutches years ago, ran about 80 bux....if prices are nearly doubles, hopefully you have USA parts, if not....hummmm.....:crylol:

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I enrichened Mid-America this morning with a soup-to-nuts rebuild kid - everything side yokes to trailing arm bearings...

What was the price on the yokes?? curious....as mine were about 130 each, back when....as I recall.....I got a set of clutches years ago, ran about 80 bux....if prices are nearly doubles, hopefully you have USA parts, if not....hummmm.....:crylol:

I bought this list from mid-america
Precision Rear Wheel Spindles
Inner and Outer Rear Wheel Bearing Kits
Inner and Outer Rear Wheel Bearing Seal Kits
Rear Wheel Bearing Shim and Spacer Kit
Rear Spindle Flanges
Rear Spring Mounting Kit
Drive Shaft Front and Rear U-joint Kit
TA shim kit
bearing install tool

$680 delivered
So I don't really know what each, individual part cost - I really liked that they allowed me to mix and match parts....

Here's pictures of what I plan on doing

 

[mrvette]

OH, so I maybe missed a comment, you not replacing the yokes because you are doing the upper strut gig.....

I dunno what is matter with me, in that I can unnersand most mechanical stuffs pretty good, but when it comes to suspension geometry my brain goes :hissyfit::hissyfit: and all I can do is scratch my ass in wonderment....

other than the obvious changes everyone does, that is why I never got into any C4 style mods and other stuffs.....

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I am replacing the yokes - however, they will not be a load-bearing structure after this is done

I'm not doing a C4 style conversion because I don't want the 4-link style arm; I think it's unnecessary for my purposes

 

[GTR1999]

To avoid future problem you might want to look over the parts you get in.

Make sure you use USA Timken bearings, some places are using cheaper parts in their kits now.

The spindles should be Spencer Forge pieces otherwise you may have imports.

Use CR seals over the imported ones as well.

U-joints should be Spicer solids.
Hopefull that is what you get. Good luck.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

To avoid future problem you might want to look over the parts you get in.

Make sure you use USA Timken bearings, some places are using cheaper parts in their kits now.

The spindles should be Spencer Forge pieces otherwise you may have imports.

Use CR seals over the imported ones as well.

U-joints should be Spicer solids.
Hopefull that is what you get. Good luck.

it is what I specified, but the person on the other end could only put that on the order - she didn't know - crossing fingers :confused2:

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

good news/bad news

Good news is the existing rear differential side yokes are better than the replacement... bad news is it's obviously the TA bushings - a PITA to get out

2.73 (new) differential


3.08 (old) differential


starting removing the trailing arms... ug

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I hesitate to post this as it's a pretty familiar sight to you
an enjoyable evening was spent fighting one bolt - and it's only half way off

shims hold it in place

First step is to remove the shims and cut the bolt

half the shims are gone


and that's all for tonight

 

[Garys 68]

could be worse, on a 68, you would be cutting through shims as well as the bolt

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

could be worse, on a 68, you would be cutting through shims as well as the bolt

I stopped last night because I couldn't get the inside shims out - I need a slide hammer with a hook... err, larger slide hammer with a hook.

 

[mrvette]

could be worse, on a 68, you would be cutting through shims as well as the bolt

I stopped last night because I couldn't get the inside shims out - I need a slide hammer with a hook... err, larger slide hammer with a hook.

The guy at a vette shop doing my t-arms some 18 years ago.....used a cutting torch, and burnt them out, stinky rubber and all, he did use some caution on the gas lines though......just in case of the frame being weak, which it was not.....:flash:

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

could be worse, on a 68, you would be cutting through shims as well as the bolt

I stopped last night because I couldn't get the inside shims out - I need a slide hammer with a hook... err, larger slide hammer with a hook.

The guy at a vette shop doing my t-arms some 18 years ago.....used a cutting torch, and burnt them out, stinky rubber and all, he did use some caution on the gas lines though......just in case of the frame being weak, which it was not.....:flash:

it was 15 degrees (but warming) in my shop last night - so everything was closed up. I didn't want to chase myself out with rubber smoke.... otherwise, flames would have happened (more so than what happened - did you know PB blaster blows cool flames when combined with rubber and ignited with a plasma torch?) :devil:

 

[MYBAD79]

same sawzall that I bought.... Skill seems to be a good quality brand, I got 7 years out of my saw so far so good.....

don't waste time with penetrating oil.... just buy some extra blades and cut right thru the shims and the bolts.....

100% agree with Gary, insist on quality parts. If you find some no name bearings in your order, send it back and buy the good stuff.... Spicer solid U-joints seem to be the best acc to all those people posting on all these forums..... I have also had good luck with AutoZone's "Brute Force" joints .... stay away from these $7 no name brand junk .....

shim kit: most likely you end up a few thousands short..... when I did my trailing arms and bearings I did my measuring with the setup spindle and then asked Gary for custom ground shims..... worked out absolutely awesome....
The shims in the kit are like .020", .015" and so on .... if you need a .023" and a .017" you're forced to either compromise or grind a shim down....

maybe you're fortunate enough to have a small lathe, then you can machine the sleeve down and use the next bigger shim.....

If you're using upper strut rods then you might as well re-use the old yokes if the C-clip groove is still there.... if they're worn past that groove then yes, replace.....

