WooHoo!!!! Engine block is home!!! Looks Great!!!!

[BlackRat]

They had to takeabout .005 off the deck. It looks better now than it did the day it was bored. Also had new cam bearings installed and ordered a competition roller backed timing chain because mine the other style had been rubbing the block. What ya think???

:thumbs:
Wade

 

[BRUTAL64]

They had to takeabout .005 off the deck. It looks better now than it did the day it was bored. Also had new cam bearings installed and ordered a competition roller backed timing chain because mine the other style had been rubbing the block. What ya think???

:thumbs:
Wade

Yes, it does look proper. :thumbs:

 

[TimAT]

Now go thru there like we talked about, clean it with hot soapy water 92 times (at least) and put it together.

Looks really good.

 

[SmokinBBC]

Looks Excellent!:1st:

 

[BlackRat]

Now go thru there like we talked about, clean it with hot soapy water 92 times (at least) and put it together.

Looks really good.

Hey Tim, I wanted to ask you again about the bearing install method. I wasn't exactly sure what I needed to do. Could you shoot me an IM or post here. I hope to get the bearings tomorrow if I can find a local parts house that sells the Clevite CP series bearings.

Thanks
Wade

 

[MYBAD79]

If the timing chain rubs the block then you need to get the Dremel tool out.... you need clearance behind the cam sprocket/chain....

They only took .005" off the deck ? To me it seems the gasket should have conformed to this .004" imperfection ... not ??? What's the max you can have in a head or deck surface ???

 

[BlackRat]

If the timing chain rubs the block then you need to get the Dremel tool out.... you need clearance behind the cam sprocket/chain....

They only took .005" off the deck ? To me it seems the gasket should have conformed to this .004" imperfection ... not ??? What's the max you can have in a head or deck surface ???

The machine shop did say that grinding for clearence was an option but recommended I get the timing chain like this instead. The rear is essentially a roller bearing.

.005 is what I understood them to say. the cylinder you see is the one with the sleeve in it. There were dips all the way around it from .001 to .004 where the bozo who installed the sleeve used a grinder or hand file to shave down the sleeve with the deck. The biggest issue was that he essentially made a channel from the bolt hole in the middle of #3 and #5 directly into the #3 cylinder. On the first build part of the leak was my fault as I used high temp black RTV instead of thread sealer.


Wade

 

[TimAT]

Take a flat file and break the corners of the main caps and the saddles in the block. Just touch them enough to take the sharp edge off at the point where they meet. Right where the cap and block come together. Same for the rods. The idea is that they don't pinch the bearings at the parting line. This picture is a LS block, but that should give you the idea.

I also posted the rear main seal install directions- find that too.

Tim

 

[Luster]

Very nice! :wink::wink::wink:

 

[SmokeyVette]

So, you gonna paint this one purple too?prrtt:

 

[Twin_Turbo]

Take a flat file and break the corners of the main caps and the saddles in the block. Just touch them enough to take the sharp edge off at the point where they meet. Right where the cap and block come together. Same for the rods. The idea is that they don't pinch the bearings at the parting line. This picture is a LS block, but that should give you the idea.

I also posted the rear main seal install directions- find that too.

Tim

The bearings will not pinch there. The bearings actually stick out of the block where the cap meets the block, this stick out height is what gives the bearings their crush and it's carefully ground in during manufacturing (using a tight tolerance jig). I don't see how chamfering there would help. Sure, removing a sharp edge is always a good practise but the bearing crus is factored in. The bearing thickness also tapers off at the parting area so when the bearing crushes it can come in without being too close to the journal causing a tight clearance. if you observe old bearings, the last section before the parting line is never worn because that area has the largest clearance.

The shell sticking out and crushing when you tighten the caps is also the reason why you can only use them once. If you do a mockup and check for clearances you will need to use a fresh set (same type & manuf. of course, the production tolerances are close enough that you can assume a similar result), or you'll have to measure the bore of the torqued down caps and add 2x crushed thickness to get the proper idea of crank/rod journal clearances.

I'm not saying you shoudln't do it, just saying I don't see how it's absolutely necessary.

If you are doing any grinding, improve the oil return by smoothing and rounding off the casting in the valley and profile the oil passage in the cap.

 

[big2bird]

They only took .005" off the deck ? To me it seems the gasket should have conformed to this .004" imperfection ... not ??? What's the max you can have in a head or deck surface ???

That does seem strange. I thought that .010" was a minimum cut to prevent chatter.

 

[BlackRat]

So, you gonna paint this one purple too?prrtt:

NOOOOOO!!!!!!!!! Purple was bad Jue Jue..... Going bright red this time.:thumbs: Black does not stand out and I really don't like Chevy orange.

Take a flat file and break the corners of the main caps and the saddles in the block.
Tim

Thanks Tim. That is what I thought you were saying on the phone but wanted to make sure.:thumbs:

If you are doing any grinding, improve the oil return by smoothing and rounding off the casting in the valley and profile the oil passage in the cap.

TT can you elaborate on this a little. I ground the lifter valley smooth and ensured that there were no shelves for oil to pool. I also opened up and smoothed the slots over the camso that the oil would run off on the cam and not have a place to sit. What does "profile the oil passage in the cap." mean? Thanks:thumbs:

That does seem strange. I thought that .010" was a minimum cut to prevent chatter.

Honestly I may have misunderstood and plan on calling and double checking tomorrow. The deck as a whole was square and flat it was just around the #3 hole where the dips were all the way around.

Hopefully will have the crank and pistons installed today. Had to spend the day yesterday with the wife or I would get :smash: She is only 5'3" and 115lbs but she's MEAN!!!!:amazed:

Wade

 

[Twin_Turbo]

This: (it's a small block cap but the idea is the same)

 

[BlackRat]

This: (it's a small block cap but the idea is the same)

Gotcha, thanks!!!!!