Six Link Rear Suspension

New 6mmB works

Thanks very much Jim. I didn't open it in AutoCAD but it's OK in notepad so I'm sure all is good.

Bill
 
Twin_Turbo said:
Downloads section, under Autocad files in the CAD section.
Click to expand...

I still only see 1 file for this, there are 4 files but the other 3 look like they are for something else. Am I loosing my mind I don't see the files for the first 2 that was posted in post #89
 
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It should unzip into 3 .dxf files:

New-ultra-link-6mm-A
ultra-link-new-6mm-B
ultra-link-new-8mm

Oh, also the serpentine brackets are adapter plates to use a SB serpentine setup on a BB.
 
Got it Thanks, When I clicked on the link TT posted on my work puter it opened the one file in AutoCAD. As for the Serp. belt conversion any files for that?
 
Grampy said:
Hi Guys,

I'm not sure why I have an issue but I downloaded the zip file again yesterday and I still get an error message "Invalid or incomplete DXF input -- drawing discarded" when I try to open the ultra-link-new-6mm-B.dxf file in AutoCAD. I also get junk when I just open the file in notepad - complete giborish. I have no problem with the other 2 files.

Anyone have a copy of the ultra-link-new-6mm-B.dxf file that is working for them that they can share?

Grampy
Click to expand...

I have the same problem. Can somebody convert the, ultra-link-new-6mm-B, file to Autocad 2000 for me. I can open the other 2 but this one comes up as the error mentioned above. For the most part I just need the dims for the brackets that mount onto the frame. Does anyone have the lengths for all of the connecting rods. I can make them I just need the rod length itself minus the Heim Joints. Thanks......Ken
 
I just downloaded a revised file in dxf and dwg of ultra-link-new-6mm-B. See if you can get either of those to load (new file name is ultra-link-new-6mm-B1).

You can do me a favor in exchange, VOTE FOR VETTEMOD
 
Rod Ends (Heim) & sleeve purchase

I'm looking to buy the rod ends now ( Heim Joints ) and threaded tubing. I need 4 X 7 & 4 x 12 long tubes. Any suggestions where to purchase or brands to avoid? I'm trying to stay away from Chinese stuff. So many choices............. .Zerk fitting on ends a No No? VBP uses them for their struts ? Speedway has Aluminum threaded tubing ? So all hex or round tube ? ..... :push: Any Help is appreciated :goodevil:
 
Stingxray:

Twin Turbo uses the Aluminum ones some bits - so they must be ok. He also likes (and I'll follow his recommendations) the hex tube versions. Thats what I'm planning on using.

I have a quick pair of questions:
1. Do you have good confidence that the lengths - 7" and 12" are "about" right?
2. Is your application a C2 - or C3 - or??

I ask as mine (C3) is all apart and would like to buy some bits for reassembly - so no good measurements in position.
 
I bought mine from Lefthander. The tech guy there told me that QA1 rod ends are made in China including their HMR-T series. He told me that the best rod end they sell is Radial Bearing brand (made in the USA) and, get this, they are $1.50 cheaper than the best QA1's.

QA1 017-HML-10T $28.49
Radial Bearing 034-10-A8 $26.99
 
Thanks

Radial Bearing brand ...Ill try them . My Measurements were as follows:
Peir Paolo said the forward links were 10.5 inches eye to eye. So I wanted to confirm. Trailing arm length, I measured at 17.5 inches center to center( Front Bolt to Axel center. Then I measured the pattern and subtracted the difference. The Rod ends add 3 inches. 7 inches is pretty close for the tube. Now for the upper & the toe rods. I have VBP lower 3/4 (smart strut) , 5/8 on the bolt size. I'm thinking the toe rods are the same length (12" tube 15" total eye to eye) the upper I believe is slightly shorter, so I'll have to take the chance on it. Note : Measurements taken w/ ends at minimum length.
 
Rod ends...........................................

Looking at the pattern I found the bolt holes are cut at 1/2 inch. The Pier's photos show what looks like the heads on a 5/8 bolt. So when buying your rod ends purchase 3/4 rod end X 5/8 bolt hole size & use grade 8 bolts. Anyone else run into this? :suspicious:
 
Gotta Joint ?

BBS & TT :
You read anything on Heim Joint failures? Exccess wear on street cars? One forum party stated "Heims are not DOT approved" and he was hasseled by the "MAN" ! Could ticket your car? I found these joints offered by Currie ( Oh ...also ....these were 4X4 guys talking) Thoughts ? See Below :

Wear in heim joints is very common, they can also make a rattling noise because the wear.

Currie Enterprises developed the Johnny Joint to fix the heim joint "problems/issues".

Our trac bars come with Johnny Joints, to eliminate the possibility of premature wear or rattle noises. Johnny Joints are known to go over 100,000 miles without replacing the bushings.


Part #: CE-9112N-13
Our Price:$39.95

Description: The all new narrow 2" forged Johnny Joint® rod end was designed originally for use in our JK front and rear trac bars, however, it is now available seperately as a replacement part or for use in any type of universal application for custom builders. This joint is a male rod end style forging that accepts Johnny Joint® internals that are unique to this narrow joint. This version features a 14mm thru bolt hole, a 1.600" mounting width, 2 1/4" of 1"-14 right hand threads on the shank, and is greasable through the outer shell. We also keep the jam nuts for these units on hand at all times as well - see CE-9112JN. Finished in gold zinc plating. Sold each.

http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=2981
 
Has anyone uploaded the files to emachineshop.com to see how much they would charge to waterjet the pieces? We could possibly get a bulk discount if enough people wanted this setup.
 
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