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I have an early-80s vintage 13x36 Grizzly lathe

 

[MYBAD79]

well, that should do it..... if you can get the sleeve into the jaws then yes...... I actually rubbed my sleeve on sandpaper to get it parallel.... was a pain..... then got the correct size shims from gary..... a pain but well worth it....

I've got a bunch of photos in my "johnny joint install" thread.....

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

So did you ever install them?

I'm getting offset trailing arms, so there will be a difference. I like the hole saw idea - what size was it?

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I was getting offset trailing arms from Corvettemods.com ..... then they sent me an email saying they'd made a mistake on their website - that the part would be $60.00 more. In reality, the part would be $100 more because the discount I got on the arms wasn't available anymore.....

I'm mildly irritated - the price difference between all of them wasn't more than about $75, so to demand I pay 100 more for their product (nevermind I ordered on Sunday and I get this news this morning) - just ain't going to happen.


It's okay, what's bad for Corvettemods.com is good for VanSteel


*and I feel bad for not supporting the Chinese - but they don't make offset arms.... it sucks, really :waxer:

 

[mrvette]

This thread forced me to get under the car and look to refresh my memory....

I have the thin sway bar, and 1/4" clearance from tire on each side, I have a VBP unmodified 420? lbs plastic spring, and about a inch off the 8" long bolts on each side....the stock t-arms with modified/moved ebrake cable mounts are 1/4" clearance to the rubber.....IF I removed the t-arms and went to offset them, by say 1", and then narrow the sway bar, and move the mounts inward a bit, I think I can get more rubber under there....

so question is.....if I stay with my 17x9.5" '89 vette rims.....how much rubber can they reasonable hold????

:bonkers:

 

[MYBAD79]

So did you ever install them?

I'm getting offset trailing arms, so there will be a difference. I like the hole saw idea - what size was it?

yes, I installed the rebuilt arms last summer....

http://vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7894

pretty sure the hole saw is 2" but I can check to make sure.

 

[MYBAD79]

I'm mildly irritated - the price difference between all of them wasn't more than about $75, so to demand I pay 100 more for their product (nevermind I ordered on Sunday and I get this news this morning) - just ain't going to happen.


It's okay, what's bad for Corvettemods.com is good for VanSteel

so just out of curiosity: how much are two rebuilt trailing arms with JohnnyJoints ???
If I remember correctly I have spent about $600 in parts alone (spindles, bearings, shims, parking brake stuff, JonnyJoints) when I rebuilt mine....

 

[phantomjock]

So did you ever install them?

I'm getting offset trailing arms, so there will be a difference. I like the hole saw idea - what size was it?

yes, I installed the rebuilt arms last summer....

http://vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7894

pretty sure the hole saw is 2" but I can check to make sure.

Karsten -- I can check mine -- they're off the frame - (and soon for sale, too). I am thinking 1 1/2 on the hole saw. Will check tonite and reply.

Cheers Jim

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I'm mildly irritated - the price difference between all of them wasn't more than about $75, so to demand I pay 100 more for their product (nevermind I ordered on Sunday and I get this news this morning) - just ain't going to happen.


It's okay, what's bad for Corvettemods.com is good for VanSteel

so just out of curiosity: how much are two rebuilt trailing arms with JohnnyJoints ???
If I remember correctly I have spent about $600 in parts alone (spindles, bearings, shims, parking brake stuff, JonnyJoints) when I rebuilt mine....

without Johnny joints, they're ~500, with Johnny joints they're ~700. If you buy the johnny joint from Currie enterprises and put it in yourself, you'll save $100

I'm swapping the arms because these arms are in pretty rough shape..... as for cost - I don't know yet, it depends on how much I have to replace... I've ordered everything, and expect to send much back.... my working estimate is less than 1k, but we'll see - if the yokes need replacing or any of the spindle surfaces are toast probably closer to 1400

 

[phantomjock]

The verdict = 2 inch Hole Saw. The Currie Johnny Joints are 2".
Jim

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

The verdict = 2 inch Hole Saw. The Currie Johnny Joints are 2".
Jim

very good, thanks! :thumbs:

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

so this project gets to sit for a couple weeks.... I got my "box full of parts" from MidAmerica.... ummmm.... why can't they say at the sending "you're not going to get all your parts?" Oh well, I've plenty of other things to keep me occupied

 

[JeffP1167]

SBG

I'm going to be starting to part out all my 82's suspension if you are looking for nice trailing arms. These have very minimal surface rust in certain areas but for the most part in excellent condition.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

SBG

I'm going to be starting to part out all my 82's suspension if you are looking for nice trailing arms. These have very minimal surface rust in certain areas but for the most part in excellent condition.

Thanks for the offer, but I'm going with offset arms - and that's laziness on my part as I'm 1 jig away from simply making my own...

Interesting stuff, so MidAmerica sales don't know where the bearings are coming from; I suspect no news = offshore, but they said they'd email me with the information.... and that my parts are 2 weeks away (read 3 weeks with shipping)... which is actually okay because I can do like I did today - when I realized I didn't need the side-yokes I could cancel that portion of the order without an issue. By the time two weeks pass, I'll have the other arms apart and will know exactly the bits I need

I love it when a plan comes together :lol:

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

got them off
turns out the best way on the driver's side was to weld on a pry point


round 2


winner - I made a hammer puller die to grab the shims....

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Upon further inspection - I think I can get the old parts off without damage (I think this has been apart - the bearings - before).

so, it'll cost 100 for bearings and 100 for ujoints.... woohoo, my Corvette is saving me money