Trailing arms: Johnny Joint install - pics

MYBAD79

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Started on the Johnny Joint installation yesterday. I bought two used trailing arm assemblies from forum member Clutchdust so now I can take my time rebuilding the bearings and the arms while my '79 is still driveable :)

I started with a hole saw:

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This has to be the quickest way to remove the old bushing :lol:

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Here's the housing for the Johnny Joint fitted into the trailing arm.

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and welded in place.... not a very beautiful weld but structurally I'm not worried :amused:

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Johhny Joints: here's the info from Currie's website:

Currie's Johnny Joint® offer 30 degrees of unrestricted movement in any direction as compared to 22 degrees on a common heim joint. The bushing in the Johnny Joint® rod ends are made with a high density, "tough 88" urethane that encases the inner ball. Its a very durable material and it is impervious to weather. The special ball is heat treated steel for extra strength. and on the 2" and 2 1/2" models the ball is cross drilled for thru-bolt lubrication.
 

BBShark

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Karsten, Is the 2" width in the specs the width of the shell or the ball? Did you get the greasable bolt?
 

MYBAD79

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I removed the spindle and the bearings. Next weekend I'll start blasting parts....

The seals did not look too good:

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This is the inner seal, I'll have to have a look at the new seal to see if it's supposed to be flat or not....

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Here's the dust cap... looks crushed....

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inside of dust cap:

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Twin_Turbo

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Those weird flat seals are the original ones. The inner one has 3 "tabs" folded over to secure the 2 sides together. It's basically 2 metal rings with the rubber seal wedged in between. IMO these are a lot nicer than the aftermarket thin stamped steel with vulcanized rubber ones. The stock oens are very sturdy and do not easily deform when pressing them in.
 

MYBAD79

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Is that dust cap crushed or is it supposed to be not parallel ??
[edit] ... just saw a pic in one of the catalogs.... it's parallel ... guess I'll have to order more new parts....
 
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MYBAD79

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progress: I welded the first trailing arm. The factory stitch welds were more than cheap... more grinding and sandblasting later.... :3rd:

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MYBAD79

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Can't measure to the bushing, mine is already cut out. I can take more measurements when the second trailing arm arrives... hopefully tonight...

I measured next to the bushing and it's roughly 2 1/8" (tape measure only)

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MYBAD79

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The project was stalled for two days because it seemed like USPS lost one of these 40+lbs boxes.... fortunately the second arm arrived today :smash:

I cut the bushing out, and welded the JohnnyJoint sleeve. The first trailing arm is sandblasted....
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JohnnyJoint and stock bushing:
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JohnnyJoint and sleeve

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hole in trailing arm and JJ sleeve:

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more progress expected for this weekend :smash::smash:
 

MYBAD79

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Did you measure it before you cut it?


Yes I did.... I was going to send you a PM ....

Measured with straight piece of aluminum barstock and tape measure: it's 2" to the metal next to the bushing and just a tad over 1.5" to the bushing.

The two arms I have here are within 1/8".... the first one is 2.125", the other one pretty close to 2.000"

Bushing thickness will change that 1.688" dimension.... no way you can stake the busing within a few thou..... length of the inner sleeve is another variable....
 

MYBAD79

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Is the bushing on the stock arm 2" wide?

Yes, maybe a little over 2". No idea if that one is stock or aftermarket though....

The wheel bearings on the first TA are press fit, on this one it's slip fit.. guess I can use this spindle as my setup tool :cool:
 

MYBAD79

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Here are a few pics that show the butt ugly factory welds.... I doubt that the frame welds are any better....
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Finally blasted... I moved the parking brake bracket to the top of the arm...

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And covered in two coats of white epoxy:

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MYBAD79

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Got all the small stuff sandblasted and painted with two part epoxy - nasty stuff. The HarborFreight $100 benchtop blaster performed well.


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I was going to replace these plates but since there's nothing wrong with the old ones I decided to blast and paint. New plates are only $60 or so, it is absolutely not worth restoring the old plates but now I can proudly say my backing plates are original :p

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I'll start working on the bearings today.
 
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